Gary Lewis

Correct for all Bullnose trucks with full gauges: 80/86 F100/350,U150 EOTZ 10850-A White symbol

It says 1980-1985, but it is correct for the left-hand vent window on all Bullnose trucks: 80/86 F100/350,U150 (RH) EOTZ 1021448-A (LH) EOTZ 1021449-A

Excellent price! Right for all our trucks with full gauges: 80/86 F100/350,U150 EOTZ 9273-A White symbol on dial

I'm sorry, somehow I missed the question. I don't know how to flush the converter either. I've just refilled and gone on. As for the amount and type of fluid, a 2wd C6 takes 23.8 pints to completely refill it, so basically 12 quarts. So with your deep pan you'll need 14 quarts, but only fill to the Full line after having started it and shifted through the gears with maybe 11 quarts in it. And I'd use Dexron II, which Bill said is synthetic.

I could be way off base here, but it has been my perception that there weren't that many EEC 302's, at least not in 1984. I know this is only anecdotal, but it seems like every time I see a discussion or questions regarding converting from EEC to DS-II, it is almost always in reference to a 300/6 truck. Now the confusion I add here is that I'm not in the USA, and our emissions were different up here. I've looked at several 1984-1986 300/6 trucks here, and they were all DS-II. The 302 always seems to be a can of worms in all regards...lol. It seems like the EEC 302 showed up later in 1984, or just randomly in 1984, and the 302 went EFI sometime in mid 1985 production. Still, USA and Canada emissions differences aside, I have seen USA market 1984 302 trucks with factory DS-II. Just another layer on another onion eh Gary?... First thing I always look for to identify an EEC/feedback carb truck is the big harness coming through the firewall next to the throttle cable and engine ground strap. DS-II trucks will just have a rubber plug there. Cory - I don't have much experience with the 302's. The only ones I've been around have either been Cash's 1980, which was before the advent of EEC, or Ray's 1986 w/EFI. But the difference in Canadian and US emissions laws does play into this, so you might see fewer EEC's than we do down here. As for the cable, in '82 the computer was under the driver's seat, so the cable went under the cab and not through the firewall. I know that because the cab on Dad's truck is from an '82 and has the hole under the seat, and I remember removing the computer from there. (And, an EEC-V computer may go back there.)

This is just speculation, but it's conceivable that some factories produced trucks from '80-86 with bright grills & argent headlight doors; and that OTHER assembly lines switched in '82 to using the "new" charcoal doors with bright grills. That would fit with the book applications. Steve - That's a very good possibility. And more likely than mine. We've documented your theory on door locks and turn signals, as they appear to have consolidated the older items at a sub-set of plants. So it very probable that the phase-out date on the headlight doors varied by plant and the availability of parts, so they didn't bother to track that and record it in the catalog.

Hey Gary, wasn't the switch to EEC-IV a mid year or late year change in 1984 for the 302? My '84 302 was a factory DS-II truck, and I know there have been others that were as well. I guess my point is, his truck may already be DS-II... Good point. I assumed, and I shouldn't do that. So, the question is whether or not the distributor has a vacuum advance unit on it. If it does it is DS-II. If not, it is EEC. Or, does the ignition box have a blue grommet or a brown grommet? Blue is DS-II and any other color is some form of EEC.

I just checked the specs, and that 260H is almost the same as the XE256H that I have installed in my '84 302. Might be worth having a look at Comp Cam's XE "Extreme Energy" series. The XE250H and XE256H are really popular for lightly modded 302's. I spent quite a bit of money on my 302, and it is still only a very mild build by most people's standards. I was trying to get as much power as I could out of it (on a budget) while keeping it very streetable and smooth. I wanted a little bit of that hotrod feel, but I also didn't want thing to idle poorly and be a pig on fuel either. Of course the basics are Cam, Carb, and Exhaust. Cylinder heads are next on the list, and there are a dozen options here. A very cheap upgrade is to install a set of E7TE heads from a later 302...1987-1996. I don't think in stock form they flow any better than the existing D8 heads on the '84 302, but they would give you a good bump in compression. I recently picked up a set of E7TE heads for $50 bucks for the '85 302 I'm building. This one is going to be a budget build and it's getting mostly junkyard upgrades;). Removing the emissions equipment is a fairly complex undertaking on that engine as the computer runs everything from what I remember, from timing on the ignition to air/fuel ratio on the carb to the EGR. And if you remove much of any thing the computer gets its knickers in a twist and locks the timing and you get poor power and economy. And even if you could remove the EGR w/o the computer knowing you'd then have a timing problem as the computer assumes EGR and advances the timing significantly to accommodate the slow flame travel time with exhaust gas in the mix. So if you remove the exhaust gas you'll have a pinging situation. So it is an all-or-nothing proposition. You'd have to replace the distributor and ignition system, meaning convert to DS-II. But many of the distributors still have an advance curve expecting EGR, so you'd need to find the right one there. Not that it can't be done, as lots of people have done it. But you just need to thing through the whole scenario and not start removing things without a comprehensive plan. And while we cannot advocate it due to the legal ramifications, if you decide to do it we can help with the planning. As for manuals, I use Ford, Ford, and then Ford. I have a Chilton or two and several Haynes, but highly prefer the Ford ones.

Welcome! Good story. I'm really fond of keep-it-in-the-family stories. Where are you located? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I can add you if you'd like. But just your city or approximate location.

Well done, Vic. Yes, that's not a bad price.

I'm testing a better filtration system for my washer... I bought a roll of white landscape fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CERIZE and stapled it into the shape of my vat. Then I dropped it in right after the solvent was replaced, so it's perfectly clean outside, and used magnets to hold the fabric up on the walls of the vat. Now, there's ~300x as much surface area of "filter" between the dirty parts & the pump, and it's a much-finer filter, and it's disposable. When it gets grimy, I'll lift it out (slowly), drop in another (there's plenty on the roll), let the old one drip back into the vat for a day or 3, and then burn it. And it's for a manual transmission. The E4OD is a variant/improvement/modernization of the C6, and Ford sometimes uses the old name to refer to the revised part. Sometimes 4R100s are referred to as E4ODs.My cleaner has 3 levels of filtration: Coarse screenFine screenReplaceable filter elementThe replaceable filter is one of the cartride-style units typically used for water filters. I've experimented with different filters and now found one that works whereas all the others plugged pretty quickly. The one that works is a 50 micron unit instead of the 5, 10, or 20 microns I've tried. But, it was the fine screen filter that plugged, not the replaceable one. And it is easily pulled and rinsed, so that didn't take any time to solve. But your plan should work nicely for your washer! As for the engine plate, yes the one on the left is for a manual tranny. As shown below, the automatic tranny used D1AZ 7007-A, and that was for 351M, 400's, and 460's. And, oddly enough, I'd missed that the catalog says that part number may be marked either "D1AE 6A372-AA" or "E7TE-EA". So, I've learned two things from that. One, they apparently gave a new engineering/ID # to an old part number. Two, both the catalog and some vendors used shorthand for engineering/ID #'s. In this case the plate on the right is marked "E7TE 6A373-EA". But the catalog omits the "6A373" part of that. And the plate on the left is marked "D1TE-A" and omits the "6A372". And, the screen grab below shows that there's a place for an E4OD in the catalog, but they didn't put a "1" in that column to show that the plate is used for that tranny. But, it obviously was.

Good luck! Hope it works out for you. Let us know how it goes.

I think you could make money, big time, by taking a big truck w/a large trailer to the PNW and loading up 3 or 4 Bullnose trucks and taking them to the Northeast for sale.

Got quite a bit done today, but I also dodged a cannon ball. You may remember a discussion about me finding two flexplates and not knowing from whence they came. And, that I counted teeth and was sure that they were 180-tooth flexplates, which means they are either for a 335 or 385-series engine. But, since a 385's flexplate won't bolt on a 335 crank and these bolted on they must be for a 335. Right? Well, today I got to thinking more about it and realized I've only had three 335 engines, and only one of those had a flexplate. Further, that flexplate had to have been on Rusty when I sold him. So, what do I have bolted onto Dad's engine? I pulled it off and counted - 164 teeth. A Windsor! Given that, I turned to our handy dandy page on flywheels (Engines/Flywheels) and found the part number: D1AZ 6375-A. A quick search turned up several hits, but the cheapest was Rock Auto, again. So, it is on order for ~$28 + $10 shipping, and is supposed to be here on April 1st. (I wonder if that's a joke?) In addition, I pulled Huck's 460 off the engine stand and got the engine plate off the back. And I was reminded of something I need to say every time I think of it: When you are designing a shop crane and an engine stand make SURE that the legs will play nicely with each other. I didn't, and am reminded of that each and every time I try to pick and engine off the stand. The legs hit each other and won't allow the engine stand to "nest" between the shop crane's legs. Anyway, I got the engine plate off and put it in the parts washer, gunk and all. In fact, there was so much gunk that it clogged the 2nd-stage filter in the parts washer. But with the filter cleaned the hot Simple Green did its thing and the plate came out oil-free. Then, realizing that if I had the parts media blasted today I could powder coat tomorrow and then install the sway bar and tie rods when the parts were baking, I decided to change my plans and blast today. So I took the engine plate and handful of fasteners as well as the new engine mounts to the blast cabinet. And here's what came out: And, here's the engine plate. The one on the left is from a 335 Series engine, has a part number of D7TE 7007-A and is marked D7TE-A. That's the one that came on Dad's engine. The one on the right is from Huck and is marked E7TE 6A375-EA, which is probably part number E7TE 7007-A. However, the 1994 version of the master parts catalog only shows that as being used with a C6, not an E4OD. But, it doesn't show any engine plate for an E4OD and that is an error. So, I'm betting this is the right one. In any event, it is the one I'm going to use.

You also might want to search for "window" or "vent window" in the Interchange thread. I think you need the divider bar as well as the glass and vent window.

You might want to look at this page, Interchange and on the Glass/Window tab. The change of window isn't quite what you think. But, it is doable if you bring the vent window from the '89. As for electric vs manual, the glass is the same. Just the mechanism differs.

So, does that mean that some of the bolts might be a "bear" to install? Lol! Yes, under normal circumstances some of those bolts are a bear to get to. But, fortunately, these bolts are easy to get to the way we are going to do it. All of the tranny/engine bolts will be easily accessible from above. And the torque converter nuts are a piece of cake - I have them on finger-tight right now and did it from above. So it'll be easy to do rather than a bear. And now for a look ahead at today's activities. We just got back from Janey's 2nd checkup and she passed with flying colors. But we leave the house on these mornings a bit earlier than we normally get up and around, so we are now taking a break and drinking a cup of coffee/tea. However, I've already turned the heater in the parts washer on as I plan to pull the engine plate off Huck's 460 and de-grunge it today. And, I plan to shorten four of the tranny/engine bolts. Then I'll wash all the fasteners in the parts washer as I'm washing the plate so everything is ready to media-blast and powder coat tomorrow. But, in order to powder coat those parts the tie rods and sway bar have to come out of the paint/powder booth. So I may actually install them today instead of lay them down someplace.

Probably. Buy it for "research"?

At least someone would appreciate all the work going into it.

Good idea. Done.

Good explanation. Thanks. I was confusing your Bronco and this truck.

Thanks guys. I think that's four out of four as my gut says the same thing. I'll write him a nice not and apologize for taking his time. I'm tempted to share a link to this thread so he can see how he comes across, but I guess I'd better not.

Haha...the Bluetooth joke passed right over my head until I went and looked at the pictures. But no, you couldn't use USB Gary, certainly not on something that rotates...lol. I wonder what the remote mounted reservoir for the clutch master cyl is all about. I have nothing against mods per se, but man they can certainly be a pain for the next guy when he's trying to order parts. Vehicles like this do take some patience to buy/own/service. Yes, the mod's I've done on Dad's truck worry me a bit as, so far, none of my offspring are the type that will understand what I've done. And, that's part of the impetus for the "novella", which describes what I've done but, more importantly, has links back to where I did it and all the excrutiating detail.

That's two early Bronco grilles? Am I remembering that correctly?

Very nice! 81/83 F100/350,U150 — w/integral A/C, w/o fog lamps E3TZ 10044D70-X Center-black w/mesh weave