FuzzFace2

IIRC there are some cars that use that same type of light housing but in silver or black not clear like that one. I would have to look at mine but think it is silver and think from a Ford Granada. Dave ----

Yes I have also hear / told the same thing so I dont add cold, cool maybe but not cold water to a hot motor. Now the thing is I NEVER OPEN A HOT COOLING SYSTEM for fear of getting burned from hot coolant blowing out so the motor would be pretty cool before adding anything to the radiator anyway. I wonder if it had something to do with how the blocks & heads were cast back in the day? Then again I have had the heads on my 02 Dodge show cracks when pulled and it never over heated and I have had the truck since new. Dave ----

What you are seeing are not "service ports" but "service valves". Pull the caps off and you will see square shafts for the valves. You had factory AC the the valves were used to close off the system from the compressor so you would not lose any charge other than in the compressor when you needed to change it out. My 81 F100 has the same valves but I have never used them. IIRC there is a high side service port on the hose by the compressor. The low side service port is over by the evap coil & dryer. Dave ----

I should have said I run a Blue Top in my 81 F100 and love it. Dave ----

Thank you Gary that would work for a 81 F100 with a York compressor but I am running the later FS6 compressor. Also when I bought mine it had a paper & sticker that they come in 3 different ways. 1- fully filled with the right oil 2- half full with the right oil 3- filled with shipping oil that all of it needs to be drained and refilled with the right type & amount of oil. IIRC the paper listed the amount of oil needed to fill the compressor. To drain it you had to pull the shipping plugs and turn it upside down to drain it. When it stopped dripping you needed to turn the crank to get the next chamber to drain. You keep doing this till no more drops come out. When filling you poured in a little and turned the crank then a little more and turn and more ... till the amount they wanted in was in. Thing was not to pour in to much as to hydro lock the compressor when it first started. I need to find that paper Dave ----

I have severe trust issues with steering systems having dealt with perpetual issues with a 4Runner rack and pinion and my Dodge's steering box. How robust is the Bronco/F150 steering box? In all the years driving, started 1976, and all different things I have only had 1 that lost total steering. A 76 Ford E350 van with a 460 /C6. All 3 bolts broke as I pulled into a buddies drive. Hit the lip and heard them "POP" and went to straighten out and would not! 68 Dodge van they bolted the box to sheet metal that was spot welded to the floor. In high school the teacher was going to take it for parts and got around the corner of the school and backed it back up to the garage door. He said the steering had way to much play and in checking why found the floor was rusted away so the box was just kind of floating LOL. He used vise grips to hold it in place so I could drive it to work and back in the next day so he could weld it into place. I had a he11 of a time driving it to work / home as the steering was to tight now LOL Used a tow truck with a bad rag joint to tow some cars that was a show too! Other than the van I have never had anything fail totally. Dave ----

After reading what Gary posted I would go with what he posted as I forgot about the under hood light and that would be hot all the time. I will have to look at my turn, still in vac mode LOL, to see what I am using as I know I used 1 or 2 of them wires. But other wise they dont get hooked to anything. Dave ----

I dont have a clue who made mine, plain white boxes w/PN only. I have had them for long time but only used little more than 2 years and other than the float no issues. I want to say I got mine through A1Auto on the web. They were the only ones that had a 16 gallon side tank sender at the time so I got the rear 19 gallon sender from them at the same time. Dave ----

Mike welcome to the forum. 2 things it will be asked where you from, zip is good enough, as we have a members map if you would like to be placed on it. 2nd maybe one of the admins can move this out to the main new members area or somewhere where it will be seen by more people that can help. Oh a 3rd do you have smog check where you are so all has to be in place and working or just in place for looks but not working? I ask because if you dont have smog check some of the stuff can be bypassed. Dave ----

I hate to say "I told you so" but I told you so That little bird chirping noise under power from a stop and getting faster as you go faster is a sure sign of a bad joint. I have also had them vibrate when taking off from a stop with out noise too. As Gary said I bet a whole lot of vibration & noise will be gone now. Dave ----

Hold on there! They want 10 and pour out 4oz becasue that is what is in the rest of the system, hoses, dryer, evap coil and condenser. What if you are installing all new parts or flushed out the old parts (evap, condenser & hoses) (but new dryer) then what do you add? How much oil is in the dryer or other parts replaced? I just redid my system and I flushed out the hoses and condenser (they were about a year old) but installed a new compressor, evap coil & dryer so I added a full 10 oz to the system. IIRC they wanted you to add some, dont remember how much now but can look it up, to the compressor (add some and rotate and add more rotate etc.) and the rest to the system in a way the compressor would not get a slug of oil. They did not want it added to the dryer so think I added to to the evap coil after the dryer so it would have time to even out through the coil before getting to the compressor. So far knock on wood my system is cooling pretty good but have not used the truck much since I did this last fix (I hope for good) but my son had to use the truck over the weekend when I was away and said it was blowing cold so I am happy with that. So something to think about when adding oil to the AC system. Dave ----

John, What you may have seen when you came out of the store was what is called Heat Soak. That is where the heat from the motor soaks into the non-moving coolant and the temp will rise on the coolant but once the motor is started and the coolant moving a bit the temp should level out to normal. This is normal for any motor & cooling system. Also the 19x* stat is normal too. My 300 six calls for a 192* stat and is what I run. I also have AC so have the larger radiator and shroud, 300 motors with out AC did not get a shroud. I am also told the AC trucks got a clutch fan but I am running a good old direct drive fan and it cools just fine so I dont mess with it. The only time I may see the temp climb a little is if I am sitting for a long light, AC on and it is in the high 90's but once I start moving it comes right down. You also dont want the motor to run too cool as you will not boil off condensation and that can hurt your motor. Dave ----

I dont know if the 81 AC harness is the same as yours or not, I am thinking not but ......... So first the 81/ 300 six harness for AC is a plug & play to a non-AC truck. On a non-AC truck IIRC the blower motor wiring behind the dash is plugged together to work the blower motor. You unplug this connection and plug in the AC harness and a wire or to to the HVAC control IIRC and the rest go out thru the firewall to the low PSI switch, carb kicker switch and the compressor. Now why I say not is the early & later model compressors use different plugs and I think between six & v8 the compressors are in different placed? Also I dint know what EFI and non-EFI would do for the kicker going to the carb like on mine to raise the idle when the AC is on? So as Gary said it mine be best to fix what you have unless you can find a harness for a truck just like yours year & motor size. I know you can get the compressor pig tail for the later ones as I had to get one as I am using a later compressor and 2 wire clutch (power & ground). The 81 york compressor was a barrel type plug and the clutch grounded thru the body of the unit. The carb kicker wire has a spade plug on it to fit the solenoid on the carb. I dont have a solenoid (yet but have not been looking) so the wire just hangs out in the engine bay for now. Hope that helps a little. Dave ----

I guess I was lucky with the 2 new senders I installed when rebuilding my truck. Now what I did do before putting any gas in either tank was to turn on the key to see where the needles sat with nothing in the tanks. That was just below the empty line. I then added 5 gallons of gas to each tank and did the same thing, key on to see where the needles sat. That was just on the empty line. So I know when the needle is on the line with either tank I still have 5 gallons left in the tanks. I then filled both tanks and check where the needles sat. They are just above the full line when both tanks are full. I really dont care where the needles are when full, some dont like it above the full line. I have never ran out of gas with the needles over the full line LOL. Now it will take a little time for the needles to drop to the full line or a little below them but once it hits a certain point it dose drop pretty fast for both tanks but again I know when the needles hit the empty line I have 5 gallons left in the tanks. I may run the first tank down to the line but I dont run the 2nd tank down that low just in case I cant get to a station to fill up so I dont run out of gas. You may want to carry a gallon or 2 of gas and run the tank dry and put in just enough to get back to the garage to check the sender. This way you will know just how much fuel you have in the tank and where the needle should be, like just below the line or on the line. Oh I did have 1 of the new senders float take on fuel shortly after the truck was on the road. I was able to snake the sender out by dropping the tank a little and swapping the floats from 1 of my old senders. Dave ----

I had a car many years ago that the rubber line from tank to hard line did not leak but did suck air and would only "run out of gas" when getting on the high way and you had to climb a good size hill and it did not have a long "get up to speed" lane. Like you because you are using a lot of fuel / throttle to getup the hill is when this will show up. Like Gary said I would do the rubber lines first and see what happens. if it still happens then Iwould drop the tank and see what that looks like along with the fuel pick up sock. Dave ----

I'm afraid I don't. I've never heard of any universal charcoal vapor canister like you might have an aftermarket catalytic converter. I expect that the regulation says it must adsorb XYZ amount of fumes, and Ford designed around that amount of activated carbon. And if you have dual tanks you have 2 canisters I also do not know of any others that can be used or where others may have mounted it. Once it is mounted in the factory location and the air filter cool fresh air hose is in place you can hardly see it down in there. Dave ----

Are you sure they are ALL HOT with the key off? Where the lights on when you checked? I want to say 1 of the wires is to a trailer relay when you have the tow package and that would be hot with lights on. I would have to look atmy truck to see what I have them going to as I used 1 maybe 2 for different things like to my fog / driving lights and maybe trailer brake controller? Dave ---- god job on fixing the dim lights

Little hard to see the shifter in my parts truck Truck dose look solid but with out a bed I dont know on that price Is that a long bed or short? I only looked at it pretty fast and the side tank was used with both. I did see it has PS but no power brakes or AC so it is set up like my truck was. I am also guessing it would have the small wheel bolt pattern so the small kingpins too. Or was my parts truck with power brakes the small pattern? heck I cant remember now Dave ----

Looks like you got it in time I would have loved to go a bushing like that but the local store did not have anything close that would work The only thing I was worried of when making the holes a little larger for the bushings is not having enough "meat" around the hole for support and making it weak. I figured if I found it was to thin and weak I would run a bead or 3 down the edge with the welder to build it up thicker but looked OK so did not weld beads. A really good fix would be Hyme Joints as you would never have metal to metal parts rubbing together that should not be. Heck I did not think of it till just now and if I have issues again that will be the way I go. I have a second rod so maybe I should start looking into this? Dave ----

If it sounds like a bird chirping it is a Ujoint that is going bad. Look close at them for rust as that noise it running dry and rust forums. The next thing that will happen is a vibration when taking off from a stop or driving under power. Dave ----

I am guessing you had the system open to swap in the FS10 compressor for the FS6 one? How did you recharge the system and what was the gauge readings low / high sides? How much larger is the 10 over the 6? Got to ask why not change the pulley on the FS6 from V to serp? Yes You would need to change the clutch but that is not hard and the system does not need to be open. Dave ----

Welcome to F.O.G (Flare side Owners Group) may name is Dave and I have a problem I wonder if the cab has been swapped onto a different frame? On the top of the right frame rail some where between where the ALT is and the firewall meets the frame should be a VIN and that should match the door post sticker & front glass VIN's Good luck with the project I will be following Dave ----

When my washer did not work I found the wire had power when you it should work and the pump would work if jumped to power so it had a bad connection wire at the pump. I went to use the pump the other day and it did not work but have not looked into why yet. Dave ----

:nabble_anim_jump:cool that you got it figured out and working. A bent rod rod that is bent from the factory to start with would be hard to tell. Dave ----