FuzzFace2

X2 on too far for a hunt truck. I think if I was using the paint you are I would have gone with roller & paint brush for the places the roller could not get to. Wet sand & buff should come out pretty good. Check Youtube for roller paint jobs. Only time you need to prime is over bare metal you do not need to prime over the the color base that is on the truck. Heck I did not do 2 stage on my 2 color (red & white) as it was way more work than I wanted to do. Painting it 3 times = red-1 white-2 clear-3 and if not done right would need to wet sand and buff NOT ME! Mine is single stage and no wet sanding & buffing and it looks good. I did use auto paint. Then again I knew how to do this so did not need the learning curve you did. Dave ----

Man that had to hurt cutting into the bed side Kurt, do you have the EFI exh manifolds on the motor yet as I dont remember? If so what Y pipe you using, single Y or the duel pipe that came on some trucks that run duels back to the muffler and 1 tail pipe out? As you know I am running the EFI manifold you gave me to a single Y pipe. I have not run a cat since I put the truck together, so its just the mid pipe you cut for the different wheel base trucks. Now I just replaced the exh system because the muffler inlet was pulling out and caused a leak. I went with 94 system, mid pipe / muffler / tail pipe, as that is what the Y pipe was for IIRC and it is a little larger than the 80's pipes. I did switch the quite muffler for a Thrush welded for a little better sound and I like it. I did find that the Y pipe is a little larger than the mid pipe, cat must take care of that? So I had to use an adapter but the rest was a bolt in.... well I did have to cut off the trail pipe wire hangers and use the type they used on my truck. If you want to hear and see it let me know and I can swing by. Dave ----

Like Cory I dont know of any 240 head that had FI or air injection so I would call that a 300 FI head. The FI head will have more manifold threaded hole than a non-FI head and if you can I would use them other wise just run what the non-FI head uses for the manifolds. I am running FI exh manifolds with the log intake on a non-FI head so 2 less bolts and no issues so far. I have not heard of a FI head upping the compression like the 240 head but as posted I seen the 240 to be .5 so nothing to worry about on the gas you run. If them holes are not needed cap them as pointed out. Dave ----

If the gas is old then any adjustments are almost for nothing as old gas dose not burn good as you are finding out. Also if 1 tank has good gas and the other bad make sure the switching valve is working right. It could be stuck pulling from the bad gas tank. Dave ----

Thanks Gary, won't be buying two MeterMatches so will just figure out a way to make the sending units work. If the gauge reads right at empty but not full, over full, bending the float arm is not going to get it right as pointed out the empty reading will now be off. You need to move the full level arm stop lower so the arm will not go up as far. Again I dont care were it reads when full but I dont want to be running out of gas when showing 1/8 tank. Had a Toyota LC that happened all the time on after the 4th time, each heading to a station, I bent the arm to read empty with a few gallons in the tank. Dont remember what it read when full as I cant remember ever filling it, kid and no money LOL Dave ----

Got you on the EGR mine is not working and I am adjusting the timing to get rid of pinging. The plug, I dont think there is a need to adjust it 99% of the time and with out a AFR gauge dont know if you could adjust. If you did not put the plug back in would the air filter to carb gasket seal it? I have not looked that close at mine to see if it would seal. I need to pullmy carb apart again and check it out as it may also be missing a part inside? I do have a AFR gauge and at times the reading just do look right and why I need to open it up again. Never thought of Pine Sol and I have a ultrasonic cleaner too. Dave ----

Nice project I love it I dont remember what is different between a 250 and the 292 six as it have been way to many years since I messed with them. Do you know the make of the AXU. trans? I take it is low / direct / high? Dave ----

Like Cory I tested mine before the bed went back on. I did not care where it reads when full as long as it reads right when close to empty. Tanks empty the needles are below the mark. With 5 gallons in each tank the needles come up even to the mark and that is good with me. When the needle in on the empty mark I still have 5 gallons to get to a station. Now when full both tanks read above full and I dont have a problem with that as I will not run out of gas when full like I would if the gauge was say 1/8 tank and not reading right. If I wanted to fix the full I would bend the arm stop on the full swing so it would not go up as far but keep the empty stop where it is. Now if I can keep the temp gauge from reading differently at times I would be happy. One time it can be on the low line and the next time in the middle, I like the middle as I think the motor has some heat in it. No it is not running cold as the heat will cook you out. The sender is new but the connection may be dirty and need to check it. Dave ----

FYI you can get that check valve & the rubber at most parts stores in the help area as it was a common part back in the day on the hooks. I would also replace the rubber hose just make sure it is rated for vacuum as gas hose may get sucked closed and no vacuum would get to the booster. Dave ----

Kurt, good to hear you are plugging away on the truck. At first I was thinking, you are still running a carb so there should be fuel in the bowl so how could it be a fuel issue. Then thinking were did you pick up the signal for the electric pumps to run? If off a IGN signal could it be pulling too much power? Then reading the whole post I see you did other work, dont you know only do 1 thing at a time LOL and left a cap off. Again good you found the issue. About the power are you still running the 1G / 2G low out put at idle ALT? I wonder now with the electric fuel pump and if lights are on, think you said you dont use AC?, what is the ALT putting out? Dont want you to get stuck somewhere with a dead battery and more so when you get the EFI installed. Now that the weather is getting nicer will the truck be ready for some outings? I dont want to be the only 80's Ford truck at them LOL Dave ----

Being its a Holley have you checked the fuel level in the bowls? Some of the new Holley's have see through sight plugs others you have to pull the screws out. Have something to put out a fire if one should start before doing any work on the carb. When the checking I like to set the level just below the opening and when I shack the truck the fuel will just start to come out. That is the first thing that is needed when adjusting Holley's. Is the choke closing when cold and opening all the way when up to temp? Then when up to temp you can then adjust the idle speed & mix screws. If it still stalls when you let off the throttle we can dig deeper, what is the motor pulling for vacuum at idle in gear? Power valve should be half that as a start and adjust from there. Dave ----

Cory has it covered. Also note around this time some pick up trucks did not come with rear bumpers from the factory so it was a dealer install. I think state laws were just coming in that a rear bumper was needed and why the factory was just starting to install them. Yes the flare side bumpers are shorter that the style side bumpers. Other that being wider the style side will fit a flare side using the brackets that fit the bumper, frames are all the same. My brother said the flare he got some of the parts from out in Cali. had a step bumper and side it did not stick out the sides? I have never seen one that fit a flare side, he though it could have been from a Chevy S10? Guess he had never seen one before either? BTW the thin flare bumper did not have the plate bolted to it. There was a bracket that bolted to the left side of the rear sill. You will see 2 holes where it bolted that the plate bolted to. Dave ----

I use the nut splitter When in the field and no battery powered tools this is the go to tool Dave ----

I hang out on that "other site" in the older truck area at times (like to see what others are doing) so that is how I knew of it. That name is "Express Bed" Dave ----

From what I have seen posted the 9ft is more rare than the 8ft & 6ft beds even being made from the 50's to the 70's. How many have you seen? LOL I also think there was another name for that 9ft bed but cant think of it ATM edit Express bed look it up Dave ----

It's all good, my son dose get around to different sites I am also on and having the same first name it is easy to get mixed up. Yep that would be a sign it was painted at least the lower part of that fender LOL Any signs of the maroon paint? Maybe the back of the cab between cab & bed? I dont have one of the cab but here is the bed from the maroon truck before I cut it up for and floor used on my flare side. The other side of the bed was wrecked from the roll over and why I used it. This truck was repainted at least 1 time from what I could tell. Dave ----

I'm wondering if by saying M/T for the 2wd if that also applies to the 4wd? Also, compare their EGR parts. Most are the same: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n113528/Calibration_Parts_List_1.jpghttps://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n113528/Calibration_Parts_List_49.jpg Do you need the EGR working for smog and if not why do you want it working? I have my reasons but would like to hear yours. As for missing 1 of the plugs at the air horn would it be the 1 over the adjusting screw for the needle rod? Bill said you can pop that plug out to adjust the rod & seat to get the AFR where you want it. With most other carbs you have to pull them apart and change a jet. That carb & EGR plate look nice and new. Dave ----

I also run the EFI manifolds, Y pipe and stock carb but as most I did this as part of my truck rebuild so dont know what change it made as I did not drive the truck before that. I got to say I am happy with the out come so far. Dave ----

I have not lived on L.I. or Fl. but my son has who also goes by David, not a jr. On the colors the truck came with I dont think I have seen the combo before. This is candy apple red And this would be the maroon I think On the maroon you can see the moldings that part the 2 colors. I dont see that on your truck just the upper molding. It also does not look like it was repainted in the pictures but is also hard to tell but no over spray of maroon in the door jambs. You have done a lot of work so far keep the pictures coming Dave ---- ps to give you hope this is what mine started off as

I am a little late coming back to the party The real issue with the feed back system is not the 2 big items, carb & dist. but all the little things that make the computer happy and to let it make adjustments as needed. Have just 1 of the 3 relays / valves on the valve cover go bad and the system goes in to "limp mode". Now try and find the needed part and you can get a lot older before you find one and it will most likely be used and who knows if it works? That is why if there is no smog check to just scrap the feed back system and go old school carb & dist. Dave ----

Hello, Im Dave from North Carolina, previously Conn. I am up near Raleigh just a few hours from you. It is nice you are doing this for your dad. My dad is no longer with us and I wish he could see what I did on the rebuild (cab off frame) of my truck as he thought me all I know to do the body work & paint. We are here to help you the best we can to get your project on the road be it where to get parts to how to do something. For paint / dye for the inside get SEM products. Before painting wash the part with soap & water 3 times before doing anything to it. SEM makes a spray that helps the paint stick to the part, get it and use it. On the dash pad they make a topper that fits pretty good and you really need to look close to see if it is a topper or a new pad. New pads are like $500 so the topper is the way to go. Welcome to the forum and lets see some pictures Dave ----

I like mine to run at the half way make as I know the motor has some heat in it. At the 1/4 mark I think it would be running to cool and not burn off any condensate. Mine bounces between 1/4 and almost 1/2 and I have replaced the stat 2 times, and sender once. I have seen it posted that the push on sender connector may be dirty. He used a Qtip and cleaner to get into the push on part then pinched it closed just a little and he then had the gauge reading higher. I have not done that yet as I keep forgetting to when under the hood. Dave ----

I have studied your setup in other posts and considered doing that. BUT I am afraid to try to remove the manifold for fear of breaking studs. IF I were to get the manifold off, I could actually try to fix the OEM passage. I have thought on different stuff too. I may try to slide that heat shield UP to hold in the heat that starts on the down pipe. It gets warm, but not too hot to touch. That's I've seen yet. Some ding dong in the past has the dipstick tube hoseclamped to the drivers side manifold and I can say without hesitation that it gets HOT to the top. That's why I think I might try to move that tube over and clamp it to the manifold. OR move the Dorman things up to the side of exh manifold. Just possibilities. Adding that shield in front of choke linkage seems to have helped as well. I've done some with the air cleaner housing off, but have got it to a point where I'm starting and driving with the housing on. I have it working pretty well. Wish I had understood the choke arm adjuster before I put the carb on. Can't see the V on the high idle cam with it low and behind the choke housing. Having to work by feel. All this would have been easier a few years ago. For several reasons. So, I can almost drive off immediately. It takes a few seconds to catch and run good. It sits and stumbles a little unless I give it about 3 presses on the gas. Not enough fuel from the accelerator pump? Idk. It seems to be adjusted to the proper hole. But there is a gap between the arm and the post. That might bear investigation after I get the choke working as a whole. But usually, once it catches properly, it's ready to go by the time I get settled with belt on and my "stuff" secured in the console. Coffee or drink, phone, my "huffers" (I vape). I'll be glad to get all this done so I can put all the screwdrivers and tools up that are floating in cab and console. the closer I get it to working correctly, the more tools it takes? It's frustrating, rewarding, and educational all at hte same time. I'll be a local carb expert by the time I get it all figured out. I posted it for you and others if they come across this on a search for "choke". Is there a way to run copper tubing around the manifold? I dont know if there is room between the manifold & block? A thought you dont need to make loops around the manifold you could make long loops along the out side front to back a few times. Maybe you can slip mechanical wire between block & manifold to hold the tubing close to the manifold. Anything to get more heat to the tubing, like the header wrap I used. It does take time to "dial in" carb adjustments like you and timing curves that I am on now. Dave ----

I should type faster or shorter as Gary beat me to it Get the right tools, the HF ones worked for me and still in good shape to use again. Besides the puller can also be used on steering wheels when needed. There was NO WAY my balencer was coming off with out the right puller That is 2 for the Cloyes chains Dave ----

When I saw the first picture I was like NOOOOOOO See the 4 bolt holes on the center section, that is were the puller bolts go to pull it off. The puller has 3 fingers that the bolts go through and the screw in the center like you have. Think I got mine from HF or was it one I had in my tool box? https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-62620.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=11852570863&campaignid=11852570863&utm_content=132226199429&adsetid=132226199429&product=62620&store=2970&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIubr6kdDp9QIVKhbUAR3bSgTAEAQYASABEgKScfD_BwE Either way I had to find bolts to fit the balencer as the ones I had with my kit did not fit. Also make sure you clean all the dirt out of the bolt holes before threading in the bolts. Once I knew the thread pitch I ran a tap in the holes and used shop air to blow clean. You also need an installer tool to put it back on DO NOT use the crank bolt to pull it in place. https://www.harborfreight.com/pulley-remover-and-installer-set-12-pc-63068.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789281718&adsetid=117789281718&product=63068&store=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIi67Pw9Dp9QIVU9yGCh0XVAj7EAQYASABEgId8PD_BwE Took a little bit to figure out how it worked but it went on easier then coming off. On the chain it dose look to be a replacement but being you are there and the play I would replace it. My 300 six uses gears, no chain, so all I had to do was pull the cover to replace the timing cover gasket that was leaking oil out the top. I have always used Cloyes chains when replacing was needed. The only thing I can think to watch out for is if the chain for your year is set up as retard timing, think the 460's are this way dont know if the others are or not? Dave ----