Gary Lewis

80/86 F—U100/350 - - gas EOTZ 17360-A #E0TF 17360—AA, E6TF 17360-AA-6000 RPM - use w/appropriate 10K843

80/86 F100/350(Reg. Cab) EOTZ 10502B84-A

80/82 F-U100/350 (99) EOTZ 17906-B r/bE2TZ 17906-B Painted low gloss black-dealer paint to match

Yes, those are correct for the Bullnose trucks.

Yellow would be my guess. But, maybe they are greenish?

Had another sorta big day today, documentation wise. Took a bunch of documentation out to the ladies who do the scanning I can't do, including several from Shaun. But, some of the things I could do so here's what I did. And, I need your help on some of them. Emissions Info: Here's one place I need help. I have a book called 1985 CAR & TRUCK ENGINE/EMISSION FACTS ROOK SUMMARY which has some info on the emissions systems as well as a very good glossary of terms, a parts symbol identification chart, and all the 1985 calibration codes, which includes the vacuum diagrams. I scanned in only the 112 pages applicable to our trucks and put the document on a tab called 1985 Emissions Info on the Documentation/Calibration Info & Part #'s page. I'd really appreciate it if you'd look it over and help me figure out where it really ought to go. CB Radio: Shaun sent several documents that I could scan, and they are on the Instructions tab and include: 1980 Light Truck Exterior Colors: This is on the Documentation/Literature/1980 Literature page and shows the colors as well as the Tu-Tone options for the trucks. And it is from Shaun as well. 1986 Literature: I added a couple of documents here:

Thanks, Jim! I would have forgotten the lube for the splines.

That is tough to answer, so I'll just post this from the 1985 brochure:

Thanks, David.

I'm using the original Eastwood gun, but if I were buying now I'd go with their dual voltage gun, both shown here. However, you should consider the starter kit. But there are other brands, including Harbor Freight, and I don't know how much better or worse they are. Here are some things you'll need: High temp tape: Use this in masking where you don't want powder, like bearing races or where seals go, and to hold aluminum foil in place when masking with it High temp plugs and caps: The silicone-based plugs and caps are essential in keeping powder out of places it shouldn't be Wire: Their stainless wire works nicely to hang things from, but any bare wire w/o any oil on it would work Media blasting: You really have to have parts CLEAN in order to powder coat them, and I find media blasting them to be the best way to clean them - after you've gotten the grease and oil off first Gloves: You can't touch the parts once they are clean, so the thin throw-away gloves are very handy Brake cleaner: Media blasting will leave dust on the parts that air doesn't seem to take off, so I spray the parts with brake cleaner Oven: I got by very well for quite some time with a $35 kitchen range from a second-hand store. That can work for intake manifolds, valve covers, etc but won't work for a transfer case. I now have a used but commercially-made oven that is 3' x 3' x 6' tall. Compressed air: It only takes ~6 psi to waft the powder onto the parts, so any compressor will work Powder: I'm still using Eastwood's powder, although I've read there is better and cheaper powder

Didn't expect to get anything done on Big Blue today for two reasons. First, we had a doctor's checkup in Tulsa today and that usually takes a lot of the day. We were early and things went perfectly so we got home early. And second, I planned to take the rest of the day to scan things in. But, the new rear tranny mount came in today so I just couldn't help installing it since that will be lots easier than after the t-case is on. So I'll start on assembling the t-case tomorrow. But the rear crossmember is now all buttoned down.

Interesting. There are three different ones, and I don't understand the difference. Perhaps someone can help? In other words, what is the diff between the yellow and green ones? Which ones were used one which trucks?

The bumper and wheels look pretty good. Maybe you could save it, Shaun?

It is a nice truck. But I think it is slightly overpriced. Not that you could recreate it for that, as you couldn't. But you should be able to get it for a bit less. However, it does look clean and straight.

Thanks, Jim.

Thanks, Bill. I thought that was the case.

Okiehoma is a yoyo - two days ago it was 70. Today snow and 29. Two days from now 60. Drove Blue in 4A mode today, meaning automatic 4wd. A setting only the top-end trucks have. It was fun to see the power distribution switch from the rear axle to the front and then back as we encountered slushy conditions.

Welcome! Doing my best to make sure we have the best documentation anywhere in the world on these trucks.

Yeah I have a feeling it won't be fun to remove the garage seal and adhesive...LOL. Luckily I still have the spare seal from the kit, just have to get a new tube of adhesive. Why the glue? The factory seal was never glued on, I did not use any glue and have not heard of others using glue. Dave ---- I used "glue". Blackjack more specifically. That's to keep the water from going behind the seal, right down the firewall/cowl and onto the engine and/or the air cleaner.

WOW!

I don't know on the intakes. First thing off the top of my head is that the '88 engine will be set up for serpentine belt and will therefore have a reverse rotation water pump from your '85 302. So if you're keeping the V-Belt arrangement on your '85, you'll have to replace the water pump on the '88. I'm not sure if the timing covers are different between the two different rotation pumps or not...check on that just in case. Either way, you could swap the '85 parts over to the '88 block. The engines...as in the blocks/heads will have mild differences. The '88 302 will have E7 heads while the '85 heads will be either D8 or E6 versions. The '88 will likely have slightly higher compression. Good points, Cory. I can't say if the water pumps rotate differently, but they sure have different part numbers. And the same holds true of the timing covers, although the 1986 and earlier takes one and 1987 and later takes another.

Rear spring rates are difficult to figure out. So if Rock Auto has a good way to do it, more power to them. But, here are the pages we have on the subject: Spring Codes: Here you can convert the code on the certification label to the part number of the springs. But that doesn't give you the spring rates. Rear Springs: Here you can find the capacity of the various part numbers. Doubt that will help though, but there 'tis.

Well done, Dave! You are into the mopping up phases. Lots of little things to sort out. You are really getting there.

I hope they get that much for it 'cause I have one just like it I'd sell for that price. And that shows one of the reasons I don't like the burled wood design - the way it turns purple.

83/84 E—F100/250.U150 - - exc. Calif. 8 302 E3TZ 9B466-G #E3TE 9B466-GA.GB