85lebaront2

What you are going to need is the Ford VIN number for the "incomplete vehicle" to figure out the spring information. If you are lucky the spring code will be on that sticker. Due to the increase in weight over a E350 van they may well be a special spring requested by the RV builder. The other option would be to take a page from the Chevrolet P30 motorhome chassis. They were so overloaded from the factory that they had airbags in the front springs to keep the ride height where it needed to be. Good luck with it! I changed the lower spring "cushions" on Darth a few years ago as his were pretty rough and they apparently are the same from F150 to F350 as the pretty nice ones Gary took of Dad's Truck fit perfectly.

So far we've been fortunate here on Virginia's appendix. The last storm went mostly Northeast of us. Across Chesapeake Bay they weren't as lucky. Williamsburg got hit with an ice storm along with Chesapeake and Virginia Beach. Main part of VA has the two Dominion Energy Nuclear plants, Surry and North Anna and Dominion's agreement with the adjacent Northeast grid allows them to shed it to prevent outages in their service area. This has happened twice that I know of, one was the great NE blackout, at that time they were still VEPCO. Here, our electricity comes down from MD and we have a cooperative, Accomack/Northampton Electric Cooperative who buy it and resell it. They own the distribution lines South of the VA/MD line. This is a somewhat scary situation, a few years ago, fortunately in mild weather, the main transformer on the MD side blew and it was 4 or 5 hours before power was restored. We have no natural gas service here, only Propane and my heat is a high efficiency heat pump, with the propane furnace for alternate/emergency heat.

The fellow I was helping with the 1956 Dodge used a Mustang II swap, he really needed something a bit heavier as once we got it together he was almost at full compression just sitting there. He pretty well stayed with Mopar running gear except for the narrowed Ford 9" rear. He had all the seams in the front end welded and filled so the doghouse, less the clamshell hood had to be put on as an assembly. It took 4 of us with everything carefully padded and the frame as low as he could get it with the front wheel off. He had already started wiring it before he asked me to help him. He bought a painless wiring kit which is geared toward GM, so it had a Chevy column in it. He stuck the fuse box way up in the corner of the cab, and then I had to extend the wires to reach the column.

No brand name anywhere. Back side has some thread charts including Whitworth. It really does seem like a nice set of calipers, all metal, at least the parts that need to be. It is accurate enough that that is what I measured the seat belt bolts with.

Good point Jim, Darth, with the 1996 dash has both and idiot light with a battery symbol and a voltmeter. If you look at the diagram, there is a "fail safe" resistor in parallel with the light, so even with a burned out bulb the LG/R wire will still be powered with the key on.

These showed up one day in my FB feed and having had a couple of pairs that quit, these were cheap enough to try. They measure to the nearest .0005" or .01 mm and seem pretty accurate. They are metal which beats the cheapo ones I bought at AutoZone (plastic, no depth capability and only read in .01 inches or .1 mm increments.

What is being described is probably one of the reasons the AOD was dropped on the 300 after only 1 or 2 years, the other is probably the torque of a good 300 probably destroyed the AOD if it was used hard. When Ford upgraded the AOD to first the AOD-E and then the 4R70W the OD for the 300 had to wait for the E4OD. I had a 1977 F150 with the 300 and a C4, the man I bought it from said he had the C4 rebuilt because it had burned up. My former Dept. Manager has a 1987 F150, 300 with a C6, again probably due to the torque output of the 300.

The outer front bolts were shoulderless top and bottom, the inboard bolts, I believe had shoulders (they should match Big Blue). Rear belts were like the top illustration, note it shows 1983/ F350 crew cab where the lower shows 1980/ Super Cab with forward facing rear seat (it has a very narrow cushion) and says crew cab. Maybe Ford changed in 1983 along with all the other detail changes. Darth's original rear belt system is what the top illustration has except I do not remember a shoulder bolt on the rear outboard retractors, they were solid mounted with no movement. I found that since the back wall of the crew cab is the same as the single cab, the holes and mount for the single cab shoulder harnesses were there. I picked up an extra set of belts at Pick-n-Pull and installed them. Hope this helps. Current belt setup is the same as I described, except I had the 1996 (bottom retractor location) belts stitched to my retractors so I have the opal gray interior belts. Inboard ones were just pulled from the 1996 crew cab. Bill On Sun, Feb 14, 2021 at 2:56 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] wrote: > Bill - You said the reels on Darth are held with shoulderless bolts. But > what about the bolts into the floor? And, do you agree with the revisions > below? > > > > > Also, what's the difference between the above illustration and the one > below? Both supposedly are for a crewcab. I'm confused! > > Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile > > > *Dad's* : > '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" > w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches > *Blue:* 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a > 3.5L EB & Max Tow > *Big Blue:* 1985 > F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac > in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI > > > ------------------------------ > You have been tagged to come see this post. > View message @ > http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Seatbelt-Anchor-Bolt-tp88424p88525.html > NAML > >

You can keep it out there please, it's bad enough my Seabee buddy in MS sent his weather prediction for sub-freezing temperatures (he's on the Gulf Coast). I just sent you via email measurements of the 8 different seat belt bolts I have, 4 Ford and 4 Mopar.

In my opinion the 9" truck rear is stronger than the 8.8", it also has either ball or roller bearings that are pressed on the axle. The 8.8" has roller bearings that run on a hardened axle. If you wipe out a bearing on the 8.8" you may also destroy the axle. Changing gear sets, on the 8.8" you have an integral carrier, meaning either you work under the truck or remove the whole thing and take it inside. It requires the differential bearings be shimmed for preload and backlash, then you run a pattern and if you did everything right your are good to go. Any pinion position changes require disassembly and reassembly of the pinion and bearings. 9", the hogshead is removable from the axle housing and can be worked on by itself. Pinion preload is set once and the pinion bearing carrier is moved in or out with shims. Differential bearings are adjusted with threaded cups, allowing the preload and backlash to be easily adjusted.

I can confirm that the reels on Darth (all 4 of them) have shoulderless bolts. They have to or the reels would move around. FWIW, the crew cabs have the mounting location for rear outboard shoulder belts, lower holes have rubber plugs as they go through to underneath, upper holes aren't tapped, but the bulge in the corner trim is there with a plug in it where the belt will pass through.

I guess I need to save this chart and inventory my seat belt bolts (at least the Ford ones).

At some point Ford did away with the lower bushing with the idea that the pilot in the block is (a) more important for alignment and (b) the cast iron/steel shaft with plenty of oil will outlast and bushing © if the distributor assembly to block alignment is off a few thousandths it will eat up the bottom bushing rapidly, (d) the upper bushing rarely was lubed during services so wore faster, with no lower oil can reach the upper easier. I don't think my EFI distributors have them, in fact they have a seal at the bottom.

According to my 1984 FSM, the clutch amp draw would be 4.7 amps. Below are the amps for the blower on F150-F350 and Bronco with standard and high output heater: I couldn't find anything specific regarding the amp draw of the AC Blower...it is slightly different isn't it? I assume it is a higher flow (thus higher amps) than the standard blower? The only other power consumer in the AC system would be the solenoid on the carb, which might draw and amp or two?...I'm not sure. (Not present on the 460 and Diesel anyway...just the "little" engines, like mine lol). FWIW, my Chrysler convertible also uses a 30 amp fuse for the AC blower. Clutch is harder to determine as it is fed through a relay underhood that gets it's feed from a 40 amp maxi fuse that also powers the fan relays so with the AC on and hot conditions, it may pull near 40 amps with the cooling fans on high. Car has what Chrysler calls a 90/140 alternator, which if I remember correctly is 90 amps continuous and 140 amps peak.

I never had a motorhome, but I towed a 30' 5th wheel with Darth, in fact that's why I bought him. Best mileage towing was 7-8, worst was towing at 70 staying with a group of mostly motorhomes going to an event in North Carolina. Lead vehicle was driven by a woman who was born in Germany and was a teenager during WWII. She thought she was on the Autobahn! Mileage on that run was about 5 as we were doing 70 into a 35 mph headwind. Running empty or loaded with no trailer, 10 mpg, since the EFI and E4OD conversion, high was 12.5 and this is with a well used short block and topped with early EFI heads, compression ratio is probably 8:1 at best. I have yet to find something Darth won't pull even with the 3.55 gear. BTW, the 12.5 was cruising at 75 on I-70. My rpm at 55 is around 1500, used to be 22-2500 with the C6 as it depended on load and terrain. As for comparison with Gary and Jim's trucks, Darth is a crew cab DRW F350 and weighs on a certified truck scale 6400 lbs empty (both tanks almost dry). Hope this helps.

Yours is noisy, must be the headers and lack of a decent exhaust system. Darth is pretty quiet unless I have the windows down, then the front passenger seat belt flaps like a flag in a hurricane. I have a Pioneer DEH-X6600BT that Matt gave me for my 65th birthday. It does quite well, the microphone is up near the left sun visor and I have no problem using it unless I have the windows open, I just have to close them to use the Bluetooth feature.

S is the spark port and is not used on your application, mine did, here is the emission label from mine: There is a list of acronyms on the site but I will try to identify the ones on your diagram. ABV - Air Bypass Valve (diverts the air injection) PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation HICV - Hot Idle Compensator Valve (bleeds air into the PCV line at high underhood temperatures) A/CLDV - Air Cleaner Diverter Valve (provides heated or cold air to the air cleaner) PURGE CV - Purge Control Valve (2 of them, controls when the canisters are purged) SOL V - Solenoid Valve (activates the throttle kicker to open the throttle) EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (dilutes the mixture to reduce NOX levels) TVV - Thermal Vacuum Valve (controls vacuum signal to various components) SV-CBV - Solenoid Controlled Carburetor Bowl Vent (closes bowl vents when engine is running) A/CL CWM - Controls vacuum to the large inlet on the air cleaner TK - Throttle Kicker (opens the throttle when vacuum is applied) VDV - Vacuum Delay Valve (one way valve with a restrictor in one direction) VCV - Vacuum Control Valve (2 of them, thermal controlled to change vacuum applied) V-REST - Vacuum restrictor (slows the signal rate with an orifice) Hope this will help, if you can read the label with the actual version such as 4-98S-R10 there is a listing of PNs for missing components.

Just because on the 3.8L it sits almost against the upper plenum shouldn't be a problem, GM would put it on straight as long as there were a few thousandths of space.

The EGR tube is the signal for the EGR valve from the carburetor, and you definitely have a can of worms with these engines. Be glad you do have the diagram, as the ones I have are simply black and white. The original plastic vacuum lines were color coded as the diagram reflects. I do have the 1986 Engine/Emission diagnosis manual, Volume H, all 1 1/4" thick of it. One area to watch out for, on the group of vacuum lines running down the inner side of the right (passenger) side valve cover, near the center they run over the exhaust cross over passage and can actually burn through from the heat. I assume yours has the dual air pumps and all the affiliated clutter on top of the engine.

Jim, you asked me if the pigtail had LSA molded on it. All I see is ASI. I did not pull it to check the other side though. According to Painless, this is what I need for a 3G conversion. Again, it is very high quality as compared to the other pigtail I have. Regarding the secondary color markings on some of the wires on my alternator harness, there are none on the three yellow wires, nor is there another marking on the red wire. I've been up every inch of the wires. See photo That Alternator, with the right angle stud adapter looks exactly like the one on my Taurus did.

That is a completely different column, it is what I have in Darth. Your column is a shaft in a tube in another tube.

Gary, that was going to be my suggestion, a mower shop as the cable core is the same type of wire.

First, Darth had and still does have two canisters. I have a VMV on Darth as the Adam was never able to get the code for EVAP from coming on. The VMV is connected into the system so it will control the canister purge. You could either use a dummy load on the circuit or an extra solenoid valve to provide the required load for the EEC. It doesn't really have any sensor to monitor the flow unlike the CANP system that looks for a pressure sensor signal. The over 8500 GVW trucks, even in the 1996 models did not have a sealed tank system, if you look at the picture of my front tank you can see the hose running across the frame.

Jim. the OBD-II has two modes for EVAP. one is the pretty standard CANP valve, these in OBD-II usually have a small vacuum operated air pump that applies pressure to the tank(s) and pressure transducers in the tank(s) to measure this. If it doesn't see the pressure, it sets a code. The second system uses what is called a VMV, or vapor management valve. This is teed into the line from the tank(s) to the canisters and is operated by manifold vacuum through a PWM solenoid valve, this adjusts the flow into the PCV line much as the carbureted snake's nest of hoses and valves did, except the snake's nest fed the canister vapors directly into the front 4 cylinders on the intake, the VMV feeds into the PCV line that goes to the rear of the plenum.

Gary, if you have the same tank setup Darth has, my tank vent lines are 3/8" going to the dual canisters and a 1/4" (I think) going to the nearest frame crossmembers to the tanks. I found that the later trucks all have larger vent lines, probably to allow for the heating of the gas in the pumps and from the engine as it returns to the tank. If you are going to do away with the canisters, I would definitely recommend the later, larger vent lines. BTW, without the canisters, you are going to have gas fumes, especially in warm weather, and the HD (over 8500 GVW) system is no closed, it does vent to atmosphere at the rear and cab rear crossmembers.