85lebaront2

I do not know of any TSB on relocating the TFI module, that being said, it can be done, and a good source for a heat sink and remote module is a Taurus, it is in the cowl area and has the same heat sink as the trucks, just with two studs where it goes through the firewall to underhood. It will also provide the needed plugs to build the harness. There are 4 different TFI modules, two distributor mounted ones and two remote mounted ones. Gray ones are called push start as the starter circuit pushes the dwell during cranking, black ones are called CCD for Computer Controlled Dwell. The change point was 1995. from 1985-1994 they are push start, 1995 on are CCD.

Gary, the numbers next to the connector face pictures are the harness numbers. 14401 is the dash harness, 9D930 is engine. You get the picture. I had started doing a spread sheet on those, but without the big wiring book I wasn't able to get very far.

Gary, there is a large foldout set of diagrams available (or was) that is more like a blueprint. It has at least partial connector PNs and locations. I had the 1986 and 1990 ones along with the one for the 1990 Town Car. Unfortunately in the rest of the frantic emptying on the stuff in Newport News, they were one of the casualties. Here is their site, but the list only goes back to 1995: https://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

I actually had a car that I ran LT tires on as it took 235/75R15 tires and I had a healthy class III receiver hitch on it. Darth has LT 215/85R16 LR E tires as that is what the school busses here use and as a result they are readily available and not too horrible on cost. My tires will actually handle more than the 7400 lb rear axle capacity.

I would spin it with something else, like I did, I have no idea how many rpm it was but, it suddenly squirted fluid out and worked fine after that.

Mary's cousin had an old Chevy Suburban that he had a similar problem with. Rebuilt pumps would not pump. I was putting the pulley on the 3rd one with my Dewalt cordless impact and my pulley R&R kit. When the pulley slipped and spun fast, we suddenly got fluid out. They apparently pack the vane assembly with grease and it takes a pretty fast spin to expand them.

I just wish I still had the ex-NASCAR 430 MEL engine that I put in a 1958 Country Squire. In stock form it was 375 hp @ 4100 rpm and 490 ftlbs @ 3100 rpm. The one I had was .030 over to make it just under 436 ci. I had a single coupling Hydramatic attached with a Trans-dapt adapter, rear axle was a 2.69:1 9", 235/75R15 Michelin radials. Exhaust was built using 2.5" mandrel bends and run by Auto Muffler King in Newport News VA. Car would go roughly 1 car length and then light the rear tires from a WOT start. Light throttle, we had a traffic circle with the road I was on through the center, shifted into 3rd in the length of that section. I built the car with the intent to enter the Cannonball Baker Sea to Shining Sea memorial trophy dash. Plan was a large capacity fuel system and a car that could sustain long high speed runs. 1973 Galaxie front disc brakes so it would stop well. Externally except for the dual 2.5" tail pipes exiting behind the rear tires (in the low pressure area) and the 15" vs 14" wheels, there wasn't anything to draw attention to it. Unfortunately when dad sold the shop out from under me, I had to move the car and a "friend" who owned a body shop was storing it. I went down there before winter to check the antifreeze, shop and car were gone, never did find it again.

Too bad he didn't need the 460 information, we have that.

Unfortunately, I don't think I have a picture of the complete receiver setup on Darth. He has a V5 rated receiver that is integrated into the rear step bumper. Result being a massive chunk of bolted together steel on the back end of his frame. Original owner haul large horse trailers on that setup. I used a bed mounted 5th wheel hitch.

There is another difference that only applies to the DRW pickups. 1980-84 Ford used Dana axles, in 1985 the Sterling 10.25" axle was introduced and Ford made the DRW axles longer (wider as used) so the inside of the bed became standardized. It made a big improvement as prior to this a DRW bed would not hold a 4X8 piece of plywood flat. Other item, in 1985 Ford changed a lot of items on these trucks from US standard and SAE standard to metric, so be aware that say a 1985 door may fit a 1982 truck, but the 1985 door will have M8X1.25 threads for the hinges and the 1982 body will have 5/16-18 threads in the A pillar for the hinges. It is one of the strange items as Detroit rolled most metric changes in with body/chassis changes (example, GM downsized the B and C bodies in 1977, all body hardware became metric). Engines will be a mix, any engine brackets will be attached with US or SAE standard fasteners, but anything attached to the brackets will probably have metric fasteners.

Gary, I did a quick check. looks good! 1986 EVTM, bingo, there it was. I will look and see which emission diagnostic manuals I have (I know 1986 is here) but I grabbed a bunch of the big loose leaf ones on eBay. I know some of them are later than 1986, but some of it might be useful for someone who is installing a later engine and controls. Maybe as you populate this area, add the "pinouts" spreadsheet. I think I can give you the connector layout for most of them if it isn't in the emission diagnostic manuals.

The steering columns from 1980 to 1991 are angled slightly to the left due to the steering box location related to the cab and dash. Ford used two different steering box locations through 1979, 2WD models it was behind the front axles, 4WD models it was all the way up front with a drag link to the left spindle/hub assembly. To my knowledge there isn't an easy if any way to correct this. When Ford changed the body in 1992, they went to a stub column that is shared with cars (just uses different attachments for different applications).

They made RJM take down the fuel injection site. It was originally "Ford Fuel Injection.com" it was changed to "Old Fuel Injection.com" and it was still taken down.

What I found when my site was up a number of years ago, as long as it isn't proprietary information or trade secrets and you properly cite the ownership of the information you are generally ok. I had a boilerplate copyright for each of GM, Ford and Chrysler stating the information was copyright xxx at the head of each piece of information. A lot of what I had was Chrysler wiring (what a nightmare).

I installed the left side B post trim to see how it will look with the screws and gap between the rear interior trim and quarter panel closed. The top of the interior trim is capped with a chrome section that starts just outside of the pinchweld and goes all the way to behind the top of the rear seat cushion.

That was the idea, so there will be hopefully one good one for the vacuum speed controls. I know mine worked because I used it on my 1994 Taurus.

If all else fails, read the instructions

Thank you,

Here are a couple more pictures of the left rear quarter interior installed in the car. It will all have to come out when the top is installed for access. The upright panel serves as the support for the rear seatback and the cushion goes under the seat back and has two bolts from the front holding it in (for reference a Mustang fastback rear seat is more comfortable. I also have the speaker mounted, I decided a surface mount the way Polk intended will be fine as I only had someone in the back seat once in the time I owned the 1985, it was two teenage girls, granddaughter and her best friend, it was summer and they wanted to ride back there and let their hair blow out behind them. First picture is installed, second is after activating the illuminated entry system, you can see the light source for the lock cylinder halo in the door and the courtesy light in the front lower portion of the trim panel.

First here is the bottom side of the board from SBEC 5235477. Wire is 30ga stranded, cut stripped, tinned and soldered across the broken trace: Here is the other part I have been working on, this is the left rear inside quarter trim. Hopefully the wrinkle will be hidden by the seat cushions. It is due to the foam backing that was put on the lower piece by the upholsterer when he stitched it together. The panel is actually 3 pieces, the lower goes up to the top of the welting, the speaker area is two pieces, the inner of which was covered in a porous cloth and the front which the seat belt passes through and the top boot snaps onto with the top folded.

At the risk of sounding obnoxious, get off your backside and put the EFI system on! Quit fiddling with other crap and get BB running right.

Ok, gentlemen, let me point out a few things: First, if you look inside a manifold designed to run a carburetor for street or road racing you will notice the inside of the runners have a slight amount of surface roughness. This is by design, fuel in the incoming air stream is actually tiny droplets, even though it is called vapor. These droplets are heavier than air and at low velocity (small throttle openings) will tend to settle out of the air stream. The roughness inside the runners helps to create some turbulence to keep the droplets in suspension. Second, plenum volume can play a large part in throttle response, the bigger the volume, the greater delay in the air flow moving to the cylinders when the throttle is opened. The reason most street V8 intakes are set up as 180° design is to keep a relatively constant flow through the carburetor. The original open plenum manifolds back in the 70s were designed for high rpm use and work quite well with their relatively short, fairly straight runners at WOT, they were a pain to get good low end response though. Lets take a look at what happens when the throttle is opened, air flow through the carburetor increases, but, due to the greater inertia of the liquid fuel, it lags, so the accelerator pump is used to alleviate this problem by squirting extra fuel in to make up for the delay. The other issue, when the air fuel mix turns a corner, the fuel, being heavier goes to the outside of the corner, this is where the roughened surface helps, the turbulence at the outer edge keeps the fuel in suspension. Now that we are beyond that, let's examine the very lean condition at transition. This is the area of throttle between idle and cruise and is addressed in different ways, some carburetors actually have a transition slot or hole above the idle circuits that feeds fuel when the throttle plates are partially open, but before the main circuits take over, another solution is multiple booster venturiis so they main circuit comes in sooner. Another item that can affect the transition is the emulsion tubes, surprisingly, the more holes in them the better the throttle response and they can actually make the mixture too rich by adding air to it, specific example, Mercedes-Benz 2.8L SOHC sixes for the 1972 US market had dual Zenith 35/40 INAT carbs, the primary emulsion tubes had two small holes in them where the air from the primary air jet fed into the main well, these carbs were notorious for sluggish acceleration until the vacuum secondary would open. I took a pair of Holley-Weber emulsion tubes from a Pinto and installed them, I ended up reducing the main jets slightly and enlarging the air jets as it was too rich after improving the mixing in the main wells. Float levels can also affect this transition. Since that is a borrowed carb, I would suggest installing one you own so you are free to "tweak" it. If you are still getting the super lean condition at low rpm, with the air filter off and the engine warm, observe the main nozzles as you transition, if the lean condition is there before the main nozzles start feeding then you may need to raise the float level slightly. If the lean condition is around the transition point and setting the idle mixture richer helps, then the actual transition jetting may be too lean (very common on Mopar Holleys untill a transition hole was added).

Holley actually makes a kit for their carburetors that converts to a proper manual choke system. Most of the "universal" ones I used to see had one major issue, the lever was so short that off to on was maybe 3/4" of cable travel where a proper manual choke has close to 2" of travel and the fast idle cam is a smooth piece that allows you to pull it on without having to depress the gas.

When you start on your Super Bee (assuming you ever finish, BB and Dad's) will we need a Mopar sub forum?

If anyone needs any of what I have, let me know, those are all extras.