Gary Lewis

Yes, someone has. Or is. Me. In Big Blue. And, Bill/85lebaront2 has done it to Darth. If you are a glutton for punishment you can read all about it, and LOT'S more, in Big Blue's Transformation, which is now to 78 pages and growing steadily. Or, I can give you the info in a nut shell and you can ask questions of Bill and/or me. But first, you said you bought a '97 F250, presumably with the 460. And you said it has overdrive. Is that an auto with OD? Or manual? If auto it'll be the E4OD. If manual it'll be the ZF5. However, the big question is what ECU yours has - EEC-IV or EEC-V? The IV will be bank-fire and no mass air flow sensor, and that looks to be what you have, although Bill can probably answer the question just by looking at your first pic. I ask because both he and I are using EEC-V with sequential injection and a mass air flow sensor. So our wiring will be slightly different from yours, assuming yours is EEC-IV. Anyway, Bill is running an E4OD in Darth and I'll be running a ZF5 in Big Blue. The EFI 460's have completely different intake and exhaust manifolds from the carb'd engines as the ports in the heads are different. So you'll want to swap everything into your Bullnose. Or, you can convert the '97 to Bullnose fenders and bed, but leave the interior with the later dash. It'll look like a Bull, but will take less effort.

And, our resident "finder", David, has found the 1983 Engine book from the FSM, so I'll have it in a few days and will scan the 3.8L section in and we will have a complete Engine section on the website. Thanks, David!

Amen, brother! This one from Amazon is a 3/8" so may be too big. Check the line size to see, but a 5/16" may be the right size, and I think this one is 5/16".

Actually, I take that back. That's from the 1981 FSM. That's 'cause the '81 has all three Windsor engines and the '85 doesn't.

Glad you pointed out that it is a single unit. In actuality it isn't part number E0TZ 15A245-B. Instead, it is part of that as that part number is a complete kit containing two lamps and covers: 80/84 F-U100/350 E0TZ 15A245-B Kit — (includes base and spacer)

Ok, the Windsor section from the 1985 factory service manual is now on the website. See the Windsor Instructions tab here: Documentation/Engines/Windsor.

Thanks to Steven/FoxFord83 for sharing this on Facebook. Looks like the FOG has taken over.

Ok, ladies and gentlemen, with the exception of the little 3.8L/232 CI V6, we have all of the sections for the engines that came in the Bullnose trucks: General Engine Service: Provides info that is generic to gasoline-powered engines. 3.8L/232: We have a page, replete with specifications, illustrations, and part numbers, but no FSM instructions since it isn't in any of the FSM's I have. So, if anyone has an '82 or '83 FSM and wants to cut that section out and scan it in, we'd have a complete engine section. (David - please keep your eyes open for just the Engine book from an '82 or '83 FSM set.) 300 Six: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from the 1985 FSM for the 300 Six. Windsor: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from the 1981 FSM for the 255's, 302's, and 351W's. 351M & 400: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from the 1981 FSM for the M-Block engines. 460: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from both the 1985 and 1995 FSM's for the 460's. IDI Diesel: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from the 1985 FSM for the IDI. And, I LOVE MY NEW SCANNER!!!!! It took me less than an hour to scan in and OCR 269 pages. Or, to put it another way, I'd cut a section out of my FSM, typically about 50 pages or so, stick them in the scanner, and start cutting out another section. Usually the computer would be done scanning and optically recognizing (OCR'ing) the pages before I got the next section cut out - with a sharp scalpel.

If it was mine I'd rebuild the carb myself with the instructions on here. And I'd put the filter on with Teflon tape on the threads, which is a no-no but works if you ensure there's no tape protruding into the cavity where it can get loose. Outside is fine and you can trim it off. But inside is verboten. Then I'd cut into the fuel line and put a real filter, like one of the plastic see-through ones, ahead of the fuel pump and one behind the fuel pump. Those filters catch far, FAR more than the screw-in filters, which have a screen that might catch sand but not sediment. Then, if that didn't do it I'd replace the tank(s). New tanks are about $100/ea and you'll pay almost that much for just the labor to remove and reinstall one.

Ok guys, I think I understand. Thanks.

Well, not too long ago, you did mention no snow, so far, and hoped for some, this Winter. We got ~2" this morning, and more to come they say. Enough that we canceled church for this evening.

So is this a 4wd conversion?

Jim has a really good point. You'll need a spring compressor to remove the springs and check the fit of the valves. But a spring compressor isn't very expensive. So pull a valve at a time and check for wobble. If fairly tight look at the sealing surface of the valve and the head if there are marks consider lapping them. Your books probably have instructions on how to do that because they are intended for hobbyists.

Well, we're seeing some people pay upwards of $20k for trucks like this, so right now the market dictates (imho) that is where the ceiling is...but like anything else, it is a moving target. I watch this stuff all the time, and it's kinda funny how the prices are. It is crystal clear that in order to get the big bucks for a truck, they need to be kept as original as possible. Aftermarket items that are easy to change don't seem to have much effect on price (like wheels), but when the modifications get into non-factory paint jobs and other items, the prices drop fast. Tasteful and functional modifications are worth big bucks, but to a limited market. Anybody can buy an all original truck just because he wants a classic and he can afford it. A nice little 1980 F100 popped up for sale locally this week, and the damn thing is purple!! PURPLE! Funny, if it was red, or blue, or black, it would instantly double in price. Yes, it is the survivors that are bringing the money. You can see that in the price that Big Blackie brought vs what these beasts are bringing in. BB was quite the truck and would have been my pick for use.

Lots of good stuff there, but a long way from me.

I thought that was the only way to order a dually 4x4, no? Oh! I missed that. Yes, I think you are right.

That is a beast! Another C6/4.10/460 combo though, so MPG shouldn't be mentioned in the same sentence - especially with the DRW's. Dunno about the cab & chassis. Why do you say that? The rear fenders?

Nice truck! And it already has the D60 I just installed in Big Blue. But I'm not a big fan of the C6 behind the 460 due to the lack of overdrive. And that C5 code on the certification label says it has 4.10 gears. So where Big Blue with its T19 and 3.55's used to get 11 MPG if you babied it, this thing is gonna be about 9 MPG I'd guess. That's 'cause at 65 MPH it would be turning 3,000 RPM. However, if you put a ZF5 in it you are looking at 2,100 RPM at 65. Now you should be able to get maybe 12 MPG, which is a 33% improvement. And you could tow anything.

I like this one! I like the OD and the turbo. And if it truly gets ~20 MPG, which is very possible, then it gets as good as Blue.

That is big money alright. Hope you are watching this one. Let us what it goes for?

Bill - You've done a lot of work to take that rat's nest to an organized harness. But do you plan to use any convolute or braid?

I like your plan. And if you've already found head gasket leaks, you are on the right path. Speaking of path, I hope to scan the factory shop manual's section on the 302 tomorrow and get it up on the website. I'd trust that more than the other books for things like torque specs. But the other books assume you know less than the FSM does, so that's good. As for the heads, it is a crap shoot regarding whether to have them gone through or just install them. I've always gone the safe route, meaning had them gone through. But that is expensive and you don't know that there are problems with the heads. I don't really know what to tell you. If you put them on you may then discover a valve is burned. But maybe not. However, it is lots easier to have the work done now than after you've installed the engine.

I think you nailed it once I found the plug. It was just an extension from the main harness to the clock. So the next issue to over come was the 81/82 plug will not fit the 83-86 clock. I was looking for a way to keep the plug and use the pig tail from the clock but after pulling the pins from the plug to see if they would "plug in to" something I had on hand I cut the pins and used water proof butt connectors. Wired and bolted in place I went to see if it worked and .......... NOTHING! Then I remembered the spark show when trying to remove the pins from the plug. Replaced a 15 amp fuse and we have numbers. With the clock working, the dome light now working I vacuumed the floor and if it stays warm I may even wash it. Thanks guys for the help and hand holding, don't think I could have done it with out you. Dave ---- Yippee! Well done guys! As for staying warm, we are at 38 and headed south, with 4 - 6" of white stuff to come down tomorrow.

Yep, the bushings are different. Our page (Documentation/Exterior/Beds, Tailgates, & Components) shows that the base part number is 430B22, and you can see that they are different between Bulls and Bricks. You might Google that part number.

Or someone who powder coats a transfer case?