Gary Lewis

The throttle cable will be: 85/ F-U150/250 - - AOD 8 302,351 EFI E5TZ 9A758-A 40" long But on the fuel injector harness, I can't find anything. Does yours have a label of any kind on it? If so I might be able to cross reference that ID # to a part #, but other than that I can't find electrical harnesses. Sorry.

Welcome! What part of Maryland? I used to live just the other side of the curve 'tween PA and DE, just off Route 7. Kids went to school in Hockessin, PA and I worked in Wilmington, DE. But some times I had to go to the office in Falls Church. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city.

It does look good, and it is a decent price.

Sounds like a good plan. But did Edelbrock give you a pressure #? Their carbs don't like more than 6 psi, but surely their pump would work with their carbs.

If the cut one is off the sector box, which seems to be the case, then I think the line from the pump to the booster may work. It has to be twisted a bit to connect, but I may be able to help that some. I'll do some more checking tomorrow.

Chris - Thanks for joining. We can help you through this, and it is probably something that needs to be on our 3G page, so we will want to do it "well". However, as said in the FB chat, I'm headed out right now and won't get to this until either late today or tomorrow. Perhaps the others will help in the interim. Having said that, please go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread about yourself and your truck. The guidelines are important as we hold everyone to them. And, don't forget the signature thing as that helps us answer questions w/o having to scroll back through everything trying to figure out what you have. Instructions for a signature on on the FAQ's page: Bullnose Forum/FAQ's in the menu.

That is scary! Illustrations and the factory shop manual instructions are here: Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns.

Success! Glad you got it sorted, even if it wasn't just lubrication.

Yes, #'s on parts are frequently done in short-hand and the generic # is left out. You are supposed to supply the 9A486 in this case. If the major parts houses are accepting those #'s it is scary because you could stick just about any generic part number in there. E1TE is used millions of times, as are D1A and D2A. So to order an E1TE-D1A could get you a radio or windshield wipers, or anything else. So I'd stick to using the full part number and/or ID number. Those are the numbers anyone will need in order to search for the part.

Jim - That seems to be the easiest approach for the return. Having said that, I'm confused again. Do you remember which tube you cut? In other words, did you cut it off the steering gear or the power steering pump? (I think it was probably the one to the steering gear?) I ask because something is not adding up. First, Jonathan says the line from the pump to the booster on the SuperDuty shouldn't fit the Saginaw pump. But this looks to be a perfect fit as the line has a tip that should engage in the o-ring perfectly. And it screws in nicely. But here's the C2's outlet and it doesn't have that o-ring. Is it the right fitting? I thought I could clear this up by going to the '95 FSM's diagram shown above, but that confused me even more as it says the connections are to the Power Steering Oil Reservoir, Power Steering Right Turn Pressure Hose, and Power Steering Left Turn Pressure Hose. Huh?? So I looked at another drawing in the FSM and it seems to say the front one is the return, the middle one the supply, and rear one goes to the steering gear. Does that seem to make sense? The middle one is the one with the fitting still on it and it seems to fit the Saginaw pump nicely. And if that is the case then the line I need is the one from the hydroboost unit to the power steering gear.

I carved the hydroboost pages out of the 1995 FSM and put them here: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab, then the Factory Shop Manual Sections tab, and finally on the Hydroboost tab.

Thanks, Bill. I got to looking at the hoses coming out of the hydroboost unit and decided I'd check out the 1995 FSM to see what it shows. And in order to make that easier I carved those pages out of the FSM and put them here: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab, then the Factory Shop Manual Sections tab, and finally on the Hydroboost tab. Here's what it says in the Description And Operation section: And here's what it shows for the plumbing of the F-Super Duty Chassis Cab, and you can see the C2 pump with the two returns, one on the neck for the hydroboost and the other on the back bottom of the reservoir: Here's what it shows for the Commercial application. Note that they use a tee for the returns.

Bobbylee - Welcome! Glad you joined. However, I hope you've read the email I sent you. Among other things it said to: That step is important as we hold everyone to the guidelines, so you need to have read them and if you haven't please do so. As for your project, I'm not sure what experience we have with 99 frames, but is it an F150, 250, 350, SuperDuty, or what? I think that will make a difference. Anyway, I'm sure others with more knowledge than I will be along soon. Again, welcome!

Ya'll are right - memory loss is a pain! Anyway, the mystery is solved. I have the wrong bracket installed. It is a C2 bracket that has never been broken and is nicely powder coated. Bill - do need such a bracket for Darth? Below is a pic with a C2 bracket on the top and a Saginaw bracket on the bottom - with a Sag pump installed. (That's the bracket and pump Jonathan sent to me - thanks again!) Note that the Sag bracket has been neatly repaired where the bottom tab was broken off - probably because someone didn't install the plate behind the water pump. And note that the C2 bracket is still broken - and I know why it was broken as it was on Huck and had no backing plate. Also, note that the Sag bracket only has holes for three bolts, even though the pump itself has four bolt holes. The Ford application didn't use the fourth bolt hole. And therein may have been why and where I erred. I knew that a Sag pump has four bolt holes, so I assume I looked at the three brackets I have and realized all three have three bolt holes, but didn't look at the spacing. Given that I picked the best of them - the one that hadn't been broken. (That's my excuse and I'm sticking with it. ) But obviously I chose poorly. So now I'll have to blast and PC the Sag bracket. Sure glad it was caught at this point as that won't be all that big of an issue. However, I'll then need to sort out the pressure hose, although Jonathan has given a good solution. And then there's the return, and both Alfie and Jonathan have said just teeing it into the normal return will work. Or, I could either try to find a hydroboost reservoir or braze a return fitting into this one. Now we are back on track! Thanks for bringing me back gently.

Your questions: Orange is the height of the wing: 4 1/2" Green is the depth of the horizontal base plate from the frame to front edge of the bracket: 7 3/8" Purple is the width from the outside of the frame rail to the inside edge of the bracket: 8" Angle of the break at the bottom of the frame: 67 degrees Angle of the break going across bracket from frame: 77 degrees And here are the pics of where I took the measurements:

Steve - He's not likely to find anything with E1TE-D2A on it. First, that's not a part number, it is an ID or engineering number. Second, it isn't even all of the ID or engineering number. Let me try to explain. Every part has two numbers - the part number and the ID/engineering number. But the part number is never put on the part. Only the ID/engineering # is put on the part. (Don't ask, I don't know why.) And part numbers don't end in "D2A". Only ID/engineering #'s do. So I know that's an ID #. Both types of numbers are made up of three parts. Let's take part # E1TZ 9A486-D as an example. Prefix: The E says it is in the decade of 1980 - 89. The 1 says it is 1980 + 1 = 1981. The T says Truck. And the Z says replacement part. Generic #: In this case the generic # is 9A486, and that's a thermactor pump. Every Ford thermactor pump will have 9A486 in its part number, regardless of where in the world it is used or on what vehicle. Suffix: That's the revision # if you will. A is the first revision, B is another, etc. BUT, B could be so different from A that the two cannot be swapped. Or, it may work perfectly. And there's no way to know from the catalog. So, the ID/engineering # for the pump you are looking for is probably E1TE 9A486-D2A. Ford frequently leaves the generic # out for short hand. But, the ID #'s generic # is not always the same as the part #. And, some people advertise parts by their ID/engineering number w/o knowing it isn't a part number. And some advertise correctly with the part #. So we need to give both #'s to David. Where did you get that #? Do you know the calibration code for your truck? If so, we can get the #'s there.

Sorry, poor terminology on my part. At the top of the cylinder is what is usually referred to as a ridge, and it runs all the way around. It is where the rings haven't run, leaving the original bore size, and below that is the worn cylinder which is larger. The rule of thumb is that if you can catch your fingernail on the ridge then the cylinder is worn and you'll have to bore it out. But, that is only a guideline. The etch I'm talking about is where the water sat in the cylinder and rusted the wall. That left pits and the rings can't expand down into them so there will be gasses blowing by the rings at that point - called blow-by. That's what I'm concerned about. Let's see what others say about it.

David enjoys using his gifts of remembering and finding things. (Or, to put it another way, he enjoys spending other's money. )

Yes, I'd forgotten that, Jonathan. But what I don't know is which bracket I've powder coated and installed. Not that it is a big deal as PC'ing the other one isn't hard and swapping is a piece of cake at this point. But, I didn't pay any attention to which one I used, so will have to go see in a bit. And, knowing I had the Saginaw is why you explained what you did about the Chevy pressure line. Thanks!

I don't think the staining is a problem, but I'm not so sure about the etched places in the second pic. If you can feel the etching then I don't think the rings will seal.

So, in my first post, above, I knew the one from Jim is a C2. (Of all the things I've lost in my life, my memory is the one I miss the most. But wait, maybe I've never been able to remember? I can't remember whether I could or not. ) And, do I have a Saginaw bracket and pump from Jonathan???? I'll have to go figure this out in a bit. The plot thickens.....

Nice truck. Would be a good daily driver and still be able to tow with the 5.8L.

Oh, and now I remember - you just had to cut the tube 'cause you couldn't get the fitting off. No problemo as I should be able to either have a new fitting crimped on or just buy the correct hose.

I wasn't too interested as I planned to go with a Saginaw, although I thought getting the hoses was a good idea so wanted that whole setup. But, having gotten this far and knowing that the C2 apparently worked fine on the SuperDuty I think I'll use it.

I don't know if they make for HF, but Tractor Supply carries their 3 ton version. Here's the pic from the Powerbuilt website on the left, and the one from Tractor Supply on the right. I've looked at those and thought they'd be nice to have. But I haven't bought any - yet.