85lebaront2

Dane, Darth was not available from Ford in a 4WD model, F350 SRW yes, or there was a company that bought F350 DRW crew cab and chassis models and put pre 1985 beds on them (they had Dana axles so were narrower). If I were going to do it, I would like to do it like the newer Superduty models, live axle with coil springs so he would still ride nicely, then all I would need is a step ladder as the stock height on him is up where a lot of 4WD models are. Basically whatever the height of the rear lift blocks are is the difference. Other problem, the CBBT charges car rates even for DRW trucks as long as they are under 8' to the top of the cab, Darth is a little over 7' stock so goes through at car rates.

You have two things on that truck that I don't. One I haven't really found a need for, 4WD, the other I will never put on Darth, Headers. I have had two cars with Headers on them, my 1964 Falcon I had Hedman Headers on as they were the only company that had them for a 1963/65 V8 model. They were a royal pain due to the short hood and need for a clutch cross shaft. The right side wasn't too bad, left side, front tubes came down and back normally, rear two went outside the front and went out under the frame rail and back in to get equal length tubes. The Shelby originally had the Cobra tri-y headers until they got so thin they weren't repairable at which time I put Hooker 1 5/8 primary ones on (listed for 351W and Shelby only). I got very good at changing gaskets on them and I had real asbestos ones (this was in the 70s).

Ok, I have the list for connectors and splices printed out. C134 - LH side of dash panel near ignition module (underhood) C135 - On rear crossmember S108 - in the harness probably near C134 S113 - probably the same area On the splices, factory they are essentially spot welded. I would unplug C134, C135 and the fuel tank selector valve. Check continuity from C134 Circuits 739 and 808 to the selector valve connector and 739 to C135. 808 will involve unplugging the front tank connector, since it is working I would leave it alone. Circuit 286 is rear tank sender and Gary has a chart (I believe) on the site with resistance values. You might get lucky and find C135 unplugged or just plain dirty. Good luck!

Very true, whether restoring or restomoding as Gary and I are doing, he with Big Blue and Dad's and myself with Darth and T2K-CAR. There is a lot of work, sometimes a real, oh crap, what do I do now moment when something didn't go as planned, or you find a mystery leak. Occasionally you have a piece of electronic gear that the smoke leaks out of.

Gary, I had a real nice system on my 1985 LeBaron convertible, it was manufactured by a company in Northern VA, Design Tech, unfortunately they were bought out by Directed Electronics, who promptly killed all the Design Tech equipment. I have a couple of systems floating around, one is a Chapman security system that I removed from a friend's Dodge Ram, it had that and a code alarm remote start system. As for remote lock/unlock, starting in 1994 Ford added that and an anti-theft system as an option. The remote locking system is the same as a Taurus, just lacks the trunk feature and external keypad. It requires a slight rewiring of the truck power lock switches and also provides a "time out" feature for the courtesy lights. I used one from a Lincoln Town Car on Darth and plan on using the "trunk" button on the remotes to trigger the Code Alarm remote start module. In my opinion, the Viper units are way overpriced and the funniest story on them goes back to the shipyard. They have a proximity sensor on them and I was walking into work from my parking space (rented) and there was a car in one of the lots I passed through repeating over and over "Stand Back! Protected by Viper!" the range sensitivity was set so that an adjacent car in a parking space would set it off. One of the nasty tricks people would pull, find one with a shock detector set too sensitive and bump it as you walked by, headlights flashing, horn blowing etc., do it a few times and run the battery down. Vibration, Matt set off one in a Chevette with the exhaust on his 140hp Corsa, the frequency of the duals with headers and glass packs on that flat six triggered it. Good luck on finding a good system!

Jim, you have to remember, EFI was being rolled out in steps, 1985 - 5.0L EFI, 1987, 4.9L, and base 5.8L EFI, 1988, all gas engines got EFI. The other item was the 460 hot fuel handling package was used when certain criteria were met, AC, hot climate or ambulance chassis where vapor lock would be an issue. The EFI had one or two in-tank pumps, probably 10-15 psi and a high pressure pump 35 psi on V8s and early 6s, 55 psi on later 6s, the hot fuel handling package was 2 low pressure pumps 6 psi is the spec and those needed a 6 port motor operated selector valve that also changed the sender connection as 6 psi wasn't enough to work the selector valve for the EFI system. 351 carbureted engines used a mechanical pump and 3 port valve.

Jim, I am aware of how the F series and the 89 E series I had worked on were set up on the EFI systems. The 460s with the hot fuel handling package used the 6 port motor operated valve. The EFI systems through 1989 used the diaphragm operated switching valve in the fuel reservoir (filters were used in 1985/86 on F series).

Looks real good! The fence looks like the one I had in Newport News except mine had fancy tops for the panels. Maybe I should get two of those for Darth.

Ok, first, the E series wiring is different than the F series, for one thing the grounds for the tank units are at the nearest cross member, not brought up inside the body like the pickups. The diagrams I am finding show the three pump system, but since I do not have what I believe to be completely correct information regarding the reservoir for the high pressure pump (maybe the 1985/86 E series didn't use it, I know the 1989 E series did as I have dealt with one of those. Here are the two versions I have found, both show a tank selector valve which is probably the big motor operated 6 port the carburated 460 with hot fuel handling package used in the F series. Maybe one of our parts guys can shed some light on the plumbing. Here is what I have found: First the 1986 E150 diagram: Second one identified as 1985-1987 multiple applications. This shows both a tank selector switch and a tank selector valve, I am interpreting that as a one or the other, not both as theay are show as wired in parallel.

Try this: Note there is no G701 listed for the E150, also the tank unit (pump and sender) are grounded near the tanks rather than being brought up inside the cab.

Your E-series is very similar to the F series of those years, but I can't swear that all the wire colors etc. are the same. You should have the fuel reservoir on the frame near the high pressure pump. This also functions as the tank selector valve, it has two diaphragms in it that are pressurized by the in-tank low pressure pumps. On the rear tank, not having had one out on an E-series, I can't say how hard it is to get to the connector on the pump/sender assembly but those are a common problem on F-series trucks of that era. There will be 4 wires into that connector, red/yellow is pump power, orange is gauge sender and the 2 black wires are grounds. Looking at my AllData diagrams, it does not show the reservoir, but shows a motor driven tank selector valve like the 460 engines with hot fuel handling used. The diagrams also show that the grounds for each tank are near the tank, G402 is the rear tank and location is given as "attached to center of last crossmember". This is based on you having the EFI engine and implies that only 2 high pressure pumps were used which I question the accuracy of as I worked on a 1989 E-150 and it still had the three pumps and frame mounted reservoir.

No, you would have to study the light bulb, do an analysis on why it needs replacing, check prices on six different sources, divide by delivery time, add fudge factors. Then think about it before just grabbing one and replacing it.

How old are you? I will be 75 in May, my late father did a head gasket on his Toyota Supra Turbo at 80.

There is also on Navy work a pull out spec that varies with cable size. I tested many of them for X31 (electricians).

I imagine the reason for so many different harnesses is due to the continuous design, so any difference in cluster or engine results in a different PN.

Good point, the older switch is a lever style like the blower switch, the 1996 is a rocker switch up by the headlight switch.

When I did mine they didn't exist and the bulk of the information I was finding was telling me to use a Mustang EEC-IV box with a piggy back tuner such as a Moates Quarterhorse or TwEECer in order to (a) change the firing order and (b) change injector size and © cylinder displacement. I still had to find an EEC-IV box that included the necessary circuits for an E4OD. I had finally found one from a Bronco 302 w/E4OD and was trying to find how to modify the transmission parameters as I really didn't want to be buzzing a 460 up like a 302 and I wanted to be able to keep the converter clutch on longer to keep the heat buildup down (the torque converter is where most of the heat buildup comes from). End result, while posing the questions on EEC-Tuner and TwEECer sites Adam Marrer (POPS Racing) contacted me and after some back and forth suggested that an EEC-V would be better as they can be reflashed as needed once the initial "crack" of the computer is done using a token. They (Core Tuning) use Binary Editor to write the code for the EEC. There was one glitch in the older release concerning the canister purge setup. The OBD-II systems which the EEC-V was designed for, use two different purge systems, the standard one with the solenoid purge valve and a later design with a Vapor Management Valve (VMV on diagrams). The CANP system needs a tank pressure sensor as it normally uses a small pump to pressurize the tank on initial start and if it does not see the pressure sensor and a rise in pressure, it sets a code. The VMV system uses a duty cycle solenoid valve to operate a diaphragm actuated purge valve and this feeds into a nipple on the PCV valve tube from the back of the plenum. The CA spec, MAF/SEFI 460s used this in 1996/97 trucks with an E4OD. I have installed tis on Darth and once the new engine is in, I will flash one of my EEC-V boxes with the changes including the VMV system. Biggest issue when doing a 460 to MAF/SEFI is finding a big enough MAF sensor, the 302 and 351 engines use an 80mm MAF, the 460s take a 90mm, but they are more common than you would expect, many mod motor vehicles use a 90mm MAF so othr than having to come up with an MAF/air filter combination that works, it isn't too bad.

Having never worked on wiring on the older Diesels I can't say how much difference there is. I have determined that a lot of the gas engine variations were done with harnesses that plug into a pretty standard front harness. On your truck the front harness probably follows the same design as the gas engines in the fact that it runs from the right headlight area past the right side battery (only one on gas engines) back along the inner fender, through the firewall under the HVAC or heater case, across the dash and back out through the left side of the firewall and up to the left headlight. Because of the design replacing it is a real pain.

Gary, E6 = 86, F6 = 96, just be glad we are working on vehicles old enough for the PNs to make sense and not like GM or Chrysler where it is just a string of numbers. You don't want to try and see the logic on the newer Ford PNs. Battery tray for my 2009 Flex is AG1Z-10732-D, but the wheel bearings (hub and bearing) are BT4Z-1104-B. I guess the center part of the numbers still match the older PNs.

Welcome to the group! Glad you found us and I hope we can help you with any issues you run into.

I had to build a negative cable for my 86 Chrysler convertible. Chrysler used a "soft" alternator mount so the alternator case has to be grounded, the engine is grounded at the head and there is a body ground also. To compound matters, the ground cable is integrated into the engine harness, which means the ecm sensors and the gauge sensors run through the cableway. Here is a picture of the original and the one I made.

Probably would, just have the right diameter and go with it.

One of the improvements on the later trucks was a clear lens and bigger at the same time for the backup lights. Matt had put a set of 1996 taillight assemblies on his 86 F150, but didn't like the way they fit the bed, they're the ones on Darth and they look perfectly correct on the 1996 bed.

Gary, it is a K-car convertible, meaning smaller inside than a Taurus. The original factory system was 4 5 1/4" speakers, 2 in the doors and 2 in the rear seat side panels (where the top mechanism goes) and then 2 3" on top of the dash. The baffles are to cover the normally open back side of the rear speakers and there are 2 shallower ones for the front speakers due to the windows coming down there. The normal sub woofer location would be in the rear shelf area, but a convertible doesn't have one, something about a top well with a liner and drain hoses. Crutchfield recommended the rear baffles due to the fact that the back side of those speakers aren't enclosed. Here is a picture of the dash top speaker on the driver's side, and one of the center stack put together. The button with AC on it is the hazard warning switch, and it is the one I need to find a red or clear lens for, and if clear a red hazard triangle on it.

Thank you, it did work nicely with one small problem. The original speakers had a plastic grille with see through black screen glued to it. These are probably 3/16" tall and take up most of the space between the speaker and the top cover for the dash. When I put the new speakers in place, the mounting tabs were too wide for the well the speakers sit in and the left one's terminal board wouldn't fit due to interference with the instrument cluster recess side. Right one went in ok except for the tabs being too wide. I ended up taking the old plastic grilles and cutting the centers out leaving me with a ring with tabs that is an exact match for the partial ring the original speakers mount on (partial, due to the cutout for the Chrysler terminal board). Since I had glued the salvaged terminal boards in the same angular position as the originals they pass right through the openings. I took the newly made spacers and found 4 M6X1.0 prevailing torque nuts that exactly fit the space between the tabs (speaker and spacer). I installed them that way and re-installed the dash. The front door speakers I am going to mount through the door panels and use the grilles they came with as the original location is at the bottom of the doors near the hinge and the original grilles only cover about 3/4 of the speaker, the remainder is blocked by the trim on the door panel. It will mean having to remove them to get the door panels off. Now to the rear speakers, these are located in the inside of the quarter panels, inboard of where the top mechanism folds and the back sides are open into the top well. Crutchfield supplied some nice molded foam acoustic enclosures for both door and rear speakers. The original Chrysler speakers are the same for door and rear, Crutchfield's choices are different, Retro Sound for the doors to deal with the extremely shallow area available (window front tip comes down right behind them) and Polk for the rear ones. Chrysler used two screws on a diagonal and provided alignment tabs that are used on the doors to put the wiring board on the bottom so as not to interfere with the plastic rain shield. The Chrysler bolt circle is larger than the aftermarket speakers, but the OD of the grille area is the same. I took some heavy gauge sheet metal and made mounting rings that fit over the outside of the foam which also spaces the speaker in so it fits against the molded ring on the removeable speaker panel.