FuzzFace2

As said you should have mechanical linkage and can be adjusted. But before you do any adjusting check the linkage over really good. If you look at what Gary posted there should be bushings as part of the linkage. 2 big bushings are at either end of the cross shaft or Z bar that goes between the frame and motor / trans. This can have a big effect on how the clutch works. Then check where the rod that goes from the pedal arm under the dash, through the floor and connects to the cross shaft. Again there should be thin bushings but more important that the rod & holes are still round and not egg shape. Almost fixed Other than the cross shaft thatI installed new bushings I mde the rest with out themand keep an eye for wear. Dave ----

I am going to guess that would be the rear axle vent line. I think if you were to turn the hose around you will find it will fit the vent nipple on the axle. If you look where the brake line down the frame and connects to the rubber hose to the axle there should be a nipple holding the other end of the hose to the axle and the 2 metal lines going to the wheels. The hose fits on to the nipple and the hose goes up high like the clip on the frame. You may want to pull the nipple to make sure it is clear and put it back in place, fit a rubber hose to it and fit a cheap fuel filter to the end. This will keep bugs & dirt out of the hose & axle. Dave ----

I took the best parts I had and they needed a little repair work to use them. I also painted mine with a dark argent metallic and like the way they came out. Dave ----

Where are you as to ship something that big & heavy would be some $$$ Dave ----

Its hard to tell but that fang looks to be the fender that hangs down below the bed side & rear sill. What will the bumper be made of? In the pictures it looks to be more like a fancy rear roll pan. Only thing with tucking the bumper up close to the body is it will not protect the body. Its your truck so you build it your way and thats good. Dave ----

I followed the vent line from the fuel tank and it goes to that plastic canister. I guess the only reason I would leave it is I don't want to smell petrol fumes every time I walk by the truck. The fumes will go to that canister and then get eaten by the engine when it is running I think. That is why mine is still hooked up. Now for the vapor being eaten is the rest of the bowl vent line in place and if so is there a electric valve that tells when they get eaten? I ask because so truck use the electric valve and others dont. If you have a "dont" you are in good shape. Mine was missing some parts so I hooked it up to the top port on the PVC but this caused a vacuum leak because it was pulling to much vacuum. My fix was to use the smallest Holley carb jet I had to restrict the vacuum but think it was still to big. Because my MPG is poor I disconnected the vacuum and plugged as a test to see if it was pulling vapor from the tanks. I have not hooked it back up and it was not the reason for the poor MPG Dave ----

My ears were ringing about vacuum can & fiber glass I was chasing a vacuum leak and came across the can was the cause. I found the can had a bunch of rust pin holes. Because of my work hours I never had time to hit junk yards but had the fiber glass rosin and the time to do a quick fix. I pulled the can out of the truck, pulled the mounting bracket off the can this way I was left with just the can.Mixed up some rosin and coated the can, let it set up and gave it a 2nd coat. When the rosin was dry I painted in black and put the mounting bracket back on and installed in truck. The can is used to supply vacuum to the HVAC system when the motor is under a heavy load.\ There is a check valve in the supply to the can so the motor will not use the vacuum from the can. My check valve did not work and the 2 new ones also did not work so when the motor is under a heavy load the HVAC door swings to defrost. On the bowl vent fitting pull it out of the hose, stick it back in the carb and try to tap in it and see if itwill stay. If not I would clean the carb & fitting and use a little JB Weld and glue it back in. That should hold it in place. Dave ----

Is it the rear sill with out bumper in place that looks like fangs? Dave ----

I was off last week, DMV put my lic. on hold because of my medical card, so 1 day I cut the grass (3 hr). Next day pressure washed the house (I was sore after that holding my arms above my head). 3rd day I edged the long walk to the front door from drive way, the long drive way with the large parking area by the house and the rear patio. I took 2 trailer loads, Garden tractor & trailer, to the back 40 so that was a lot of edging and loading into the trailer. Yes was sore again. So after the wash & wax I was sore and DONE! Son wanted my to hang as he was going to work on his car. Told him sorry going in house to die LOL Almost happy to go back to work as I dont work that hard:nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig: Dave ----

Yesterday after the trash run I washed the truck and waxed it for the first time since paint in Oct of 2019. I did the wash / wax for a show next weekend and will not have time during the week with work, it took 7+ hours to do. Also the shift knob when my son drove he would pull if off. It is has splines and pushes on (NP435) and a PO pulled it off and really messed it up. It looked like someone filled it with something and pushed it back on but did not stay. I looked for a thread on knob with the right pattern but they were all 1/2" threads and the shaft was 5/8" and no easy way to turn it down and the stick was not coming out to do so. I was able to run a 9/16" NF die down the shaft and being the knob was kind of messed up I filled it with JB Weld and let it sit over night. To hold the JBW from running out cracks I had to run masking tape around the area as a forum I was going to fill. I did this after it was running down the knob LOL and made a big mess. Today with it hard I drilled a small hole down through the center and screwed in a screw with the head ground off so I could chuck it up in the drill press. A poor man's lath spin the knob and I used different grit sand paper to get it back in to shape. Drilled it out and taped it 9/16" NF and threads on the stick. A little paint, used RTV black to glue the pattern back in, it was loose and rattled, and its good as new and I can un-screw it when needed. Dave ----

Would you let in AMC's like they do at shows & drags Dave ----

That was my house in CT, less then a 1/4 acre of land, yes houses were pretty close together, no HOA. Here in NC I have 3.8 acres non HOA. When my son got his Jeep running after sitting for 6+ years he drove it around the yard LOL It was the only level place I had to set up the pool as the yard was pitched and I was not going to "level" for the pool. There is nothing but water and washing soda and when done just dump it on the lawn as it only has iron from the rust removed, did not hurt the grass. All the leaves is from a big storm we had come through. https://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp As for the left over 2x4's I used brackets from https://www.2x4basics.com/ added 2 more 2x4's and made 2 benches that the backs turned up and pushed together made a picnic table we used on the deck. The 4x4 used in the corners I drilled a hole in each end the 4 of them and with left over re-bar as up rights. I made a grid out of re-bar that was on the bottom of the pool that a lead was hooked to, They were then placed close to the door into the house and they were used to stack & hold fire wood for the fire place. The wood was kept up off the deck by the 4x4's so no issues with rot of wood or deck. As for the wife she did freak a little when I came home with all the 2x4's and even still after I told her what I was going to do with them when done. It was not till I had the 2 benches built and put together as the table she cooled off a little. She was happy the first time we used them for a cook out. Dave ----

I did give that a thought and would have made the job a lot easier but after all that time wash & wax, not having a bolt of that size that I know of and then the need to find what I could use to release was just too much LOL Dave ----

Little bigger that the kiddie pool Fender & bumper brackets I did 2 other fenders and 2 hoods in the pool. Dave ----

problem I have myself with the lack of components. Holley strongly stresses to not run their EFI with emission systems. Well if I just simply gutted the emission systems off the vacuum hose routing is showing a ton more vacuum hoses than will actually be there. Will also be showing an air pump that doesnt exist either as I will be removing it. That is unless I could modify a air compressor to mount there but I doubt the single V belt from the alternator to it would be capable of building any kind of air pressure. I may or may not have a cat how ever, I am still looking at Y pipes, 5 months and no reply back about the Bassani Y pipe and if I need adapters that will create another leak point or not to connect to my headers. Im seriously looking at just getting a OE replacement style Y pipe with converter and then maybe keeping the converter or cutting the converter off if its far enough back and straight pipe it. If I do this I would have to get a 2 1/2" to 2 1/2" butt joint band clamp as all the clamps I have currently are for lap joints. When I cut the converter off years ago after a tire blow out in the rear broke the welds on the tail pipe and at the converter for some reason I decided to chop off the aftermarket replacement converter and straight pipe it without a tail pipe. With the air pump still hooked up if you let up off the throttle after you hold the throttle floored to around 3,500 rpm the air in the exhaust will combust in a loud backfire like a rifle shot. I wont even be able to use it if I wanted to as my AFR Renegade heads have no air injection ports nor do I have exhaust cross overs in the heads so I cant run a functional EGR valve nor can I inject air into the exhaust unless I do the air injection at the converter which I wouldnt do. Did my first Karate lesson on the truck - WAX ON WAX OFF I can say the next lesson will not happen any time soon! It's the first wax since it was painted back in Oct of 2019. Between washing and waxing it was a 7 hour day and I am beat! It does look pretty good, sorry did not get a picture, when done I moved from my garage to the house garage where I keep it when I dont use it. The other reason not waxed anytime soon is you go over every inch of the truck and can see where I did not do the best job I could have and chips all over, even on the rear of the tail gate! Well I did build it to drive & use not as a show truck. I did the trash with it before the wash & wax this morning and a Chevy guy came over to check out the truck. He had a 86 PU that looked to be in pretty good shape for its age. Little rust hole in 1 fender and a dent he fixed but did not paint, inside was clean. Last thing I did to the truck was the shift knob was not on to good. When my son drove it he would pull up and the knob would come off. It is one of them splined pressed on jobs (NP435). I look into buying one with the right shift pattern but they fit a 1/2" thread size and I had no good way to turn the shaft down to be able to thread it for 1/2" with out removing the shaft and that was not going to happen. I would have needed to pull the seat and then the carpet so see why it was not coming out. I was able to thread it for 9/16", no knobs of that size So I figured I would fill the knob I have now with JB Weld and when it sets up drill & tap for the 9/16" thread I did on the shaft. Cant be any worst than what I started with. Dave ----

When I did electrolysis I did it big, made a pool 6'x6'x3' deep to do the hood & fenders of my Javelin. For nuts & bolts I soaked them in something like "rust be gone" I got through 1 of the parts stores. I did use the acid on the frame and the body on the heavy pitted rust with a spray bottle before painting frame and doing body work. Dave ----

I would say the same, TFI going bad. It is a little gray box on the side of the dist. with all the wires going into it. Dave ----

I like that, the LMC ones dont hold the door out enough and it is starting to mark the body behind the door. I dont think the door sits to low that it is not even with the body but?? Fuel line job looks nice Dave ----

I remembered to measure my old line today. It was 7ft overall length. Does that match yours? I was not clear on your method of measurement. I just put a tape measure next to it as pictured below. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96340/PXL_20210506_214748343.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96340/PXL_20210506_214740615.jpg Yes that is how I got the 7' and if the metal line was straight, no bends, it would be 8'. Is your truck a long bed or short bed? IIRC the long bed tanks fit under the cab more but think the sender / fuel outlet would be back a little more on a long bed truck? Then again its been years since I did the fuel lines / tank install. Dave ----

Not as good as 2.74 and over drive But better than 3.73 Is that on the Bronco and is it the front or rear axle? Some front axle have a different ratio than the rear. Dave ----

I dont know that sounds like it could be a cracked flexplate. Ive seen them make come and go making noise. Ive also seen them make different noises. Hard to tell to be honest about the only way Ive been able to isolate is to try and lightly load the engine in gear to try and take the flex/slack out. I am kind of with Rusty as it could be a cracked flex plate. When you changed out the flex because of bad teeth were the pins in the motor to bell housing? If they are missing that can cause the flex plate to crack. May want to check the converter bolts if tight. I had them come loose, factory installed on a diesel, and it showed up sounding like a rod knock! After freaking out and seeing the oil PSI was still good I started looking else where. If the bolts are just starting to loosen might make a noise. Dave ----

As they say it looks good from my house If it was not for the hose end I would not be able to tell the 2 apart You done good You know that shinny new line makes the motor look dirty Dave ----

Combination for the whole engine or just the aircleaner? My original aircleaner was bare aluminum, the NOS unit I got which was a reboxed unit and didnt match the NOS box and part number but it is a bare base with a black painted lid. I am going to try and fix my original aircleaner to reuse till I can figure something else out but leaning towards painting it a bare aluminum engine color. Engine itself I am going dark ford corporate blue, engine was originally blue and I plan to stick with that. Going to paint even the aluminum intake and heads to blend it all in and I got the Proform slant roof Ford Racing valve covers in Dark corporate blue to match. Part of me thought of doing the intake in a aluminum color but I dont think that would look that good for a OE look that I am going for. Ford how ever did use some interesting color combinations but by time the 80s came around it was pretty much one color for everything on the engine proper. But before the 70s they had different color combos and in the 50s ford used the different color combos to denote engine displacement as well as engine application ie truck/car/thunderbird. I dont like the gray so went with the blueon my 300 six Its in my 81 candy apple red & white flare side truck Dave ----

I had a motor plate, goes between motor & trans., do the same thing. The shipper put it between 2 cardboard sheets with 1 layer of tape on the sides. Well that plate cut right through the tape and I also got a empty cardboard container! In my case the shipper made good. Good luck Dave ----

1) On the EGR I find it is easier to just plug the openings. Unless the EGR leaks you can just remove and plug the vacuum line. If the metal tube is in place and not leaking just leave it. If it is leaking if you can get the adaptors out pipe plugs should screw in. 2) Yes you can remove the old coil. As for the rest of the wiring I would wait till the motor is running and can drive it to know all is ok. If you want to run the motor before you get the relay run a jumper wire from the battery + to the HEI and if all is good when you crank the motor it should start & run. To stop just remove the wire. Again once running then you can take your time, trace the wires and remove them. Yes even all them relays on the back of the valve cover you have marked. Dave ----