85lebaront2

You have the correct ID for each, top one is indeed the IAC. Question, what do the plugs look like and what brand are they? I have seen some strange things on Fords with platinum plugs where they weren't originally specified and even with non-Motorcraft ones (friend had an F150 that had AC plugs in it, He changed to Motorcraft and nearly doubled his gas mileage. Also check that the EGR valve isn't leaking or stuck, that will cause a very rough idle.

If anybody needs any more I dug my stash out and here are pictures. For some reason I seem to have a lot of the same ones unless some of them are the same for both sides.

I have a Qualitex seat frame in Darth that I pulled out of Bricknose at Pete's Used Parts in Newport News VA, the rear seat came out of a 1996 Centaurus conversion Crew Cab DRW truck he bought for the powertrain and when I asked about the interior he told me go ahead and take it. He gave me the Ford/Alcoa rims as a Christmas present. The seat mounts and floor pan really didn't change from 1980-1997 other than the differences between models, and all crew cabs seem to have the tall transmission hump front section. The factory split seats and buckets sit on a platform that bolts onto the bench seat mounting points. The 96 I got the interior out of had a change in the seat mounts, the rear mounting point is a stud since it sits vertically and the front is still a bolt I have replaced the outer seats on the Qualitex base with a pair of 2000 Lincoln Continental ones that have power everything and an inflatable lumbar support. I need to modify the Qualitex base as the Lincoln seats are a bit too high. My "almost son in law" repaired and refinished the center fold down seat back for me, and the only issue I have with it, the actual cup holders in addition to being a bit odd sized, are too shallow since the bottom isn't relieved for the base of the cup.

FWIW, the factory front and rear bench seats in the crew cabs are the same, the rear has the back tilt latch and adjuster mechanism. Since Darth had aftermarket front seats, I can't say if the back would tilt forward.

I never liked the gray of the newer truck engines so Darth's new engine is Ford blue.

I know that after I changed my rear brakes to the 3 1/2" wide shoes Darth's brakes are noticeably stronger, not touchy, just stronger. I had previously installed the booster and MC from the 1990 F250. The RWAL actuator and controller I gave to my Department manager for his 1987 F150. My best friend had me do a rear disc conversion on his 1995 F350 crew cab DRW with a Power Stroke. His brakes were never real good and while we were emptying my NN House, he had his flat bed trailer on his truck and we were going to go get dinner but were in a time crunch, so rather than shuffle and get his Corvette unblocked, I just told him, you drive, you know the fastest route. He damn near put us both through the windshield at the first corner.

Damn, Jim, when did a crew cab lose 13" of wheelbase? Darth is 168" wheelbase, 155" was super cab and 133" single cab. all with the 8' bed. That was why when I put the fuel tanks and lines from the 1990 F250 I had to add 35" of fuel line and evaporative system along with adding 35" to the front of the chassis harness in order to get everything connected.

Dealer installed may still have used the older York or Tecumseh two cyl. compressors.

That was used on AC compressors prior to the introduction of the fixed clutch magnet. It provided 12v to a large brass ring on the rotating clutch pulley. I had a couple of 70s cars with those. C8xx for a pn identifies it as a 1968 introduction part.

The standard bed 1980-86 trucks can be a bit finicky, but the DRW models take the cake. The filler necks as the others have posted are a pain due to the design where the incoming fuel down the outer tube runs across the end of the inner (vent) tube. If due to age and possibly having a tank removed and reinstalled the inner hard plastic tube has broken, filling can become almost mission impossible. In 1987, Ford reversed the design, so incoming fuel runs down the inner tube and the outer one is the vent, this greatly improves the filling process. The other change is in the tank venting, at the top of each tank is a roll over valve, which also incorporates a float to block any overfill from going into the evaporative system. Up to 1986 the line to the canisters is quite small, 1987 up use a 3/8" line and even in 1996 the over 8500 GVWR trucks still had an open to atmosphere small hose. FWIW, here is a picture of Darth with the original bad removed so the length and some idea of the contortions of the filler necks can be seen: Note that there is a short section where the cap goes then a long hose into the tanks, inside this is a hard plastic vent tube. I don't have any pictures of the inside. Also you can see the metal piece around the hoses, this is clamped to the bottom of the bed so the hose is essentially horizontal as it runs over the frame.

They should, that's exactly what they are.

The flash module replaces the chip and is programmed through an FTDI cable that connects to the diagnostic connector underhood near the SBEC. it is a 6 pin connector of which 3, the transmit and receive wires and ground are used. The FTDI chip provides the interface from the USB cable to the Chrysler electronics much as the Mongoose cable provides the interface to the Ford EEC-V system. There are actually two connection ports on Chrysler cars in the 90s, the underhood and a blue connector for what Chrysler called a CCD bus for Car Collision Detection bus (you will have to ask Ma Mopar why). One of the ECU leads also goes there, the pink SCI transmit wire, however when using the FTDI cable Rx and Tx are swapped. The underhood has a ground, the two signal leads, an ignition power and the grounding signal for the ASD relay. The inside one has battery, the two CCD bus leads, the SCI transmit and a different SCI receive a pink/light blue and a ground. It is used to communicate with the body computer, trip computer and with the electronic 4 speed OD transaxle, it's controls.

Looks good, I know about the hand drawing aspect. Thats what I ended up having to do for my custom emission decal sticker Im still in the process of making. I started off with a NOS '82 Mustang decal I picked up off ebay for $10 that I then scanned at the highest dpi resolution possible then I loaded it up into photoshop and started my editing. Ive posted them before on here some where though but not sure if I ever posted the original of the NOS decal before I made changes. This is where I am as of last year, really need to load the program up and get back on working on it to put the finishing touches, I think I am around 12 hours worth of work on this one here. My goal is when I have my grill out to replace it, I want to replace the filler panel between the core support and the grill with a new unit and want to place this decal on the new panel preserving the OE decal since its not reproduced. But I do need to make some tweaks though cause I am now going sniper EFI and I really dont need the temperature switch for the vacuum advance. Only reason I was going to keep that was for the idle up feature when the sensor sensed a over heat condition and applied manifold vacuum instead of ported vacuum to idle the engine up. I can do this with the sniper using the IAC and the temp sensor. But for the finished decal I need something that can survive under the hood, I dont mind uploading it and paying a company to print it but it has to survive harsh chemicals, oil, gasoline, and cleaning solutions as I do wash under the hood. That is what I need to do for mine. Since the truck is a 1986 over 8500GVW model it is a non-catalyst truck which is reflected on the original sticker. Since I replaced the front sheet metal with bricknose parts, the radiator filler panel no longer exists. The bricknose sticker is on the bottom of the hood which is where I put the replacement I was able to order from the dealer. The obvious problem is, no way does the EFI 460 look like the basket of worms that was on the 1986 460. If I use a 1996 sticker it calls for an air pump which would only go to the exhaust manifolds and catalyst. The manifold part is apparently for initial cold start and is quickly switched to mid cat. Since the truck never had a cat, it is really academic even having an air pump.

Well, Murphy has reared his head again. In order to tune the Chrysler engine computers there are a limited number of options, some of which require some serious modifications to the computers, The first version turbo engines were pretty simple, and the boost limit was purely mechanical, these were a one year design and used a two part engine computer system. Inside the car, behind the right side kick panel was the Logic Module or brains of the system and underhood near the left front corner was the power module or brawn. The logic modules were not sealed nor potted and could be easily socketed, but the 84 was not a good candidate, 1985-1987 models were better, and of the whole series the 1987 logic module was the best to use (that is what the 1985 had in it). On these it was fairly easy to socket the LM to allow for different tunes to be used. These were a bank fired (1-2 and 3-4) injector strategy. In 1988 Chrysler introduced the SMEC or Single Module Engine Controller. This still had the two separate pieces, but the logic portion was now underhood in the same casing as the power board. The power board was removable and could be swapped between similar engines. These were nice for socketing as the power board could be used to seal the cut out area in the logic board potting. These were still bank fired on the injectors. These were a 1988-1989 only run. In 1990 the SBEC was introduced as the engine control, it stood for Single Board Engine Controller. These are sequential injection units. The SBEC as originally built could not be externally re-flashed, the SBEC2 and higher can be reflashed using Chrysler's DRB units. The LM, SMEC and SBEC use 28 pin program chips, the SBEC2 went to a 32 pin chip, but because this was in the works, the SBEC boards have 32 holes available, but 3 or 4 are not drilled requiring they be carefully drilled with a #63 drill. One man who had been working with these systems since the beginning developed a flash module for these that is installed in place of the original chip. New chips can be burned (programmed) but the originals are obsolete and contained a "latch". The solution for that was a latch board that goes between the new chip and the board. I have a board I tried to socket and damaged some of the traces on, I have another I had socketed by someone else. I spent a bit of time getting the ZIF socket off that board and found it had been glued to the board. I have now two boards with some damaged traces, but a roll of 30ga wire, brush on flux and low temp solder should solve that and hopefully give me two SBECs for automatic transmission use. Just like a Ford system there are some internal differences, some in the program, but one main difference, these were the first turbo models with a lock up torque converter. Here are the areas on the SBEC board, you can see some of the bad areas: Top side: Bottom side: Here are the flash module and 32 pin socket: Flash module: 32 pin socket:

Jim, no problem there, I have to go and sometimes sketch something to be sure I am right on the terminology and effects. A couple more notes, twin traction beam suspension, on an F150, it pretty well behaves like a twin I-beam, but on the F250 and F350 trucks with the twisting leaf springs the caster pretty much stays where it is set, but the camber still reacts like a twin I-beam. Live axles be they a simple beam or a live axle for a 4WD, once they are set up, as long as shims or eccentric bushings are kept in the same location and orientation they generally do not need adjusting. A few years ago our boy scout camp had a 1987 F250 4WD truck. it was horrible on front tires and a bear to drive on the highway (take your hands off the wheel and it would dive toward the left immediately). I asked a friend who owned an alignment shop for suggestions (the left front wheel was visibly tilted out at the top). He told me how to use a couple of matched 2X4 blocks and a level on a level floor to set the camber. It was way off, took the bushings out to get the numbers and decided to flip the camber (outer) bushing around. Torqued everything and had the ranger back out and pull back in. Recheck, camber was 0° as near as we could measure (level showed wheel vertical). Then it was time for the old string toe-in gauge, truck was toed out about 1/4". I think he had me set it to 1/8" in max, slightly less depending on where I could get the string to. Truck drove like a new one after that. I had a 1958 F100 that I put a 312 Y-block and Borg-Warner T85/OD 3 speed into in place of the 223 and 3 speed. That lowered the front a bit and I would occasionally get the "death wobble" due to little or no or possibly even a negative caster angle. I was in Pep Boys and saw some 1/2 length helper springs for leaf springs, bought a set, installed them on the back (shackle end) of the front springs, raising the front of the truck and tilting the axle with it's king pins back enough to give me enough positive caster to solve the "death wobble" issue.

Jim as the front of the truck rises, the radius arms will swing down to maintain tire contact with the road surface, this has the effect of reducing the caster angle (positive caster is the backwards tilt of the steering axis that helps center the wheels) Camber is the in or out tilt of the steering axis, most vehicles have a slight positive camber which helps in maintaining a good contact patch on the outside front wheel when cornering. Extreme (somewhat) example. When Shelby set up the front ends on the 1965 GT350s, the upper control arms were lowered 1", and the alignment specs were 2° + caster, 0° camber, the caster + the 3.5 turns lock to lock meant the wheel would return to center with a vengeance if you let go of it. The 0 camber put the front tires straight up and the relocated upper control arms made the outside front tire tilt in under load so it remained vertical with respect to the track surface. This was done for the bias ply race tires of the 60s, put radials on these cars and they were squirrely as all get out.

When aligning these trucks with either twin I-beam or twin traction beam front suspension, the rear height is part of the alignment procedure (if done correctly) as it affects the caster angle (which is what helps returning to center). If you look at the alignment charts in the service manual, there is a section for front and rear height that contains a large chart. Due to the design of the front suspension, travel of the wheel up or down from it's ride position causes change in both caster and camber. Caster is affected by the radius arm (one going back to the frame) and camber is affected by the axle motion. Actual alignment on these trucks is one of two ways, if you have king pins, the axle beam must be bent to change camber and possible caster, but there are some methods for changing caster at the radius arm attachment. If you have ball joints, the upper ball joint has eccentric bushings to allow caster and camber to be adjusted. The good thing on the king pin models, properly done, it will last a long time. Darth's last full alignment was done in 1994 not long after I bought him. My last set of front tires were bought in 2014 and are wearing dead even across the tread.

You apparently have the EEC-III system, your distributor may have a strange cap and even stranger rotor. Look under the driver's side of the seat, there should be a computer under there.

Gary, you need to order a case of these:

I have an Inovate wideband on Darth for tuning, it interfaces directly to the Core Tuning software.

Good luck with it and let me know if you need any more information on it.

Very true Jim, and Ford started 3 digit codes on the later OBD-I vehicles.

You might want to save that link as it will work on the 1985/86 EFI 302s, main difference is test connector and MAP sensor are behind the battery.

Since I was tagged (I guess that means I'm IT), 1990 is an EEC-IV system, the diagnostic connector is on the back side of the air filter bracket and is two separate plugs, a large odd shaped multi-pin and a single pin. An OBD-II (parts store) tester will not work on it and if I remember correctly 1990 will not give live data. If the 6 uses the same locations as the V8s the MAP sensor will be on top of the HVAC casing. Make sure the vacuum line isn't cracked or collapsed as it will make it rich, also check the line from the pressure regulator for liquid gas inside which indicates a bad regulator. Here is a way to retrieve codes without a scan tool on Ford OBD-1 systems:https://www.fordtruckzone.com/threads/how-to-retrieve-trouble-codes-on-your-eec-iv-system-without-using-a-code-scanner.659319/ It gives you a way to get both sets KOEO and KOER (engine off or engine running). ECT can make it pig rich, but it won't usually clear up at higher rpm. Good luck, and ping me if you need more on it.

My son had the original (a 1985 LeBaron convertible) up near DC at an area know as "the mixing bowl" where I-95, I-395 and I-495 all come together and the roads from the air look like a bowl of spaghetti. It is called the Springfield Interchange. He had gone up once before in our 1993 Grand Caravan and had been cut off trying to get to his exit. The next time, since I was recovering from a right knee replacement and couldn't drive at that time, he borrowed the konvertible (our nickname) and drove it. Same scenario, but, when someone attempted to cut him off, he stomped it, when he got home he said, "dad, you know that digital dash doesn't blank out at 85, it keeps going, it went 99, 00 then started up again" I told him I had put the export switch in export so it wouldn't blank at 85, I asked what he got to, his reply "21 and it was still pulling. but I had to slow down for the exit". Rough guess on HP is around 200 using 14 psi over the normal 12 for the Turbo II engine package. The A413 Torqueflite was set up so it shifted 1-2 at 56 mph and 2-3 at 79 mph at WOT. This is one of the reasons the 86 has an upgraded brake system to 4 wheel discs and a later K frame and lower control arms. Long term plans will be a 3 bar map sensor, and computer calibrated for 20 psi boost, which should push 300 HP, engine is an actual Turbo II long block and is assembled with ARP head studs a MOPAR Performance head gasket and ARP main studs and rod bolts. As the lower end picture shows it is a healthy beast, forged steel crank and beefy rods.