Gary Lewis

Welcome! Doing my best to make sure we have the best documentation anywhere in the world on these trucks.

Yeah I have a feeling it won't be fun to remove the garage seal and adhesive...LOL. Luckily I still have the spare seal from the kit, just have to get a new tube of adhesive. Why the glue? The factory seal was never glued on, I did not use any glue and have not heard of others using glue. Dave ---- I used "glue". Blackjack more specifically. That's to keep the water from going behind the seal, right down the firewall/cowl and onto the engine and/or the air cleaner.

WOW!

I don't know on the intakes. First thing off the top of my head is that the '88 engine will be set up for serpentine belt and will therefore have a reverse rotation water pump from your '85 302. So if you're keeping the V-Belt arrangement on your '85, you'll have to replace the water pump on the '88. I'm not sure if the timing covers are different between the two different rotation pumps or not...check on that just in case. Either way, you could swap the '85 parts over to the '88 block. The engines...as in the blocks/heads will have mild differences. The '88 302 will have E7 heads while the '85 heads will be either D8 or E6 versions. The '88 will likely have slightly higher compression. Good points, Cory. I can't say if the water pumps rotate differently, but they sure have different part numbers. And the same holds true of the timing covers, although the 1986 and earlier takes one and 1987 and later takes another.

Rear spring rates are difficult to figure out. So if Rock Auto has a good way to do it, more power to them. But, here are the pages we have on the subject: Spring Codes: Here you can convert the code on the certification label to the part number of the springs. But that doesn't give you the spring rates. Rear Springs: Here you can find the capacity of the various part numbers. Doubt that will help though, but there 'tis.

Well done, Dave! You are into the mopping up phases. Lots of little things to sort out. You are really getting there.

I hope they get that much for it 'cause I have one just like it I'd sell for that price. And that shows one of the reasons I don't like the burled wood design - the way it turns purple.

83/84 E—F100/250.U150 - - exc. Calif. 8 302 E3TZ 9B466-G #E3TE 9B466-GA.GB

Yes, someone has. Or is. Me. In Big Blue. And, Bill/85lebaront2 has done it to Darth. If you are a glutton for punishment you can read all about it, and LOT'S more, in Big Blue's Transformation, which is now to 78 pages and growing steadily. Or, I can give you the info in a nut shell and you can ask questions of Bill and/or me. But first, you said you bought a '97 F250, presumably with the 460. And you said it has overdrive. Is that an auto with OD? Or manual? If auto it'll be the E4OD. If manual it'll be the ZF5. However, the big question is what ECU yours has - EEC-IV or EEC-V? The IV will be bank-fire and no mass air flow sensor, and that looks to be what you have, although Bill can probably answer the question just by looking at your first pic. I ask because both he and I are using EEC-V with sequential injection and a mass air flow sensor. So our wiring will be slightly different from yours, assuming yours is EEC-IV. Anyway, Bill is running an E4OD in Darth and I'll be running a ZF5 in Big Blue. The EFI 460's have completely different intake and exhaust manifolds from the carb'd engines as the ports in the heads are different. So you'll want to swap everything into your Bullnose. Or, you can convert the '97 to Bullnose fenders and bed, but leave the interior with the later dash. It'll look like a Bull, but will take less effort.

And, our resident "finder", David, has found the 1983 Engine book from the FSM, so I'll have it in a few days and will scan the 3.8L section in and we will have a complete Engine section on the website. Thanks, David!

Amen, brother! This one from Amazon is a 3/8" so may be too big. Check the line size to see, but a 5/16" may be the right size, and I think this one is 5/16".

Actually, I take that back. That's from the 1981 FSM. That's 'cause the '81 has all three Windsor engines and the '85 doesn't.

Glad you pointed out that it is a single unit. In actuality it isn't part number E0TZ 15A245-B. Instead, it is part of that as that part number is a complete kit containing two lamps and covers: 80/84 F-U100/350 E0TZ 15A245-B Kit — (includes base and spacer)

Ok, the Windsor section from the 1985 factory service manual is now on the website. See the Windsor Instructions tab here: Documentation/Engines/Windsor.

Thanks to Steven/FoxFord83 for sharing this on Facebook. Looks like the FOG has taken over.

Ok, ladies and gentlemen, with the exception of the little 3.8L/232 CI V6, we have all of the sections for the engines that came in the Bullnose trucks: General Engine Service: Provides info that is generic to gasoline-powered engines. 3.8L/232: We have a page, replete with specifications, illustrations, and part numbers, but no FSM instructions since it isn't in any of the FSM's I have. So, if anyone has an '82 or '83 FSM and wants to cut that section out and scan it in, we'd have a complete engine section. (David - please keep your eyes open for just the Engine book from an '82 or '83 FSM set.) 300 Six: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from the 1985 FSM for the 300 Six. Windsor: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from the 1981 FSM for the 255's, 302's, and 351W's. 351M & 400: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from the 1981 FSM for the M-Block engines. 460: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from both the 1985 and 1995 FSM's for the 460's. IDI Diesel: Includes specifications, part numbers, illustrations, and instructions from the 1985 FSM for the IDI. And, I LOVE MY NEW SCANNER!!!!! It took me less than an hour to scan in and OCR 269 pages. Or, to put it another way, I'd cut a section out of my FSM, typically about 50 pages or so, stick them in the scanner, and start cutting out another section. Usually the computer would be done scanning and optically recognizing (OCR'ing) the pages before I got the next section cut out - with a sharp scalpel.

If it was mine I'd rebuild the carb myself with the instructions on here. And I'd put the filter on with Teflon tape on the threads, which is a no-no but works if you ensure there's no tape protruding into the cavity where it can get loose. Outside is fine and you can trim it off. But inside is verboten. Then I'd cut into the fuel line and put a real filter, like one of the plastic see-through ones, ahead of the fuel pump and one behind the fuel pump. Those filters catch far, FAR more than the screw-in filters, which have a screen that might catch sand but not sediment. Then, if that didn't do it I'd replace the tank(s). New tanks are about $100/ea and you'll pay almost that much for just the labor to remove and reinstall one.

Ok guys, I think I understand. Thanks.

Well, not too long ago, you did mention no snow, so far, and hoped for some, this Winter. We got ~2" this morning, and more to come they say. Enough that we canceled church for this evening.

So is this a 4wd conversion?

Jim has a really good point. You'll need a spring compressor to remove the springs and check the fit of the valves. But a spring compressor isn't very expensive. So pull a valve at a time and check for wobble. If fairly tight look at the sealing surface of the valve and the head if there are marks consider lapping them. Your books probably have instructions on how to do that because they are intended for hobbyists.

Well, we're seeing some people pay upwards of $20k for trucks like this, so right now the market dictates (imho) that is where the ceiling is...but like anything else, it is a moving target. I watch this stuff all the time, and it's kinda funny how the prices are. It is crystal clear that in order to get the big bucks for a truck, they need to be kept as original as possible. Aftermarket items that are easy to change don't seem to have much effect on price (like wheels), but when the modifications get into non-factory paint jobs and other items, the prices drop fast. Tasteful and functional modifications are worth big bucks, but to a limited market. Anybody can buy an all original truck just because he wants a classic and he can afford it. A nice little 1980 F100 popped up for sale locally this week, and the damn thing is purple!! PURPLE! Funny, if it was red, or blue, or black, it would instantly double in price. Yes, it is the survivors that are bringing the money. You can see that in the price that Big Blackie brought vs what these beasts are bringing in. BB was quite the truck and would have been my pick for use.

Lots of good stuff there, but a long way from me.

I thought that was the only way to order a dually 4x4, no? Oh! I missed that. Yes, I think you are right.

That is a beast! Another C6/4.10/460 combo though, so MPG shouldn't be mentioned in the same sentence - especially with the DRW's. Dunno about the cab & chassis. Why do you say that? The rear fenders?