85lebaront2

You have to remember the same fuse box is used in both 2 dr and 4 dr models so multiply the current draw of one lock motor by 4 and test at stall where it will be the max load. Windows are generally run one at a time, maybe two, not all four at once.

Gary, that may be true, but in posting that you confirmed my thoughts, that the cab harness is essentially universal other than the ammeter variable. The Diesel specific items are probably like the difference between EFI, FBC or DS-II/DS-III as each is essentially an "extension" of the cab harness to adapt for the specific powertrain.

The trick would be to take the relevant EVTM and start by going through the front end harness sections and comparing first connector numbers to see if the basic 14401, I believe, harness is essentially the same, I do know that the 1986 gas engine one is common to all from the 4.9L to the 7.5L as the EFI or Feedback carb systems are plug-in pieces. I learned this when my son had a 1986 F150, 5.0L EFI and I had (and still do) a 1986 F350 7.5L carbureted with hot fuel handling package. fuel pump relay and inertia switch were identical, but the wiring layout to them was different, his being controlled by the EEC and mine by an oil pressure switch. Fuel tank electrical plugs were the same, his harness and mine were very different as his had 3 fuel pumps (2 in-tank and one on the frame) and mine just had 2 very low pressure in-tank pumps with a motor driven 6 port selector, his had the automatic switching valve/filter/reservoir on the frame.

Most likely it was assembly plant coding to make sure the correct bed was dropped on the frame on the line. If you have ever been to one, it is an amazing and very busy place, I had been to the Norfolk Assembly plant several times, first time as quite young, probably 4 or 5 (somewhere before Sept 1951) and they built both cars and trucks there, engines were red or green depending on whether they were for cars or trucks. Went back in the 60s and they were still building both cars and trucks, the last time was after they were only building trucks before it was finally closed. Shame, because that plant had a world wide quality reputation (I learned this from a Mercedes-Benz truck rep). If your truck has an N for plant code it was born there.

I gave up my paid membership on FTE after Gary invited myself and a few others as founding members on here. I still get periodic emails asking me to reply to a post or private message, but just don't visit there much any more. There is another forum I am on that was bought by VerticalScope Inc. and I am not over enamored of the changes they have made, some are better as the basic layout now pretty much matches a lot of other sites, other ones not so much.

You could put a sign up there "Warning - Hyperdrive Active".

My son used Darth in setting up and tearing down the Vietnam Veteran's Haunted Forest in Norfolk Virginia's Botanical gardens. The "roads through there were built for a tram (train of open sided cars towed by a rear-engined tractor, made up to look like a caterpillar and are maybe 9 feet wide. The cars follow the tractor similar to airport baggage carts or farm trailers and the "road" reflects that. He was able to drive through them in Darth without any issues except occasional "brushes" with small branches on the rear fenders. I am not saying I would go up a jeep trail, but having seen a comparison recently by a bunch of real crazy off roaders, the Big Bronco did damn well, went places some smaller ones had trouble with. If I were going to build an off-road truck, I would start with an old M37B1 truck, put better gears in the axles (original is 6.37:1), better brakes, power steering and probably a decent 318, probably an older polyspheric head model and a 5 speed. Since the transfer case is divorced, it just needs room for a short driveshaft. I swore if I could get traction I could drive one of those straight up a wall. I pulled a 350 gpm portable pump that one of my fellow USMCR drivers had gotten stuck in the sand up to the axle on it's trailer (used M38 Jeep wheels) and simply pulled the extendable tow hook out to it's longest position, hooked up and used 1st gear Hi range and walked it out. I got real good at double clutching as 1st and 2nd were unsynchronized in those trucks.

Should be the same as the 1990 F250 I parted out. they were 9/16"-18 same as my dually, but had cone seat nuts with a 1 1/6" hex. Ford also used some smaller hex nuts at least on the 2003 E250 my friend has, they have a smaller hex and tend to bind for some reason. Dually has "floating washer" nuts so they have a flat contact with the rims.

Gee, Darth has I think 102" to the tailgate, and can seat 6, but the center front is a bit narrow, rear is a full width bench. Rear floor is flat, front has the tall hump (all the crew cabs got them) so leg room in the center isn't great,

I had a car with mechanical injection and worked on a lot of them. It was Bosch mechanical and the cars were Mercedes-Benz models. Mine was a 1961 220SEb, and I serviced and set up a number of the later 280SE/280SL models and had to remove and send for repair one on a 600, it sat down in the V on the 6.3L V8. Real pain to remove, then disconnect the battery so no one could accidentally crank it and ruin the engine.

Boy that Dodge brings back memories, I helped a friend with a 1956 Dodge pickup. He too kept it all Mopar, 360 engine built with 10:1 compression, moderate cam, Edelbrock intake and Holley 750 double pumper. Use a 727 Torqueflite, but Ford 9" rear and (big mistake) Mustang II front suspension. He bought a painless wiring kit for it and their steering column (pure GM), A set of Explorer power seats. He outsmarted himself a couple of times, first was the brake pedal, he bought a nice kit to put a dual circuit power brake under the floor, had a nice small OD dual diaphragm booster to use the stock pedal. He didn't think the pedal looked right so he shortened the curved portion then couldn't understand why he couldn't get and brakes. I asked him didn't he remember older cars where the pedals came up through the floor and the pad was pretty much vertical. He rebuilt the pedal the way it needed to be. Then he wanted to use the original hydraulic brake switch, we ended up with a nice Chevy lever actuated switch from the 40s. He had started wiring it before he asked me to help, I would have done the wiring differently, I did mange to conceal the voltage regulator and Mopar Performance ignition system under a nice polished box on the left side underhood, found him a 12V wiper motor and ran the engine wiring nicely along the inside of the valve covers. He had the entire front clip welded and filled, but kept the clamshell hood. He stuck the vacuum pump for the brakes on the inner fender, can we say drumhead! I relocated it to the side of the frame just outside of the booster, it was a demand pump, only ran with low vacuum, which it needed due the the cam he used. Fun truck, he drove it about a year, decided he wanted something different and sold it.

What he said Its got to feel good putting stuff back on hopefully for good. Dave ---- Thanks guys. It was originally going to get done after the 1985 was totaled in 2009 but several things sort of got in the way, like retiring, doing some things on the house over here on Virginia's appendix, selling the house in NN etc.

Pretty standard setup, just make sure your lock motors do not draw to much current for the relays in the alarm system. Are you going to amaze people at the next Garage Mahal show by remotely rolling and unrolling the bed cover?

Nothing more on the hazard switch, but some more progress. I had gotten all of my rear interior pieces together and found in looking at the parts list that they are built in 3 sections then pop riveted together, 13 rivets per side. Chrysler serviced them per-upholstered and you ordered them by interior color code in the case of mine, cordovan, EE8, the 1985 was almond, EK1. I drilled all the rivets out of the cordovan panels and carefully removed the upholstery and took the pieces to the shop up the road. He told me all he needed was one side, he could do a mirror image for the other. Once he has those done I will glue them on and cut the belt, access panel and light holes. I still have to find something for the speaker panels, my late wife and I did the 1985 ones in the almond with material from a shop in Hampton. I also tried to see what was keeping the analog instrument cluster from working, it was just oxidation on the pins and connectors. I hit everything with some Radio Shack contact and volume control cleaner, plugged and unplugged everything several times, and it works perfectly (I wanted to use it as I set the odometer to the correct mileage). Dash without the bottom panel. Right rear quarter area and seat back support. Left side sill cover fitted (keeps the pinch weld from destroying skin and pants). Dash with lower cover installed.

Let me chime in again. You need to do some basic diagnostics and not just throw parts at it. First item, you should be able to hear the high pressure fuel pump when the key is turned to run, it will power on for a short time then off again this is to pressurize the fuel rails on the engine. If this is happening hot or cold then that part is working correctly. Now, when it will not start hot, try several cycles of the key and listen for a slight change in tone of the HP pump, you should hear it change to a slightly deeper tone as the pressure in the system comes up. Once you hear that, try a hot start, if it now starts fairly normally your problem is fuel pressure leakdown. If that isn't the problem, then it on to the ignition system. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and place it near (1/4") a piece of metal on the engine and either have someone watch it or them crank the truck and you watch. You should have a nice blue or yellow/blue spark. If it is orange or no spark, close the gap up to 1/8" and try, if you now get a weak spark, replace the coil. If both these tests yield satisfactory results, see if the injectors are triggering, they are wired in two groups of 4, the 4 end ones (1458) and the 4 center ones (2367), you should be able to feel the "click" of the solenoid in the injector. If not, then either the ECM is bad, or (more likely) there is a wiring problem. These 1985-86 EFI trucks have some of the crappiest wiring I have seen since the old rubber and cloth wiring in the 50s. Good luck with it!

One of the problems I have seen with the 1985/86 5.0L EFI systems is the single ground connection for the entire system. It is near the battery negative post and is an open to the elements 1/4" blade connector. Since it is right at the battery the fumes given off in charging corrode it resulting in a bad ground. I would cut the connector off, put a solid ground lug on it and get another cable and run it from the block to the fender bolts and also ground the harness there. Second item, both my son and I have had bad issues with non-Motorcraft replacement electronic (sensors, modules) on these systems, Behind your battery is a bank of solenoids and two of them are for the EGR valve, these are a vacuum and a vent solenoid, if these are "chattering" then you will need to check the voltage on the throttle position sensor it is supposed to be set to 1.0 +/- .2 volts, if it is too high the EGR will be trying to open at idle, the only adjustment is the idle speed screw and if it will not come down to the proper voltage, there used to be a bypass kit from Ford for these problems.

Damn, I just looked at my 2020 PP taxes, Darth is assessed at $1000, probably because of being a DRW F350.

My only concern looking at it, if someone thought the handle was just stuck and yanked it hard it might open, but if it didn't it might jam the lock so it wouldn't move at all. I would definitely think about having access to the inside of the mechanism.

Gary, you do remember the tailgate is removable. This means that an electric lock will need a disconnect in the power cable. Maybe make a nice clean, but sturdy cover for the handle that can be locked over it. One possibility that would give you a secure, locking storage area, one of these Jobox units that will sit low enough the cover can be pulled over it and if you have a "second story" of junk, put it on some heavy roll out rails to where it comes out to the tailgate area for access and ease of removal when not in use.

Jim. don't take yours apart, if he needs inside pictures it's supposed to be mid 60s here. Left end of panel: Center of panel: Width of panel:

Gary, the Bullnose tailgate mechanism is simply two pull rods and a scissors style mechanism the handle actuates. I can take pictures and measurements of Darth's since he has a 1996 bed and later tailgate.

Jim, you don't use a spreader on the 10.25" Sterling, the Dana 60, yes. I doubt he has a 9", the 460s were only put in the over 8500 GVWR trucks from 1983-1997. As for pulling power, Darth does quite well with the 3.55 gears and the original owner bought him for towing large horse trailers (four or more horses). I pulled a 10K 5th wheel with him and towing he actually got what is normal for an unloaded French 454 truck, 8 mpg. Welcome to our little "asylum" and we will try to help you with information and resources.

Gary, might work, might not. Tailgate latches through 1986 were plunger style into a latch plate. Starting in 1987 through end of the OBS bodies (1996 for F150 and F250LD and 1997 for F250HD and F350) they are the station wagon style, similar to the doors. A dual rotating pair of hardened "jaws". The early ones can be defeated (or opened) by forcing a big screw driver in and forcing the plunger in one side at a time. The later ones, the actual locking mechanism has to be released by pulling the rods (there is an access panel on the inside of the tailgate). A friend over here had a Dodge Ram with a fiberglass cover on the bed, it actually covered the top of the tailgate and could be locked. I do not remember the brand and he (a) sold the truck and (b) is now in Idaho.

The pedal box on those is narrow to fit the 260 in there. There are access plugs on the sides to allow you to insert the 13/16" spark plug socket (or, since it is an English car, sparking plugs). There were actually 2 prototypes, one done by the group that raced Sunbeams in the US and the other by Shelby American. Shelby's crew first removed the Sunbeam worm and roller steering gear and linkage an put an MGB rack on to allow the engine to sit back far enough for decent balance (the Sunbeam center link went behind the engine and the double ended pitman and idler arms allowed easy change from right to left hand drive). The two prototypes were flown to England and Lord Rootes, who was in his 80s, took the two cars for a spin, and came back with Shelby's design and said "How soon can we start building these?" Sunbeam was at one time a big name in European racing and Lord Rootes was well aware of the history and heritage of Sunbeam. When we lived in Virginia Beach, dad bought a 1963 Alpine, 1725cc with an overdrive, he found out the OD unit was trashed and ended up selling the car. Neighbor across from us had a 1964 Alpine which had a Solex 2 barrel, dad's had dual Zenith downdrafts on it, later models had SU and the Zenith Strombergs. Last vestige of Sunbeam in the US was the Plymouth Cricket, a Hillman Avenger.

It is the mixture control and is a duty cycle solenoid in that it pulses the small valves that control the air bleeds to the idle and main mixture passages. I have never heard one make that much noise, they do "tick" when running. I would first make sure it isn't loose on the bowl cover. If it isn't loose and the crimp on the "can" portion (where that actual solenoid part is) hasn't come loose then I would see about finding a replacement. Feedback carburetors, with the exception of a few Ford ones used a duty cycle solenoid for mixture control, and a soft ticking noise is the norm for them, in fact if you don't hear it or can at least feel the pulses, there is a problem. Maybe someone on here who has removed the feedback system might have a good used carburetor for parts.