FuzzFace2

Gary is right on the feed back undo only being half done. But on the fix he only gave 1 way it could be done. The DSII uses all Ford parts and would look factory stock pre-feed back. The other way is using a HEI dist. that only uses 1 - 12 volt wire to work. The hard part is finding one that is not junk. As they say you get what you pay for so check them out before buying. Dave ---- ps I dont have issues with a HEI on the 300 six motor but having that big thing sit out front on a v8 just is not right. The other thing is because it is big setting timing on v8's can be tricky.

First welcome I would guess the carb with swapped for a non-feed back one but if the feed back dist. was not swapped for a non feed back then the job was only half done. Now this is not a bad thing but we need to know if it still running the feed back dist. or not. Dose the dist. have a vacuum hose going to it from the carb or a bunch of wires only going in the side with a flat plug? Once we know we can then let you know how to go with the swap. The truck looks like a good start. Dave ----

Good to here it was something easy and is running again. Dave ----

Drill 4 holes with a battery drill then use a battery power skill saw to cut between the holes. Once out trim to size when home and make as many sparks as you want I have a drill and a saws all (large blades) that are battery if you need them. Dave ----

I just went over the posts in the link you posted and got to say WOW! On the lean at WOT I would not worry to much if it dose not bog and comes back to the 14 - 15 AFR. I would also not worry about it going rich into the 13's at times if you are mostly in the 14 - 15 AFR. I would be thrilled if my carter v1 ran in the ARF as yours dose. My take on your AFR at idle going all over the place do you heat the intake manifold floor? You have a large intake ports and that leads to low air flow. With low air flow you can have fuel falling out of the air and forming fuel drops on the intake floor. The drops then dribble into the chambers and it shows up rich on the AFR gauge. You will see this on v8 motors that use intakes with high RPM ranges, large carbs and stock cams and they cant get them to not idle rich / load up no matter what they do. That is my take on your AFR at idle. Oh wait till you get the air temp changes from cold to hot and back what the AFR gauge dose LOL Dave ---- ps if you want to see what happens to vacuum to the dist. the same time as manifold vacuum you cant Tee in but need to run a 2nd vacuum gauge.

A real truck shop is who I would try. Any of the normal shops I tried around me most looked at me like I had 3 eyes when I ask about bending beams. The shop I picked knew if it was off would need to be bent but did not have the equipment to do it and the only reason I went with them. Mine dose not pull but darts as I think it needs more caster, will not return to center, on both sides but when I get the toe plates I ordered I can check toe. I have a Blue Top box in my 81 F100 and love it. Guess you dont need me to find the clutch pedal assy. to check if you have a new set coming do you? Dave ----

Sorry I forgot about this I will try and got out to my garage to measure ASAP OK I got a measurement of 5/16" on the old rear sender I had under the bench. I would bet your money the front sender under the bench is the same 5/16" I also had to use 5/16" hose when I replaced all the rubber fuel hose on my truck. To measure I used an open end wrench. 3/8" flopped around on the tube, 5/16" did not flop around. Again sorry been bed ridden last few days after surgery. Dave ----

I'm not sure. I've had the whole system ripped apart for some time and can't think of anything that looks the part. Where is it supposed to be? YES BED OFF! I did all my tank & filler install with the bed off before I painted it and in my case even the fender off to do the last part of the fillers to make sure the over flow box would fit the angle of the fenders. Remember the rear filler I had to make up from parts as flare sides did not have rear tanks. I did have the need to drop the rear tank but got real lucky I could lower it to get the new sender out to swap a float that went bad and that was a bear! I dont have a easy way to lift the flare side bed off as there is no bed rail lips to get anything to grab onto it. The stake pockets are smooth on the inside so cant hook anything in them. Guess I could grab on the vary outside of the rail but I then need to keep the hooks from sliding to the center and the big one not hurt the paint! Dave ----

Sorry to see that will not work for you Kurt. Would be nice if we knew someone with a bead roller that could make that part but sorry to say I dont. Have you gone through a P&P to see if they have any beds that only the floor part is good on you can get a square from? Dave ----

Mat is right on no fuel relay, as the fuel pump is mounted to the left front of the motor. The truck should be a feed back system after 83, so has a computer to lean out the carb and adjust timing. A computer going bad "should not" stop the motor from running. Now if I get this right you were driving at speed and you got the pop and it stopped running. At first I would say timing chain but the 300 six motor uses timing gears. Could they strip? Yes but almost never heard of so I would kind of count that out. Even more so if the motor cranks over at normal speed as a bad chain / gears it cranks over faster than normal most of the time. Now it was posted to pop the dist. cap and see if the rotor spins and this is a good start but not a tell all. If the dist. pin broke, this has been posted to happen more times than not, the timing could be off and why the pop sound but the rotor could still spin when cranking the motor over. What needs to be done is pull #1 plug and get the motor to TDC and see where the rotor is pointing to. Just note the TDC mark on the crank will come up 2 times before #1 is at TDC. Now if you have it at TDC and the rotor is pointed 180* out then I would say you might be ok but turn it till at TDC. If the rotor is not 180* off or at TDC then the dist. needs to come out (mark dist. to block and cap for #1) and the pin holding the gear to shaft checked. Dont just look at it because when they shear it looks like the pin is still in good shape as you see the ends of the broken pin. Try to drive the pin out to make sure the pin is good. If pin is sheared you will need to try turning the oil pump shaft to make sure it is not jamming up and caused the pin to shear. Oh yea before getting into all this check for fuel & spark. Good luck Dave ----

I have a blue top in my 81 F100 and love it. Just follow the flush & air bleed and you will be all set. Dave ----

Mine always reads 10 / rich till the choke pulls off and I know at 1 time it was reading that most of my 45 min. drive to work. It was a 28* morning so the choke did not pull off like I thought it would. I have since adjusted the choke and made a change to the hot air tube to get hotter and that looks like it worked to get the choke to open sooner. I wish I know how to test the 02 as I have 2 old ones from my 02 Dodge that I would like to test and maybe put to use some how I just did not find anything on the web about any 02 and why I bought the AFR gauge I did. Sorry Dave ----

Welcome Chris I have seen you over on FTE as I also hang out there too under the same name FF2. If you want to be on the map just lest us know a zip code. We do want to know what you have done to the truck. With pictures or it did not happen Dave ----

Good to hear after the winter nap it woke up ready to play again. It's been 7 years since I had to put my play toys to nap for the winter. We get maybe 3 months that it's cold but vary little snow or ice and if we do its here for maybe 24 to 48 hours and gone. I also use my truck for the weekly trash runs if no ice / snow so I dont need to nap it. To rub it in more we have cars & coffee shows all year long here. Thing is when its cold out (winter) my work hours get crazy and its hard to get to any C&C and shows Dave ----

I did not need to get a wrench on that nut for the cab mounts they came right out after spraying them down for weeks. Dave ---- I did not pull mine apart or replace them but my guess is that nut is made as part of the washer and the tube that runs inside the rubber bushings that is then put through the frame. Then the other half of the rubber bushing is put on the top of the tube and another washer. The bolt then is put down through the assy. and tighten till the assy gets tight. You cant go to tight as the assy. stops when the tube hits the upper washer I think. The bushing is king of a press fit and why a jig needs to be used the get the bushings off the frame. Because of the press fit is why the bottom nut / washer / tube dose not spin when undoing the bolt from the top. You know I dont remember even looking at the nuts on the bottom if they would spin when undoing them. Good to hear they came off with no issues. Dave ----

The bracket for the tube is lower in the filler so if maybe just the "no lead" door was the only thing punched and the bracket is still there. I say this because 1 of the "no lead" doors was missing from 1 of the necks but the tube bracket was still there. The other thing is unless you took it apart and know the tube is not there it could have come undone at the top and is sitting lower in the fill neck and cant be seen. I seen a lot of that posted when guys get in to replace tanks. I think over the years that tube shrinks and pulls out of the top bracket and when filling liquid goes down both and you have kick back. When I repaired mine I made sure both tubes where longer than need be so they would stay put and not pull out. Been 2+ years and a lot of fill ups only had an issue 1 time. I gave up and filled the other tank only to flip the switch to see how much fuel was in the tank that would not take any and it was full Dave ----

Now that I am not in as much pain (gal bladder out) and going back over this I see you said copper to replace the line and it reminded me someone did this (other forum?) but used PEX pipe in think 1/2" size. I cant remember if he used yellow or blue but he tested it in gas before he used it to make sure it would be OK and not melt.The hardest part I see is bending it and then fitting it inside the filler hose and hooking everything back up where it needs to be. So that maybe something to look into also. Dave ----

If it dose not have chains for the tail gate its not a real flare side Dave ----

I also have not had the 3 dots and hope just unplug and re-plug will fix it. I would not wrap the extra wire around the booster bracket as it has a lot of sharp edges that could cut wires. Because I have a 300 six the exh is only on the right side so the wire comes in on that side. Once inside I coiled it up and tucked it behind the dash. Dave ----

Maybe he did not want to pull up the door sills, kick panels and the rug? But that is the way you get to the bolt. Dave ----

I did not need to get a wrench on that nut for the cab mounts they came right out after spraying them down for weeks. Dave ----

Mine still worked also and is a back up but I dont keep it in the truck as I dont need it leaking more inside it. I would not even look into trying to re-potting it. The reason I replaced it was I thought it was a cause for truck to jerk and the dash turn lights to flash at the same time. It did not fix the issue and have since found the AC compressor kicking on & off really fast, low on charge. Dave ----

Good to hear you are getting it dialed in. I agree on the AFR gauge. Now that I have my timing curve good I can start on the carb and leaning it out and hope the MPG comes up. Dave ----

As Mat said it was on my rear tank on my flare side and if you know our trucks there was never a rear tank option on flare sides. If you look you will see I used hose clamps on it so it would not come undone. I also used exh pipe to join the outer hose together with clamps too. I dont see why you could not use it on the front tank also. I will say with a working vent hose you can fill the tanks as fast as the pump will pump. Dave ----

I can get that tomorrow when I get home from work as I still have my old senders. Going to bed as I have to get up at midnight for work. Dave ----