85lebaront2

If it seems to be pig rich, check the collection of solenoid valves behind the battery. One of the items in there is the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. It needs to have a good vacuum signal from the intake, any cracks or leaks in the line from the fitting on the upper plenum to that will make the system think you are at wide open throttle and go full rich. The other item is grounds, on the 1985-86 5.0L EFI the entire system grounds to the battery negative post. Wiring on these is also a problem, I have seen a number of these where the insulation has crumbled. The injectors are set up as two groups of four, four end (1458) and four center (2367), if only four of the plugs (one of the two groups) are badly fouled, one of two things, a grounded control circuit for the injectors or a bad computer.

Yes, Ford's V10 really isn't a great truck engine. My son has a V10 Excursion, 3.73 gears, he towed his 86 F150 down from West Virginia to Chesapeake Virginia on a borrowed trailer, he was down into 2nd gear on US17 crossing the Eastern Continental divide (Blue Ridge Mountains) which is a pretty gentle grade. Pulling a similar load with my 86 F350, 460 converted to MAF/SEFI and only running maybe 8:1 compression, and a 3.55 gear, I never got below 3rd in the E4OD (same ratios as the 4R100 in the Excursion) at 54 mph. Even a super low compression well used 460 pulls better than a V10.

2009 model, apparently early 2009 as the battery tray and hold down changed mid year, 276K on it and from what I found working on it probably has had the water pump and timing chain done. I saved all the hoses from the original and they are in near perfect condition. I am going to see If I can get a couple of brass 3/4" tees and some extra clamps to make one without the plastic tees. Replacing it was a royal PITA as the two connections for the rear HVAC unit are probably best accessed on a lift. Ford uses spring clamps that latch in a released condition and you put a proper sized screw driver in them to "pop" them so they clamp down. The two bottom ones had the latched part pointing down. Here are some pictures: Where the assembly goes, the metal tubes are all visible, engine and front heater core are 3/4", rear unit pies are 5/8": Installed and clamped: Upper plenum back on and connected: Closeup with upper plenum on, but shock tower brace and cowl inlet parts not on: Under hood view with everything reassembled: Same view but back further for a better overall view:

Rock Auto carries a lot of Motorcraft PNs and there is a way to search for them. I wouldn't panic if it looks different unless you live where there are strict emission inspections. Check these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1981,f-100,4.2l+255cid+v8,1120509,exhaust+&+emission,egr+valve,4968

Once I removed the wiper arms, cowl grille and the two lower pieces that form the bottom of the air inlet. I remove the upper plenum and shock tower cross brace everything is easily visible. The hardest part was getting the hoses off the nipples. I wanted to save them in case the part wasn't available. BTW, I Googled the Motorcraft KT-55 number and found it on eBay, Amazon and Rock Auto. Amazon and Rock were a little less than 1/2 the dealership cost.

I have no idea, heat maybe, because they pretty well crumbled when I was taking it off.

As requested, picture of the new assembly. Still has plastic tees, and I measured the ID on the hoses. The ones to and from the engine and front heater core are 19mm (3/4") ID, the two to the rear unit lines are 16mm (5/8") ID. It comes with all new clamps, insulating sleeve, upper clip and lower tie wrap. Right side: Left side: Shipping or pull tag: Part number tag:

460s did not get catalytic converters until 1988 when the EFI models started. That is why dual smoke grinders (air pumps) and probably 6 - 8 feet of vacuum harness. The bonus is a very good, free flowing exhaust system.

Sounds like my 2009 Flex, front and rear HVAC, at least the transaxle cooler, engine oil cooler and PS lines are all up front. The left side just inboard of the rocker panel looks like a Navy ship with all the hard lines running under there.

I second Grumpin on that, when I converted Darth to MAF/SEFI I ended up selling all the stuff to a fellow who had purchased a 1986 F250 that all the emission stuff was missing from. I'm still not sure that someone hadn't stuck a 429 in it because his had a 2 barrel carb on it.

Gary, it is basically the same engine, less turbos as Blue has. 3.5L DOHC V6. As far as I know the loss of coolant and heat up of the metal parts triggers a limp mode where it probably alternates banks (the V6 engines generally fire alternate banks) Firing order is 142536, where 123 are rear bank and 456 front. so in the limp mode it will fire 1-2-3 and the after a bit switch to 4-5-6 to keep from over heating either bank. Idea is to get safely off the road. Once it had cooled down it started right up on all 6. Wrecker driver drove it up on the rollback, leveled the deck and secured it. When he got to the house, he lowered the deck, unstrapped and drove it off and into the drive. I wasn't real happy finding the plastic tees. The hoses are pushed over the legs and are retained with plastic collars on the 3 hoses. I will post a picture of the new part when I get it.

Nice sir! I have Monroes on Darth, but my 1966 Shelby had Gabriel adjustable shocks as OEM. My choice of the Monroes is two fold, one is lifetime warranty, two is part of my retirement comes from Tenneco and Monroe, Walker and some others are it's source so buying those products helps ensure my retirement funding. I haven't done anything on Darth since I replaced the battery with a nice new Motorcraft group 65 from the local dealer. What I have been doing on a Ford truck is on my 2009 Flex Limited. We were on our way Thursday to an appointment for Mary in it when the AC shut off cooling and the temperature warning light popped on. We were maybe 300 yds from a place I could safely pull over on US13 so I continued to that side road. The check engine light came on and I could feel the engine saving program activate (cuts 1/2 of the cylinders off, then after a bit will switch to the other half. Got off US13, into the 84 Lumber parking area. I opened the hood expecting to see evidence of the water pump having failed as it is internal on these and has a tell tale hole above the alternator. No visible sign, but lots of antifreeze smell, no sign of problems anywhere you could see. Got AAA to tow it to the house. Mary had called a friend to pick her up and get her to her appointment, I had tried to get our neighbor but got no answer. I called her cousin (the one who did the garage floor) to come get me (I knew I would get a ration from him regarding Fords) so I could get the 2011 Flex and fetch Mary after her appointment. Friday I started the WTF happened on the 09 Flex. Put water in the expansion tank and after a bit I saw it running out of the heater hose nest behind the engine. After removing the cowl grille and lower sections and the shock tower brace I could see it was coming from a cracked plastic Tee. As I started to remove the offending portion the other tee broke. This vehicle (and the 11 Flex) has the dual HVAC units, one front and one in the LR quarter for overhead air grilles so the hoses have to feed two heater cores. The lines are "permanently" attached to the tees by plastic collars. My original plan was to get all 6 hoses off and use two parts store tees and 6 clamps to replicate the original assembly. I had looked at a Fords parts source on-line and found it show "discontinued". I called Preston Ford in Keller and spoke with the parts/service manager. He asked for the last 8 of the VIN, and said it comes as an assembly, both sides included for $66.50, needless to say I asked him to order it. It will be here Monday.

Gary. I am playing with this again, using one link takes me to this: http://bullnosetestforum.weebly.com/bullnose-test-forum.html Using another one takes me to this: http://test-bullnose-enthusiasts-forum.2.gabbleforum.org/ The Weebly one (first URL) appears to be the same as the current as far as appearance, says "Powered by Weebly" in a blue banner at bottom left. The tab for the page has a W on it. The Gabble one, the forum sections go all the way across and appear pretty normal. Hope this will help.

Ok, Gary, I went back, used the direct link and Chrome, Edge and Firefox all allow me to login on the test forum.

Worked for me using Win10 and Firefox. I will try MS Edge and Goggle Chrome. No good on MS Edge nor Google Chrome. Since I do not do this on my phone I can try Safari on my old MacBook Pro (Mary has the new one as hers is headed back to Apple for the 3rd time). Ok, tried using one of the older MacBook Pros and Safari. I got the login page, entered everything, and same results, takes my credentials, and right back to "login".

Yes, Murray used to sell hoses and fittings to make them up. Some shops that do hydraulic work can make custom hoses. Another source a friend used on his custom 1956 Dodge truck was: https://www.vintageair.com/ They make some very nice pieces. He used a heater/AC combination unit that we put where the glove box would have gone. Door was left for appearance and access for servicing, Had floor, defrost, and AC vents. No fresh air provision. Lines were sold as a measure of diameter and length and there were lots of fitting options. We used a penetration plate where the lines screwed on on each side so there was no chance of chaffing.

Obviously like most aftermarket stuff it is aimed at brand C engines, the ones with the distributor on the wrong end.

Bad thing about those and Amazon in particular, no real comparison to the original injectors. I am going to go dig up the Ford PN for the correct injectors. E5TZ-9F593-A which means they were a 1985 original issue, so may be the same as the 302 ones. Looks like they are the same as the 302 injectors. They should be 19#/hr where as my 460 ones are 24#/hr, my new engine will have 47#/hr, only because the Ford Racing 30#/hr ones were discontinued. Since I can adjust the parameters in my EEC-V system I can allow for the bigger injectors.

Thank you sir. These issues may very well put the brakes on this idea...we will see. Finding an 80-96 truck around here with AC is not easy. Of the 10 or so trucks I looked at this morning, only 2 had AC, and both were Bricknose trucks, an 88 and a 90 (I think). I don't know how easy it would be to remove the necessary parts from these trucks, and I already have all of the Bullnose stuff purchased already (last year). It is no harder than removing it from your truck, all the attaching points are the same. If you get the inside distribution housing you will have all the improvements.

Do the later fuel systems have enough pressure that a second fuel pump is not required? Where did you install the Meter Match module? Ford changed from the external frame mounted pump a reservoir/switching valve for the 1990 model year to the FDM design. If you have the large opening fuel tank(s) the FDM will go through the opening, but the alignment tabs are wrong. A 1990 up tank for the same chassis will go right on with no problems and if you can find a matching filler neck then the whole system will be updated like I did with Darth.

Now you understand why I suggested that. FWIW, lowering the float levels can give you hesitation as the throttles open far enough to transition to the main jets. If they wanted to make changing the float level easy then it would be externally adjustable like the ones you hate. If you think some of the US carbs are strange, sometime you need to find a Solex 4A1, a shining example of what happens when Germans try to "improve" on an American design. Take everything bad about a Quadrajet and then modify the good points till they are bad.

None of the AC lines will connect from Bull to Brick. If you are seriously considering the update, the underhood HVAC case openings and attachment points did not change from 1980-1996/7 so a later underhood portion will fit, vacuum line routing and wiring is different in that the wiring is moved to the top of the housing next to the blower. 1994 up trucks had R134a as a factory charge, if you can get an entire AC system from one of those, everything will fit, but the condenser mountings will have to be adapted. I can give you more information as needed. The inside duct work on the firewall will also swap and eliminate the plastic "hinge" in favor of a pivoted door. Vacuum functions are the same.

Gary, if he needs it Darth is converted to 1996 AC system and I have the 1996 EVTM.

Sometimes, even in the flatlands, you can't see the forest for the trees.

Gary, and others, it is not just the Bullnose parts, anything pre 1998 is getting to be fun. My best friend (we've know each other nearly 50 years) has a 1995 F350 crew cab dual rear wheel truck with a first generation Powerstroke. He dumped a serpentine belt recently due to an idler disintegrating. It took him going to a dealer who sells on-line to even find one, no aftermarket match. He got the last one they had. Part of this is the manufacturers wanting you to buy new trucks and part probably goes back as far as the "cash for clunkers". The eco types want us all driving EVs rather than internal combustion engine vehicles. As for aftermarket support, a lot of the reproduction stuff is made in China for cost reasons so instead of getting a nicely made, perfect fit part, you get something, that if you are lucky can be made to work. Sources, Rock Auto is one that you have to be careful with as they do not have the updated parts from TSBs or recalls. Specific example, when I converted Darth to EFI and installed the E4OD, I ordered a new plug for the range sensor switch (works as a neutral safety and backup lights control and tells the computer which gear you have selected PRND21 as OD lockout is electronic. Ford updated the E4OD switch due to water incursion. If you order a complete switch, the new switch includes the pigtail kit to update to the 1994 up style. RA makes no mention of this nor due a number of other sources. I ended up with a pigtail for the early switch, which my transmission already had the newer switch, the plug was damaged which was the reason for the replacement. Gary's favorite, Amazon, can give you some strange results, like telling me the Kelsey-Hayes pigtail to connect the Genesis brake controller to my 2009 Flex with factory trailer tow package wouldn't fit. It was the exact PN K-H specified for my application, or ordering a replacement fuel pump for my turbo II engine, the one they sent did not remotely fit, it was loose in the noise isolater used in the pump hanger. At least Ford is still the same company, try figuring out Chrysler stuff. I am trying to remember how many changes, it was Chrysler Corporation when my 1986 convertible was built, then came Chrysler LLC under Cerebus Capital, Daimler-Chrysler, Fiat Chrysler Automobiles (FCA) and now Stellantis. It means my LeBaron, is now related to Fiat, Peugeot, Renault, Maserati, Ferrari and a few others, not counting ancestors of the current ones, like Hudson, Nash, Rambler. The bad thing is the major decisions are coming from Europe.