85lebaront2

I used a Detroit Locker in my drag car with 9" wide slicks and 4.56 gear and love it at the strip, never had the car on the road so cant say how it is there. I figured if it did not work out for the track I would use it in my street car. I also have a Lock Right locker in a 92" wheel base factory v8 car and as Bill pointed out can be fun once you know what it will do in turns. In the rain you had to be on your game as it would go sideways even from a stop with out even trying and it has a 2.89 rear gear. Dave ---- 92" wheelbase and 2.89 rear, would we be talking about a Sunbeam Tiger maybe? Or a V8 swapped MGB?

18-8 CRES in what condition A or B? Major difference in strength, also problem is mostly a galvanic corrosion issue. Coat new bolts in RTV so water can't get in between them and the aluminum timing cover.

I would agree, and that should improve the turning radius also…. But talk about a lot of fabrication! 😓 Justin Wheeler used to frequent the FTE diesel board until he leaned toward a Cummins engine, and has done probably the nicest coil conversion I have seen. The watermarked photobucket thumbnails are all that is left, but you can still see his handiwork here: https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/1992-f350-cc-drw.610907/ Aren't some of the later Superduty models live front axle with coils? If it weren't an opposite drop transfer, Dodge used coils up front. I had long thought if I were insane enough to want to convert Darth to 4WD I would want to retain the coil springs. I considered researching how hard it would be to use the F350 twin Traction Beams with coils and adapt my existing radius arms. One thing that keeps me from thinking about it much, Darth, even at 168" wheelbase will turn inside of just about any 4WD pickup. The inside front wheel goes almost 90° to the frame, the trade off is just about everything in the steering other than the box is unique to the crew cab.

I have no idea what, but it may have been that way before I installed it. I had used that sender as it (a) seemed in better condition and (b) the resistance from the ground pin to the frame of the sender was very near 0 ohms, somewhere around 0.3. The other was 150 ohms pin to frame so I added a ground wire soldered to the dummy suction tube and then grounded to the body with a screw. Analog cluster gauges seem accurate until I turn on the lights, then they get interesting, even moving with the key off. I have another interesting issue, the right front window wasn't all the way up when I got the car, probably about 1" low. I was doing some adjusting of the 4 windows over the weekend and found I can't get that window to go all the way up, the regulator hits a hard stop where the end of the large sector gear ends with a partial tooth. the motor pinion hits that and stops. The sector gear and arm are originally separate pieces so one may have shifted. If I take the motor off the regulator, I can manually raise the window all the way up. The two most likely possibilities are (1) sector gear and lift arm have come partially separated (2) the lift channel on the glass is wrong or damaged. Since I do have the innards of the 1985 doors including the glass, I just have to find the causative part and replace it. Regulator and it's inner brace still had the original rivets holding them to the door.

Are you looking under the year and model of the E350? it may be 1-2 years older than the year of the motorhome. It will probably be on the driver's door post under the striker and will say "incomplete vehicle manufactured by Ford Motor Company". If you go to one of the Ford dealers that sell parts on-line (my choice is Auto Nation White Bear Lake Ford) you may be able to get a Ford PN that you can search for a cross reference on.

Gary, those may only show under cooling system. I have yet to figure out what logic is used in parts catalogs. Mercedes-Benz Diesel cars have a "snubber" mount on the front of the engine, to find it you have to look in the front suspension section.

The bottom of the front where it is rusted says "Triple A Specialty Company". I used it today for about 4 hours while I was trying to get the windows on the convertible adjusted correctly.

Gary, that should be the knock sensor, 1985/86 it is driver's side center of the lower intake. So it is between 6 and 7.

It definitely has some heavy duty alligator clamps. Jim, it was at my house in Newport News when he had the fire, that's why it was "destroyed" in the fire.

Yes it is, that's why I repaired it. First use will be adjusting the windows on the LeBaron as it can keep up with the load even better than the factory alternator.

I actually have no idea how old this is, I acquired it a number of years ago. I borrowed it from a friend's shop in Newport News VA to use working on one of my Diesel GM cars as I need something with a good output to crank them rather than immediately buying two side post batteries. While I had it, he had a fire that destroyed one end of the building. I called and asked if he needed it back and was told, oh, that one was destroyed in the fire. I asked no further and have had it ever since. Over the years the original foot in the front came off somewhere and the fan sounded like it wanted to escape, before settling down. I managed to get most of the screws out and found the transformer was loose on it's mounts and missing one screw completely. The bottom was badly bent and the fan had been hitting the case. I had to break one and cut one of the four 1/4-20 screws that held the transformer and rectifier along with the fan motor to the bottom of the case. I replaced all of them with new 1/4-20 bolts and hex nuts with attached serrated lock washers. I fabricated a new foot after finding a picture of a Silver Beauty 8250 but will need to cut the ends off a bit.

It will have 4, they will be 12V power to injectors, bank 1, bank2, O2 sensor. In the picture, the injector harness is the one shorter portion beyond C160. I would start there, on the injector side and using a multimeter, first check that # 5 & 8 injectors are connected to red and one of the other wires (should be tan with an orange hash). Then repeat for # 6 & 7 those should be red power and tan with a red hash. Colors will fade and change after 35 years. Once you have verified those then there may be a wiring issue or a bad EEC. The 4th wire in C160 is the O2 sensor and is supposed to be dark green with a purple hash. One common problem with these first gen EFI trucks, the ground for the entire system is a two 1/4" pin connector that is pigtailed to the battery negative cable clamp. It is very prone to corrosion which will really mess up the functions.

Here is a 1986 EFI harness I sold to another member. C160 is circled, I believe it has 4 wires in it.

Many years ago I built a 9" Traction Lock, 4 pinion, 31 spline that was going to go in my 1966 Shelby. I had a good friend at the nearest Ford dealer who got my a 9" 31 spline Detroit Locker (what was supposed to be in the car). The 9" Traction Lock ended up being sold many years later. I have done a few other limited slip units for people including a recent 10.25" Sterling. FWIW, if you don't mind it's idiosyncrasies, and can afford one, get a Detroit Locker or a similar unit, under power it is essentially a locked rear end, in cornering it drives the slowest turning wheel which is where the fun starts, it will lock/unlock with a loud bang, and on the Shelby would jerk the car a bit sideways in doing so. That being said, Shelby was 2800 lbs, nearly 400 hp with a 3.89:1 gear. It was capable of lifting and carrying the front wheels with drag slicks on the back.

Welcome! SE VA is getting represented on the forums.

I ran into an interesting issue recently, went to start the car and move it and it acted like no fuel. Gauge was showing 1/2 tank so should be enough, right? Decided to check pressure, didn't want to bring the pressure up and the pump was noisier than normal. Took the return line loose and checked flow, lots of bubbles. Got a spare sender that has a bad ground rivet and used it with a ground to the hanger and checked that the gauge went E 1/4 1/2 3/4 F as it should. Time to look in the tank. Chrysler did a real slick trick on the fuel tanks on these cars. The original K-cars in 1981 were all carbureted so had a pickup, return for hot fuel and the gauge sender inserted in the rear of the top half of the tank. When they introduced a TBI system on the high line cars in 1983, they simply added a second, larger opening for the electric pump. The inside of the tank has a "cup" the pump sits in and the returning fuel goes through a check valve and creates a siphon to keep the cup full as the level goes down. The return line is still in the sender assembly, but now has an inside the tank hose to the check valve, The carbureted pickup tube is left in sans strainer so it can be used to drain the tank. The fitting is capped and early EFI pump units have a return tube that supports the pump assembly and is also capped. My though was the return hose may have been improperly positioned and was fouling the float. After raising the back and lowering the tank partially, I siphoned the level down until it drew air. I then removed the pump assembly so I could look in and see if the level sensor float was hitting the return hose. No, it wasn't. Removed the sender and found it was jammed and the float was arm was rotating inside the wiper shaft (hollow). Opened it and found the resistor had partially melted the plastic. Since I was going to need the other sender, I first tried restaking the ground pin, and when that didn't work, due to the insulator being plastic, I added a ground wire by soldering it to the side of the carbureted suction tube outside of the tank and after reinstalling everything grounding it to the body with a self tapping screw. It now works correctly and after adding a bit over 5 gals. of ethanol free premium it reads about 3/4 with what was still in there.

Recommendation would be a 1994 or newer engine as the 302s went to full roller cam and lifters then. If you go to a 1996 engine and controls you then get the OBD-II system. Transmissions changed also, the AOD was replaced by the AOD-E which went to the 4R70W/4R75W electronically controlled overdrive automatics. A lot of these are really not so much a different transmission as a different identification system.

That makes me very glad I don't live in California. Here we have update/backdate laws. I can update to a newer system as long as it is from the same class of vehicle. Ours is strictly visual here, some areas do have a physical test at least on OBD-II vehicles. I have updated Darth from a carbureted 460 with a C6 to MAF/SEFI 460 with an E4OD. Since my emission label says "NON CATALYST" in 1/4" tall bold letters and the air pump on EFI engines only went to the catalyst, I have none of that, evaporative system is still connected. I was able to have the dual exhaust head pipes that originally went to the catalyst connected using a flange off a bad cat that was removed directly to my existing dual system to the muffler (mid 1984 - 1987 system).

Once you get into the EEC-V level, there are solutions, the EEC-V computer (used on all under 8500 GVW trucks and some over in CA) can be reflashed as long as the basic hardware code (located on the connector socket side) matches the vehicle it will be used in. Specifically engine = V8, transmission = either manual or automatic and type of automatic. Example, for a V8 and E4OD the hardware code is ML1-441 and is rather common in E-series vans with a 351. These can be reflashed to run a 460 and E4OD by changing displacement, injector size and firing order with the proper software and an OBD-II communication and flash enabling cable, Gary and I have the Mongoose Pro cables and use Binary editor to change parameters, disable unused components etc. OEM computers are available as remanufactured from a number of sources. This concern is valid and is not peculiar to Ford vehicles. My other perversion is Chrysler turbocharged 4 cyl engines (see my T2K-CAR in Projects) and those of us with those vehicles are in the same boat, with the addition of a much lower volume originally than Ford pickups. It is also compounded by many changes, 3 different computer style since 1983 through the 90s and the last has apparently 3 or more variants that are not 100% cross compatible.

The item next to the left fender in the 3rd picture is a cruise control servo. Since that is an IDI engine, the cable from the servo will (or should be) connected to the injection pump throttle lever. What groups on FB do you mange? I am admin on two, 429/460 Fords and Ford Dually Trucks.

What you have is the infamous EEC-III system. It would have originally had a Motorcraft 7200 VV feedback carburetor. If everything is reasonably intact, I would carefully remove it and put it aside as I am sure there are some people in strict emission enforcement areas who might need part or all of the system.

I will add my $0.02 here, you have the hot fuel handling package. I found a Carquest replacement pump only. Everyone seems to show only the plastic rear tank which I have never even seen one. I am going to look, I may have a pump and sender left over from mine when I switched to MAF/SEFI. Carquest (Advance) PN is: E2510428.

Gary, the diagram is from AllData and I do not have another page. I did go back and look at the 1986 system in AllData and the 1994 Taurus system (I put the manuals for the Taurus in it when I traded it in). I am going to send them to you separately in an email so you can compare. Taurus information did include the connectors for the amplifier and servo.

Gary, here is the 1992 cruise control wiring, note the location given for the horn relay location. Make sure that the connections for the amplifier are the same and that all wires are connected. I saw a dangling loose ring terminal, is it part of the cruise circuit? Note that it shows 3 slip rings (brushes and contacts).

Gary. look at the 1996 EVTM, the speed control switches and resistors are the same, but the 1992 up trucks use a Bosch relay for the horn (1992-93 models still have the vacuum cruise). Obviously it must have worked at some point.