Gary Lewis

Well done! As Jim says, progress is good!

Those seats are interesting! It cost me $1000 to have the Bronco captains chairs recovered (please don't mention that I did that twice), and then there was the hassle of mounting them. This isn't that much more expensive and they are supposedly bolt-in. Having said that, they don't say they are bolt-in. Or at least I don't find that they say that. Am I missing it? On the door panels, they'd go nicely with the seats. As for TMI, that's apparently a different TMI. Tim has his hands full with the new Cleveland block, so I am sure he's not branched out.

Cory - Not your fault as I didn't mention the issue nor what I was doing until I was done. The new mount I ordered is the old/wider style, but Rock Auto has them quite cheaply so I'll probably order in the right one once I get the right crossmember. Shaun - Yipes! That's expensive. But thanks for finding it. Shame they didn't show a picture of the crossmember so we'd know it is the right one. And speaking of the right one, I think it is about time I invest in a 90's MPC. It would help immensely to know what trucks that crossmember was used in. Perhaps I could find one at a salvage locally - for less than $250. Apparently what makes this more difficult is that I have an '85 with an '88+ transmission and a '95 front axle with a RSK and SuperDuty springs. I'd been thinking that even the Bullnose crossmember should work - it did on Dad's truck. But that truck had a standard ride height, and Big Blue is much higher. Jim - Thanks. Back when you sent that crossmember there was no thought of a D60 and an RSK with SD springs. Apparently that's where the problem arose - the extra height.

I am flattered that you are using some of my ideas. This is why I like to share them with others! The heater control valve is something that I added. This is a FORD part that was originally used on 1995 - 2004 Ford Rangers with A/C. I agree with Gary in that it is a nice feature to have - especially if you live in a hot area. In the normal "resting" position, this valve allows coolant to flow into the heater core as usual to give you a source of heat to adjust the temperature in the cab. But if you choose MAX A/C on your HVAC panel, the heater control valve will effectively block the flow of hot coolant to the heater core and redirect it back into the engine. This removes an extra source of heat that the A/C will otherwise have to overcome. The result is a cooler cab when using MAX A/C. Unlike a manual shut-off valve - which simply stops the flow of coolant dead in it's tracks - the heater control valve will still allow the normal flow of coolant in either position. And unlike a manual shut-off valve, it works automatically using engine vacuum. (I felt the vacuum-controlled automatic valve was more fitting for Lucille, considering she is an upscale LARIAT truck with many other vacuum-controlled features.) To make it work, you simply install it in the heater hoses as shown in the picture below. Then, disconnect the hard vacuum hose line (from a grommet in the heater core case) from the vacuum motor that controls the HVAC functions. Both of which are located in your engine bay on the passenger's side. The heater control valve will connect to a tee that you can easily install between these two connections: Or if you would like, you can run the vacuum line to a manifold vacuum source in the summer. This will close the heater control valve any time the engine is running and keep hot coolant out of the heater core all the time. You just have to remember to unplug it again when the weather turns cooler and you want heat. The upside is the air coming in when using the VENT function will also be cooler. The downside is you will not be able to adjust the temperature no matter what position the HVAC control panel is in. In other words, the top lever that adjusts the temperature will be useless. The manual shut-off valve will have the same problem. Heater control valve (1995 – 2004 Ranger) F87Z18495AA Rick - Would it be ok to capture your words and pics to put on the Heat Shut Off and Vacuum Valve tabs on the HVAC Systems page?

Yipes! You are probably right. Do you have part numbers for that? Maybe I'd better look for one.

Those are two good questions. We won't know on the first one until I get everything together, but maybe Jim can answer the second one.

I don't know if Ford offered anything like those. They don't seem to be in the 1986 Accessories catalog, although I may have missed them. And a search of the master parts catalog didn't turn them up either, although "thingy" may not be the proper spelling.

Bill - The E4OD is loooooong. The ZF5 isn't that long. I had to drill the new holes roughly 1" further aft from the original ones. But, more on that in a bit. I did, in fact, get the crossmember and gussets as well as the rear insulator (rear support), aka transmission mount, installed: Now let's first talk about what components I used, as I tried lots of them before finding the right combo. I used: Crossmember: I forgot to cross reference the crossmember Jim sent me from the '95 SuperDuty, but the ID # on it is F4TF-LA, although the "5025" is left off. None of the others I have were close to working, but this one just required a slot cut in it, as shown below, and the bottom frame holes re-drilled. Gussets: Again I haven't cross-ref'd these to part numbers, but the ID # of the left one is E7TA 7F468-AA and the right one is E7TA 7R314-AA. They are surely the ones from the '95 SuperDuty. But they fit the upper bolts in the frame perfectly and drop down just right on the crossmember when it is in the correct position. Insulator/Mount: E7TZ 6068-C. This isn't the absolute correct one for that crossmember, as you'll see, but it fits the transmission and didn't take much to adapt the crossmember to it. Now to the crossmember. Here's a shot of how the insulator/mount hits this crossmember, showing that the right stud would go through the slot, but not the left stud. So I slotted the crossmember: At this point it all fit together but I needed to mark and drill the new holes in the bottom flange of the frame. I measured and measured and finally decided the direct approach was better. In the pic below you can see that I brought the crossmember up under the frame, and it is held in place by the nuts on the insultor/mount and aligned by the gussets, which are snugged up to the top of the frame. Then I marked the bottom of the frame through the bolt hole in the crossmember. Then I drilled the holes. As you can see below, the holes are roughly 1" aft of the original holes. However, this crossmember is slightly shorter so the left hole is inboard a bit from the original hole. But, it all fits.

Finding people would be a neat feature. I'll put it on the list.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Ford-E4TZ-9A837-A-Speed-Control-Release-Stop-Switch-1984-87-F-150-350/184086206149?epid=1023673777&hash=item2adc6496c5:g:nPQAAOSwr3hd-VG7 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-FORD-CRUISE-CONTROL-RELEASE-SWITCH-OEM/293399206358?epid=1023673777&hash=item444ff499d6:g:1woAAOSw0yVca5wr https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1984-1985-1986-1987-FORD-BRONCO-SPEED-CONTROL-RELEASE-SWITCH/372145429360?epid=1023673777&hash=item56a5989b70:g:fqMAAOSwhYdZvB7R https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-1984-1987-F-U150-350-TRUCK-STOP-SWITCH-ASSY-SPEED-CONTROL-RELEASE-NOS/401387893012?hash=item5d74953114:g:WoIAAMXQjWtRQnQP https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-FORD-F150-Bronco-Stop-Switch-Speed-Control-Release-E4TZ9A837A-SHIP-TODAY/193242889994?epid=1023673777&hash=item2cfe2c7f0a:g:n0AAAOSwaShd6TZS https://www.ebay.com/itm/84-87-F-150-250-PICK-UP-TRUCK-NOS-BRAKE-SWITCH-SPEED-CONTROL-E4TZ-9A837-A/222683262526?hash=item33d8f4ee3e:g:3wUAAOSwy0JZ57jz And... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-BOX-FORD-E4TZ-11A152-B-Clutch-Starter-Switch-84-86-F-150-350-Bronco/184132757523?hash=item2adf2ae813:g:vQQAAOSwnYVeIkpF Jonathan - I've added lines to the Forum & Website Upgrades spreadsheet to add both a page on these switches as well as one on hydroboost - when I get mine done. (We'll collaborate on that.) That's the beauty of our website. We can convert conversations on threads into web pages that pull from all the conversations as well as Ford documentation and offsite info to create a holistic result that helps everyone. (Not all forums are coupled to such a website. ) David - The bad news is that I've already ordered the speed control switch. The good news is that I got it for $20 w/free shipping, which I think matches what you fou.nd. But thanks anyway

Jim - Yes, we have the right help here! And, while the parts washer is cleaning the crossmember, I did some checking and the bracket does provide a position for both switches, as seen here. (The empty bracket is just to help you see how the switches go on.) And here's a side-by-side of the pedal up & down to show how the switches work:

How slowly can you drive, Gary? In 1st and low range, pretty slowly. The handy-dandy calculator I found says that at 650 RPM that would be 1 MPH.

Yes. And the mechanical linkage is, as you said, a challenge to find. And if you do find a set it'll need a serious rebuild as they are always badly worn given the large number of moving parts and the lack of lubrication they got. Personally, I'd go hydraulic clutch linkage. Much, much easier to find. But I'd do as you said and add the firewall brace, for sure. As for it not being original, very few people know that.

Wow! He really does have some nice trucks! I like the '97 F350 w/a turbo'd diesel and ZF5.

It was Dad's truck. I added a ZF5 and originally used a clutch release lever from the ZF5 with the original mechanical linkage. But the clutch pedal pressure was so high it was obvious something was wrong so I started looking at the release levers. That's when I discovered that the hydraulic levers had far less leverage than the mechanical levers. So I cut an NP435 lever and a ZF5 lever apart and put them back together giving the ZF5 inside end much more leverage. It worked a treat. And I still have the lever should someone need it.

Seems expensive for one bracket, but if that's what you need....

This is the '84-only cable for trucks with heaters, not A/C nor Hi-Lo Vent. 84 F-U150/350 E4TZ 18552-A

80/86 F100/350.U150 - - w/o dual rear wheels R.H, and L.H. E3TZ 9928370-B

Note what it doesn't fit - between those serial numbers.

Yup, that last one is a better deal. They fit: 82/87 F100/350.U150 T-18,19,435 E2TZ 7N280-D

Nice, but 'SPENSIVE!

Nice truck. Not a bad price.

That's a good price!

Nice, but a lot more expensive than the Spruce one.

80/81 F-U100/350 - - "Before 2/81" EOTZ 3A525-A Part of 3B676 after 2/81