Gary Lewis

Ok, I'm trying to get down to specifics. I've found several braided looms: PET: This is good to 257 F. Nylon: I can't find a temp rating on this. As for the cobra headed zip ties, are these they? If so, I haven't found the gun yet. Any suggestions?

Interesting. Certainly not Mustang. The part number is a TYPE 9 Transfer (tailgate), and specifically: Chamois (1981/85) E1TZ 9942528-AT (Not replaced 1/94) As for the instructions, here they are and I've saved them to be put on the tape stripe page, w/a reminder in my ever-growing spreadsheet.

JB - Welcome! Glad you joined. How 'bout creating a signature that tells us about your truck, as well as your name if you don't mind. The details on the truck help up answer your questions more accurately, and the name just makes things more personal. Details on how to do that are in the Bullnose Forum/FAQ's. And, would you mind if I added you to our map? Bullnose Forum/Member's map. Hope you'll start a new thread in the main section to tell us what you are doing to your truck and to chronicle its progress.

Yep. 460's have a drinking problem. But, they are fun! Plus, they have charisma. Everyone thinks they want one.

I think we've seen this one before. Seem to recall the lack of pics of the engine, but I may be wrong. Anyway, nice truck. Looks like a prettier Big Blue.

Welcome! Glad you joined. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section regarding your truck. But you are welcome to post some pics here to show us what you have. And, a signature that tells us what it is helps us remember so we can answer questions more accurately. Signature and pic posting are explained on the Bullnose Forum/FAQ's page.

Good job, Bob! Looks really useful for the winch, and a lifesaver on the Jeep. (That's a really poor design on the battery for it.) I like the idea of backing in and pulling yourself out if needed. Hopefully you won't need to, but it is much better to safe than sorry.

Glad you got it going.

I think I'd keep the bigger one, especially if it is new.

I'd try to start it normally, briefly. If it doesn't light off quickly then pull the air cleaner and check the choke. But it may well go easily by then.

Flooring it should do it. But, not all carb linkages are adjusted such that they fully open the choke. And when you floor it you inject some fuel via the accelerator pump, so that doesn't help.

Flooring the accelerator is the key I'll bet. That should open the choke. So, I'm guessing the choke is on fully and the engine is flooded. Pull the air cleaner and check the choke. If it is closed either back the three screws out slightly on the black cover and turn it to open the choke, or somehow block it open - but not with anything that can fall down inside the carb. And then try to start it.

Don’t forget to look in Econoline vans. Many had AC and only one fuel tank. That’s where I found the control panel for my ‘81. That's interesting 'cause all of the van controls start with E?UZ where the F & U-series controls start with E?TZ. So I'd assumed that they wouldn't work. But that's the problem with getting all of your limited knowledge from a book. You don't know what might work in spite of what the book says.

I'm giving Dissenter a try. We shall see. But I had to tell it to use Google for searches as that is certainly my favorite since it lets me get verbatim results and not results with just a portion of what I asked for.

Not going to get much, if anything, done on Big Blue today as we have church, then a luncheon, then make 3 dozen sandwiches, then a church service at the retirement home, and then the Super Bowl. But, I thought I'd take some time to set the record straight on the oil pump issue. Turns out that the oil pump for the BW1345 is entirely different than that of the BW1356. The latter has an arm that rides on the case and can cause problems w/o having something added to it that spreads the load so it doesn't damage the case. But the 1345's oil pump doesn't ride on the case. I'll try to remember to take some pics as this one goes back together, but the pic below from the FSM shows it fairly well. The oil pump slides over the rear output shaft and has four screws that secure its cover instead of having an arm that hits the side of the case. So there's no need for modification.

Bill - Please do post how you've done it. And pics. That will help. As for zip ties, I once bought a bag of ties that included red, green, yellow, and blue ones. I don't use those colors anywhere they can be seen, but I do like to use them as I mock up harnesses. Yours was a good reminder. And you are right about the pre-86 wire colors. Your 1986 EVTM explains that the dots and hash marks were replaced by stripes. I also knew that the wire colors stayed the same for the same circuit over the years. But I didn't know the harness numbering was consistent. Good to know.

Jim - Thanks, that's the stuff. And we still need that tips and tricks discussion. I've started a new thread on it: Harness Making Tips & Tricks.

This thread may get moved into the Tips & Tricks section at some point, but we already have a thread called Tips & Techniques: Harness work in the Garage/Shop & Tools and then the Techniques section. But it seems to only have info on connectors and I think we need something on making, or re-making, a harness. We have bits and pieces of ideas here and there, so need to collect them. For instance, in Big Blue's Transformation Jim suggested that "A roll of those little Velcro cable wraps we use in server rooms and underfloor will be your best friend when dealing with that spaghetti monster." And a bit later he said "Get this wire loom Tesa tape while you're at it. It really makes a difference!" Then, in a followup, he said "I use convolute on some runs, braided sleeve is good too, where you don't need protection from the elements. But this is especially good for junctions and wrapping sections (candycane like) inside the plastic sleeve, if that's what you choose to do. It gives 'body' to the harness, resists most fouling and heat, and allows you to lay it into corners and around obstructions as you like." What I'm hoping to do is to have a lively discussion about how best to make or repair a harness. For instance, I'm going to be completely re-doing a '96 wiring harness to use on Big Blue, and I'd like to do it well. But all I've ever done is to put it in place, zip tie it in a few places, and then cover it with convolute. Perhaps y'all could educate me on the better ways to do that?

Super Clean might have gotten it clean, but it wouldn't have removed the stain. I was down to bare metal on the vast majority of the surface of the two halves, but there was that stain. But blasting got the stain off. So, as Shaun suggested, I'll probably move on to preparing for powder. Not a lot to do but to blow them off very carefully with compressed air, rinse them with brake cleaner, bake them at 400 for an hour to drive off any embedded yuk, rinse them again, and then apply the powder and bake again. Oh, and I forgot the masking step.

What's it off of? The SuperCoupe?

Forget that question. That's a function of the search engine and not the browser. I should have know that. (Retired from IT.) I've set Google as my search engine and I can now force it to verbatim. I'll have a play with Dissenter, but it seems faster than Chrome at first blush.

Don't see any Spanish in the image. Dissenter? Just downloaded it and will give it a try. I use Chrome because it allows me to force the result to be verbatim. Was in the Microsoft store buying this tablet and the tech suggested I use Edge. I asked him if I could force it to give me only what I typed in and he said no browser does. I showed him that Chrome does. So, can I do that on Dissenter? If so, and if it doesn't use as many resources as Chrome I might switch.

That is one strange looking carb. I've seen pics of them, but have never been around one. Looks like a standard Holley/Motorcraft accelerator pump on the side, but don't recognize anything else - except the backfire. But when he revs it the thing sounds healthy.

Wow! That's amazing! Exactly the # we expected. On the harness, I think Jim had a suggestion on what to use - but I've forgotten what it is.

It would take a bit of work. The 3D printers don't leave a smooth surface, so the valve won't seal w/o smoothing the parts. Perhaps lapping them together?