FuzzFace2

With any parts you get today it is 50/50 if you get a good one or not. As for the module, if it dose go bad you can get a GM replacement at any auto parts store maybe easier than a Ford DSII module as there were a lot more GM's using it than Ford's using DSII Some say you may not need to use a relay to power the HEI. Think there is a blue / white wire to the square coil that you can use to power the HEI. Dave ----

If the 80/90 bottle said for limited slip then you may not need the extra bottle as it should already be in the oil. Dave ----

As Jim said the 2 wire plug you pictured is for the EFI NOT the gauge. The temp gauge is a single wire 90* rubber push on plug and as a guess is in the intake manifold. Most of the time to the left (when in drivers seat) front top corner but could be wrong as you have EFI where do they put the temp sender? Dave ----

I changed the cap & rotor this morning. Again they did not look bad and even in sun light I only saw a little color of what looked like dry oil on the #4 plug tower. It was hard and did not wipe off but other wise looked good. Let the truck warm up good before making a trash run of maybe 10 miles. I can not tell if the miss is still there or I am just thinking I feel it? I am going to hold off on the pick up coil and put some miles on it then pull the plugs to see what they look like. I have a Dr apt tomorrow, 10 miles each way? Car show Saturday maybe 30 miles each way? Plan on using the truck to / from work for the week just under 400 miles. Dont think I have a show for that Saturday but have a cruise in that I need to pull the club trailer to 40 miles round trip. That should be enough miles on the plugs and pulling the trailer that really started this bucking to show if something is not good. ​​​​​​​Thanks for every one's help Dave ----

Good to hear the Paxlovid worked for you. The wife told me to ask about Paxlovid and being we always listen to ours wives I did. The Dr said I cant take it because of the 2 meds I am on for the rest of my life, so no need to ask again. The wife could not take it this time because of the meds she is on from the procedure. Dave ---- Do you think the #4 plug fouling could be from the PCV? It goes to a vacuum tree in the intake under and to the rear of the carb across from #4. You can see the tree here I had a milk shake issue when first on the road but dont now. I dont remember doing anything to fix that other than make sure the PCV had vacuum to it. Yes it has a 195* stat and when I drive it it is 80 miles round trip to work & back and when 90*+ out should get up to temp to boil out any water. So you think the PCV was the cause? Dave ----

Nice job but I think you are over thinking this, it's a truck not a Cady I dont remember what shape mine was in when I put it back together and I dont remember any air leaks from that area. I dont think there is a seal between the tube and clamp from what I remember? Also if installing a rug it would cover that area and also stop any air leaks. Dave ----

I dont see why you could not remove it and do front to front and rear to rear like was said/ As for giving you a warning there is an issue with the system I know when the pedal goes to the floor, and it will way before the light comes on, is enough warning for me there is a problem. That is why they call it an idiot light! As for sealing 1 side of the system from the other the proportioning valve dose not do that it is the way it is plumbed. If you are worried about the proportioning valve part they make adjustable ones you can install. They use them all the time in racing and can and have been used on the street. Dave ----

Welcome to the forum I am 30 min east of Raleigh. It sounds like a pretty cool project and will be following. Dave ----

Good to hear the Paxlovid worked for you. The wife told me to ask about Paxlovid and being we always listen to ours wives I did. The Dr said I cant take it because of the 2 meds I am on for the rest of my life, so no need to ask again. The wife could not take it this time because of the meds she is on from the procedure. Dave ----

I have not given up on this. When I was doing the other work I was taking care of my wife who week ago Mon went for a medical procedure for Afib then got Covid Wed. between the 2 that really knocked her out. Well Fri before bed I was not feeling good so Sat. morning I was at Urgent Care. Tested neg. for Covid but could be to early, it was as I tested pos. with a home test and it knocked me out. I do have the cap / rotor and pickup coil for the dist. just need to feel a little better before I swap each one out and fingers crossed no more little miss under light load. Dave ----

To see if the pulleys are in line with each other use a straight edge but they can be hard to get into the area to check so you can use a string. Make sure it is long enough to reach the outer edge of each pulley. Hold the string to the outer side of 1 pulley and run it across the face of that pulley to the next one doing the same, across the face to the outter side of the pulley. The string should hit the face of both pulleys at the same time. Sometimes you will find the pulley is cocked so it may hit 1 side of the face and be flat across the next pulley. Or it could be flat on both but set back or forward from each other, if that makes sense? I find string works pretty good for this checking. But I found a tool that you set in the V groove and it dose the same thing to make sure they are lined up. I have yet to use it as I fixed the issue I was having before I got it. I got it thru Hog Slat a store for live stock equipment. Dave ----

Yea I have not heard of any good swap meets. Dose Google came up with anything close by? There was something at 1 of the shows not long ago but from what I remember I did not see much of anything shown when walking around but also was not looking either. As for stopping by after work, hours have been crazy or home with the wife taking care of her. Weekends been going to shows with the car club or yard work I been putting off for way to long because of the shows LOL Dave ----

I got to thinking if doing plugs & wires, I broke one wire and other felt because of age 8 years but only really used 4, that is also best to pick up a cap & rotor even that the old ones looked good. This way I know from coil, yes coil too, to the plugs are all new for a "tune up". Tomorrow I will change the cap / rotor and see if that changes the miss. My son did the air filter, gas filter and breather not long ago even changed the oil & filter too. Dave ----

Kurt, Have not heard from you much, you and the wife doing good I hope? I am fine wife has hit a ruff patch this week. Went in Monday to wake med for a Afib hart fix and by Tuesday had Covid and a ear infection so been home all week taking care of here. Have you hit any shows up by you this year? I have hit a few so far and there is a show Saturday not far from my house in Garner I would like to got to and the rest of the club is going to Selma for a show. But they are talking 80% rain so dont know what is going on yet. Mount Zion car show Help drive out hunger 15772 NC 50 north Garner, NC no fee but can food or donations welcome 10am till 2pm Johnston Community Church Sat Oct 14, 1st Annual Car Truck & Tractor show $20 entry fee 450 Janie Road, Selma, NC Sunday there is a cars & coffee in Garner that I think the club is going to go to so hope to hit that. Garner Cars & Coffee Sponsored by Full Bloom Roasters Free, Every 3rd Sunday 141 W. Main Street, Garner, NC Dave G ps yes a little scrapping noise from the rings is normal. You never hear that with everything bolted to the motor and you sitting inside the car.

Well I fatten up the carb from high 15's to low 17's to high 14's to low 15's just where I think it should be. I can still feel a miss thru out the truck but at this point I am going to hold off on the pick up coil till I get a good run in like to the next town over on the high way and then back roads home, and see how it dose. I still need to put the adjustment plug back in the carb so it will not leak out gas and install the air filter assy. But it should be good to pull the trailer for the food Hall get together at the end of the month. Dave ----

I guess it could be a small oil leak in to the hole and being burnt? That is why I also swapped plug wires because if that one was weak it may not fire strong enough to burn it off. So I will keep an eye on them 2 plugs and see. As for coolant IIRC it was the 50/50 mix I picked up at HF as it was cheap so cant say if it the "new" type or not LOL Right now I want to fix the miss it has after the plug change as that will change the AFR. Then I will deal with the lean carb or may see about fixing the old one, I found a box of carbs & parts, and put that back on? I will keep this up to date till it is fixed. Dave ---- Lets start with the coil, I have changed out the high tension coil the other day with no change. Cant remember if I did that before or after the plugs? but it is "new" And we all know about new parts but I cant see it a cause at this point in time. BTW I was told to check the voltage to the coil IIRC it was + = 8.75 - 9.5 maybe a little higher ​​​​​​​- = 6.75 - 8.25 The other and only coil I have not done anything with other than buy a replacement is the pickup coil inside the dist. The new one, a Standard Products one, is sitting on the seat of the truck. So I did ALL plug wires. I used a little dielectric grease on the plug end of the wires so hope they come off easier when I have to remove them. The plug wires may have helped a little as I can still feel a little miss at times. I think before I swap out the pickup coil I will try and get the AFR up to a safe area as it is in the 16 to 17 range and that can cause a lean miss and that now can be what I am feeling? Thing is to adjust this they only give you a 1/8" hole to put the regulator screw driver thru and then you got to feel to get it on the screw. I may wind up removing the top of the carb a few times to get this adjusted we will see. Dave ----

I am thinking the tanks and pumps are trashed and locked up and would not even try and run the pumps and push any badness to the hard to get filter assy. and injectors. Dave ----

I dont know how much help I will be but if you know just how much longer the GV is to the driveshaft hook up over what you have now it is easy but you CANNOT guess. That is why it is best to get everything installed other than the shaft and do a measurement. When you do the measurement the truck or car has to have weight on the suspension. I then measure from where the Ujoint cap sits at both ends and let the shop, I have the shaft made, figure out then what to take off to put the measurement in the center of each cap. Now do know if the trans or the GV uses a slip output yoke you push this in all the way and pull it out 1 inch then do your measurement. This will give you 1 inch of movement in and should still have enough splines engauged. Also note if a shop is going to make a new one check with them on how to measure but the shop I used up north for many a drive shaft that is how they wanted you to do it. I used the same way when I installed the Advance Adapter over drive unit, told them how I did it, down here in NC and it came out good. I say document as much as you can as it is always good to have more than less information. Did you get a new GV unit or used? If new why did you have to get install info from GV? Dave ----

I think they were fairly short lived. Introduced in 1983, but I'm not sure when they stopped making them. I have only ever seen the one in person, and I'm pretty sure it was an '87-'91 Ford. I used to see that truck around in the mid to later 1990's, but haven't seen it or another one in 25 years. Going by all of the comments on IG and FB, there are still a few of them scattered around the US, but of all the comments I read, they're all just trucks that are parked collecting dust. None of them are still working. I seem to recall that there were a lot of problems with them, from local reports at least. Something about being hard on driveline items like U-joints, and driveshafts. I dunno...that's going by very old memory now. I can see them being problematic up here where frames can rust and fail in as little as a decade. When the manf. says no cutting or welding on the frame I wonder how well that went over with the flatbed people? Having a frame break in the middle cant be all that strong Dave ----

I have a buddy and his wife that got back from Eastern Canada, Main and islands up that way a few weeks ago with Covid also. Knocked them both out pretty good. Think I will stay home thank you vary much Gary take care of your self Dave ----

X2 with Jim there is no way that could have worked right. Dave ----

And that is what you have, 2 connections. The other 2 I believe should have a breather cap to let in fresh air. As long as the 2 hoses go to where the sticker shows you should be ok in my book. Dave ----

I guess it could be a small oil leak in to the hole and being burnt? That is why I also swapped plug wires because if that one was weak it may not fire strong enough to burn it off. So I will keep an eye on them 2 plugs and see. As for coolant IIRC it was the 50/50 mix I picked up at HF as it was cheap so cant say if it the "new" type or not LOL Right now I want to fix the miss it has after the plug change as that will change the AFR. Then I will deal with the lean carb or may see about fixing the old one, I found a box of carbs & parts, and put that back on? I will keep this up to date till it is fixed. Dave ----

I might do that but I can still feel a miss it just is not bucking like it was before. I can also feel it when the AFR is in the 13's when first taking off from a stop like a little old lady. I think I got to fix the miss first as that has to be throwing off the AFR then deal with the carb. I forgot I got a box of Carter YFA carbs & parts so I might be able to get the needle & jet from that supply and pop it into my old carb as I know there was something missing on the needle assy. but the carb ran good so never worried about it. If I get out some what early tomorrow I will stop in Raleigh to pick up the pick up coil as that was the only place that had it in stock. I also made a small screw driver that fits the hole of this new carb but I cant tell if I am hitting the screw and turning it so I try, ride, try, ride and repeat as it has not changed much so I am done for today. Dave ----

I think I fixed 1 thing but caused another in trying to fix the bucking. Here is my take: Yes I did try a used DSII box, no change, everything else is in good shape. Changed out the coil, no change. Swapped plug wires from bad plug with another plug and will keep an eye on the 2 plugs to see if the wire was the cause or ???? FYI I pulled the metal plug end out of the good wire when I did the swap so the wires will be replaced at some point. In trying to fix the bucking I installed a Ebay carb I have had for a year or so. It runs a lot leaner than the old carb and this may be the cause I have now that is more of a miss than bucking like before. When I changed the plugs this stopped the bucking but now feel a miss just about all the time when driving. Being the AFR is running in the mid 15's to mid 16.s and some times I have seen 17's I think I am feeling a lean miss. I want to richen up the needle and jet to see if that helps the miss. If not I will pick up a pick up coil and change it out. I had seen it posted some where a bed coil was causing a PITA and once out of the dist. he found a crack in the unit. Still trying to fix this. Dave ----