Gary Lewis

This thread may get moved into the Tips & Tricks section at some point, but we already have a thread called Tips & Techniques: Harness work in the Garage/Shop & Tools and then the Techniques section. But it seems to only have info on connectors and I think we need something on making, or re-making, a harness. We have bits and pieces of ideas here and there, so need to collect them. For instance, in Big Blue's Transformation Jim suggested that "A roll of those little Velcro cable wraps we use in server rooms and underfloor will be your best friend when dealing with that spaghetti monster." And a bit later he said "Get this wire loom Tesa tape while you're at it. It really makes a difference!" Then, in a followup, he said "I use convolute on some runs, braided sleeve is good too, where you don't need protection from the elements. But this is especially good for junctions and wrapping sections (candycane like) inside the plastic sleeve, if that's what you choose to do. It gives 'body' to the harness, resists most fouling and heat, and allows you to lay it into corners and around obstructions as you like." What I'm hoping to do is to have a lively discussion about how best to make or repair a harness. For instance, I'm going to be completely re-doing a '96 wiring harness to use on Big Blue, and I'd like to do it well. But all I've ever done is to put it in place, zip tie it in a few places, and then cover it with convolute. Perhaps y'all could educate me on the better ways to do that?

Super Clean might have gotten it clean, but it wouldn't have removed the stain. I was down to bare metal on the vast majority of the surface of the two halves, but there was that stain. But blasting got the stain off. So, as Shaun suggested, I'll probably move on to preparing for powder. Not a lot to do but to blow them off very carefully with compressed air, rinse them with brake cleaner, bake them at 400 for an hour to drive off any embedded yuk, rinse them again, and then apply the powder and bake again. Oh, and I forgot the masking step.

What's it off of? The SuperCoupe?

Forget that question. That's a function of the search engine and not the browser. I should have know that. (Retired from IT.) I've set Google as my search engine and I can now force it to verbatim. I'll have a play with Dissenter, but it seems faster than Chrome at first blush.

Don't see any Spanish in the image. Dissenter? Just downloaded it and will give it a try. I use Chrome because it allows me to force the result to be verbatim. Was in the Microsoft store buying this tablet and the tech suggested I use Edge. I asked him if I could force it to give me only what I typed in and he said no browser does. I showed him that Chrome does. So, can I do that on Dissenter? If so, and if it doesn't use as many resources as Chrome I might switch.

That is one strange looking carb. I've seen pics of them, but have never been around one. Looks like a standard Holley/Motorcraft accelerator pump on the side, but don't recognize anything else - except the backfire. But when he revs it the thing sounds healthy.

Wow! That's amazing! Exactly the # we expected. On the harness, I think Jim had a suggestion on what to use - but I've forgotten what it is.

It would take a bit of work. The 3D printers don't leave a smooth surface, so the valve won't seal w/o smoothing the parts. Perhaps lapping them together?

Interesting. What browser are you using? I've done some playing with it and have revised the wording, so would you check it out and see what you think? Does that approach change your experience? Does the pointer still need to be pointed at the members?

How 'bout giving us a video of it idling? If you don't know how let me know and I can provide instructions. As for figuring out if you have a cam that "bigger" than stock, that's not easy. If you don't have any documentation then the only way I know of to do it is to measure the lift with a dial indicator at the valve while noting the open & close times using a degree wheel on the crankshaft. I've done it, and it is tedious. Having said all that, if the air/fuel mix is too lean you can get an unsteady idle where the engine almost dies and then recovers, almost dies and then recovers, time after time. Also, it is possible to have a similar problem if the choke is on too far and the vacuum pull-off pulls it too far off. So make sure the choke if fully off before you start adjusting the idle air/fuel mix. If you have to, loosen the three screws and dial the choke back so it is fully open.

Oh, why not? I think you should I detailed my tcase and then painted it with the Eastwood cast aluminum paint and then clearcoated it. Can't say if it will last too long under there but if/when it comes out again, it's getting coated. Scott - You may be correct that it needs to be coated..... As said, I put one half of the t-case in the dishwasher and the other half in the parts washer and prepared to let them get CLEAN. However, about that time Janey invited me to go to Owasso and, while there, get lunch at the new burger place. How can you refuse an offer to go on a date with your best girl? So I checked that everything was fine and we headed out. When we got home about 2 1/2 hours later I pulled both halves out of the washers and discovered that neither approach had accomplished much. Both still had caked on crusty stuff in the corners, and there are LOTS of those, and were tarnished more than I wanted to accept. And that's after many hours of fussing with them in the parts washer with brushes, shifting the way the Simple Green was flowing, etc. Plus, I'd used brake cleaner - to no avail. So, I protected the bearing, seal, and gasket surfaces and put them in the blast cabinet. And after 1/2 hour on each they came out looking like new castings. But, it is obvious that they are very porous and will stain in a heart beat, and then they'll look just like they did before. So, I believe they need to be PC'd or painted to seal them. (I know that the t-case won't work any better one way or the other, but it is what I want to do, and this is a hobby. ) Paint would be easier. I could use Eastwood's Detail Gray and it would match the tranny. But powder would be more durable. So I'm thinking through which approach I want to take.

I invited him and gave him a link to this thread.

Well, I decided to take a two-pronged approach. The first was to put the rear half, which was the dirtiest, back in the parts washer and add a gallon of Krud Kutter House & Siding liquid to the Simple Green. That stuff is specifically made for things like aluminum, so we shall see. The other prong was to put the front half in the "dish washer" that is in the shop and put it on Pots & Pans. What do you think?

Sorry. Calibration parts list No. 492. Oh, ok. Got it. Good luck on finding the parts.

It won't contaminate the media any more than rust does. The stuff that's on the case is hard. It isn't goo, but almost brittle. Simple Green won't soften it, and so far brake cleaner hasn't. And I wouldn't boil the case halves after blasting, but blow them out with air and wash them with brake cleaner. However, I'm not saying I will blast them. My first move will be to try brake cleaner and a brush to see what I can get off. I'm not expecting the t-case to be shiny, but I do want it to be clean. I want it to be obvious that it was rebuilt. It is just the way I am.

"492"? Not sure I understand. But, I do hope one of those outfits has the part. Let us know, please.

Not at all. Wouldn't be so bad if my spare tire wasn't two sizes too small (33" vs 35"). I need to get a full-size spare. Yep, that's a good catch. But changing 35" tires must be FUN. My 33's are quite heavy, so I can only imagine.

Here it is on its way north, posted in Bullnose ford truck group ( 80 to 86 F series ). You can see that Cory and I both liked it.

Yep. Did you try it? Did it work? Does it make sense?

Turns out you can search the map page for people. I've added this text to the page: Does that make sense?

That's going to be a game changer! You are really going to love that. Cool!

Ron - Yes, I've gotten on it in Sport mode. With my wife, son, DiL, and granddaughter in it. Did it just to show my son. He was impressed. And, I routinely use Sport Mode when merging onto 169 North from 71st South in Tulsa. Two lanes merge into one before you get onto 169, and then that lane exits pretty quickly. So you frequently have to worry about someone beside you thinking they are going to be the one to have "the lane". In Sport Mode there's been no issue. And, don't miss that I have the Max Tow package, so I have 3.55 gears. Not the 3.23's most trucks get. I had a loaner one time that had the 3.23's and it took me a while to work out why it wasn't as quick.

Saw this on FB. Note the rear axle on the Henry J. And those rear tires might not be stock. Also note what's pulling the trailer.

I hadn't noticed the similarities, and I've had mine parked side by side several times. But I see what you are saying. As far as liking the new trucks, I really like my 2015. And the EcoBoost engine is a serious winner.

I have to disagree, two of the four mounting points for the bench seats in both my F150 and my F350 wiggled loose from the sheet metal. All they are is square nuts spot welded to the sheet metal. I don't trust the factory holes with my life. There are definitely MUCH stronger options for mounting the seats in these trucks, and I will definitely be heading down that road when the time comes. Sounds like it would be a good idea to do a how to thread on reinforcing the seat mounts. The holes on both of my trucks are reinforced. I'll take some pics and post them tomorrow. But I've not had any problems with them pulling loose.