Gary Lewis

Not too sure when I'll pull the t-case apart for the rebuild. But as I think about the whole process I'm thinking this might ought to be the overall order. Input from y'all is appreciated. Finish The Driveline: This would include installing the transmission, rebuilding & installing the t-case, and rebuilding & installing the driveshafts. Brakes: Install the firewall brace, pedals, clutch switch, hydroboost, and master, and bleed the brakes. Steering: Install the Saginaw P/S pump and plumb the cooler and hydroboost in. But don't install the drive belt for break-in. Carb'd Engine: Set the engine up to run with a carb for cam break-in, including re-installing the midship tank & fuel pump, add the fuel lines, carb, etc. Install the 3G alternator and wire it up to the original starter solenoid and connect the fuselinks, which puts the '85 electrical system back in play, inc the DS-II ignition, distributor, etc. Install the headers and old exhaust system just for break-in as the glass packs have to go. Install the A/C system, but no belt. Cooling System: Install the radiator support, radiator, heater hoses, radiator hoses, bypass hose, and thermostat. Fill system. Break-in: Start and run the engine on the carb for at least 20 minutes to break in the cam. EEC: Pull the carb & adapter, install the EFI stuff, and do the EEC-V wiring. The Rest: Do the interior, inc Dynamat or the like, painting floor, tranny cover, etc. Grille, front bumper, winch, etc.

Doni - I think I was wrong. As said on the other thread, it looks to me like you may have a truck built for California's emission standards and in 1981 that did include a computer and a feedback carb. So your carb may be original to the truck.

Sorry, Jim. I pray that your surgery goes well and they resolve the problem. And that your trip goes well also.

Doni - With the discovery explained above, I think you may well have the right carburetor. Not that you want to keep it, but that may be the one that came on that truck. If it was me I'd want a carb off an earlier truck that didn't have the emissions controls. One of our members, 1986F150Six, has just such a carb on his truck, and it is a Carter YF 4901 S carburetor from a 1970 F350 with 300 engine. It works very well on his truck, which has been proven by the excellent MPG he gets.

Frank - His intro thread says it is a 1981, which is why I'm confused as I didn't think any 81's came with a computer. However, I was wrong! The 4.9L for California did have the computer, as shown below, which is a page from the 1981 EVTM here: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1981 EVTM/Feedback Carb Control. So I'd bet that his is a CA-spec and someone has neutered the computer and installed the DS-II module. I asked to see the certification label thinking that might tell, but the best bet would be to find the calibration code on a label on the engine, as explained here.

Scott - The oil pumps are supposedly the same or very similar 'tween the 1345 and the 1356, so the same mod is supposed to work. I guess I'll find out. Shaun - The part numbers are different because the parts lists differ between applications. Go to the Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Case page and then the Applications tab. Get your application's parts list # and then go to the 1345 tab and find the parts list and compare that to another list. I've not done that, but I'm guessing that the main difference is what Jim said - output yokes.

Understood. And the 1345 has the lowest gear ratio: Transfer Case Low Range Gear Ratio NP205 1.96 NP208 2.61 BW1345 2.74 BW1356 2.69

Gotcha, I was curious because I was hoping I wouldn't have to go down the 1356 road. Finding one meant for an F350 wasn't going to be easy or cheap according to Car-Part. The 1345 takes the same front output yoke as the 1356, according to what I was told. And it takes the Bullnose style linkage. So should be easier to do. We shall see.

Depends on how you count. Dad's, plus Big Blue, plus Blue = 3. But there's the '50 Chevy that is supposed to go back to Janey's cousin. And there's the attic that has parts from and for MANY trucks. But, to your point, you don't have other trucks to work on, so should be able to put your time to the engine. Jim - Don't forget the hospital stay. You've had quite the setback. it happens.

Ok, thanks. I'll log that info for replacement time.

Thanks, Jim. Did it have disc or drum rear brakes?

Jeff - That is really cool! Thanks!

As to whether a SuperDuty (which means '99 and later F-250 / F-350) master would work in this application, or if not, exactly why not, I don't know. I don't want to take the time to reseach all of the options, so I'm asking people who have done it what they recommend. And that's the Astro booster with a Camaro master or a SuperDuty booster with a D-150 master. I don't know that what I end up with will be the best. But I'm pretty confident that it will be good. To the extent that I have thought about it, it makes sense that a master cylinder intended for an older half ton truck which has pretty much the same brakes as my Bronco ('70s vintage front disks and rear drums that fit inside of 15" rims) would be a better choice than a master that's intended for a 1 ton truck with four wheel disks that require 17" rims (or maybe even 18"?) to clear. Not saying that I know the SuperDuty master wouldn't work, But I wouldn't expect it to be as good a fit as one from an older half ton. For Big Blue I think it makes sense for a truck that has F-350 brakes to use an F-Superduty master (no such thing as an F-450 until '99 when Superduty became SuperDuty and applied down to the F-250HD). Not a big difference (if any) in the brakes so I would expect that the same master would be fine. And for what it's worth, the front brakes on my Bronco are off a Chevy truck. So going with the Dodge master cylinder just pulls the rest of the Big Three in! I wasn't trying to suggest you are doing the wrong thing. I'm just trying to learn how it all works. As for the F450, I thought Jim told me the parts came off of a '95 F450. I do need to find out exactly what I have so it can be replaced at some point in time. But it sure looks BIG! Hope the brakes are dramatically better than what they were, but I really ought to be able to lock them up. Not sure that means stopping, but ......

I'm going to run the 1345, but have the correct output flange so I can use the double-cardan shaft that came with the 1356. (The 1356 got a different flange to take a single-cardan shaft and is going in Dad's truck. ) I have a kit so I can rebuild the 1345, add the oil pump mod, and install the new flange. And paint it.

Alex - Make sure you put plenty of filtration on the fuel. Assuming you have a mechanical pump, I've run a clear plastic filter ahead of the pump and one after. The one ahead of the pump tends to need replacing much more often than the other.

Yep, Bill. And I may win the race to have the new MAF/SEFI 460 up an running. Dane - I thought those brackets would make it look a bit bigger. They aren't heavy as they are aluminum, but they look substantial. Jim - It feels like it might actually happen this year. That I might actually get to drive it to the show in Sept.

Now that's a TRUCK!

Welcome, Randal! Glad you joined. That's a chunk of truck. Hope you'll create a thread in the main section to show us lots of pics as well as to chart your progress. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town.

Patrick - Welcome! Would you like to be on our map? (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu.) I can add you with your permission. We have a number of purists on here, and that's a noble cause. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section to document your progress. Is that an '80 or '81? (The turn signals may be amber, which would be an '81, but it is hard to tell.)

Forums, and this one especially, don't read the metadata stored in the picture so don't know up from down. Your phone does. So what you see on the phone before posting has no relation to what will be posted. The best way to fix it is to open the pic in an editing app, which usually reorients the pic properly. Then save it and post the saved pic. That USUALLY works, but not always.

Glad you are getting another carb. What a pain! As for scopes, I have a scope that I recently used on a Honda to determine that the computer was sending a signal to the coil-on-plug system for all cylinders, although #2 doesn't always run. And I have multimeters, but I've always wanted a Fluke. Yesterday Brandon/Bruno2 (from BA) told me about a new Fluke 233 that's for sale at a good price. I'm thinking..... Anyway, it was a nice weekend. But Caroline Brown just mentioned snow in the middle of this coming week.

I'm on a Bronco-specific bulletin board that has quite a bit of traffic. Looking through their recommendations two hydroboost applications come up most often: Astro mini vans and SuperDuty diesels. I decided on the SuperDuty not because it's a Ford, but because they are newer and there are tons of them around. So finding parts for them in 20 years should be easier than finding parts for an early '90s Astro. I'm not sure entirely why the D-150 master is recommended with the SuperDuty booster. One thing is that it's aluminum so it doesn't rust and it has a plastic reservoir so you can see the fluid level without opening it. Another I imagine is that it's sized appropriately for Broncos with front disks / rear drums (which is where they seem to be used). I'm thinking that if I were to use a SuperDuty master the fact that it's sized for SuperDuty brakes wouldn't be a good thing on my little Bronco brakes. Bolt spacing I think will not be correct. I think I'm going to have to fabricate a plate to go between the booster and master, but that shouldn't be too hard (I have access to a mill at work). And then I'll need to get/make the right length push-rod to go between them, again pretty simple fab work. I'll have to figure out fittings as well. And yes, it can be a pain. But D-150s were pretty common too, so it shouldn't be too hard (I know, famous last words!). Any Ford truck master later than maybe '87 will be aluminum with a plastic reservoir. And the '95 F450 master I'm using bolts right up to the '95 hydroboost unit. I'm curious what the Dodge master's piston sizes are. I'm wondering how all of this works.

Today I got the flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, & pressure plate installed. And then I installed the alternator bracket, the A/C and P/S bracket, belt tensioner, and the crank pulley. That seems to make the engine look a bit bigger.

On your phone when you took them, or on your phone when you look at the post?

Doni - That is very curious. Weird even. As said, I don't think Ford put computers on the 1981 trucks, but you have one. How 'bout moving the black wire and getting me a good pic of the part number on that thing? I can probably tell you from whence it came. As for the heat sink, that might be several things. One is somebody's home grown battery isolator. I made one similar to that for my '72 F250, and it allowed the alternator to charge two batteries at the same time. Maybe get a better pic of it? And below the MCU is the ignition module. Specifically a DuraSpark-II unit as I can see the blue grommet that the wires are coming out of. And, if you have a DS-II ignition you don't have an MCU/computer.