FuzzFace2

Part of the problem with using all or nothing from 1 system is at the time I did not know there were difference in the AC system between 80 - 86. As said my parts truck (that the system came from) had a York compressor but I only had half the motor brackets. The other half and pulleys were sold with the parts truck motor before I bought it. My truck did not have AC, motor was not even from a truck and not set up for AC. A member was able to get me compressor brackets for the newer type compressor that would work with the GM type PS pump I was using. So at that point I had to make the 2 system work together. The first time I got the system working I only had a issue with the low side hose from dryer to compressor and finding one that would work and I did. Because of issues and loosing charge and then the JY compressor going bad I had to re-do the system. If I re-used the 2 year old dryer all would have been good but I went with a new dryer and the fittings were not in the same place as the one I removed. Because of the fittings is why the hose sat higher and the hood would hit it when closed. I was able to bend the fitting so the hose cleared the hood and the system is working. We do what we have to do to get it to work! Dave ----

I just dont remember how it all went together at this time. I did try the key and I could not turn it in either cyl lock but was not how the rods were hooked up. I did not have the door panel slider part and to keep the rods from making noise or falling off and to the bottom of the door I taped the rods to the door. Because of this it kept the key from turning because the rods could not move as the lock was turned. I now have the sliders but I would like to replace the door panels but last time I looked I could not find slider lock door panels so Imay have to pull my panels and do a better "restore job" on them. I am enjoying the truck to much to take the truck / panels off to do what needs to be done. I dont know if the pin type inside lock setup would be the same set up or not but maybe someone that has a door panel off could take pictures to see. Wish I could help more Dave ----

Me 3 on checking the linkage and dont just look at it pull it apart. Remove the rod from the arm at the pedal and look over that end of the rod & arm to make sure they are round. There should also be a thin plastic bushing that fits over the rod before going thru the arm and the pin back in. At the other end of that rod do the same pull it and look it over the same way. There is also a bushing here too. Unbolt the frame pivot for the Zbar or cross shaft and remove the povit and cross shaft. IIRC there are pins you need to pull on the shaft before it can come off the motor side pivot. There should be plastic bushings on both the the frame & motor side pivots. They are held in place with half round spring clips before the bushings can be removed from the pivots. There should also be felt seals that fit on the pivots before the bushings are installed. Make sure all bushings are in good shape. On the Zbar / cross shaft when going back together pack grease in the ends and around the pivots and after you get the frame pivot bolted down push the felt seals into the Zbar / cross shaft. If the Zbar / cross shaft bushings are not kept in good shape they can cock the Zbar / cross shaft and put strain on the motor side screw in pivot and could snap it! You can not get this screw in pivot for the 300 six motor any more. The last one posted from Ebay was $170 IIRC Dont ask how I know all this BTW my pedal was doing the same thing for about 2 weeks before the motor side pivot broke off the motor. I was lucky it happened 1/4 mile from my house and I had a new pivot because I had fixed this one 2 times before. Also when I put the truck on the road 2 years before it had now thin bushings, they were trashed when I pulled it apart for this last fix. I hit the hardware store for thicker bushings in hope they will last longer than 2 years. This is how I got the truck Dave ----

It has been years since I had my doors open to see any of the rods, etc. Could you have the rod on backwards? The end in your hand may go in the latch assy.? I say this because the rod looks close to the outer door skin in the picture. IIRC there are 3 rods, rod to the key cyl, rod to the slider door panel lever, rod to the inside door open lever. Any way they were all off and you got 2 of them mixed up and installed in the wrong place? When I pulled the latches on mine I left the 3 rods on the latch so I would know how they went back together. On the lever I dont remember if the arm comes with the new locks or not? I cant remember if I installed new lock cyl or not at this time and I dont remember seeing any old ones when going thru my parts bins so I may have just replaced the gaskets? Dose LMC, Dennis Carpenter or Jeff's Bronco Grave Yard show anything on their sites for this arm? Sorry I cant help more Dave ----

Did I miss what the fix was on the fuse popping was? I have not looked into a issue I have on my 81 F100 (factory wiring / no computer) where when the AC compressor kicks on & off, be it low charge or temp, the dash turn signal lights flash. You can only see this when it is dark, I leave for work between 12am & 4am, I do not see this in day light as the flash is to quick. I should also point out I have LED dash lights. I know all my grounds are in place but being everything has been painted they may not be 100%and I need to check this someday. It is not a big deal for me but just something that is along the same strange line with the AC as yours. Dave ----

The gate looks good, I like the red with the white? On the 4x4 I think they are on the lower part of the gate no? I know the 4x4 are not on ours, at least I dont think so but on what they do come on it is lower. On the gasket I reused one that came with 1 of the trucks, cant remember what truck now. Maybe the parts truck as I used its flat glass? After cleaning with soap & water it was in pretty good shape so it was used. The slider my truck had bad seals and rattled just moving it so I went with flat glass that came in the parts truck. That glass almost was not. When I went to pick up the truck the rear glass was hanging half out, how it did not pop out all the way or break I dont know. So before moving the truck I puled it out and set it on the floor of the Uhaul truck I had to use to pull my car trailer. I also have a new rear glass seal that came with my weather seal kit. The plan was to get a new slider and use the seal but dont think I will do the slider now. Dave ----

Another FOG member (Flare side Owners Group) Dave ----

The drier is for 81 to match the 81 evap coil. The factory 81 compressor is the big York unit. The compressor I am using and the suction hose is for 85 system IIRC. I could not use the 85 drier as it would not bolt up to the evap coil. The later hose should run along the cowl to the direr and the fitting would be to the engine side. Because I have to use the 81 drier the hose fitting is on the fender side so the hose kind of run across the air filter housing on my 300 six. Now 2 years ago I used a new different drier and this hose and it all fit. I dont remember who's drier the old one was but this new one is a Murray and it is just a little different. Besides the hose fitting the low psi switch is also not in the same place and now hits the heater cut off valve but got it to fit. I have been using the truck the last few days and at 4am (77*f) I have to turn the temp up as it gets a little cool in the cab. On the way home it was 94* and the humidity 88%+ and with the fan on high, temp cold and set to Normal AC it was nice and cool in the cab. If I put it to MAX AC the air flow changes from dash to defrost more then on normal. Dave ---- ps: just re-reading this I just thought I bet I could have used the 85 evap coil and the 85 drier I bought 2 years ago and think the hose would run across the cowl like it should

The condenser was just the normal replacement for the truck that you had to space the bottom out a little to make work. Think its for the 87 up trucks? but listed to fit ours. Now on the new evap coil it is a little bigger. When I pulled the old one out it had a rubber spacer that ran top to bottom on the end to the firewall. I pulled it off and was looking to see how I was going to get it to "stick" so I could install the new coil. I then thought I should match the 2 coils up side by side before trying to install and find it would not fit for some reason. That is when I found the new coil was wider the width of the rubber spacer. It is maybe 2" wider but every little bit of more cooling helps. As for cooling I think the pick up cools pretty good compared to my 02 Durango even with rear heat/AC. The Durango is a lot of space to cool down over the pick up cab and both would be sitting out in the sun all day. The other day the Durango said it was over a 100* out side, hotter in the truck, when I got in after work. Dave ----

WOW almost $80 just to stick the phone on the glass! On the seat is free and works just fine for me. When driving I am driving not looking at my phone. What did people do before cell phones? Even my DD the phone sits in a cubby down low in the center console where I cant see it. If it rings in either truck I dont pick it up till I am stopped. As a CLD driver if we are seen with a phone in our hand it is a large fine from the police / DOT and the safety dept. can see on the cameras in the trucks if we look at a phone when moving. The new cameras, AI sensing, even talk to you and 3 strikes and you get a call from safety. Maybe I am to old and just dont care about the phone needed to be in my face all the time Dave ----

Thanks With everything new it better work good now. Dave ----

I have the house garage door opener in the hole. The PO had a no slip open weave mat cut to fit the cubby and the opener stays put. The cell phone just sets on the seat next to me. If I need to use Google Maps it still stays on the seat facing up and the sound turned up. I dont need to look at it all the time as if it was in front of me just when the next turn is in miles and the name of the road. If I need to I have a BT head set I use for work when driving and it will tell me what it displays. Dave ----

Thanks and me too Dave ----

Gary thanks valve will be removed. Never gave it much thought on the 2 valves back to back before seeing it posted on YouTube. I also hope it is not to hard to get the evap coil swapped out When getting my monthly eye injection I got a call the dryer was in so picked it and some system flush up on the way home from the Dr. office. After I rest the eye I may go out and start the AC part swap / flush / recharge job. The only thing to flush is the condenser, and it is more to get the oil out and hoses, everything else gets replaced. From what I am reading I only add oil to the compressor. Half in the compressor and the rest in the low side of the coil as not to slug the compressor. I think I added to much oil when I first got the system running so hope to fix it this time. Thanks again Dave ---- The evaporator replacement on our trucks is surprisingly easy. Basically, just split the case from inside the engine bay by removing the screws that hold the two half's together. In regards to the oil, I recall adding a set amount in the compressor and then portioning out the remainder in the condenser and evaporator. Good luck in your quest to fix the AC. Sorry to hear about the eye, Dave. Avastin injections? Typically get those for Wet AMD or macular edema. It looked like thats how it came apart but wanted to check to make sure before Igot into it. The eye thing has been going on for almost 10 years now. I get the injection every 4 weeks now but was up to 12 weeks at 1 time. I dont remember what they inject, they have tried 2 different meds to get this under control and told it will be fore the rest of my life. I get samples now but if I had to pay for it each shot is $1200! So I would be going blind in that eye if not for samples. The eye builds up pressure and if not kept in check the eye can pop like a balloon at the back were the nerves are and kills them and I end up with an area there dose not picture what it should. I have a little area now that is like that and for the most part I dont even notice but Icant pass my eye test for my CDL with that eye and when backing up the work truck, trailer truck, I cant judge how close I am to something. I think I am 10 feet and I am more like 30 feet so I have to get out a bunch till I am close enough to hookup the hoses to off load product. Thanks for the information heading out in a few to "get'er done"! Dave ---- We have AC The factory evap coil was easy on a 300 six, I would do them all day long. The compressor clutch gave me more trouble to swap than the coil. I got a compressor with out clutch because I replace it not long ago. I had to get more oil as the compressor calls for 10 oz from what I found and I have less then 8 oz. When out I also picked up more Freon with dye so I did not need to add it to the system. The compressor came with shipping oil and had to be drained and PAG46 oil added but the full 10 oz could not be added to the compressor as per paper work. Some was added to the compressor and the rest to the evap coil inlet side. Once the compressor had oil in it they wanted it set on the clutch end to get oil on the seal for about 5 min. so I did other things. I picked up system flush the other day and back flushed the condenser just to make sure it had no junk and get any extra oil out also flushed the hoses. I then ran shop air through the condenser as per the can of flush till no more misting came out. Every thing went well till ........... I went to hook the suction hose to the dryer. Just placing it there I seen it would be to high and could not close the hood. Guess the old dryer was a little different as it was the same hose? I tried using my to small tubing bender I have had since high school and broke it At that itme my son showed up and showed him what was going on. He said why not use MAP gas torch to heat the metal tube and bend it around EXH. pipe I had sitting on the bench. It worked out pretty good and was able to close the hood. Started pulling a vacuum and after 30 mins shut it down to check for leaks, all was good so started to pull vacuum for a deep pull, did it for 2 hours as I was picking up tools and doing other things. My son started checking why the right side bumper fog / driving lights stopped working. Both bulbs went bad and in the middle he left for work so I had to swap bulbs and put the housing back in the bumper, wile the vacuum pump was doing its thing. I figured after 2 hours pulling a vacuum if not enough then to bad and started to add Freon to the system. First can had the dye in it as I wanted some in the system just in case. The sticker calls for 13 lb and 12 oz of R12 and using 12 oz 134a cans comes to 3,75 cans IIRC When said & done 4 cans got added. At first I was a little worried the compressor was not working after adding the 2nd can and not seeing the high side come up. Then realized I had the high side gauge valve open. With the 4 - 12 oz cans I had 55 to 60 on the low side and 155 to 160 on the high side with OAT in the 90's and only my drum fan blowing on me and the radiator. I had water dripping off the dryer and hose all the way back to the compressor and even a little of the compressor. I did not have a way to measure the temp out of the vents but I was happy from what I felt blowing out. I loaded up the weekly trash and made a dump run AC blowing cold but had the windows & kick vents open, too tired to close them as I been working on the truck since 4am and it was now 3pm :nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:I dont have anymore issues with this AC Oh when swapping the clutch I could tell the old compressor was bad as you did not hear the same compressing noise between them. This new compressor is also quite so the other was bad from day one. Dave ----

Gary thanks valve will be removed. Never gave it much thought on the 2 valves back to back before seeing it posted on YouTube. I also hope it is not to hard to get the evap coil swapped out When getting my monthly eye injection I got a call the dryer was in so picked it and some system flush up on the way home from the Dr. office. After I rest the eye I may go out and start the AC part swap / flush / recharge job. The only thing to flush is the condenser, and it is more to get the oil out and hoses, everything else gets replaced. From what I am reading I only add oil to the compressor. Half in the compressor and the rest in the low side of the coil as not to slug the compressor. I think I added to much oil when I first got the system running so hope to fix it this time. Thanks again Dave ---- The evaporator replacement on our trucks is surprisingly easy. Basically, just split the case from inside the engine bay by removing the screws that hold the two half's together. In regards to the oil, I recall adding a set amount in the compressor and then portioning out the remainder in the condenser and evaporator. Good luck in your quest to fix the AC. Sorry to hear about the eye, Dave. Avastin injections? Typically get those for Wet AMD or macular edema. It looked like thats how it came apart but wanted to check to make sure before Igot into it. The eye thing has been going on for almost 10 years now. I get the injection every 4 weeks now but was up to 12 weeks at 1 time. I dont remember what they inject, they have tried 2 different meds to get this under control and told it will be fore the rest of my life. I get samples now but if I had to pay for it each shot is $1200! So I would be going blind in that eye if not for samples. The eye builds up pressure and if not kept in check the eye can pop like a balloon at the back were the nerves are and kills them and I end up with an area there dose not picture what it should. I have a little area now that is like that and for the most part I dont even notice but Icant pass my eye test for my CDL with that eye and when backing up the work truck, trailer truck, I cant judge how close I am to something. I think I am 10 feet and I am more like 30 feet so I have to get out a bunch till I am close enough to hookup the hoses to off load product. Thanks for the information heading out in a few to "get'er done"! Dave ----

Mat, when I moved from CT to NC 7+ years ago I had 1 car in parts but moved under its own power and 2 others that also moved under their power and parts for all of them. Then add all the tools / shop equipment I had. Just like you who would know how to pack it all so it would make the move safely? BTW when I was a kid my parents had a trucking service so I knew how to pack things. I could not do all the packing, driving, unpacking and drive back to do it all over again and still hold down a job. Heck we did not have a house to move into as we needed to sell our house first. The answer was PODS! I used 3 of the largest they had. They dropped it in the drive in CT and after work I packed it up. When full they took the full and brought a empty to do all over again. I used 2x4's and plywood to build compartments in the first POD for my car parts & tools. Motors, transmissions, heads, body parts and glass you name it. 2nd POD had more of my garage stuff but started loading house goods that packed a lot better. The 3rd was all the big house stuff and we hired movers to move what I could not. We gave and through out a lot of good stuff as we did not have room for it and we were not getting a 4th POD. We drove down to NC to sign for the new house and I pulled 1 car down on the trailer. It and my Durango was full up with stuff. Unpacked everything and went back up with empty trailer. Picked up 2nd of 3 cars and the cats from boarding and went back down with sister in tow, her car full with stuff we could not because of the cats in a large crate. The POD's got dropped at the new house, 1 with most of my garage / car stuff at my garage less moving on my part. We hired movers again to move the stuff I could not by my self for the house and my up right air compressor. Sister helped the wife with the house stuff and me in my garage. A week or so later I went up for the last car by my self. Other than the work of me loading /unloading the PODS it worked out great. They held on to them till we needed them and dropped the 3 at the new house were I wanted them, 2 at the house the other at my garage. I would say for anyone that is going to move them selves and a need to store before the move to go with PODS. I was able to take my time loading, they were on time to drop / pick up at both locations and held as long as was needed. Price was also cheaper than if we hired movers. Only driving I did was to bring the 3 cars down and 1 of the drives was for us to get here anyway LOL Dave ----

Gary thanks valve will be removed. Never gave it much thought on the 2 valves back to back before seeing it posted on YouTube. I also hope it is not to hard to get the evap coil swapped out When getting my monthly eye injection I got a call the dryer was in so picked it and some system flush up on the way home from the Dr. office. After I rest the eye I may go out and start the AC part swap / flush / recharge job. The only thing to flush is the condenser, and it is more to get the oil out and hoses, everything else gets replaced. From what I am reading I only add oil to the compressor. Half in the compressor and the rest in the low side of the coil as not to slug the compressor. I think I added to much oil when I first got the system running so hope to fix it this time. Thanks again Dave ----

The dryer I think was $25 so not to big a deal and been thinking of not even wasting my time. Now the same part from O'Reilly was $45 but should be at the store when they open and I ordered it think was 2pm cant really beat that if you want to do the job over the weekend. Dont know if I will go to a cruse Saturday yet or not, they say its going to be the hottest day yet, so dont want to pull the truck apart and then want to go and cant? So any word on pulling the shrader valve on the low side be for installing the adapter or leave it? Also how hard to R&R the evap coil? Looks not to bad as it looks like it comes out the engine bay side. Looks like just remove half of the HVAC box and it pops out? Dave ----

I have been checking other forums for this issue, still going forward on replacing the evap coil, compressor & dryer. What I have seen when using the adapters from R12 fittings on the truck to the 134a is to remove the valve core from the truck side low side as the low side adapter has a core valve. You dont do this on the high side as the high side adapter dose not have a core valve. Is this true? I dont remember having any issues the last time I charged the system and I installed them. I also did not see anything that came with the adapters. So what is the deal leave the core valve or remove it from the truck side? I got the parts from Rock Auto but the dryer was wrong. The box looked to small and when open it is a kit to rebuild a dryer? Number on the box is 83200 and the packing list has 33200. Dont know if will reach out to RA or not but I ordered a dryer local and should be in tomorrow. Dave ----

Thanks for the post I checked them out and looks to be for the larger 250 / 350 truck suspension mostly and that is good as it may help others. On your adapter what trans to what transfer are you looking for? If it is not a normal Ford part then think I would look at Advance Adapter or Novak as they are the 2 that come to mind. If there are other parts ask and we can point you to who may have them if there are such parts. Dave ----

The price has been dropped to $144.50 Still a little to high for me at this time. I would be willing to spend $75 for it and then use it to make copies from so I would hve them when needed LOL Dave ---

For a "not running truck" I think the price is a little high but thats me. Dave ----

If it really gets to me I may give that a try. Again just worried when I get the mirror back on and I know I will need to adjust it it will snap the mount. I will have to take a picture if I can of the one that broke as there was not a lot of meat of the part that broke. On the clutch finding a "good" machine shop is the problem. The only one around is the one that messed up the kingpin bushings and now that I dont have a NOS one they can take measurements from or a blue print to go off of they would have a fit I bet. If I was thinking before I needed the NOS one I used I should have made blue print drawings so someone would have something to go off of Maybe I will get lucky and someone will find one for a good price on Ebay I can get and then see if they can make a few but I am not going to hold my breath LOL I went with Rock Auto. I have a miss matched of parts to make the system whole. The evap coil, dryer, condenser and some of the hoses are 81 but the compressor is for a 85 300 six with a vbelt. Because of the 2 different years of parts is why some hoses are for 81 and others for the 85. If I went local most of the prices were higher and also had a wait time so figured why not go with Rock Auto. Dave ----

On the AC me too. Mirror if I add the Loc-tite if it makes it so I cant move / adjust it before it sets up it will snap it again. I am sure I can tighten the screws but again if to tight it may break again. What product did you use? Dave ----

Well a little up dating: I got the mirror and mounted it. I am not real happy as it moves when ever you close the door. I have tighten up the 3 screws on the bottom but worry if I go to tight and I adjust it (and hope it stays put) I could snap the mount like the first one. Back a week or so I messed with the AC on the truck, replaced a o-ring that was leaking. Pulled vacuum for 45 min. then held it for 45 min and loss 2 psi. I then pulled vacuum for little over an hour and tried to charge the system. It only took part of 2 cans, could not get the system low above 20 psi and the high was 155 psi. I gave up as it was hot and it not taking the charge like it did when I first got the system working. To day I was able to add the rest of the 2 cans by soaking them in hot water. I even added a 3rd can and the low came up to 30 psi and the high to 150 psi at 800 rpm. Bringing the RPM up to 2500 the low dropped to 25 psi but the high stayed at 150 psi. I believe the used junk yard compressor I installed when first getting the system working is bad as the high side dose not go up with RPM. I ordered a compressor, evap coil & dryer, I have a new orifice valve and will replace ALL O-RINGS when I replace the parts and it works and stay working this time! Dave ----