Gary Lewis

Yes! It is a hobby, and I like to make things pretty. But I've already promised to take this thing off the beaten path, so I know it'll get dirty.

Well, we have the 1995 460 instructions on there. (Documentation/Engine/385 Series) But I could put the 1985 section on there as well. Will be later in the week though.

I'm not sure I'm the one you are asking, but all that signal does is to tell the clock that the lights are on so it should dim. And I'll bet it will work hooked to the LB/R wire. The clock is expecting either no voltage or battery voltage, so should accept the dimmed signal just fine.

Thanks, Bob. It won't make it work any better, but it makes me feel better.

At least you found some. And I'd agree - go with the NOS one.

Got the t-case PC'd today. Here are a few shots. However, it'll probably be Friday before I get to start assembling the thing. We have a funeral at church tomorrow that'll take essentially all day, and Wed & Thursday we have appointments in Tulsa. So doubt much will get done 'til Friday. Scott - Is this what you had in mind? Here's the bolts and yokes: Here's the t-case front: And the back:

Was waiting on the PC'd parts to get done today and had a few minutes so thought I'd try out the new scanner. I cut the 38-page 300 six section out of the '85 FSM and had it scanned in within 2 minutes, if not less. The computer had a think about it, OCR'ing and straightening it, and then it was ready. Easy peasy! It is now residing on the page at Documentation/Engines/300 Six on the Instructions tab. That was so easy I'm wondering what y'all think the next section from the FSM should be?

JB, you are now on the map. And, I like the sig. Thanks.

Ok, I'm trying to get down to specifics. I've found several braided looms: PET: This is good to 257 F. Nylon: I can't find a temp rating on this. As for the cobra headed zip ties, are these they? If so, I haven't found the gun yet. Any suggestions?

Interesting. Certainly not Mustang. The part number is a TYPE 9 Transfer (tailgate), and specifically: Chamois (1981/85) E1TZ 9942528-AT (Not replaced 1/94) As for the instructions, here they are and I've saved them to be put on the tape stripe page, w/a reminder in my ever-growing spreadsheet.

JB - Welcome! Glad you joined. How 'bout creating a signature that tells us about your truck, as well as your name if you don't mind. The details on the truck help up answer your questions more accurately, and the name just makes things more personal. Details on how to do that are in the Bullnose Forum/FAQ's. And, would you mind if I added you to our map? Bullnose Forum/Member's map. Hope you'll start a new thread in the main section to tell us what you are doing to your truck and to chronicle its progress.

Yep. 460's have a drinking problem. But, they are fun! Plus, they have charisma. Everyone thinks they want one.

I think we've seen this one before. Seem to recall the lack of pics of the engine, but I may be wrong. Anyway, nice truck. Looks like a prettier Big Blue.

Welcome! Glad you joined. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a city. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section regarding your truck. But you are welcome to post some pics here to show us what you have. And, a signature that tells us what it is helps us remember so we can answer questions more accurately. Signature and pic posting are explained on the Bullnose Forum/FAQ's page.

Good job, Bob! Looks really useful for the winch, and a lifesaver on the Jeep. (That's a really poor design on the battery for it.) I like the idea of backing in and pulling yourself out if needed. Hopefully you won't need to, but it is much better to safe than sorry.

Glad you got it going.

I think I'd keep the bigger one, especially if it is new.

I'd try to start it normally, briefly. If it doesn't light off quickly then pull the air cleaner and check the choke. But it may well go easily by then.

Flooring it should do it. But, not all carb linkages are adjusted such that they fully open the choke. And when you floor it you inject some fuel via the accelerator pump, so that doesn't help.

Flooring the accelerator is the key I'll bet. That should open the choke. So, I'm guessing the choke is on fully and the engine is flooded. Pull the air cleaner and check the choke. If it is closed either back the three screws out slightly on the black cover and turn it to open the choke, or somehow block it open - but not with anything that can fall down inside the carb. And then try to start it.

Don’t forget to look in Econoline vans. Many had AC and only one fuel tank. That’s where I found the control panel for my ‘81. That's interesting 'cause all of the van controls start with E?UZ where the F & U-series controls start with E?TZ. So I'd assumed that they wouldn't work. But that's the problem with getting all of your limited knowledge from a book. You don't know what might work in spite of what the book says.

I'm giving Dissenter a try. We shall see. But I had to tell it to use Google for searches as that is certainly my favorite since it lets me get verbatim results and not results with just a portion of what I asked for.

Not going to get much, if anything, done on Big Blue today as we have church, then a luncheon, then make 3 dozen sandwiches, then a church service at the retirement home, and then the Super Bowl. But, I thought I'd take some time to set the record straight on the oil pump issue. Turns out that the oil pump for the BW1345 is entirely different than that of the BW1356. The latter has an arm that rides on the case and can cause problems w/o having something added to it that spreads the load so it doesn't damage the case. But the 1345's oil pump doesn't ride on the case. I'll try to remember to take some pics as this one goes back together, but the pic below from the FSM shows it fairly well. The oil pump slides over the rear output shaft and has four screws that secure its cover instead of having an arm that hits the side of the case. So there's no need for modification.

Bill - Please do post how you've done it. And pics. That will help. As for zip ties, I once bought a bag of ties that included red, green, yellow, and blue ones. I don't use those colors anywhere they can be seen, but I do like to use them as I mock up harnesses. Yours was a good reminder. And you are right about the pre-86 wire colors. Your 1986 EVTM explains that the dots and hash marks were replaced by stripes. I also knew that the wire colors stayed the same for the same circuit over the years. But I didn't know the harness numbering was consistent. Good to know.

Jim - Thanks, that's the stuff. And we still need that tips and tricks discussion. I've started a new thread on it: Harness Making Tips & Tricks.