FuzzFace2

I had the early (81)door glass and later (87>) vent frames so for 1 they would not work with the door glass I had. 2 the later vent frames were longer. Besides being wider, and I could not get they in my early doors. I will post pictures of them when I get home Thursday. The other thing was the early vent window seal did fit 100% in the later frame but think it would have worked if I had to use it. The early rubber fit the early frames like a glove. Dave. ----

Sorry just seen this and I am away for a few days will try when I get back home. Dave ----

It did have that "note" you need to call the number listed with your VIN to make sure it would fit. I wonder if that is why it does not show in the basket? I think I would call the number and see what they say and if you get the OK to go into AZ to order it. Having yours rebuilt is a vary good option. Keep us posted how you make out. Dave ----

I used a Detroit Locker in my drag car with 9" wide slicks and 4.56 gear and love it at the strip, never had the car on the road so cant say how it is there. I figured if it did not work out for the track I would use it in my street car. I also have a Lock Right locker in a 92" wheel base factory v8 car and as Bill pointed out can be fun once you know what it will do in turns. In the rain you had to be on your game as it would go sideways even from a stop with out even trying and it has a 2.89 rear gear. Dave ----

If you look at 1 of the pictures I think I see the plug part (blue) of a HEI dist. He could then just unplug the EGR and remove the wiring & computer as I dont see anything else that it runs. Dave ----

I got a Holley 4160 and a Weiand intake for my 351w, it runs great. Here is the carb: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80457sa But I see that Summit no longer carries it. I'm sure they could suggest a substitute. I have an automatic so I needed the kick-down lever, that made this carb ideal for me. If you have a manual, then that's not needed, of course. I had to look at this a few different times to make sure of what I was seeing! I saw the Holley float bowl up front and thought it was a v4 carb but it is not it's a v2 carb Holley 2300. It is half of a v4 carb and takes the same parts to rebuild it and I think they run 100% better than the Motorcraft 2100 carbs that you cant get jets easly for. The Holley 2300 comes in a 350 & 500 cfm sizes. 350 is good on a 6cly the 500 on small v8's up to I would say 360 cid. I got a 500 on a AMC 304 and it ran great when I had the car on the road. I have used the 350 on a Toytoa 238 straight six and also ran great. Son has a 500 on a Jeep 258 and is a little to large. I would pull that carb apart and if the insides and not eaten up from bad gas I would get a rebuild kit for that carb and rebuilt it and run it. Dave ----

It is also important that you use GL-4 gear oil in the trans. When I filled it when I first installed the NP435 the bottle said GL-4 / GL-5 so I was not really happy running it as the GL-5 oil they say eats yellow metal (syncros / bushings) in transmissions so I was happy to swap it out. Took almost a full gallon of the RL MT-90 oil for the trans. Yes the RL MT-90 oil is a GL-4 oil, no GL-5 listed on the bottle. RL oil was what was sent with my Advance Adaptors over drive because of the syncros in it. Dave ----

I think the only difference is the 1980 1 year wonder for the wiring of the plug and if you have lights for the oil & battery?as that wiring might be different also. My 81 had gauges and a member picked me up a tach & flex circuit. Swapped in the tach & flex circuit to my cluster, bolted it all back in place and it worked. I would get the right paint for the needles polish the clear part and bolt that cluster in to your truck. The only thing that "I" might look into is the mileage part if I can get that to read the same as what I pulled out. On mine I did not because I forgot what cluster came out of what truck once I had the clear part off (it had paint on it from a PO), the speedo did not work in my truck I did not know how much mileage it really had so did not really care on what it showed. Good luck on the install. Dave ----

Vary nice looking truck I did the same "little bump here and there" as mine was built as a nice looking driver and to use. That reminds me time to load up the trash for its weekly dump run LOL Again nice looking truck, enjoy Dave ----

Yes nice looking truck and a good base to start with, not all rotted and banged up! As for the notchy shifting trans being a granny and 460 that would be a T19 right? My 81 F100 came with a T18, needed a rebuild, so I replaced it with a NP435 both granny transmissions. They were both notchy in shifting as they are a true truck transmission, no speed shifting with them! What I did find helped a lot in the NP435 was to drain the fresh W75-80 gear oil and fill it with Red Line MT-90 gear oil. It took a little bit for it to work into everything and push out the normal gear oil but it shifts a lot easier and even more so once there is a little heat in the trans. What I like of the slow shifting transmissions is it makes you take your time (no speed shifting) so you get to enjoy the drive. Dave ----

Good to hear you are on the mend even if you are feeling not the best after this last round. You know what they say ..... it could be worst Hope you feel better soon Dave ----

You say "sniper" can tell you things what does it have to say just before it stops running? When hard to start is it getting fuel to the injector(s)? Dose it have spark as that would tell you where you need to look? It would be nice to know the cause before throwing parts at it. Dave ----

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-power-booster?filterByKeyWord=brake+booster&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false Notes: W/o master cylinder, ***Please call MPA 800-228-9672 with your VIN number to verify the correct Brake Booster that fits your vehicle***. With vacuum booster So what is the issue you have? That was the first try with AZ have not tried any others. You can also Google for a re-builder to have yours rebuilt. Old car guys have to have this done all the time. That reminds me I need to look into getting my AMC Javelin one rebuilt. Google search turned up this site for parts and rebuild service https://harmonclassicbrakes.com/ They even have a listing for my Javelin Dave ----

FYI Yes only the 300 with AC (and maybe HD cooling?) use a shroud and larger radiator. No it is not a straight swap as the radiator support has a bigger opening on the AC trucks. When swithcing mine from non-AC to AC I had to use the radiator support from the AC parts truck as it has a bigger opening. Now I dont know if you can cut the opening bigger or not and if the holes / nuts are in place for the hold down brackets. IIRC there are 2 different types of radiator hold downs also, early & late. I think the early supports have the needed holes & nuts to use the bigger radiator. Dave ----

I'm gonna do the same thing you did Dave just to be safe. I am pretty sure the difference between them is the rod and I dont know if they can be swapped but would say no. Because both the master, peddle would sink with foot on it, and booster, vacuum leak when peddle was pushed also, I replaced them both at the same time. Think I went through Auto zone as they were just down the road and I wanted it ASAP as I wanted to take the truck to the company car / truck show. At first the only thing I did not like was the brake paddle was lower that I like it. No it would not pump up so no air in lines and the rear shoes were adjusted right. I did try and adjust the rod between the master and booster but that really did not do anything. You have to be careful if you adjust this rod as it can apply the brakes even with the paddle up all the way. I have gotten use to it and dont even think about it now. I dont know if the peddle was low like this in the parts truck as I never drove it, no motor, doors and roof was caved in from a roll over. The truck gave up a lot to get my truck rebuilt the way it is today. Dave ----

After I installed the over drive unit mine did the same thing and it was good before that. Thing was the OD unit pushed the trans back and pulled the cable a little tighter. I replaced the cable with a little longer one and it was good, no bouncing but .......... A week ago I pulled the gauge cluster to fix some lights that stopped working and found the speedo was not on the cluster all the way. When putting everything back together I found the the inner cable was too long so you could not get the upper part on the cluster. Because of how the inner cable is made you cant make it shorter at the cluster so I made it shorter at the trans gear end. Well it now bounces at 30 MPH or lower but is ok above that. I dont know if I have to trim a little more of the inner cable or if the whole cable is making a tight turn some where? I have not been that worried about it at this time to look into it. Dave ----

I am going to go out on a limb here and say the difference between the power / non-power masters is the rod. The power master dose not have the rod on it as it is in the booster. The non-power would have the rod in it that goes through the firewall to the peddle. Now can you pull the rod out of the non-power master and use it is the $98 question? I swapped the whole unit as they were working (so I thought) on the parts truck so they should work on my truck without any issues. Dave ----

Yea if he has an 81 like in his sig then he could do what I did, get a power peddle assy., booster & master. I did have to replace the booster & master as they were bad and think that is why the parts truck rolled on its roof. Dave ----

Dave is in the house Ok I did the swap from non-power to power on my 81 F100 using parts from a 81 F100. Before I did the swap and as Jim pointed out the I found the masters had the same bore dia. I also found in the search that the rear wheel cyl were the same dia. but the drum & shoe sizes were different, cant remember what one was the larger, maybe the non-power? I also found in the search that the calipers had the same piston dia. Also as pointed out the calipers, pads, rotors, spindles, beams will not interchange. So all I did was take the power brake pedal assy, booster & master from the power brake truck and bolted it into my non-power brake truck. Hope this answers some questions for the 100/150 trucks Dave ----

It is also longer and could not get them to I stall. I don't remember just why now but I could not use them. I also have pictures of the differences on my web site. Dave. ----

I am here. Note when I did my gasket(s) I did it years ago so its a little foggy. First are you sure that gasket set is for your motor and was the box open when you got it? Does the other rubber part fit the front? Could you have them switched around? My motor was out of the truck and mounted on a stand and dont remember any issues installing it. I get things like that at a local parts store. Sorry I dont have any other information to pass on but it sounds like its the wrong gasket kit. Dave ---- ps I also used the 4 part gasket as I did not know of the other type.

In a pinch some seat belt buckles can be used to do the same thing Some times you just need to sit back and admire the truck Dave ----

Yep but my Tee has wires coming out that I wired into the trailer connection. That only dose the lights not the trailer brake wire or a battery charge wire so I had to run them down the frame rail to the connection. I just followed the rail harness down the frame. It was when I ran the wires that I shorted out the dual tank switch valve wire and wondered why the fuel gauge was not moving on the front tank? It was using gas from the rear but reading the level on the front Dave ----

Welcome, So what have you done to the truck so far? Can you take a picture or 2 of the carb with the filter removed as we need to see the carb and the line you said was rusted off. Also need a picture of the dist. does it have a vacuum can or just wires going to it? I ask because after think 83 in the USA they went with a feed back system. A computer controls the carb a little and the timing. If any of the censors are not working the computer goes into limp mode and can run poorly and gets bad MPG. Because there is a computer you can pull codes to see what it has to say its looking for and not finding. Thing is you cant get some of the censors if bad or missing but dont worry we can fix this. One of the first things to do is look over all the vacuum lines to make sure none are just sucking air causing a vacuum leak. Also on the rear of the intake manifold there is a vacuum tree with a few hoses & caps. 1 cap / port is really hard to see and is known to cause issues. Plug and you find openand if you can see where it may go maybe run a new hose to it. There should be a vacuum line sticker on the radiator support you can follow to see if the vacuum lines are run right. I dont remember how long the truck has been sitting but check the gas and it is does not smell like gas it has gone bad and will need to be drained, tank checked for sludge / rust and be cleaned or replaced. If you want to run the motor before doing the tank get a small gas can set it on the inner fender and a long hose to the inlet to the fuel pump. I ran my truck like this for years when rebuilding andneeded to move it. We can help! Dave ----

The 1 gallon is more economical which I prefer because I am cheap. I will try to modify the pump so it reaches the bottom and secure the hose so it won't pop off. But I could see how the squeeze bottle would be easier if the truck is on the lift. On the ground you can pump with one hand as it sits next to it. Does anyone know of a good powered pump that could use to move oil for future use? I got a fuel pump, not sure if it will work with oil or not. Because there is no easy way to drain the rear oil I have not done so. I guess I should check it as I have not done that either I used the same pump to fill the NP435 trans but I used Red Line MT-90 oil and it is a little lighter weight so not bad to pump. Like you I found with the gallon jug on the floor you could pump with 1 hand. I also found it would not pump from the bottom of the jug but the trans was full before I needed the last bit. I had 2 empty RL oil MT-90 qt bottles so put the rest in 1 of them. Now if I needed that last bit I would have put it in the qt bottle and pumped from it. Or added a hose to the tube to reach the bottom of the gallon jug. Dave ----