FuzzFace2

I would think they were just the normal pig tail socket that you could get at any local parts store and no L / R sockets. I know I have gotten the 194 sockets / pig tails, side marker lights, at the local stores before. Dave ----

Have welder will travel Id did what my dad told me they did back in the day to make custom bumpers. I welded the bolts on the back side and then filled in the holes on the front side and ground the weld flush. I also then cut the holes for the lights before priming & painting them. I tried to get them wrapped in chrome but 2 shops said no and the 3rd wanted to do brushed SS as they thought the chrome would get scratched when working the bubbles out. They did give me a 4th that did full cars but it was a pain to for me to get in touch with him so I went with paint. I know what I did its not for everyone but it is something any one can do if they wanted to. For you the only way I see to get the bolts is to cut them off. Can use a cut off wheel and being careful not to hit the bumper cut the head off as I dont think you can get the tool in the back side. There is also a tool called a nut splitter. It fits over the nut and has a wedge at the end of a screw and when you tighten the bolt it pushes the wedge into the nut and splits it so you can remove it. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/barn-star-nut-splitter-2-pack-1156486-1358373?cm_mmc=feed-_-GoogleShopping-_-Product-_-1358373&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9_v7zLDx8AIV_h-tBh1SZwCZEAQYASABEgKuWfD_BwE Dave ----

I will get a picture of the tire mount as mine is off the truck, no wheel to use for a spare Went thru my pictures and found this Dave ----

On the bumper bolts I think I had to heat then up red hot for them to come off. I may have also cut 1 or 2 off. As for using them to remount the bumpers I did not and added lights to the front bumper Dave ----

Thanks for the tips. I will try to remember to take everything in landscape the first time. As a hater of vertical video it shouldn't be too hard for me to remember. For my phone I think the volume rocker is on the top. But not sure if it matters on my phone as long as horizontal. Looking good and now you know why we say as part of the brake system check up / rebuild to replace ALL RUBBER HOSES! It also looks like that front rotor is a little thin. I would have changed them out this way you know the front is 100% new. My rotors still had meat on them but I did replace the calipers, pads & hoses up front. Out back everything was new as I found a mess when the drums were pulled, yes the hose was changed out. when I went to bleed my brakes I did not mess with the valve and dont think it made any difference. What did was pressure bleeding as that was theonly way I could get any kind of pedal. Dave ----

Well done It feels good when you work on something and it works out dont it. I know none of my gauges worked, did not try any lights before I pulled everything for the rebuild. So I had nothing to lose if they did not work on first try LOL Dave ----

Yeah I probably should have painted them first but you know how I am. It would delay forever because I take so long to prep and paint. I just wanted to get it done ASAP so I can get it on the road. I will revisit it later and will wash them down for now. But knowing Walmart they would of scratched the hell out of the paint. I don't know if they have to try hard to be incompetent or it just comes naturally. I did pick up some paint and I will practice with the spare. They gave me some new caps when I went back yesterday to get the third tire and the spare. Lots more drama then that but I will save it for its own post. The weights should be on both sides as done on the 4th & spare but if someone does not want to see weights on the front side like alum. wheels then the machine can be set up to do just the rear side of the wheels. If you had a bubble balancer the weight is only placed on 1 side so the rear would be the same. I think my drag slicks are done on the back side, alum. slots. The weights are a stick on type and I used duct tape to help hold them in place. Cant see them from the front side. Dave ----

No answer yet and not in a big rush, trucks been on the road over a year and a half now so another day or 2 will not hurt. Just looking to get it close as I will also check if everything clears before gluing. Thanks Dave ----

So you are saying the black part came out of the silver part on the end on the left? If so thats not good and the cable will need to be replaced. Also the gear on the end of the inner part should have a clip to hold the gear on the inner cable so if that inner came out with the black part it is really going to need replacing. Good luck. Dave ----

I did not know that. I am also not in to bikes but would like to get another someday. Where I load up LP someone puts out a mag for bikers of whats going on and what has been going on here in the state. One of the write ups was on the electric HD bike. The bike looks more sporty than road, like most of their bikes are so wonder how many would trade in their road glide for one? Dave ----

FYI did you know Harley Davidson has a electric motorcycle. https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/motorcycles/livewire.html A bike is a play thing so I can see the bike but a car / truck for anything but short trips I just cant see it at this time. Dave ----

When you do prep & paint use a flat clear or semi flat on it as the sun glare will bounce off onto the glass and make it hard to see when sunny out. Dave ----

100% change the filter for anything but a "orange can of death"! When I had the oil changed on my 02 Dodge from a quick change place a short time later I had the same issue, low oil PSI. When the dealer did the oil change and used a different filter never had that issue. I go with NAPA gold filters on my pick up. Pick up a good filter and 1 qt oil. change the filter and add the oil and you should be ok. Dave ----

From what I have seen posted any of the parts store one will be wrong. I would say if you can cut the new hose and use exh. pipe and hose clamps to make it longer. Other were able to get the right one from here https://www.fillernecksupply.com/ But the last I seen posted they were out but try them any way. BTW i had to use the exh pipe to make a rear fill for my flare side as a rear tank was never an option and I added it to have dual tanks. Dave ----

If you are talking of the plastic inner fender liners then good used is all you will find unless someone post up the part numbers and you find NOS ones. Good luck Dave ----

Nice wish mine was "new" as it has a not so little rip Dave ----

As it said I need measurement for inside mirror button to remount the mirror. If I can et the measurement from the outside chrome from the left & right sides to the center and from the top chrome to center of button. This should get me close to where it needs to be mounted. I have had others mounted in the wrong place from a glass shop and cont not use the visors as they hit the mirror. Thanks Dave ----

Looking good Now that all the BIG STUFF is done and on the road its the little stuff that needs looking in to LOL Dave ----

Smiling I cried a little as the body looked to be in pretty good shape and only needed a motor. Dave ----

I wish, Sergeant does not like to ride in vehicles. But I will try. Dont feel bad my 2 dogs, 75-80 lb each, dont like riding in cars or trucks. When they go for check ups we have to lift them in Fuel system is looking good You know what you get 1 part looking really good it makes the rest look really bad then you got more work to make the bad parts look good Dave ---- I am thinking about trying something like this. When you do let us know how it works. Only thing to think about is if it is applied to the truck and down the road you want to repaint it will it react to auto paint or not? What will be needed to repaint over it? Will it need to be removed first and if so how? For me if that was my truck in the picture of the can I would repaint it back the way it is as thats a pretty color and when done a pretty truck. Then again I can do the paint work my self where others can not. Dave ----

I would look into 3M 2 sided molding tape. Only thing is if you can see through the part you may see the tape as it is black. If that is the case just add it so it will look good when installed. Dave ----

I wish, Sergeant does not like to ride in vehicles. But I will try. Dont feel bad my 2 dogs, 75-80 lb each, dont like riding in cars or trucks. When they go for check ups we have to lift them in Fuel system is looking good You know what you get 1 part looking really good it makes the rest look really bad then you got more work to make the bad parts look good Dave ----

That looks like a 3 port tank switching valve & wire to it. Dose or did this truck have dual tanks? It may have had a 2nd tank in the bed and they run off it till it ran dry and switched to the main tank with the gauge. Dave ----

Only thing I would worry using that wire if you dont use one Gary pointed out, Does it still have power when the key is in the ACC. If so I would not use it as the HEI will be powered up other than when the key is off. Dave ----

I think they took away what the true FJ4x were about - rugged off road trucks! I loved my 73 FJ40 230 L6 motor, 3 on the floor, did have over drive. It would go anywhere you wanted to go just not fast. I did a GM manual steering box swap to tighten up the steering some. Then 4 wheel drums with 2 half wheel cly braking was the worst! I say half because each wheel had 2 cly but only half had a cup to push the shoe out and you adjusted the other side like normal drum brakes. During the winter it was the shop truck and the first summer the top & doors came off to use. 2nd year for summer a full cage to frame went in with some other safety items and went racing off road. After 2 years racing and a few roll overs it would not go down the road to good so was just a race truck at that point. Yep I miss it! Dave ----