FuzzFace2

This was just the first set I came across and they do look good. I just worry would they "come clean" with the next wash? When I lived in CT I only went to a hand wash car wash, I miss that place. Down here in NC I wash by hand and it is mostly the pick up and not the DD. With the pollen now its not worth washing because even in the garage it turns yellow! Dave ----

I did a Google search to see what that cap was to look like before the paint was washed off and cam up with this set for a 4x4 or van in 15" https://www.ebay.com/itm/233806211477?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=233806211477&targetid=1068215112660&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9009657&poi=&campaignid=11616960928&mkgroupid=111101411977&rlsatarget=pla-1068215112660&abcId=9300455&merchantid=8448414&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8sL1l77a7wIVg4JbCh2NSg94EAQYASABEgK8qPD_BwE Dave ----

As a kid I only remember re-cap tires as that's what dad had money for. He had a delivery service with 2 trucks that ran local so to keep them going it was re-caps. Dave ----

Agreed. I really just didn't know what my options were. I've clearly found the right place. I have no qualms about keeping the stock setup if I can get it functioning properly. I have found very affordable rebuild kits for the YFA carb and even just buying another one isn't bad. I may need another header still, I had it off in the Fall and I tried every trick in the book to get that EGR tube out of it, couldn't get it. New ones are only about $175 and it looks like they come pre-plugged, so that could be a decent option. I really don't want to spend that much on this one portion of the truck, so I'll be trying these other suggestions first for sure. My vision for this truck is quitting my day job, getting a trusty old hound, and just driving around the neighborhood with my dog doing handy-man work for my neighbors. Maybe it's just a fantasy, but it sounds pretty sweet to me! Not sure the Mrs. would agree.... -Tom What we posted is guessing you don't have smog check in your area. I would not put any time or money into that YFA carb as it is some what controlled by a computer(feed back system) and if any part of the system is bad the computer freaks out and goes into 'limp home mode". Same goes for the dist., it is (timing) controlled by the computer and locks down if in limp mode. Again the dist. has to be changed out if you keep the factory YF carb (non-computer) and the cheap Ebay carb you would be good there. On the EGR tube, is there enough to cut the tube, flatten the ends and bend them over to seal it? Then you would not need to deal with it. If you have a torch you can also heat the part the threads go into red hot the it should un-thread if the bending does not work. Heat would help on the flat / bending also. Now if you wanted a little more power, cant say how much?, you can go with EFI exh. manifolds. They flow a little better than the log manifold on the motor now. But that brings some issues. The set up you have now the 2 manifold are bolted together, the exh. heats the intake up when cold. If you go with the kit is also does not have a way to heat the intake manifold. I think someone posted the Clifford kit came with a plate to pipe hot water to heat the intake. You can find this plate on Ebay also, that is where I got mine and I use EFI exh. manifolds. Heating the intake floor helps keep the air / fuel mixed. If to cool the fuel drops out of the air and pools on the intake floor and drips into the cyl. What may be more important than heating the intake floor is running hot air to the factory air filter assy. This hot air helps keep the carb from icing when it is cool and damp out. With the EFI manifolds this is hard to do because there is no tins that the factory had on them to hook the hose to for the heat to get from them to the filter. I do run the factory air filter but no hose so it gets what ever heat it can. I live in NC and drive my truck all year round, not everyday, so it can be 20*f when I take the truck to work in the morning and 60*'s on the way home. I have only had it stumble 2 times in the 5+K miles I have on the truck that might have been icing of the carb, other wise it been good. AC not hooked up yet in this picture but you can see it looks factory stock other than no smog stuff. This is what it looked like when I bought the truck. Dave ----

That what I would do, pull coil wire and use starter to build oil psi. With EFI it may want to light off with a tap of the key and why pulling the coil wire would be what I would do. Dave ----

On the vacuum what Cory posted is right but if you have AC, Cory is north of the border and AC is not really needed, you will need to hook that up to manifold supply. If I was you before dropping 2K try this. You will need a dist. even with the kit you posted or the Clifford kit. Either the factory DSII dist., box on the fender, wiring, and coil. OR Do the HEI dist. as it has everything built in and just drop it in. So with the dist. taken care of spend the $70 on the YF carb, remove the emission junk (EGR pipe & plug) air pump, vacuum lines other than posted above. See how it runs and if you don't like it keep the dist. and sell the carb / manifolds and buy the kit you listed. My 300 is using a DSII factory dist. and factory YF carb and intake manifold but ..... I am using EFI exh. manifolds. I just bought the cheap carb to replace mine as I was having issues but over the weekend I took my carb apart, cleaned it good again and checked & adjusted and it is working great again. Vacuum lines: Power brakes, carb to dist. advance, HVAC (I have AC), PCV, and vapor canisters under battery (I for got this above). No air pump, no EGR hooked up as it is plugged off but in place as a spacer. I like my 300 and its low RPM power. I also built it to pull my open deck car trailer if need be. Now if I can get a little more MPG out of it, mid 14's now, I would be a lot happier! Dave ---- try this link https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum52/

That front bolt in cross member always end up being bent. I was lucky the one on my parts truck was in better shape so I used it. As for the gear oil. The oil I used was the only one I could find on a shelf at AZ that listed GL-4 & GL-5. It dose not give me warm fuzzies that it also lists GL-5. My Advance Adaptors over drive came with Red Line M-90 oil that ONLY lists GL-4 and think that is why they send it with the unit. They have you break in the OD using 30W motor oil for 30 min then drain & fill with the RL M-90. My NP435 is a little hard shifting when cold and when warm little hard at times to down shift from 4th to 3rd. It is always hard to pull it out of granny gear. I don't know if it was this way as I picked it up used but I want to fill it with the RL oil just been lazy to buy it. Dave ----

When installed they looked good from what I could see but with rust in the carb it has to be coming from some where? I pulled the carb off motor and pulled it apart for a look-see. It did have a little rust but not really bad. The accel pump did not work when on the motor, 1 reason it was pulled other the rust. On the bench it worked? I also pulled out my Motor's book for professional that gave a better write up of the YF carb than the rebuild kit sheet. The carb is missing a spring for the rod / jet but seams to be ok with out it. Made adjustments as per the book and carb went back on. I did install a see through filter and will keep an eye on it when running off each tank to see what one has the rust issue. I also adjusted the vacuum can on the dist. So it pulls in at a higher vacuum. I also bumped the timing up to 16 BTDC, total is about 48 BTDC now. Took truck to work this morning and it ran great. My gage was 14.5 to 15.5 but most of the time 14.7 to 15.3. WOT I did not see it drop leaner than 16.7. So the old carb is working again and will run it till I am sure no rust will hurt the new carb. Dave ----

Could do like ARM ashby did and set a little in a can of gas for a week or more and see if it gets soft. It could be the red stands up better to chemicals / gas? Dave ----

I would also like to know as I may need to remove mine because of a oil leak. But to tell you I have not really looked it over for the leak or to remove the balancer at this time. Dave ----

OK now a owner of a NP435 after the T18 that was in my truck would not shift into gears at times and made a lot of noise. Anyway When you had it in low, granny gear, and let the clutch out I bet the truck did not move right? Did you try and see if the shift lever would go a little bit more into gear? I am thinking you did not and it would have. Mine is hard to get into, and out some times, of granny gear. I think it may be in gear but it did not go in all the way. Because I have driven the truck enough I kind of know when it is not in all the way. Also being you don't have the floor pan in place why not pull the shift tower as it will give you a better picture of what is going on inside the transmission. That is how I seen the T18 was trashed and needed to be rebuilt or replaced. You can see all the gears and other parts a lot better than from the PTO port on the side of the transmission. Dave ---- BTW I hope that Amsoil is not rated for GL5 use the oil has to be only rated for GL4 or it will hurt the yellow metal parts in the transmission.

I have a good word that USPS is doing final drop of most shippers packages. I just got a carb off Ebay that came from Cali. to MC and left by UPS. UPS only list label made & it was shipped or picked up nothing else. Some where along the line UPS handed the package over to USPS for the door drop. Seller charged for shipping and posted when it would show up and it did show on the day they said. Sorry to hear it is taking so long for your shipment. Dave ----

You might want to look here or even join to ask your question. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum39/ I am sure you will find the answer there and if you cant find the parts either new or used in the junk yard the members over there can help you / him get the needed parts. Good luck Dave ----

I have not looked into the later fill hose hook up to our tanks but guys have done it, wonder how they do it? I do know if you use a later gas tank because of say the in tank fuel pump there is no way to hook up the plastic inner hose. I also don't know what they do about it? I have not looked into the diesel side other than I know when filling diesel fuel it foams a lot. That seams to be a big issue for the diesel truck guys and the pumps clicking off. Dave ----

As for the roll over vent at the top of the tank and the vary small line / hose all the way to the front under the battery tray where the canister is that collects the vapor. The canister(s), 2 if duel tanks, has a hose that also goes to the carb bowl vent and a tee to a vacuum supply to clear the canister(s) when the motor is running. There is no way this evap system can take all the air being displaced when filling the tank(s). Dave ----

So is this on the 86 with a 300 six gas motor or a different truck / motor? I ask because diesels have a totally different fix, from what I seen posted, than gas. Yes the tank fills have a vent with ion the fill hose, neck. The plastic part fits into "holders" at the top filler & down at the tank. I think what happens is the plastic part pulls out of the holder and makes it not work as it should. You can see the holder at the filler side. There is the same at the tank side. Of my picture it is what I had to make to hook up a rear tank on my flare side, never a option on a flare side. I think what happens over time the plastic hose gets shorter and pulls out of the holder(s). When I did the fitting of the rear tank fill I made the plastic hose a little longer so I hoped it would pull out. I may have done that on the front also but I don't remember at this time years later. I have also seen other posts where the plastic hose has pulled out of one end or both or in 1 case was folded / pinched so it could not pass air. Now I have also seen it posted to use the later year fillers, 87-92?, as the fuel goes down the center hose, its a little larger than ours, and air up the out side hose. I am sure someone can post how this is done. Dave ---- ps I should note that I may have it click off a few times but I would say 99% of the time I can fill as fast as the pump will pump.

If this is what I think it is, lower center of dash to fire wall, there are 2 different braces at least for 81. AC & non-AC brace is what I found between my trucks. I could be wrong too? Dave ----

IIRC the wiring dia. show a ground going all the way to the firewall on the later trucks, my 81 did not have this ground wire. Also rear bumpers were not a factory option it was dealer installed so it has to have a way to hook up a plate light. I checked my pictures, not to good, but the plate light does not look like it was part of the tail light harness. Here is the style side harness un-taped and I don't see the plate light connection. But look closer at the yellow connector by the left side hitch. That would be the plate light connection. Here is the harness I made for my flare side and that yellow connector would have been part of the flare side harness as I added the light end plugs to the style side harness. So with no factory rear bumper and the plate brackets added think from the factory there has to be a plate light connection some where. I don't have any pictures of the style side harness on the floor to know for sure. BTW here is the plate light harness I made for my flare side truck. So for the OP do you have a plate light connection on your truck? Dave ---- Had a brain fart The style side does have plate lights that fit the bumper. See the 2 little lights on the center of the harness, they fit the bumper. I wonder if they used 1 to fit the plate bracket lights as it is a 1/4 turn socket also. The other could have been taped up out of the way till a bumper was installed. That is my story and I am sticking to it Dave ---- just seen I have my plate bracket bolted in place so I knew just where the harness connections needed to be placed.

IIRC the wiring dia. show a ground going all the way to the firewall on the later trucks, my 81 did not have this ground wire. Also rear bumpers were not a factory option it was dealer installed so it has to have a way to hook up a plate light. I checked my pictures, not to good, but the plate light does not look like it was part of the tail light harness. Here is the style side harness un-taped and I don't see the plate light connection. But look closer at the yellow connector by the left side hitch. That would be the plate light connection. Here is the harness I made for my flare side and that yellow connector would have been part of the flare side harness as I added the light end plugs to the style side harness. So with no factory rear bumper and the plate brackets added think from the factory there has to be a plate light connection some where. I don't have any pictures of the style side harness on the floor to know for sure. BTW here is the plate light harness I made for my flare side truck. So for the OP do you have a plate light connection on your truck? Dave ----

1422 is a rubber stop used WITHOUT aft axle tank. It's a cushion between the wheel and the frame. If you have the aft axle tank, you wouldn't have the rubber stop. Thanks guys, My flare side has a rear tank and have not seen a non-rear tank setup. Dave ---- ps I added the rear tank to me flare side so you well never see one like this.

So I guess they are different then? It looks to bolt up the same way so why 2 different brackets? Dave ----

That plate bracket is different than the one Ron? makes. I wonder if it is because he is making them with the tooling he has or that is how the one he copied was done? I looked for a picture of just the bracket but guess I did not take one And it installed on the truck is not a good one. Dave ---- ps: do you have the light for it? IIRC it is not only used on trucks but a few cars and they may have a black part and not silver but should not make any difference in our dase as it is not seen and they both work the same when installed. The colors where because when on cars you can see the light.

That window sticker looks good The guys over on the AMC car forum have been doing that for a while now. Some even add in options with price if they "up graded" something. Just a thought you said you cant fill in the center what if someone had a dealer pricing guide to get the price from as I think that is why you cant fill it out right? Some one must have a guide somewhere. I think I would still fill out the center as it would be with out the price so it was at least listed so either you can see what options the truck has or when you do get the prices you just have to add them. Dave ----

New carb showed up yesterday bit did not open the box yet. No time before bed time. I am thinking of digging into the old carb a little for 2 reasons. Just to see if the avcel pump tube is still in place and working. Same with the high speed rid & jet. And last time I had the carb top off to adjust the rod & jet I found the bowl floor covered is rust. I would need to address this issue before the new carb goes on. Got to work part of Saturday so see if I have time over the weekend. Dave ----

Is 1422 (cross member) used with out a rear tank? I ask because I don't have that but I do have a rear tank. And before you ask sorry not for sale. I need to find a 5x5.5 wheel so I can have a spare tire. Dave ----