FuzzFace2

Nice score on the parts. On the clock if you have a good hand you can cut the 3? panels out of your center bezel or try and find one that is for a clock that good. Thing is a lot of the ones for the clock have also been cut up for a non-factory radio like mine As for the wiring IIRC all truck have the wiring so if a higher level is ordered it is just a plug in and bezel change. Now the color of the wires / plug have changed between the 3 different clocks you can get but it is pretty easy to wire up. I got my clock off Ebay and it had the trucks side of the pig tail and that was good because my was cut the same way so I just had to check the wires to make sure they did what they were to do and splice them to my trucks harness. IIRC the truck has a 3 wire plug should be up near where the clock gets installed. 1 wire is hot all the time to keep the time & date. 1 wire is hot with the key on and this is what tell the clock to "turn on" so you can see it. the last was the dash light for dimming. (think this wire on the truck side is blue w/red?) What color are the clock wires? Dave ----

I have had the baike a few weeks now so after the show a few towns over with the crew for our car club and a little nap I hit the garage to work on the bike. Pulled the carbs as I was told the bike had not been run in over a year and would not run unless the carb was sprayed so I never heard it run before I bought it. I was told the cooling fan did not work, switch or fan could be bad? The tank was full to keep it from rusting and it had to come off to pull carbs. Figured pull hose off carb and run it into a clean can, gas was still good ad it was the good stuff. Well that did not work as I got no fuel out? Open tank and run a hose in and use air hose to push the fuel out enough to pull tanks then dump the rust in the can. Once empty I pull the petcock and check into it. I dont know how it works but think it uses vacuum from the motor to open a rubber valve? Think it was stuck as I could not blow through it before I pulled it apart but think it will work now but going to pick up new rubber parts to rebuild it. Got the carbs off, someone has been there before as I found hoses not where they should have been? Got the carbs apart and they were pretty clean in side. I think if they got fuel to the bowls it would have run. Sprayed all jets and passages just to make sure they were clean. Only thing I did not like was a o-ring that goes between the fuel bowl and body that seals the accel. pump passage looked like it may cover the brass weight? Got the carbs back on, filled a oil bottle with gas and filled the carbs, no leaks so thats good LOL Battery was low and would not crank it over to fast. It did the same when I looked at it and he had it on a tender so may have a bad battery? Put a just pack on it, pull choke on and hit the stater and it fired right up but RPM went pretty high so shut it down to check & adjust things. Next fire up idle RPM still to high and need to look into it more but I wanted to check for vacuum leaks. I had to reuse the rubber o-rings between the manifolds and heads and they leaked damn! And they dont come in the carb rebuild kits. I let it run a bit to the point the cooling fan should have come on and sure enough it did not. I also checked to make sure it was charging, 14 volts so good there! Was happy it runs and other than the vacuum leak it sounded pretty good! Left my son's little tender charger on battery over night. Today I got out before it got really hot but did not get much done, not because I did not try. Beside the vacuum leak causing the high idle RPM the throttle did not have any free play so fixed that I hope. Did I say I bought a factory service manual? I looked that over for the cooling issue, I used it for the carbs. After pulling more stuff off just to find the temp switch so I can jump it to see if the fan comes on or not and that will tell me if the fan or switch is bad, I bought 1 of each just in case or wiring is bad. Fan is good, switch is bad and to fix either the radiator has to come out! Got looking at the old switch and it looks a lot BIGGER than the one I bought? Because I may want to run the motor after the vacuum leak fix I did not want to drain the cooling system just yet. Hit the hardware store for manifold o-rings, not the right size but hope 1 will work, NOPE will not work! I dont want to force anything because if the manifold breaks I am screwed as you cant get them anymore - did I say this is a 1 year only bike! So I got a list made up for the dealer who is closed till Tues. Need manifold O-rings and temp switch the most but want to get the tank petcock rubber parts if they can. Think the battery may (hope) be ok as the volts were up to 12.8 before I closed up the garage and the charger was off it for 2+ hours. I think the guy's tender either was not hooked up or not working when I went to look at bike? Dave ----

Back a few weeks ago I was looking over CL to see what was around for bull nose trucks with in 200 miles and under $2K and nothing came up. So I just happened to hit the motorcycle area for under $2k also and did nto see anything that cough my eye so I hit the parts area and come across this 83 Honda GL650i Silver Wing Interstate for $1200. Not run in a year but plates & insureance with 37,6xx on the clock. Still looks in pretty good shape for the year and miles. I did a little on line checking and found it is a 1 year only bike. Gov. raised the import taxes on bikes of higher CC to help HD who was going under. This is about the same time AMF bought HD and made a cheap bike to get back on their feet. Sent and email I wanted to look at the bike if still around, been listed for a week by now. Went and looked at it and it was in pretty good shape. Some scratches and looked like it fell over but was not moving when it happened. Front & rear suspension bushings felt good. Cranked it over, battery low so not fast, but did not hear any knocking. Oil I cooling, water cooled, looked clean. Made a deal for $900 cash and would be by next day if I got out early enough to get a trailer from Uhaul. As it was I was done with the deal so I was able to get the trailer on the way home but was to hot, 95*+ and now 5pm, been up since 3am so next day for pick up. BTW I was trying to do this under the radar of the wife but when I asked what money was in the bank and the trailer I had to come clean LOL She was not happy and said I never told her I wanted a bike. I then told her yes I did back when we had to change our driver lic. when we moved and I needed to take the bike test on the computer. ATT she was "why take the test?" I told her the weather is 90%+ good down here for riding a bike and would like to get one some day ......... 7 years latter LOL Dave ----

Come on Gary have him bleed the rears again I just went through this on my truck but lets back up a little. When I got the truck on the road the master & booster I found were bad so they were replaced. The new master was not good from the start as I was not happy how the pedal was. I replaced the Ebrake cables and when I hit the pedal it went to the floor! I did the bleeding front & rear a few times and still could not get the pedal off the floor I bought a new, not a reman but new master, bench bleed and installed. I then did a pressure bleed the full system and the pedal has never been better. I am with Gary replace the master. X2 what Pete said Part of my 4 year truck rebuild was replace the rubber brake hoses. Dave ----

Recheck the rear drum shoe adjustments. If the shoes were new and you installed them and you may have adjusted them did you press the pedal after you adjusted to center the shoes and check adjustments. Also after driving a bit the high spots on the shoes would wear down and add play to the shoe /. drum contact. Also what Gary is saying the rod out of the booster that pushes the master may not be adjusted right. If there is more gap between the rod and the master plunger you will feel this as free play in the pedal. Dave ----

I have never heard of the liquid gauges, fuel or other wise, be off in their readings The reason for liquid gauges is it steads the needle. On my drag car I run a liquid filled fuel psi gauge out on the cowl so when going down the track I can read it and not take my eyes off the track for too long. My bulk cement trailers have liquid gauges for the tank & line psi. Even with liquid the line psi still jumps a lot so I could just think how it would be with out liquid Dave ----

If I under stand right you are running a OE dist. but MSD cap & rotor? I thought the caps were red, dont remember what color the rotor is and I am not going to try and open the hood on the drag car to check. You are also running a MSD6AL box and the Ford box? Why the 6AL box if not running a Ford box and why not a Ford box only? What fuel pump you running that you need the regulator, in tank high psi pump? I may have a reason why but want to make sure what you are running. Dave ----

Can you post up a picture or 2 of this return & regulator. It could be this setup that is the cause. Dave ----

Yes it did and think you are right about it not seating as I checked the fixed one before I broke it and the NOS one when I installed it. I have nothing to loose drilling and tapping for 9/16 threads like you said. I never gave that a thought other than driving a roll pin in like I did. Dave ----

Yes it is, that one you cant get any more You can get the plastic bushing, the felt seal even the clip that holds the bushing on but not the screw in pivot. The NOS one I got years ago, I think a member found on Ebay so I grabbed it ASAP. Up till this morning I could not find it and I was freaking out on how I was going to fix this. It was in a box with 2 3 port fuel switching valve (also hard to get) and the inside door handle gaskets Gary sent me with my AMC parts LOL Dave ----

Yes there is a small clip to keep the bushing from coming off the open ends and there is a flange on the thread end to keep it from going to far that way. I have given a time-sert a thought if I knew if I could get a pivot with 1/2" threads of the right size other wise. But I do like what Gary said of drilling & tapping for a 9/16 - 12 bolt and Loctite it in the pivot part. We know that welding the bolt threads from a headless bolt dose not work. Dave ----

You are right the pivot did not seat so I found out when I threaded it in the block unlike the NOS one. See if I got you right. Cut flat at the red line then drill & tap as far as I could into the pivot for a 9/16-12 thread. Then thread in a bolt and cut the head off so I am left with threads that would go into the block and the flat part of the nut would sit against the block so the threads are not taking the full load. BTW I found the NOS pivot . Dave ---- Good new, bad news & badder news. Good news: I found the NOS part and got measurements from it. 3" long my fixed one is 3.25" long, too long but I had nothing to go by when I fixed it. Bad news: I figured I would use the fixed one so I could use the NOS to have others made off of. I think I saw why it broke, the threads were either too long and bottomed out or the weld would not let it seat on the nut part of the pivot like the base on the NOS one. Badder news: In trying to get the fixed one to sit on a flat base I ground down the weld and was using a die to thread it down a little more and the welded threads that my son said was better than mine failed also leaving the threaded part in the die. So I had to use the NOS part on the truck and will try and fix the fixed one again and see if i can have someone make a few if not to much $$$. Also when I pulled the linkage Ford uses thin plastic bushing between the rod ends that go thru the firewall. They were new when the truck was put on the road little over 2 years ago, they fell apart when I took the linkage apart. So I had to hit the hardware store for something better but they did not have anything that would fit either the rod or the hole it went thru so I had to make them. The good is they are thicker and little tougher so I hope last longer and I got extras and it is not to bad now that I know what has to be done to make them work. I also looked for the new / broken mirror head, glass broke when wife backed over the box from LMC, I must have thrown it out SO the truck now moved so if I need to use it I can. ​​​​​​​Dave ----

You are right the pivot did not seat so I found out when I threaded it in the block unlike the NOS one. See if I got you right. Cut flat at the red line then drill & tap as far as I could into the pivot for a 9/16-12 thread. Then thread in a bolt and cut the head off so I am left with threads that would go into the block and the flat part of the nut would sit against the block so the threads are not taking the full load. BTW I found the NOS pivot . Dave ----

Good new, bad news & badder news. Good news: I found the NOS part and got measurements from it. 3" long my fixed one is 3.25" long, too long but I had nothing to go by when I fixed it. Bad news: I figured I would use the fixed one so I could use the NOS to have others made off of. I think I saw why it broke, the threads were either too long and bottomed out or the weld would not let it seat on the nut part of the pivot like the base on the NOS one. Badder news: In trying to get the fixed one to sit on a flat base I ground down the weld and was using a die to thread it down a little more and the welded threads that my son said was better than mine failed also leaving the threaded part in the die. So I had to use the NOS part on the truck and will try and fix the fixed one again and see if i can have someone make a few if not to much $$$. Also when I pulled the linkage Ford uses thin plastic bushing between the rod ends that go thru the firewall. They were new when the truck was put on the road little over 2 years ago, they fell apart when I took the linkage apart. So I had to hit the hardware store for something better but they did not have anything that would fit either the rod or the hole it went thru so I had to make them. The good is they are thicker and little tougher so I hope last longer and I got extras and it is not to bad now that I know what has to be done to make them work. I also looked for the new / broken mirror head, glass broke when wife backed over the box from LMC, I must have thrown it out SO the truck now moved so if I need to use it I can. ​​​​​​​Dave ----

This what the part looked like when I first got the truck and first fix. Here is what the second fix looked like when it broke the first time. I cut the head off a 9/16 bolt for the threads and welded it to the bushing side. When that broke I took that other bolt, cut the head off but this time I drilled down the center of the threads & the bushing and drove in a roll pin then welded it. That is what broke this time and son said the welds were junk and he could do better. Being tired, hot and pissed from not finding the new part I said "if you think you can do better have at it". Think he said he was able to do something with the roll pin like I did but?......... That is when I walked away and have not returned LOL Dave ----

Alex, Where is the tank you have now and is this a short or long bed? Short beds (style & flare sides) used a 16 gallon side tank. Long bed style side used a 19 gallon side tank. Style side beds, short & long, used a 19 gallon rear tank. (flare side did not have a rear tank) Are you looking for the measurements for a 19 gallon side tank? I have one in storage I could get them from. The 16 (smaller) next to the 19 (larger) tanks You also did not say what year / motor truck you have and if no rear tank you could add a rear tank using factory parts for the tank (straps, cross member, hardware, filler hose / neck) and then would need to graft the door into the body. Depending on the year / motor you could use a under dash switch to switch between tanks & senders. The in dash switch you might be able to bolt in place but the wiring I think would be harder to do if placed there. Dual tank trucks used a different wiring harness, main & frame. If there is a will there is a way Yes I have added a rear tank using all factory parts (harness & dash switch) making my flare side a dual tank truck that was never an option. Dave ----

X2 I like the break down of the SM & SR as it makes more sense to me now (yes I can be a little slow on the pick up ) Dave ----

Hi! Not sure I understand correctly the question. Are you questioning about any «cabin wall finishing» behind the seat? For what I know, it’s straight on metal, with a simple moulding under the window. I think some guys put vertical carpet under the window, but pretty sure there is no factory finish behind the seat. I can be wrong… What Jeff said it what you will find on the upper level trucks as my 81 Custom and Ranger did not have even that molding under the glass. Now on the bench seat when you fold the back rest forward the back side has a thick cardboard cover to finish it off. I think I have seen you can get this board cover from places like LMC. Now I dont know what they do on the newer truck seats as I have not looked to see. Dave ----

It sounds so easy to get rod and just turn it down If only I had a way to do that I got to stop posting and get out to the garage to find this good part Dave ----

Oh how true that is Dave ----

Ok I see a few things that could be the cause. 1 is the electric pump and regulator turned all the way up. Why was this used? Who makes the pump? Where is the pump mounted? There is nothing wrong with the motor driven fuel pump and new rubber hoses between tank & hard line and hard line to pump. Is this pump wired with a relay and have safety switches in place if the motor should stop running in a crash? Thinking not on both? 2 is the return line? Our trucks did not come with a return line so where dose it pick up the fuel for return and where dose it dump it into the tank? Have you tried to run the truck with out the fuel cap in place for testing? The factory tank should be vented but if something has been changed and yours had been it not not be vented as needed. Being you have the regulator turned up I take it you have a fuel psi gauge somewhere? Any way you can mount it on the windshield to see it when driving to see what happens when it falls on its face? If it was me I think I would return the fuel system back to factory as it is a known good system. My 81 F100 has a 300 six and manual trans and it has no problems with fuel from the coldest to hottest days. Lately been in the high 90's and have had a little fuel boiling in the carb when shut down to run it a store. More so with the nose of the truck pointing down and coming back to the truck I can smell gas. I hold the throttle to the floor and after a little cranking it fires up and clears out. That is the only issue I have with the factory fuel system. Dave ----

The D7TZ is 1/2 - 13 thread the C5TZ is 9/16 - 12 thread and what I need as the block thread is 9/16. The bushing ends all look the same of the early one I just dont know what mine is. As for the 3D / machine I did not mean to machine a 3D one, do 1 or the other LOL Its what ever I could find around here that could make the part if I had a good one for measurements. Now where would I put a spare part I would not loose when I need it Dave ----

Welcome I paid $800 for my flare side in a lot worst shape. Only took me 4 years to do a cab off frame rebuild. I dont think yours needs that from what I see. Waiting to see you post in the project area with your plans and lots of pictures LOL Dave ----

Thanks Jim I seen it and posted. If I can find the good one I may give the machine shop that messed up the king pin bushings a 2nd try if the price is not to bad. I can also do a Google search to see if there are any others I have not been told of and maybe 3D printing of them? Just need good one to take measurements from is all Dave ----

Thanks Gary & Jim, Of course they dont list the size of the 1 I need but the top one on the list of the early ones may? work as it looks to have the right thread pitch. I have not measured the bushing end or how long, dont know if I can on how long as I have "fixed" this one and it is not right, to long IIRC. Slicktruckparts gave a picture to my son of the one he said fits from 65 to 83 and from what I see the threaded part is not threaded up to the nut flange where I believe mine is. But now seeing they are different just in the 70's (threads & how long) he is not right as I thought. If it has a 9/16 - 12 thread then I may get it to see if it will work. As Jim said on machining one it looks easy, dont need flats like a nut just one on each side to grab to screw it in. Just need a good one to measure from LOL Someone also said maybe have it 3D printed as they have stuff that is strong enough that older car people (Jay Leno) use to make parts when you cant get them anymore. I may install the "fixed" one and hope I find the new one and look into what it would take to have a few made for me or sell. I have spent money on more stupid things Now do I feel like going to the garage to look for it and work on the truck it is a lot cooler now so it would be the time to do so. Dave ----