FuzzFace2

Little late now but what it you were to run just the cat, no muffler (straight pipe in its place), out through the tail pipe. Dont think they check for a muffler do they? Its been 5+ years and dont remember what mine sounded like but it also did not have a full system / tail pipe. Dave ----

It is 37 miles each way to work and all but 4 are on the high way of 65 to 70 MPH. I dontknow how much ther EFI manifolds add as I never drove the truck with out them or the intake heater. I knew I would be driving the truck when it was cold and why I did the coolant heater when rebuilding the truck. I like that "it is pretty much a road going farm tractor." I did not know he was a member on here also. Dave ----

And why I went with a Holley 2300 carb on my AMC 304 motor. Yes the AMC used a Motorcraft carb and the Holley was a direct bolt on, even took the factory AMC air filter assy. Dave ----

I wish I could help but my truck came with the pump and hose when I got it. I wonder if it is from a van as they had the Sag pump? Dave ----

Sorry to hear about you issue. If you sell it how much of the pie dose she get? Is it half? What if she gets it and sells it how much do you get? or would that be after you 2 split? If you both come to a price and she gets half could you give her the money, buy her out type deal? Do you have a good family member of friend you could sell them the truck and after the air clears buy it back? With all this you dont want the price to high if you have to give her money but if you must sell it then you want as much as you can get till she gets part of it also. It sucks either way. I was lucky as mine left me with the cars & trucks, 1 4x4 I bought for her to use in winter. Good luck hope it turns out good for you. Dave ----

Haha! But I'm not a paint and body guy...I'm a wrench and skinned knuckles kind of guy! I had one about 30 to 40 years ago, think I just tripped over it in a box the other day in the garage? Anyway it did not touch the stripes down the side of my Gremlin, they were baked on big time! This was maybe mid 80's and the car was a 75. Had a hard time with 36 grit paper on the DA to get them off. Dave ----

Not if you are running 33" or 35" tires. I think you can run 32"s on a 10" wheel but it might be pushing it. I ran a 31x10.5x15 on a 10" wheel, books said it was ok, and I did not like how the truck handled and the tire wear was way to fast. Went to a 8" wheel with the next set of tires, same make & size tire, and they lasted a lot longer. Dave ----

You can also find abandonedbronco information over Ford Truck Enthusiasts in the motor performance area for the six motors. I run a 300 / NP435 and Advance Adaptor's over drive in my 81 Flare side and a 2.75 rear gear. Thing is the speed limit here is 70 MPH and if not doing that or more you will get run over! I can tell you I am turning 1800 in OD @ 70 MPH and that is the same RPM @ 55 MPH in 1:1 Non-OD @ 70 MPH is 2500. At 75 MPH 2700 RPM non-od / 2000 RPM in od At 80 MPH 3000 RPM non-od / 2200 RPM in od I can also tell you my MPG did not change between not using OD and using OD but the lower RPM is less wear on the motor. All my shifting is done below 2000 RM. I am running EFI exh manifolds into a Walker Ypipe and stock exh system / tail pipe out past the rear tire, no cat. I do have a heat plate on the factory intake, factory YF carb and air filter assy. I love the little 300 motor as it pulls good at low RPM and loads of room to work on it. Dave ----

On the EGR you do not need to remove it and come up with a spacer or make adjustments to the throttle cable bracket. You can just use a tin can and make a blank off plate to fit between the valve and the adaptor / spacer and this will make it so it cant work. Also if you pull the carb & EGR spacer there will be a hole in the intake manifold just drive in a small freeze plug and this will also block it off so it cant work. With the spacer in place I did not need to mass with the throttle cable bracket and run the factory air filter assy. As for the tube you can leave it in place or remove it and use pipe plugs to block off the holes or cut the tube but leave some at each end so you can bend the tube over to seal it. I did buy one of them knock off Ebay carbs as I was having issues with mine and that was after it ran good after I rebuilt it than crapped out after I was trying to lean the carb out. Thing was I fond rust in the bowl when I was leaning it out and did not want to install the Ebay carb till I could find what tank had the rust. So I have not installed it yet and it sits in the box on the shelf. I have since fixed my carb, dont know what I did as the accel pump stopped working and would run way lean at WOT. I used my Motor manule for pros and adjusted it as it had listed and all good now. May get brave again and try to lean it out a little. Now with it running lean and think more so with out the EGR I had a lot of pinging with any throttle. Vacuum was pulling in a lot of advance but what is nice the 300 six motors have adjustable vacuum advance cans. So I was able to dial out a lot of the vacuum advance and not more pinging. I should also point out I am running EFI exh manifold that they say flow a little better than the log exh manifold if that makes any difference. Dave ----

I almost forgot my temp, oil and maybe gas gauges have been reading up & down, mostly down. Once or twice the temp & oil gauges have read where I think they should, in the middle. I think the IVR is going out I just dont remember what truck this one was from but going to give the other a try. Then again if I was smart I would get a new one being its a pain pulling the dash apart. I also have 2 LED dash lights that are not working like they should and will look into them also. Dave ----

My poor truck is falling apart faster than I can fix it Last week or more the AC compressor was cutting on & off, a sign it is low on charge. Now that the temps will be in the 80's this week and its not working I need to fix it. I have seen some oil & dye, before the power washing, around a fitting on the compressor, hope bad O-ring. Going to try and fix this over the weekend. Yesterday when opening the right door to put my work stuff in at 1am the inside light did not turn on? I played with the switch and still nothing so maybe bad bulb? Nope it worked with the left door so need to look into this now also. Truck has been running great with this last carb cleaning and re-adjusting but may try and lean it out just a little more, its been running between 14 & 15 on the gauge on 10% gas. I have not checked on the oil leak since the power washing. When you are out the door for work at 1am when you get home 14 hours later the last thing I want to do is look for a leak LOL So it looks like I will be busy this weekend. Dave ----

On the dash vents try putting the control on max AC and see if you get anything then. I have to put it to AC first before anything will come out the vents on the dash. Dave. ----

You can run OE style distributors dont think TFI can how ever but I have heard the DSII distributor can be retained but you will have to lose the DSII ignition module and replace it with a ignition box like a MSD. Then youll have to lock the OE distributor where it will have no mechanical or vacuum advance capability and install the distributor at 50* BTDC at cylinder #1 terminal on the cap. I am thinking of doing this later on as the Holley distributors have a RFI issue that they still havent corrected. Like wise MSD makes a DSII plug and play harness so you can simply unbolt your DSII module and mount a MSD CD box and plug it into your OE harness. Only thing I am unsure about is if the OE tach in the dash would work with an aftermarket tach signal such as from a CD box for example. Its one of the reasons why I am holding off on having my Sniper control the timing as I dont want to lose my OE tach. If Dakota Digital comes out with their RTX retro cluster then I will be doing the swap as everyone swears letting the holley control the timing the power and fuel economy is so much better and the idle quality is so much smoother as the timing is constantly changing to help maintain idle. Aside from that you can run the sniper with a conventional distributor without timing control. Many people do this with no problem and I have installed many without making any changes to the ignition system and they all performed beautifully. The throttle response over the carb was day and night just with the sniper install over a carb. Wow you would think being the TFI dist. is locked you could use it? Then you cant use the DSII box with the older dist. that you need to mod, but have to use the MSD box for a lot more money! Is Holley & MSD in bed together? The MSD boxes have been known to go belly up and its not like you can hit the local parts store for one. If they dont have (DSII box) in stock they can get it over night, not MSD. As for the tach if the MSD box will not tigger the factory tach right from the box, MSD makes an adaptor to fix this. Look on MSD's site as it should be listed there. I run all MSD IGN. in my drag car as I figured if I had any issues with it I could call them and they could not say "well you are using XXX part and that is where the issue is as they would not / could not test it. I did not want any BS from them that way. Dave ----

But it is made by Timken (bearings?) so I wonder if it is to fit a bearing into because it made a hole to large say in the alum. case? I got to say it is Dave ----

Squirlye, one of the reasons for the dist. change on the 84 up 300 six motors is they are a feed back system. Feed back was Fords first "EFI" if you want to call it that. There was a computer and it controlled the fuel mixture in the carb, the EFI side of feed back, and the computer also controlled the timing. The dist. only set the timing to the factory as a start and pointed where the spark should go that was it. Older dist. beside doing the above as did mechanical advance and vacuum advance timing. With feed back this is all done by computer, the dist. can not do any advancing. Now without asking Holley if their EFI can also control the Ford feed back dist. (known as TFI) timing advance I cant say. If it cant then you would need to swap it out for something that the Holley system can make changes to. If you were to run old school dist. the only thing I can see is the dist. is trying to do its thing (adjust timing) and the EFI is trying to its thing (adding fuel) the thing is the 2 can either help each other or hurt each other. So that is why its best to have the Holley system control both fuel & timing. Dave ----

As you can tell I am the type that likes paint & shiny! Coming from a body & paint family I guess is why? I hear you on getting started on something then not following through. I have 1 project I been working on, mostly not LOL, for about 30 years now. One of the things for me on a project is it has to move under its own power most of the time. If I can move it I am hopeful I will stay working on it. There was maybe 2 weeks where the pick up could not be rolled out and not long after under its own power. I have also found making a list on a white board of what I wanted to do would keep me on track also. When a job was done put a line through it but leave it on the board. This way you can see what you have done and the jobs are getting shorter. Once all done then remove them and start a new list. If you were to remove a done job and add another it looks like you never did anything and the list just keeps going on! I would also say pick small jobs to put on the board at first and maybe only 3 or 4 so you don't become overwhelmed. On the paint or painting if that's what you want to do. Unless the paint on the truck is flaking off or has a lot of paint jobs on it, it dose not have to go down to bare metal. I would do the needed body work, sand down the rust area and treat it with a converter and then prime & paint. As for paint if you cant do it yourself do you have a Macco or the like by you? Some of there paint jobs are not that bad but you have to do the body work and prep, all they do is mask off what you don't remove and paint it. Dave ----

What is it? Your guess is as good as mine as I don't know either? Wonder where on the trans it goes as that might help? Dave ----

On the floor I can under stand not going metal if none are around. Only reason I did was I had a good one from the parts truck to use, It even had bed liner on it that I kept to keep the floor in good shape and keep stuff from sliding around back there. On the wood you going planks over ply wood? Did you do ply wood or planks on the 84? Would ply wood nay be be cheaper? Think it would still need to use 2 sheets because of how wide the bed floor is but you would not need to cut the wheel humps like on the other bed sides. OK after market stripes they should be easy to find then. I was looking at different ones on the web when I was doing mine, I even was thinking of painting them on. As you know you get close to the end of a project and you just want to drive it so I went no stripes between the 2 colors. I can add after market stripes if I want its just finding a color that would go with the red & white. On the screw holes in the cab. I think I would put screws in the holes, grind the heads off and tap it down a little and use a little filler to finish it off. I have taken metal rod that fit the screw holes (molding clip holes in my case that I could not get a copper spoon to), welded the rod in the hole and used a cut off wheel to cut it flush and did the same to the next holes. I know you said you don't want to pint it so blend it, after all it is single stage paint. You will need to take the oxidation off the old paint before blending but that is normal for blending. Truck looks great Dave ----

The other choice is to fiber glass the bottom of the tank. Back in the day if you didn't have the money to send it out to a radiator shop to be sealed we would clean the bottom and ruff it up for the glass to stick and glass it. Rosin / glass / rosin and bring it up the sides. let it set a few days before installing and putting gas in it. Now this was before the 10% blend we got now so don't know how well glass will hold up? On the new tank you may want to rosin the bottom where it hits the skid plate. Dirt & water will get between the 2 and act like sand paper to any paint you use. With the rosin & maybe glass it would need to "sand" thru it before getting to the tank metal. Just my ,02 after the $450 for a new tank. Dave ----

That screw has the slot on the under side and why the carb has to come off and flipped over to adjust. The FIS is to remove the screw and install it in the same holt from the top. This way you can adjust it with out needing to remove and flip the carb over. When you see how it's set up the light bulb will go off. Dave. ----

Welcome to the Garage! Truck looks to have some good bones. Well "Give me your opinion or guidance" is going to be all over the place with answers. We will need a little back ground first. What is the final plan for the truck? Work truck full of tools and parts for a job, a nice driver, or a show truck? What is your skill level, what tools do you have to work with and the area to do the work in. This all will play out on the final out come of the truck. I bought my truck to do weekly trash runs with and paid to much for it in my eyes. Well it needed patches on the floor & rockers and for me it was easier to pull the cab and that snowballed into a full on cab off frame rebuild over 4 years. I also found a lot of safety issues that I would have found down the road at a later date. 12-15-2015 12-29-2015 1-2-2016 just how bad the floors, rockers, cab corners were in 2/27/2020 just after a wash. I did all the work myself so I have the tools, work area and the skill to do it all. And the plate to show that LOL I have also added some custom touches only someone that knows the trucks would pick out (duel tanks, custom metal bed floor, custom bumpers). I built it to be a nice driver and drive it to / from work, 37 miles each way and if it rains oh well, load it with the weekly trash (that I need to do today yet). I would like to take it to a show but we got hit with this virus so no shows since back on the road. So a lot depends on the first questions I asked for me to "Give my opinion or guidance" but am willing to do so. Dave ----

Yes that is dose Dave ----

A Gear Vendors can go on the rear output of a transfer case and be used in a 4WD vehicle. But since it's only on the rear driveline it can't be used in 4WD. Whether that's acceptable to you or not is up to you. Maybe I did not say it but you are right. The GV can be used in a 4x4 truck just NOT in 4x4 mode. Now some say you would not be going that fast in 4x4 to have to worry about high RPM or MPG where the GV would be used for mostly. For me having a 300 six and using it as a back up to pull my open deck car trailer, around 5000 lb, I like that I can split each gear if need be. I can tell just driving it that splitting 3rd before going into 4th direct is the way I would need to go when pulling a heavy load. The spread between 3rd & 4th on my NP435 is pretty big. Dave ----

What he said to both Dave ----

IIRC it is a little different shape on the later trucks to clear the AC condenser. On the early truck using a replacement condenser, the only one we can get is the later ones, you need to space that part of the hood latch and the lower condenser out about 1/4" IIRC. Don't know if that will work for you or not? Dave ----