FuzzFace2

Thanks Dave, Interesting to read through that thread. Seems like a funny coincidence that, like me, the op and at least one other poster reported the issue on the passenger side only. Well, I guess I have some measuring to do today lol I did not read through it this time to see what the fix was but did remember seeing it. Hope it helps Dave ----

Nope, what you see is all they were. I can't understand why Ford went to these in the first place. Cant use a coat hanger to unlock the door like you can on the pin type:nabble_smiley_evil: Dave ----

Welcome Once you get the picture posting thing down post up a picture or 2 little farther away so we can see the stripes but just from what I see not factory. They could of been dealer installed as a lot of that happened back then, anything to sell a car or truck. Dave ----

Hi Cory, Ok, my left side caliper has about the same kind of fit where the key and spring need to be tapped in with a hammer. Seems odd to me that the fit on the other side is so different! The shim that I added takes all the play out of the caliper, but it's still possible for me to cajole the key and spring in by hand. Welding the key is something I hadn't considered, but I'll consider it now lol! The bolt is the correct one with the bulge just under the cap flange. I had also been considering making my own bolt with a bigger "bulge"... In either case, I'd still like to understand what the cause is. Again, it seems odd that there would be wear on these parts that would cause that much play between them... Maybe the spindle got bent out of shape somehow? Lucas Try this link https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1498309-brake-caliper-falls-off-1981-f-250-dual-piston-caliper.html Here is the search link if it comes up https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/search.php?searchid=32536833 Dave ----

Maybe the screws are metric? Dave ----

Well I could only take watching half the video and I still dont know "why"? I guess it is because they could? Dave ----

Well sorry to hear it fell through. Then again when you call him and say you have the report he may may have a change of hart. Heck he could of just had a fight with his wife / girl friend / ? and it just spilled over when you showed up. Also who sells / buys a car or truck and not bargain? Its all part of the game Dave ----

FYI that is a 1981 truck being it was built 12/80. Anything built Sept and later is the next years model. Also in the lower left hand corner has "1981" Be happy its a 81 and not a 80 as the 80 has a lot of 1 off things going on with it like wiring. Mine was built 11/80 making it a 81 model year truck and also has the "1981" in the lower left corner. Dave ----

Thanks Dave. Yes, I'll be checking the connector for the O-ring but I just fear the joint is compromised, as it leaked there previously. I put a new O-ring in last Summer too. Regarding the new condenser, would you have a link where one of these was installed? I'm not following the pipe thing and I like pictures....lol! Been surfing and not finding anything. Lets see what we can do for pictures Here it is installed If you look closely you can just make out the pipe between the lower condenser brackets (far laft & right) and the center grille / latch bracket (center) and the lower radiator support. The condenser only has to be spaced out for the condenser tubes on the ends at the bottom to clear the support. The center support then needs to be spaced out to clear the condenser. Nothing has to be done up top, its a bolt in. Dave ----

I'm wondering about that too. I'm not getting any noise and there doesn't seem to be any play in the hub though... I'll have to have a closer look. One thing I just thought of is that since I repaired it last, I'm pretty sure I've been driving around with the hubs locked full-time (which I normally do in winter). The other day I unlocked the hubs for the first time since and it was shortly after that the problem recurred. Think that could that have something to do with it? There is no way I can see the hubs being locked or un-locked to be the cause. If so it would be happening to a lot of trucks. I have to ask a stupid question are you sure you are installing the spring on the right side of the key? The spring should go on the side away from the bolt so the spring is pushing the key to the bolt. I would also say once put back together try using a hammer & punch to push the key out to see if you can see what might be happening. Is this on a 250 truck and have dual piston calipers? Was the caliper replaced not long ago? I want to say I remember reading something (other forum?) about caliper(s) falling off. Dave ----

Yes Lincoln IIRC p130 120 volt and can be flux or gas, I have it set up for gas and what you want if doing sheet metal. Now what I have seen posted on the name brand machines be it Lincoln, Hobart, etc. from the big box stores is a different welder than you would get from a welding supply store. So say I buy a Lincoln from Home Depot and something happens like maybe the wire feed motor burns up. You now go to your local welding supply with the unit and or machine numbers to order the part thing is they may not be able to. Even though it is a Lincoln it was built for HD spec. and some of the parts are only for that machine. I did not know that and got my first Lincoln MIG with gas, from HD. When I had work done on my house it got legs and walked. The contractor paid for it so I went to the local welding supply and got a new one. Just something to think about when buying something like this. BTW I have not had any issues with this welder and I have had it think going on 20 years but I dont use it everyday either. As for a 3 in 1 I think it depends on how much you will be using it and on what. What are the duty cyl on it when doing each type of welding @ what amps? I would guess the DC would be low for each type of welding. I take it the TIG dose not have a foot pedal? One day I hope to have a good TIG machine with foot control. Dave ----

Yes on the red machine, I do remember reading about that post somewhere and sorry I did not answer it there. We all have to start somewhere with a new skill like welding. My red machine runs off 120 volts and uses gas and a thin wire for sheet metal welding. Mine was bought for sheet metal work so why the 120v. I did try flux core wire but it is a little thicker so have to run higher amps and has a lot more splatter and clean up. Once you have a MIG welder you will wonder how you did with out one for so long! If you have a fair size air compressor then painting could also be done. You dont have to buy the best HVLP gun out there and even more so if you are just starting out. I used a HF old school suction gun for for primer and for painting I got Eastwood Starting Line 3 gun kit. I believe if the user is any good then he can use any gun to spray and get a great job out of it. As you said "not opposed to screwing things up while learning." and that's all it takes. Dave ----

As we all know the cheaper we can get it the better I would try for under $1000, maybe $800 cash for the package truck & 460 motor. 1, It's not running so cant take for a road test, needs a transmission and who knows what else just as a start? Fuel system will need going through from sitting depending how long, just a drain & fresh gas or full rebuild? Then if it needs floors, rockers, cab corners, etc. Good luck we want more flare side owners on here Dave ---- edit I wounder if that is a later 81, after Sept build it is a 82, as I dont see FORD across the hood? But I also dont see the F100 on the fenders or were they painted over? So maybe the hood & fenders were replaced? Rust or crash?

Welcome to the forum. I paid $800 for my 81 F100 flare side 300 / granny 4sp to do weekly trash runs. It ran but had a miss, on the vary short road test it did fire so knew it was a plug or wire. Front steering was shot big time. When looked over the truck I did see some rust but guess I did not look that close The inside was even worst! When home and found the motor to be good and looking it over better I then started to pull it apart. The start of a 4 year cab off frame rebuild. I also bought a 81 style side long bed parts truck (rolled over) for $400, less motor, doors, tail gate and some dash parts. A lot of that truck was used to rebuild my flare side. I guess I ended up spending about what they are asking for that truck but 1 of mine did move under its own power. Note I did not say drive I also think the asking price a little high not hearing it run or even drive. I would say right off it may need a transmission with no reverse. Might get lucky and the floor shifter needs adjusting. Fuel system rebuild, new tank as you can never get them clean of old sludge. And most likely rebuild the brake system. What is it you want to end up with and who will be doing all the work? Just a project to have fun with and keep busy? Just get it going and drive it for dump runs? Make it look a little better and a nice driver to use as needed on weekends and maybe to / from work? Or a full cab off frame rebuild? This can still be driven as a nice driver or a show only truck. Mine was done, all by me, as a nice driver, weekly trash runs and I take it to shows as a plus. It was given the name garbage truck by a member because that is why I bought it and the weekly runs Sorry so long but just wanted to show you what can be done when you are a little (ok lot) crazy Again welcome Dave ----

I got to check my system as I cleaned the dye off everything so I hope to find the leak now fix it and charge it again. As for your leak I would see if a new O-ring would fix it as that is what most of them need at connections. Oh no the condenser has not changed on the replacement but is it not that big a deal to get the new one in. Get some longer bolts for the bottom and lower grille / latch brace and think 3 1/2" long pipe that will fit over the bolts. The pipe is used as spacers to space out the bottom of the condenser & brace. Dave ----

Our beloved drink a lot but not that much! Good luck with that issue. If your lucky, this could be a simple wiring problem? As part of the rebuild I replaced both senders on my truck. Shortly after being on the road the rear tank sender also stopped working I run the rear tank dry and then sucked it up and dropped the tank. Now I did not want OR need to drop it all the way. I was able to drop it down enough to sneak the sender out. Once out I found the float took on fuel and sunk to the bottom. I want to say based on how it was dropping either the wire came off or the float is bad. My fix was to use the float from the old sender. Yes I still have them and its over 2 years now. Dave ----

Thats what I was going to say dry ice and most of the time comes right off. Dave ----

I would try a little electric contact cleaner. Spray it up in there and move the switch back and forth. It could have a little dirt on that set of contacts and the cleaner & moving may fix it. Dave ----

Yes this is the way to test if the wire is shorted or not. Gary had you shorting the wire to ground and this would also peg the needle to hot if the key was left on for a little bit. I have never seen the oil / fuel / temp gauge go from 0 to full when turning on the key even with the wires shorted to ground, they move up about the same speed they do down when the key is turned off. I wonder if the printed board is bad to send full volts to the temp gauge? I dont think I would worry about the part numbers when getting a new printed board, just get it for the cluster type. lights / gauges / gauges w/tach. Dave ----

I think Rocky will like being driven more once the little list things are fixed. Keep at it and before you know it will be done. Dave ----

I do have dye in the system but I did not know it was leaking till it would not turn on the compressor and when I checked with the light the dye was all over the place so could not see just where it was coming from. I have since cleaned off the dye and put a little charge back in the system. I now have to run it and look for the leak but I did not want to run the AC till I had time to look as I did not want the dye blowing all over again. Dave ----

Thanks guys The truck did its trash duties before I went to the show. Later the wife and I took the truck out to get dinner. It's fun sitting looking out the people that stop and look it over. Gary, yes I have a photo album of the work that was done. First few people that asked about the truck did not believe I did all the work so I now show pictures. Johnathan, I don't if you want me helping on the AC. I have been chasing leaks since I got it working. I am using 134A. Replaced condenser, dryer and all but 1 hose. Also new green o rings but they seam to leak. When it works it is great but only for a few months then I check for more leaks. Dave ----

Now that it is getting warmer out the shows are really picking up. The 7th Good Guys show in Raleigh at the fair grounds, 30 mim. from me was yesterday as was a show 15 min. in the other direction from me. Some of the car club members went to the Good Guys show and others like me to the other show. It was put on by the South Johnston Upland Wildlife Federation. It was a truck, tractor & car exhibition. No enter fee but they would take a donation. Nice little gathering. Tractors were small lawn tractors made into weight pullers to older large farm tractors. Tractors out numbered the cars / trucks 2 to 1. I dont know how they broke down the tractors but they had cars & truck class and it was people's choice. For a $1 you could vote for your choice. So if you had $5 you have 5 choices. I took 2nd place in the classic truck class. I know there were 3 of us as I think the 4 truck came late. The other 2 were really nice, 86 C10 4x2 pick up and a 87 K10 4x4 pick up that looked like it came off the show room floor other than the steel plate on the bed floor. The 4th if it was in was a 69 Ford F150. Body was pretty good for the age but the engine bay was pretty dirty showing all the years of dirt LOL The car class had really nice cars in it also. I know a husband & wife next to our group took 1st & 2nd with their 2 cars, 60's Ford & Chevy. For 1st / 2nd place we got picture frames with the award in it and they said they would reach out with something else when they came in. It was a nice outing laid back and small where you could walk around and talk to others. When at the show we heard of a 3rd show between our show & the Good Guys that had a pretty good showing of cars & trucks but we were set on going to this one already. Dave ----

I dont like the surge brakes either. I have grown to like the all electronic controllers but you have to get the good ones, read $$$ that use a pendulum not the junk timed ones. Dave ----

Little late up date. It looks like your unit is little newer than Bill's and what I have dealt with. On Bill's you turn the knob that maves when you step on the brakes. Yours has that wheel that dose the same thing. The spring I was talking of dose not come with the controller it is an extra. Depending on what you pull you can try with out it and see what happens. If the trailer is unloaded or is light on weight and locks up the trailer brakes then you will need the spring resister. I tried Etrailer looking for it but did not find it?So maybe you will be ok? Dave ----