FuzzFace2

The dash looks good. Depending where the crack is and the other is broken you can use fiber glass rosin to fit it. The PO of my parts truck broke the dash frame to remove the radio & HVAC control. I needed that dash because of the AC ad I was swapping over the parts to mine for AC. I took the missing part from my non-AC dash and using fiber glass rosin I grafted it on the AC dash/ Add a little paint and cant tell it was ever broken. Dave ----

That second shot put the wife & I under the weather for a few hours but nothing like I hear some have had. I dont think I have seen a horn mounted where yours is, do you have another mounted somewhere else? Little by little and before you know it you will be driving it. Keep up the good work ...... after the other put off projects LOL Dave ----

Sorry I did not up date. The system still has pressure because after I had the plug for the PSI switch jumped out checking for power at the compressor plug and then checking the ground side of the harness I plugged the PSI switch back in and had power at the compressor plug. So power in & out of the PSI switch (system charged) all the way to the compressor and the ground from compressor back is good also. So I cant see anything else but a bad coil to keep th the AC from working. Dave ----

Good combo as my truck has the same motor & transmission but is only a 4x2. Being you have a 85 it would have a feed back carb & dist, system unless someone has swapped it over to non-feed back, not hard to do. Also I believe your transmission would be a NP435 as I think thats what went in the later trucks. The early ones got the BW T18, that what my truck had but was bad so swapped in the NP435. The NP435 has a crazy bent stick T18 is just an off set There is also something about the PTO covers on the side of the trans and the shifter towers but I cant remember what they are ATM. Dave ----

I would say if it is working then I would not pull the master to check but ......... I was having some pedal height issues after a new / rebuilt booster so I checked mine and found the jam nut was not tight and the ball could adjusted its self if I had not found it. Dave ----

That a good looking truck you got there. What motor & transmission dose the truck have? Think you posted the trans was a 4 speed granny first gear or over drive 4th? If you post up a picture of the cert label on the left door jamb we can de-code it what the truck left the factory with, not that still holds true after all the years. Dave ----

I would blow out the dist to get the dust & dirt out. That cap adapter dose come off the dist. and I would wash the inside of it before I put the other new parts on. Dust & Ozone can cause cross firing and why it should stay clean. Dave ----

Inner & outer wheel bearings & seals I would get local this way if there is an issue you can take it right back to get the right ones. There should be numbers on the bearings & the seal and if you take the numbers to the parts store they might be able to cross them over to the new bearing. Dave ----

Oh yes there is And Cory is right there Dave ----

Good to hear it is running again What was the fix or we have not got that far because of the mangled fuel rail? I did see something about pin 17 & 48 but nothing about swapping them around, was that the cause? Dave ----

Guys I looked in to why my AC stopped working the other day and from what I found wiring to / from compressor, through the PSI switch, is good so that leaves only 1 thing bad clutch! I have not looked into this other than posting here but I am sure you can replace just the clutch but ..... Is there any special tools needed and do you have to evac the system? Anything else I should look out for or do when I do this? FYI everything in the system is new other than the compressor & evap coil but all has been working up till a day ago. Thanks for any information you can give. ​​​​​​​Dave ----

Not a blocked jet or it would not run but junk in the needle & seat of the float or bad float. You can try and take a large screw driver and lightly but firmly tap on the carb where the fuel line connects. Then start the motor and do the same as it is running and see if that will help. If it is junk in the needle & seat this may dislodge it and keep it from flooding over. If not then the carb need to be pulled apart and looked over (rebuilt). If you can post up a picture of the carb and any numbers it may have lets see if we can get a rebuild kit for the gaskets & spec settings. Dave ----

So at 19K reserve not met with a BIN of 35K I would say if someone wants it it will be big money! Dave ----

Dave, This one seems to be geared a little better, sort of. The two trucks have the exact same 5spd, but the other truck is a 302 with 3.08 diff, and this one a 300 with 3.55 diff. The 5spd with the 300 and 3.55's is almost perfect, and I'm quite happy with it. The only issue I have with this combo is that 1st gear is a little too low now. It would be great for hauling or towing, but pulling away from a stop 1st is a little too low, and 2nd a little too high. I can pull away in 2nd, but I'd have to ride the clutch a little. At cruising speed, say between 50-65 mph, the 300 with the 5spd and 3.55's is great. It pulls very nice in 3rd, 4th, and 5th. The issue with the 302, 5spd and 3.08 diff is that unless you're doing 70+ mph, it always wants to be below 2000 RPM, and that is where the 302 is a bit on the lazy side. I have to drive a little over 10 miles to get to a highway (or to get to "town"), and that is usually at 50mph, and sometimes a little less. 4th gear feels too low, and 5th is too tall....so I always have to speed up or slow down to get into the sweet spot. With the "new" truck, this is a non issue with the 300 and 3.55 diff. It cruises just fine under 2000 RPM. So the 5spd with 3.08 feels like a highway truck, and the 5spd with the 3.55 feels like a work truck, if that makes any sense. It would almost be ideal to swap engines between the two, haha. That, or a 3.25 diff might be ideal between the two. It dose make sense as the 300 likes to pull in the lower RPM range where the 302 is in the higher RPM range. I dont bring the RPM up over 2000 when shifting as I dont feel the need to it just pulls. I know the 300 is also a 4x4 so a little heavier and different gear ratio than the 302 truck but just wondered being the same transmissions. If you do the 302 / 300 swap I would like to know how the 2 motors do with the different gears. I wish my truck had a little lower gear out back as the 2.75 is a little to high for me starting in 2nd gear and the granny first (NP435) is way to low with out a load. I do like the granny first and over drive split for staring off with out a load but it is hard to get it into 2nd gear from granny. Then I would go to 3rd non OD, 3rd OD, 4th non OD, 4th OD, so a lot of stick moving LOL Most of the time I just split 3rd as the spread between 3rd & 4th is pretty big and pulls the 300 down pretty low if you dont shift at a higher RPM. Thanks for the report Dave ----

Thats what I was thinking, "cant hurt" to pull the lifter, take it apart and if it still will not let oil pass then you have the new ones to throw in the motor. As for pulling the lifter(s) if you are careful not to mar them if going to reuse you can use vise grips and carb cleaner. Vice grip to twist and lift it up and carb cleaner to wash off the stuff that will not let it lift out. Spray and little CC around the lifter and let it work down a little then try and twist & lift. Push it back down and spray and ...... Keep doing it till out. If lucky it was not marked and you can take it apart, clean with CC, little oil going back together and ready to go back in motor. I thought the rockers get tq to spec and that is it, non-adjustable right? You have not changed anything like mill the head or deck the block to change what was there from the factory so no need to change push rods to get them back in spec. Dave ----

Ok it is easy to tell or know what front or side tank you have on your truck. Short bed (6.5 foot long) only uses the 16 gallon tank and no you can not install a 19 gallon tank in its place as it will not fit, I tried Long bed (8 foot long) only used the 19 gallon tank. All rear tanks from the factory were 19 gallons. Style side trucks could have dual tanks, both short & long beds. Flare sides were only short beds and only came with the 16 gallon front tank, no rear tank from the factory. Now for the even easier part you have a 82 F250 truck and unless someone made a custom, all F250 trucks were long beds with a 19 gallon tank. As for other parts replace the rubber fuel & vent line to the tank. I would also replace the roll over valve & rubber grommet as the nipple may break when trying to get the hose off. Dave ----

I would pull that rocker & push rod to make sure the rod is clear.Might also pull the lifter cover just so you know what it looks like in there but if find the rod was clear then maybe pull the lifter and take it apart for cleaning and reinstall and see if that dose anything. I have had the valve, lifter covers off and the oil pan off mine to replace the gaskets when I first got my truck. It looked clean under the valve & lifter areas, pan had a little sludge but I cleaned everything before I put them back on.Now after I got the truck running and on the road the oil would get a little dirtier than I liked between changes so I add a QT of ATF to the oil just before I change it.Dump it in, start the motor and let idle bring up to normal temp and drain.So far it seams to be running cleaner with the 2 changes I have done.I am also running Shell Rotella T4 oil in this last change that should have more cleaners in it than other oils but not so much that if the motor was really dirty would cause issues when bypassing the filter and hurting bearings like a motor flush can do.Dave ----

Haha, ya...it was a bit of a hectic journey that cannot be easily recreated...and nor would I really want it to be, lol. Mind you, if I was wealthy and didn't have to work...maybe I'd spend all of my time doing it, but for now I'm OK. I had the old girl out again last night...Thursday night is our local weekly car show, and I must say I'm quite pleased with the old thing. It shows fairly well for what it is. The truck doesn't have a patina per se, but the 30 year old repaint really shows its age...lots of chips and scratches, and then of course areas where I've touched it up. However, I like it...it kinda makes it look like a survivor truck, rather than one that's been all fixed up. You can see a few different shades of paint on it depending on what angle you're looking at.. Ahh well, they can't all be show trucks, and this one wasn't getting a $10k paint job, not while I own it. Factory radio or old school from that time is good with me Want to ask how it that truck with the 300 motor and the 5sp transmission? I know you said the other truck could use a lower rear gear with the over drive just wonder what its like with the low RPM TQ of the six? Truck dose look good Dave ----

I found this on the other site in the older truck area and thought I would pass it on as we need all the help we can get on this. https://www.militarytrader.com/mv-101/notes-from-the-field-ethanol-vapor-lock-and-other-gas-woes Dave ----

If the oil doesn't work guess you can drill the heads off so the outer part can be removed and get to the ring holding the base on. Then maybe you can vice grips on them to remove? Dave. ----

Will do Thanks Dave ----

It was not meant to put you down but we have a lot of new owners that have never owned a carbed motor and whatneeds to be done, move throttle to set choke, before starting. Good to hear just a little adjustment and it is better. Dave ----

It only happens when under power like pulling out into traffic or pulling a long hill. Maybe I need a bigger or a 2nd juice can for vacuum, other wise it works normal. I also have to re-look at the heater core close off valve as it works by vacuum but cant remember where I tied it into. IIRC my HVAC control is not for a 81 truck, want to say 84 but maybe not? Dave ----

I was just looking that up for when I get into to checking this out and was thinking "what if I had no power to the psi switch where is it coming from? I looked up pictures of the ones I have before install to see where the compressor gets its signal from. It has been a bit since I messed with this and the wires plug into the end of the HVAC control. It is to be cooler this weekend and think I will look into this as far as I can without gauges at this time. The easy part is to see how far the power goes getting to the compressor. The other thing I found strange is if I have the control on "MAX AC" and I am under power the vents change to defrost like loosing vacuum. I do have a new check valve but so is the one in place now and dose not seam to be working? Any way if I have the control on "Normal AC" the vents do not seam to change to defrost? Guess I got a new onion to peel Dave ----

I knew I seen it some where thanks Dave ----