Gary Lewis

That's because it doesn't exist in the Master Parts Catalog as far as I can tell. (I have my MPC OCR'd so I can search for things, but the OCR'ing isn't perfect so there's a remote chance it is there but I can't find it.) First, E2TB tells me that's not a part number - at least not one for our trucks. Instead a part number for our trucks would start like E2TZ. But, many ID #'s start E2TB. And most parts don't have their ID # shown in the MPC, so it isn't surprising that I can't find it. But, Numberdummy gave me several Master Cross Reference List books which let me convert ID #'s to part #'s. However, there are no 1363100's in it, regardless of prefix or suffix. It skips right over that #. Having said that, in the MPC I do find 1563100. That's a "spring - full width seat" for a regular cab truck. On the other hand, I cannot find 1563100 as an ID # in the cross reference book. And finding part number and then correlating that to an ID # isn't easy to do in that book. (I just had a thought. My new scanner does both sides of a page at the same time, and I did 54 pages yesterday in 35 seconds. So, if I were to scan the whole of the 1985 cross ref book which has 1061 pages..... My math says that would take 11.67 minutes scan time. But the OCR'ing takes several minutes per batch, meaning the # of pages you load. So, it is feasible. )

Steve - I understand. And I don't condemn anyone that uses a Chevrolet-branded term to describe a Ford. Seriously though, I know people who get really up in arms about that term. That's not me.

I was told that Ford used that style rotor button very briefly in the 80's, but I have no idea. It is the only one I've ever seen like that. As for the Factory vs "OEM" terminology, I do try to use the correct terminology whenever I can, but it is usually understood what one is talking about one way or another. I know people like Bill/NumberDummy scoff at using unofficial terminology, but I think the majority of the general public are usually OK with generic terms for things. Steve83 gave me crap one day for calling the start relay the starter solenoid....but everybody and their dog calls it the starter solenoid, even the companies that manufacture and sell them...lol, so I think it all just depends on one's own POV;). The one acronym that I do not use is OBS, and that's only because it is not really clear to me what trucks OBS refers to...lol. There are purists and then there are PURISTS. To me, calling a Flareside a Stepside says you don't know your Fords. Calling the starter relay a starter solenoid says you use colloquial terminology. I grew up calling it a solenoid, and still frequently do, but try to be correct when posting and especially when creating a web page. As for OBS, I don't use that term at all. I don't understand it and it makes no sense because it should include everything from some perspective back. But what perspective? Older than my 2015? What happens when a new body style comes out? Does the current body style get included?

This doesn't address differences, but might help:

For Jim's benefit, here's a screen grab of the hubcaps.

Nice truck!

Yes I am Gary, but I had had notifications for it turned off. I messaged the guy yesterday but still no replies. I've been playing a bit of a waiting game lately on the AC parts. I have collected a bunch of parts already. So far I have the pump and all factory mounting brackets for my 302, the 3 groove crank pulley, and assortment of dash vents that Scott sent me, and a grey weave instrument bezel from a truck with factory AC. I'm getting there, but still need the crucial equipment for both sides of the firewall. I have been in contact with two different guys locally that have factory AC trucks they will be parting out. One an '84 and the other an '86. They're being held up because of the weather. I expect once it warms up I'll start getting my hands on more parts. I'm intrigued by the dealer-installed system though. If I could get all of the required parts for it, I'd give it a go if it meant an easier (and less intrusive) installation. Perhaps he will get back with you soon. Having lots of parts helps with the installation as it opens up opportunities.

Thanks, Frank. I'm glad it is helping to inspire you. That is one of the many advantages to the forum - seeing what others are doing inspires us to get going ourselves.

Beautiful truck!

I actually got it, Randy - Brown. But it is supposed to be really NICE this weekend, so maybe you can work on the truck?

My point earlier was that I can't find any statement on the LMC site that says the TMI bracket bolts into the factory holes. And I cannot find the link on the TMI site to their brackets to see what they say.

Another for the slide locks. 80/81 F100/350,U150 "Before 3/81" (RH) EOTZ 1021852—A (LH) EOTZ 1021853-A

Looks like that is for the slide locks: 80/81 F100/350,U150 "Before 3/81" (RH) EOTZ 1021852—A (LH) EOTZ 1021853-A

Yes, Jim, it sure is! Thanks.

Siskel and Ebert only gave two thumbs up, so I'll assume that three means "perfection". Boy, is it a RELIEF to have that sorted. Now I can move on.

Bob - Thanks. I agree, and I've now drilled the hole out on the driver's side bottom and installed/tightened all the fasteners. It is now truly IN. Shaun - I can just get the palm of my hand between the t-case and the cab. So I'd say there's about an inch there. Lots more than on Dad's truck. On a slightly different topic, I had to stretch the F350's front driveshaft to get it to fit into the yokes. Turns out the boot was what was pulling it back in. So I cut the band off and that allowed it to slide in and out nicely. And the splines look very good. There were about 2" of splines sticking out with the suspension drooped, but I need to check to see that there are still splines engaged if the axle drops the other 2". And, I need to see that the splines don't bottom at full compression. If all that checks out I need to order in the u-joints and rebuild the shaft.

Thanks, David. I may have it figured out. I installed the crossmember, shown below, that has the ~2" drop and I think it'll work. But want y'all's input on two questions: 1: The clearance - is it adequate? 2: The gussets - can I use the ones that are in w/o drilling new holes? The clearance measures just over 1/2" with the suspension drooped as far as it wants to go, like on the lift. But the shocks will let it go another 2" if it wants to. However, the math says that 1/2" of movement there would allow over 3 1/2" of travel at the wheels since the pinch point is 6 1/2" from the pivot and the axle is 48" from the pivot. I think that's adequate. Youse guys? As for the gussets, the ones that go with that crossmember will bolt up with it ~1" back, meaning using the new holes, which is where it needs to be. But the front edge of each gusset is ~1/4" below the frame before tightening the bolts up. However, it will go up to the frame before reaching the torque limit of 85 ft-lb of the 10.9 12x1.75 fasteners. I think that's a better way to go than to drill two new holes on each side, which reduces the strength of the frame. Y'all? Here's the right gusset's gap before tightening it up to the frame: Here's a shot of everything in: And here are two shots of the clearance. Why two? Because the one on the left is the least clearance (11/32") and the one on the right is the most (11/16"). That's because the double-cardan joint is smaller than the output yoke of the BW1345 and I was only able to get one screw in to hold the shaft to the yoke. That puts the joint off center. So I measured the most and least clearance and averaged it to get 17/64". , meaning just over 1/2". (Truth in posting. )

Right, but... There's enough unsprung weight = inertia in a Dana 60 that I wouldn't count on the springs limiting the travel there. There will be some dynamic effects even in much less violent maneuvers than a jump. Will the axle regularly make all the way to the shocks limit? Hopefully not (if so you might want to consider limit straps to protect your shocks and shock mounts). But if the driveshaft is just barely clearing the cross member as it hangs now I'd be concerned that it wouldn't always clear. Bob - You are right that the D60 is HEAVY (I've carried the "light" end four times now) and it'll continue to move. Or, maybe more correctly, isn't going to move until the shocks get to the end of their travel. So I can't just get enough clearance for where it sits. It needs more. I put the t-case in place, which is all the lift this old man wants to attempt, and then put the double-cardan shaft in place. And, it is official that it hits. Pics below, but it looks to me like it is about 1" too high. I'm going to put the tranny jack back under and remove the crossmember & gussets. I have another crossmember that has a ~2" drop that I'll try and see if it works. Will post after a bit of testing....

He just put it on Facebook. Bullnose Obsession. Are you a member?

Yes, probably. Doesn't look like the stuff I've been around that came from the factory.

Good point. Having several spare crossmembers of at least two different styles, I might have the parts w/which to do that. And, if Ford kept the same cross-section they might fit together nicely. But, this is the same Ford that changed the spacing on the transmission mount after decades of the wider spacing working well, so.... Headed out to run some errands in a bit, and hope to play with the new scanner when I get back, but also plan to put the t-case in place and find out how much interference there is. And then, with spare crossmembers already laying on the floor it'll be easy to see what I can make of them.

Cory - Thought of you when I saw this:

You are right, the truck is moving away from the axle. And the shocks will slow the rise, but will also limit it should they reach their extents. Anyway, was just wanting to make sure I'm not missing something - again.

I might be able to cut this one and weld something in to reinforce it. Or I may decide to spend my time doing other things and spend money instead and get the "right" one. But I think the big question is how much interference there will be and, therefore, how much cutting will be required. So, I think the plan today will be to put the BW1345 in place and hold the double cardan shaft up there and find out. My thinking is that right now is almost the worst possible interference. The truck is on the lift with almost the max suspension drop. The previous test shows that the shocks will let the front axle go down another 2" or so, but I think that would only happen in a situation where the axle is dropping rapidly, like in a jump. Otherwise the springs should stop the travel where it is. Right, guys?