FuzzFace2

I would not mind that truck parked in my driveway looks great How was the white stripe done? Was this a tape, after market maybe, was able to find a match for the bed or it was all redone to match? Got a close up of it? What did you do for the bed floor or nothing at this time and it is open? Dave ----

Yes this is some what normal to get the main throttle to close so the idle mix screws will work again but then the idle is to low, so you make a " controlled vacuum leak" on the secondary side. As for the screw you only need to turn it upside down and leak gas all over 1 time. What you do is pull the screw out and install it from the top so all you need to do it open the secondaries so you can get to the screw and make your adjustment. It may take a few tries to get the idle right but once done you should not need to adjust it again for a long time. The only other way I know to make a vacuum leak that is done on Holley carbs is to drill small holes in the main throttle blades. Start out really small and go up in size as needed. Just remember to big and you are screwed! Dave ---- Just a though What if you have a 4 corner idle mix v4 carb can you still do the secondary opening by screw adjustment? If it is open it would be just like on the primary side and open to far no?

Thanks for the updates. Good to hear about the Red Line MT-90 in the NP435 as I want to do the same as I also have issues at times, when cold mostly, down shifting into 3rd and hope the RL will help. On the front winch back in the day there was a rear plate assy. that was hinged to get to the gas filler. My 70 AMC Javelin has one. You could mount it upside down on the front and the plate would protect the opening and hide it then when you needed to mount the winch flip it up and install the winch. My first work truck, big rig, had a plate bracket you could flip up to give a place to put your foot for opening the flip up hood. I guess a hinge bracket thing would do the same thing. Dave ----

Wish I could find things like that in the over head in my garage or even the house! My caddy must be after market as I don't remember any numbers on it and no door, came with my parts truck. I do like it for the extra storage room. I used Velcro to hold it to the back wall. With out it the caddy would rock and bang on the back wall. Using Velcro it holds it tight but if I want to remove it I can but I will have to work hard to rip the Velcro apart LOL Dave ----

WE GOT COLOR! Dave ----

That was 1 reason why I did not go with the GV unit, the $$. I would also say that unit on the back of that T400 is most likely a GV unit as I don't know of any other type OD unit that does. Now the way I figured the $ needed to do any OD swap was to run the numbers for each swap. Now things that would be the same like drive shaft mod I did not count as the coast would be the same and cancel out. Now if you go for a used transmission say ZF5 that I read most likely would need a rebuild or a core if you bought a rebuilt one so this needs to be added into the swap. So look at the trans you want t o run. Dose it have a bad rap on used ones that it needs a rebuild before you install it? So lets say $1500 for a used trans, rebuild $1500 and you are now at $3000 of the GV unit. Then add in a clutch, PP, throw out bearing, maybe adaptors to bolt to motor, clutch pedal / master / slave, trans cross member, floor trans cover, how do you hookup a speedo? and who knows what else? So the GV unit is looking pretty good at this point just for the $$ and it is a bolt in. So do your home work. Just my .02 Dave ----

Yes I have Advance Adaptor Range Splitter over drive unit. What is nice is it can be used in 4x4 mode where the GV can not as it hangs off the rear of the transfer case. You can also split each gear giving you 8 forward and 2 back gears. Only thing is I seen it posted that they may have stopped making them, don't know how true this is so would need to call them. It could be because of the virus they shut down for a bit, I hope, or there just was not a big calling for it and they stopped for good? I know I ordered mine just as the virus hit and it took a long time for them to build and ship mine. Dave ---- ps it did not help or hurt my MPG but did lower the RPM.

Up here that "coating" is passive rust prevention! If I can remember the next time I got the timing light on the truck I will test that retard. If I still lived up north I would see it the same way on the rust LOL Right now it is messing up the cement floor in the garage. I have cardboard down, front to rear of truck, for it to drip on and when it gets to oily I lay down new cardboard. It also makes the pretty outside look bad or is it the pretty outside making the oil leak look worst Dave ----

That's exactly what mine looked like. Where does one get lucky enough to find a factory style filter housing like that? I feel like I've looked everywhere and haven't had any luck. I can't stand that stupid little bolt-on that seems to be the only alternative for the 1bbl carbs. The most common answer is 'junkyards' but there really aren't any within striking distance of RI. It's all suburbia here, not enough space for junkyards. So If I drop in an HEI distributor as suggested, then I can continue to use the YF carb that I have? I'm not worried about smog here. You don't need an inspection to ride with antique plates here if it's only used for "leisure activities" according to the DMV. My neighbor has a 60s Impala with antiques on it and he said there's no enforcement on how much you drive with that type of registration. On the air filter I am a member on another truck forum that has a "for sale" area and someone was parting out 70's trucks and IIRC they use the same filter housings, that where I got mine from. Now note the later 80's 300 six motors used a "normal looking" filter housing that would work also. I think we have a WTB (want to buy) area can ask in there. The other is Ebay and Craig's list. On the list you may get lucky and find someone parting out a truck. Oh I hear you on the junk yards as I lived in CT, 10 miles from the NY line on I95, up to 6 years ago and the yards scrapped anything older than 10 years. Dave ----

I don't see any issues with what you posted here. Others without ADHD had done worst as I think I am one of them at times I would like to know why you think the ZF5 is a load of troubles? I have my reasons but would like to hear your if you don't mind? Dave ---- never mind I found your other post on the ZF5 and I can see why now, I don't blame you.

I cant help on the cooling issue other than you sure there is not something bad with that motor to start with? I ask because when I had a GM diesel I could not get heat into the motor unless I drove it and had a load on it. Just to sit and idle it would not get hot even with the radiator covered in the winter. On the pillar gauge pod I don't think you will find anything that will bolt in. What you will need to do is find a pod that "may work" and fiber glass it to your trim. OR Take your trim and find small cans the gauges will fit into, single gauge pods, and hot glue them to your trim then take fleece blanket to put over them and use glass rosin to glass everything in place. If you look on Youtube you should be able to find how this it done. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=diy+pillar+gauge+pod+ Dave ----

:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:We get it April fools joke I had to do it. Give a look through this area as it should have different posts that may help you. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum52/ And I know this one will as it is just what you asked. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1557261-holley-sniper-efi-install.html Just note he has a built up motor so don't know how well the v2 EFI kit would work on a stock motor. I cant remember if anyone has done the bolt on Ford kit, think they make one now & the Jeep one too, or not at this time? As for "I think it would make it more reliable". I don't have any issues with mine not being reliable in stock forum. I have over 5000 miles since back on the road in Nov 2019. I have also raced Jeeps, Toyota L/C really and never had any issues with a carb on a vary ruff track even jumping it no issues but each his own I guess. Dave ----

Well back a few weeks ago when I lowered the rod / jet to lean the carb out some, it did run better, I found rust in the bowl. I also found when driving it the accel pump seamed like it was not working. Last weekend I checked the and accel pump was not working so I pulled the carb. It did have a little rust so I don't want to install the new carb till I find what tank has the rust issue and I get that fixed. I could not find why the pump was not working. When testing on the bench it was working just fine? I cleaned what little rust out of the bowl then using my Motor's book for pros I adjusted the rod / jet assy and the float before putting it together. Installed the carb back on the motor along with a see through gas filter so I can see what tank has go the rust. I also made adjustments to the vacuum advance can on the dist. It was pulling in to much timing and to soon and I was getting a lot of pinging. Between the fixed carb and the timing change the truck runs pretty good again. Before I pulled the carb I added 1qt of ATF to the oil and ran it around the block. It was sitting in there while I did the carb & timing fix then changed the oil & filter. I even greased the kingpins & tie rods. All go for another 3000 miles LOL. I took the truck to work Monday and was happy with the AFR but could be a little leaner. On the way home it run a little richer, warmer OAT of 70*f, it was 45*f when I went in. At WOT the gauge never went any leaner than high 16, low 17 this time and I tested a few times on the high way and back roads. Yesterday, Being truck is running good it was time to power wash the motor & under side so I can look for the oil leak that is coating everything. I got it clean but ran out of time to check for the leak so that is up next when I have the time. Dave ----

That's not a bad price for a style side plate bracket with working light, to be used when no rear bumper is installed. Dave ----

Thanks you David on that information, It looks really close to what I have about now both on the gauge & for timing. Gary I think you are right, so close yet so far I want to get a little more "testing" in before I make more adjustments to the carb. I may also work with the timing a little more before the carb but will see. I power washed the motor / under side of the truck as I need to find and fix the oil leak so the truck is parked till I can find it, don't want to re-coat everything if I don't have to. Thanks guys Dave ---

When I first put gas in the tanks I poured 5 gallons each and I saw the needle move from below empty to the line. I only care where the "empty" is as I don't want to run out even with 2 tanks. Dave ----

Normally I would say the same thing at 16* BTDC. When I had it set to 10*-12* it would crank a long time before starting. Now some of that could be the accel pump may have stopped work at the same time I don't know? I get no kick back when starting, 1 pump and it lights off with a tap of the key. Real close to what my 02 Durango EFI 5.9 dose on starting. I don't know if the timing retard works or not? How would one go about checking if it did or not? Guessing check timing at idle and say its 16* BTDC. Then with a helper have them start the motor and when checking with the light see if it starts at say 8* BTDC? Oh I also did not have any pinging and that was a vary good thing! With the run to work yesterday morning (1am) it was about 45*f out and the AFR was high 14's to low 15's at 65 - 70 MPH and was happy with that readings and the truck ran great. On the way home (4pm) it was about 70*f out and the AFR was high 13's to low/mid 14's at 45 - 55 MPH (back roads) wish the readings were like on the morning run but the truck still ran great. Right now I am keeping an eye on the see through filter to see what tank may have rust issues before doing much more with tuning for MPG and a carb swap. Dave ---- oh wait to reading are off because of the 10% gas I run so it is running richer right? Darn it

Thanks for the information. Now to find where that pesky oil leak it from Dave ----

My wife can drive stick either. I may if she wants to teach her on the truck, not my car as I got to much into the rebuilt trans & the clutch for her to hurt it. Truck clutch is easy to change if I have to and if she can hurt the NP435 then it was bad to start LOL. Now that I have the carb issues fixed, for now, I need to find & fix the oil leak and get the AC working again, then I think I am set for the summer. On my AC I don't know if I will send it out for evac and fix or just put more in it? Think 1 of the O-rings at the compressor fitting is bad as I see oil at that spot. Dave ----

Thanks When you are one of the first few members asked to join there was a lot going on. If it bothered me that much I would have ask sooner. Dave ----

Being I am the only one that drives my truck, well maybe my son, the seat dose not move so no need to replace the seat with a power one LOL. I cant remember if I added the plastic sheet to the door before the panel went on? Don't think I did because it was giving me fits trimming it and gave up. I did add "peel & stick" (roof sealer from hard ware store) it the outside door panel when I had the door open up. This makes the door a little more solid sounding when closing and helps the radio sound from the door speakers not so tinny. You don't need to do the full panel with the strips. I only did 2 passes and happy with the out came. Only other thing I might do when panel is off is to get cups or buckets that the speakers fit in and then into the door. They keep water off the back side of the speaker and help the sound go into the cab and not the inner door. Dave ---- Forgot, on the AC, mine just stopped working and need to fix before it gets hot here. If you can find a non-AC truck and pull the kick panels off for your truck you just need to pull yours off, undo the 4 screws holding the metal blank off plate in place and add the non-AC kick panels. My truck did not have AC so it had the vents in place and not knowing when I was going to get my AC working I kept them. The AC parts came from my parts truck with a firewall swap. Well yesterday on the way home from work I opened them and with the door glass down was a nice drive home.

I don't think I am on the map, Angier / Benson line, McGee's Cross Roads (27501 if Gary wants to add me), about 30 min from Raleigh. I have been up your way on a few LP / propane runs when my co. sends me that way. Yesterday 1 of my 3 loads was to Sneads Ferry, so they send me all over NC. Dave ----

I use a little plastic folding step stool when the wife needs to get in. It folds and goes under her feet on the floor. I also get a feel when I help her in with the stool. I did think of running boards but I don't like the look of any of the after market ones and the SC molded ones on the later factory trucks if you can find them are crazy money Dave ----

Good job on the weather stripping. My doors were all apart, for years, and the kit I got had everything so I started with the vents window seals first so I could install them. Once the vent frame was installed I did the main window seals and the outer sweep, have not done the inners yet as I want to replace the door panels. The door seal was easy but had to trim is shorter NBD. I have not added the little rubber wind noise strip at the top corner and should as I do get some noise from there but its a truck not a Cady! I reused the rear glass rubber seal as it was in good shape and if I ever get a slider I will use the new seal with it. I did install the rear glass by myself but was not to hard but I have done rubber seal glass installs before on VW bugs. Front glass dose not use a rubber seal on our trucks it is Butyl tape from the factory and what I used. Others like to use glue that is used on the newer cars & trucks. Dave ----

Walter is looking good Last time I washed my truck I did it in the rain. Rain got it wet and kept it wet while washing and it rinsed it off came out nice and I was soaked Dave ----