Gary Lewis

Doni - You are on the map, although I kinda doubt you live in Trafalgar Square where it put you. And that would make sense that you don't have the FORD letters if the hood is that rusted out. How 'bout posting a pic of the certification label that may be on the driver's door jamb? I'm curious about the information on it. Speaking of the driver's door, is yours left-hand drive? That's gotta be fun over there.

Doni - If you are getting 14 MPG ..... oh wait. Imperial gallons. Oops. I was going to say that's pretty good for that truck/camper/caravan. Maybe not. As for instructions, the youtubes can be very helpful, but you may not have found our documentation on that carb: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Carter YFA 1Bbl. And on that page there are two set of instructions available via the Instructions tab: The section from Ford's 1981 factory service manual and one from Walker. The first thing you asked about is a dash pot, which is used to slow the throttle's closing speed to prevent stalls. The second thing is a feed back solenoid connection. You can see both of those things in the Walker instructions, and the dash pot in the Ford instructions. Which brings up the question of why the Ford instructions don't have the feedback solenoid. And I believe that is because that is not the right carburetor for your truck. I'm not 100% sure, but I'm 99% sure that Ford didn't use feedback carbs on the 1981 trucks. Does that carb have a tag on it? If so I can probably track down what it is from. But if it is like I suspect, there's no place to connect that wire as you shouldn't have a computer, which is what controlled the feedback carbs.

Yes, Jim, I turned a problem into a huge win. I'm stoked. Angelo - Your father's truck does look pretty good. But your picture-posting abilities are questionable. Bob - Ford considered the Bronco a truck as they included it in all the "light truck" literature, and that's good enough for me. And the brakes are looking good. But why go to a Dodge master cylinder? Why not a Ford? (I'm seeking to learn, not criticize.) Does the Dodge have the right bolt spacing? Is it the piston size? And, what size fittings does it take? I ask because that can be a pain.

Hello, Doni! Welcome to the forum. Cool truck! You say it's an '81, and it has the right grille for that, but the hood should have FORD across it. Interesting. So we don't have to ask each time, how 'bout creating a signature with details about your truck as well as your name - we like to use names as it makes it more personal. (See the Signature tab on the Bullnose Forum/FAQ's page in the menu for instructions.) What part of the UK are you in? I used to live near London and worked in the West End, so know it a bit. In fact, I'm coming back this autumn to visit. Anyway, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd love to put you on it if I had a city/village. As for your questions, you can ask them in this thread, but it is best if you start a new thread in the main section, maybe one to track the progress on your truck. Speaking of that, is it called a "caravan"?

Haven't done anything on my truck yet today, but did something for our trucks. Ordered a scanner. Heretofore I've used an all-in-one printer/scanner combo. And they work, for a while. Yesterday I tried to scan something with the HP unit that was a hand-me-down from Janey and it started and then quit. That got me to thinking about my/our needs in the shop. Basically I do not print. Maybe once a month at the most, and more likely once a year, and I can do that printing wirelessly to Janey's printer in the house. But I do scan sections of the FSM frequently. And the scanners associated with the printers I've had have been single-sided scanners. So when I've scanned in a 60 page document by scanning 30 pages on one side and 30 pages on the other I then have to sort the pages, and that takes far longer than just doing the scans so it makes me reluctant to scan. Today I Googled "document scanner reviews" and discovered that for not too much more than a printer I can have a dedicated scanner that scans on both sides of the page at the same time! No more merging large documents. I say all of that to say "Stand by for more FSM sections on the website!" It'll be in on Tuesday.

Thanks, Dane. It'll look a bit bigger when I put the front dress on. Those brackets stick out a mile on either side.

That's a really nice truck. Even with the 302 and CA emissions I'd love to have it. The 302/AOD combo would make it economical to drive. But, I'm reminded of OJ when I see it.

So 6 and then top up from there might be the best answer?

I'm glad you commented. I couldn't figure out why I needed to grimace. Now I understand.

Great! Keep us updated. As for getting the truck out, you are so far north I'm surprised you can get it out as early as Easter.

Looks good! I'll bet that thing's HEAVY!

Hospital!!! Oh no! But, you are out so they must think they have you on the path to recovery. Prayers answered, but I'll keep praying, Jim.

Yes, you are right in all cases. We were thinking of different locations and different methods. I like the in-the-dash location for several reasons: It is more secure since it can't be seen It is also more secure since there are no wiring changes under the hood to reverse or cut out There's no relay that needs to be parked under the hood, looking messy if by itself or being more complex if you put it in a PDB But either approach works.

Not sure I follow. But taking 87 to ground and splicing into the tach wire and taking that to 30 is what I'm thinking. That way with the relay quiescent everything works as normal, but with the relay set the tach wire goes to ground and the engine cannot run.

Trust me, I AM AS WELL!!!!

They were light, so stuffing a 265 or 283 under the hood was common. But I've seen them with lots bigger engines than that.

The EVTM holds lots of clues on the connectors. This page is toward the end of the Charge & Power Distribution section that the previous one came out of:

Thanks! Yes, it is a great feeling, for sure. Now I can install the flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch & pressure plate, transmission, etc. All that stuff is to-hand and ready to go.

Or you could use the wiring diagram from our own page: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion. See the Ammeter & Voltmeter tab.

Speakers working into a huge volume don't sound good. And if the air on the back side of a speaker can leak to the front side the waves cancel to some extent, although they are frequently out of phase enough due to the delay that they muddle the sound. So you should have clearer sound now.

I'm glad someone like that bought it.

I've been thinking that you want the relay to be "set", meaning pulled in, all the time when the security system is armed. Assuming that the "-500 ma" means it will sink up to 500 ma then you tie that to 85 as you said. And in this scenario the power to 86 needs to be hot at all times so the security system can set the relay. The down side of doing it this way is that the relay is pulling 150 - 200 ma all the time the security system is set. So over time the battery is going to be pulled down. Given that, perhaps your suggestion of having power to the relay in Start & Run is better. If the thief tries uses the ignition switch or if they just run a jumper to the hot side of the coil the relay will set and ground the ignition. But the wire going to the coil's tach post should go to 87, and 30 should go to ground. That way when the relay is set the coil is grounded, and since that's what the ignition module does the module can't cause the ignition to spark. However, I'd use the tach wire in the cab rather than put the wiring under the hood. That way there's no way they can hot-wire the truck unless then get into the cab, find the relay, and disable it. And I'd do the wiring from above with the dash pad off.

Yes, that is with an empty torque converter. I confirmed that in General Automatic Transmission section of the FSM on Page 17-01-39, as well as in the C6 rebuild procedures on Page 17-10-27. Unfortunately no value is given for the torque converter or a refill w/o the torque converter.

Well, now you know everything is up to snuff.

Yep. Instead I'll plug it. Brandon/Bruno gave me several blue aluminum fittings, and I have one picked out just for that hole.