Gary Lewis

Interesting. What browser are you using? I've done some playing with it and have revised the wording, so would you check it out and see what you think? Does that approach change your experience? Does the pointer still need to be pointed at the members?

How 'bout giving us a video of it idling? If you don't know how let me know and I can provide instructions. As for figuring out if you have a cam that "bigger" than stock, that's not easy. If you don't have any documentation then the only way I know of to do it is to measure the lift with a dial indicator at the valve while noting the open & close times using a degree wheel on the crankshaft. I've done it, and it is tedious. Having said all that, if the air/fuel mix is too lean you can get an unsteady idle where the engine almost dies and then recovers, almost dies and then recovers, time after time. Also, it is possible to have a similar problem if the choke is on too far and the vacuum pull-off pulls it too far off. So make sure the choke if fully off before you start adjusting the idle air/fuel mix. If you have to, loosen the three screws and dial the choke back so it is fully open.

Oh, why not? I think you should I detailed my tcase and then painted it with the Eastwood cast aluminum paint and then clearcoated it. Can't say if it will last too long under there but if/when it comes out again, it's getting coated. Scott - You may be correct that it needs to be coated..... As said, I put one half of the t-case in the dishwasher and the other half in the parts washer and prepared to let them get CLEAN. However, about that time Janey invited me to go to Owasso and, while there, get lunch at the new burger place. How can you refuse an offer to go on a date with your best girl? So I checked that everything was fine and we headed out. When we got home about 2 1/2 hours later I pulled both halves out of the washers and discovered that neither approach had accomplished much. Both still had caked on crusty stuff in the corners, and there are LOTS of those, and were tarnished more than I wanted to accept. And that's after many hours of fussing with them in the parts washer with brushes, shifting the way the Simple Green was flowing, etc. Plus, I'd used brake cleaner - to no avail. So, I protected the bearing, seal, and gasket surfaces and put them in the blast cabinet. And after 1/2 hour on each they came out looking like new castings. But, it is obvious that they are very porous and will stain in a heart beat, and then they'll look just like they did before. So, I believe they need to be PC'd or painted to seal them. (I know that the t-case won't work any better one way or the other, but it is what I want to do, and this is a hobby. ) Paint would be easier. I could use Eastwood's Detail Gray and it would match the tranny. But powder would be more durable. So I'm thinking through which approach I want to take.

I invited him and gave him a link to this thread.

Well, I decided to take a two-pronged approach. The first was to put the rear half, which was the dirtiest, back in the parts washer and add a gallon of Krud Kutter House & Siding liquid to the Simple Green. That stuff is specifically made for things like aluminum, so we shall see. The other prong was to put the front half in the "dish washer" that is in the shop and put it on Pots & Pans. What do you think?

Sorry. Calibration parts list No. 492. Oh, ok. Got it. Good luck on finding the parts.

It won't contaminate the media any more than rust does. The stuff that's on the case is hard. It isn't goo, but almost brittle. Simple Green won't soften it, and so far brake cleaner hasn't. And I wouldn't boil the case halves after blasting, but blow them out with air and wash them with brake cleaner. However, I'm not saying I will blast them. My first move will be to try brake cleaner and a brush to see what I can get off. I'm not expecting the t-case to be shiny, but I do want it to be clean. I want it to be obvious that it was rebuilt. It is just the way I am.

"492"? Not sure I understand. But, I do hope one of those outfits has the part. Let us know, please.

Not at all. Wouldn't be so bad if my spare tire wasn't two sizes too small (33" vs 35"). I need to get a full-size spare. Yep, that's a good catch. But changing 35" tires must be FUN. My 33's are quite heavy, so I can only imagine.

Here it is on its way north, posted in Bullnose ford truck group ( 80 to 86 F series ). You can see that Cory and I both liked it.

Yep. Did you try it? Did it work? Does it make sense?

Turns out you can search the map page for people. I've added this text to the page: Does that make sense?

That's going to be a game changer! You are really going to love that. Cool!

Ron - Yes, I've gotten on it in Sport mode. With my wife, son, DiL, and granddaughter in it. Did it just to show my son. He was impressed. And, I routinely use Sport Mode when merging onto 169 North from 71st South in Tulsa. Two lanes merge into one before you get onto 169, and then that lane exits pretty quickly. So you frequently have to worry about someone beside you thinking they are going to be the one to have "the lane". In Sport Mode there's been no issue. And, don't miss that I have the Max Tow package, so I have 3.55 gears. Not the 3.23's most trucks get. I had a loaner one time that had the 3.23's and it took me a while to work out why it wasn't as quick.

Saw this on FB. Note the rear axle on the Henry J. And those rear tires might not be stock. Also note what's pulling the trailer.

I hadn't noticed the similarities, and I've had mine parked side by side several times. But I see what you are saying. As far as liking the new trucks, I really like my 2015. And the EcoBoost engine is a serious winner.

I have to disagree, two of the four mounting points for the bench seats in both my F150 and my F350 wiggled loose from the sheet metal. All they are is square nuts spot welded to the sheet metal. I don't trust the factory holes with my life. There are definitely MUCH stronger options for mounting the seats in these trucks, and I will definitely be heading down that road when the time comes. Sounds like it would be a good idea to do a how to thread on reinforcing the seat mounts. The holes on both of my trucks are reinforced. I'll take some pics and post them tomorrow. But I've not had any problems with them pulling loose.

Ok, got the bearings and seals out. The biggest problem was the needle bearing, and I had to make a spacer to pull the bearing into. Here's the bearing coming out, with the heat gun expanding the aluminum, which was necessary to get it out: And here's the bearing out: That took a lot more time than expected, but then I turned to cleaning the case halves. The hot Simple Green got a lot of the yuk off, but I'm not pleased with the results. Tomorrow I'll do some more cleaning, including with brake cleaner, but I'm tempted to put the halves together, plug the holes, and put them in the blast cabinet. That will clean them up much more quickly. No, I'm not going to powder coat them. I'm just wanting to get them clean, and the yuk is well stuck.

I'm sure glad we worked through this. Otherwise you might have had the wrong valve.

Teach them to fish vs giving them a fish. As for learning, I took the Clifton Strengths Finder test recently and learned that I like to learn.

Looks like Lil'Red to me.

That calibration # will be a big help if you are keeping it stock. With it you now know all of the details about the truck that will be required over the years. A few years ago Numberdummy told me that he just will NOT look up info like that for people because it is so hard to do. So many questions that have to be asked. But with that calibration code you are home free. Having said that, with the application list it isn't impossible. But it is lots easier for the owner to do it than for me 'cause I have to ask all sorts of questions that they already know.

Have you tried going to this page (Documentation/Calibration Info & Part #'s) and walking through the steps? If you have the calibration code it should be easy. But if not start with the Application To Parts List tab. That should give one or more calibration parts lists, then you go to that tab and find your list - which should have the O2 sensor. If that doesn't work, please let me know.

Well, I think the MPC is wrong. In Calibration Parts Lists #117 - 122 plus 150 & 151 it says thermactor control valve w/PN of E1TZ 9F491-A has an ID # of E1TE 9F491-AA and is Motorcraft # CX-641 In Calibration Parts List #205 it says thermactor control valve PN E3TZ 9F491-A has an ID # of E1TE 9F491-AA and is Motorcraft # CX-899 ID # E1TE 9F491-AA can't be both part numbers, nor can it have two different Motorcraft #'s. So I checked the April 1985 cross reference book. It says that: ID# E1TE 9F491-AA has part number E1TZ 9F491-A PN E3TZ 9F491-A is ID# E47E 9F491-BA So the MPC was wrong. Now both my personal MPC and the Calibration Parts List doc that is embedded on here (Documentation/Calibration Info & Part #'s) show the following:

Having scanned the previous comments I don't think we've established enough about your truck to answer that question. That's because we don't know if it has a computer managing the carb and timing. It probably came with one, but we don't know if it is still in command. If so then you can't just eliminate some things w/o causing the computer to get its knickers in a twist and lock the ignition timing to initial advance. And when that happens your MPG and power go away. So how 'bout showing us several pics of the under hood area? Specifically we need to see shots of the carb showing whatever electrical connections there are to it. And the ignition module, which may be on the driver's fender liner. And the distributor.