Gary Lewis

Thanks! I do hope this site can be a big benefit to everyone. And I'm sure that we do have the most comprehensive information anywhere on these trucks. As for for the front clip swap, we have a thread called Converting 87-96 F trucks to Bullnoses, among others. But we don't have a page in the documentation section on it. Are you volunteering to write one?

You will probably have to do some minor wiring as it isn't likely the LMC connectors will plug into the factory connectors that come with the ones from RA. But it shouldn't be a big deal at all. And, it is possible that the LMC unit didn't use the factory holes in the door. But the ones from RA will. So they may not go back into the same holes, but the holes should already be there. The factory power window units bolt into where the factory crank units go.

I'm not sure what "LMC guts" you mean, but I think that part from Rock Auto will bolt into your door and give you a very reliable system.

That's the same outfit that Scott talked to, as described here: Source for HVAC Component Seals/Gaskets. Glad someone is doing this, and $39 is a good price for a complete kit.

Good to know Gary - there's definitely some room. Now to start figuring out some of the random vacuum hoses I've found plugged off (one underneath the carb coming from the intake confuses me). Looking at the vacuum diagrams...maybe I found it. Don't know what you found, but we have some 302 vacuum diagrams here: Documentation/Underhood/Vacuum Diagrams/302. But that may not include yours. If you know or can find the calibration code I can probably find the right diagram.

Indeed - I look forward to keeping the leaves out from here on out! Gary - do you know if the speedo cable is supposed to be 'free floating' in the engine cavity? I think that's what has been making a slapping noise when I'm at speed - the noise sounds like it's in front of the firewall and slapping the fender liner. I didn't see any obvious hooks that it should run through. Usually the speedo cable is constrained by all the wiring and brake lines around it. But I don't think there's anything it is supposed to fasten to. So it could slap other things if nothing is constraining it. You might loosely zip tie it to some wires or brake lines.

Yep. My first Bullnose did that to me. Nice crisp autumn day and I took my wife for a ride. Turned on the heat and wondered who was burning leaves. Then I realized there wasn't anyone w/in a mile. It was US! As soon as I read this - a smell I noticed earlier in the day just made sense! Maybe I crisped a few leaves after all. Yep, I'll bet you did. Doesn't take many leaves as they like to hang out where it is warm. And those resistors get WARM! From there it is a direct shot into the cab, so you smell it immediately.

Ok, I'm trying to get down to specifics. I've found several braided looms: PET: This is good to 257 F. Nylon: I can't find a temp rating on this. As for the cobra headed zip ties, are these they? If so, I haven't found the gun yet. Any suggestions? Cobra ties are one brand of low profile zip tie I have seen used. The way the head on normal zip ties sits is bulkier, it can lead to chaffing issues, the "teeth" area along the flat part is also against the wire, and a lot of times you get that sharp tail. Panduit's version looks like this and when cut the tail is not exposed. Also the smooth side of the tie rests on the wire... no chaffing. If you look up zip tie gun you can find some cheaper options in the $20-$75 that work with all kinds of zip ties. A panduit GTS zip tie gun probably runs about $150. Most of these zip ties both panduit and the reusable one (tab release) can be found at Grainger. https://www.grainger.com/category/electrical/electrical-supplies/wire-management-cable-organization/cable-ties They make quick work of a harness but speed comes at a cost. I am lucky I can buy bulk left overs here from Boeing auctions for pennies. But, I'm more old school and prefer to use waxed string tie AKA lacing tape, AKA lacing cord. It's cheaper and I enjoy it. The flat kind is what you want. You can find this unwaxed a lot of times with leather stuff. You can also get high temp stuff that has nomex in it which is usually black or white with black dashes down the middle. The preferred method is to do a clove hitch around the bundle then secure that hitch with a square knot. This is an example: https://www.amazon.com/Lacing-Cord-Nylon-Black-Width/dp/B00UYD9E6O/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Flat+waxed+lacing+cord&qid=1580765902&s=electronics&sr=1-4 On the braided loom I have been using PET it has an operating temp of 257 degrees but a melt temp of about 450 degrees. Nylon usually runs -50ish to 300 F whether it is flat or round braid, expandable or not. Scatch - Thanks for the explanation. Do the cobra-headed ties need a gun to tighten them? Or can I just do them by hand? And that link to Grainger helps as it shows so many different kinds of ties. As for the braided loom, looks like PET is the way to go then. But I'm with Jim - I think the zip ties and Tesa tape will be adequate for what I'm doing. Thanks, guys!

At $5 + 15 shipping that's a steal. Wonder what it'll go for.

Were your fingers "GSM" blue? (Whatever color that is.) Yes, the whistle is probably vacuum. If you have the factory A/C system the slider should be controlling the vacuum valve, and they usually get stiff in their old age - is that what you meant by not feeling good? I freed one up with silicone spray, but I doubt that will fix a vacuum leak.

Thanks, Dane. Yes, with a nice finish it should be able to be cleaned easily.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Yes, this is the right place. Plenty of folks with deep knowledge on these trucks, a friendly environment, and lots of documentation. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town/city. And that's a very nice looking truck. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section and tell us all about it.

I'm not taking it as criticism. But I'm glad to make you fell better. As for getting all the grit out, I blew the halves out with 100+ psi air very carefully. Then I washed them with copious quantities of brake cleaner until the brake cleaner came out/off clean. And then, after baking them in the oven at 400F for an hour, I washed them with brake cleaner again. But, before I start assembling the t-case I'll clean up some spots where powder got where a seal goes and then blast them with air again, just to be sure.

I've added a page in Documentation/Literature/Miscellaneous Literature/Master Parts Catalog, and on that page are links to 13 pages that are missing in the commercially available MPC's. You can download those pages and add them to your MPC to make it complete. Note that they are just 13 pages of an over 5000 page document, so by themselves they won't do you any good. But, if you have either the HiPo Parts or Forel Publishing version of the MPC, both of which are missing those pages, you can update your catalog. Also, even Numberdummy said he doesn't have some of these pages.

Yep, you are right. But, it took me less time to blast and PC the thing than I spent on trying to clean it. I'm happy with what I have. As said, it is my hobby, and hobbies aren't always rational. My mother collected brick. Hard to drive brick.

Yep. My first Bullnose did that to me. Nice crisp autumn day and I took my wife for a ride. Turned on the heat and wondered who was burning leaves. Then I realized there wasn't anyone w/in a mile. It was US!

I use the pages here instead of looking for it in the MPC all the time, so fully understand. I'll put the 1985 FSM's section on the 460 in soon.

Yes! It is a hobby, and I like to make things pretty. But I've already promised to take this thing off the beaten path, so I know it'll get dirty.

Well, we have the 1995 460 instructions on there. (Documentation/Engine/385 Series) But I could put the 1985 section on there as well. Will be later in the week though.

I'm not sure I'm the one you are asking, but all that signal does is to tell the clock that the lights are on so it should dim. And I'll bet it will work hooked to the LB/R wire. The clock is expecting either no voltage or battery voltage, so should accept the dimmed signal just fine.

Thanks, Bob. It won't make it work any better, but it makes me feel better.

At least you found some. And I'd agree - go with the NOS one.

Got the t-case PC'd today. Here are a few shots. However, it'll probably be Friday before I get to start assembling the thing. We have a funeral at church tomorrow that'll take essentially all day, and Wed & Thursday we have appointments in Tulsa. So doubt much will get done 'til Friday. Scott - Is this what you had in mind? Here's the bolts and yokes: Here's the t-case front: And the back:

Was waiting on the PC'd parts to get done today and had a few minutes so thought I'd try out the new scanner. I cut the 38-page 300 six section out of the '85 FSM and had it scanned in within 2 minutes, if not less. The computer had a think about it, OCR'ing and straightening it, and then it was ready. Easy peasy! It is now residing on the page at Documentation/Engines/300 Six on the Instructions tab. That was so easy I'm wondering what y'all think the next section from the FSM should be?

JB, you are now on the map. And, I like the sig. Thanks.