85lebaront2

Jim. it is also interesting that it was done away with after 1986. The newer master cylinders still have the residual pressure valve for the rear brakes, but no longer have the proportioning function. I removed the valve on Darth when I went to the newer booster and master cylinder. I used an inverted flare union where the RWAL actuator went on the 1990 and gave it and the electronic box to my boss as cores for his 1987 F150 2WD.

I may need to get one of those, I have a smaller one that is hard to seat anything much bigger than 1/4"/6mm.

This is one of those "I'm glad I updated Darth's wiring to 1996" moments. My backup light circuit comes up to a 16 way underhood connector, then goes in through the 76 way connector (in picture) and has a branch that isn't used and back out through the 24 way connector. I also have, in the auxiliary relay box next to my PDC, a trailer battery charge relay and a trailer back up lamps relay. I have added by using an auxiliary relay box from a bronco instead of the two relay box as it holds 4 relays, left and right signal lamp relays. That way any trailer lights are isolated from the truck lights with the exception of the 7 rear and fender clearance lamps. Those are on a relay that also powers the trailer running lamps. I suspect the unused backup lamp feed could be used on a wrecker for floodlights in reverse.

I may have to look into some of those for my Lebaron convertible, it takes 4 of the smaller rectangular lights, and I am trying to replace as many lights as I can with LEDs. I already have all the rear and the front other than the headlights converted. Turn signals and hazard still function normally since it has an electronic combination flasher.

One day I will do sway bars to the truck, most likely when they fall into my lap LOL The kingpins were frozen on my truck and needed to be replaced. I was going to use and had bolted in the parts truck suspension as it was in great shape then fount out my wheels would not fit as the bolt pattern was different and did not have a set of wheels for them so have to have new bushings / pins installed in my setup. The is where the problem started. I was told by 4 different people there was only 1 shop that would press the bushings out / in and ream to size. Well they did do the pressing and reaming but when reaming they reamed EACH bushing to fit the pin from EACH side and not parallel so the pin would go through both bushings. I did not find this out for a few weeks latter when I went to mount the spindles to the beams and could not get the pins to fit. This also happened over Xmass / new years holiday and they are only open M-F like 8-4 and with my work hours I could not take them back like I should have. I used a brake cly hone to make the bushings larger for the pin to fit but I still had to drive them in a little. I do have a reamer now and should pull the front end apart to ream the bushings. Dave ---- I have an actual king pin bushing reamer. It has a long shaft with the adjustable cutters in the middle. There is a tapered cone guide that is placed in the end opposite the one being reamed so that the reaming is straight and in-line for both bushings.

Jim, it was Iaccoca's friend who he had helped in the 60s by agreeing to first sell him engines for his Anglo-American sports car then later helping to spice up Ford's new sporty car, the Mustang. After Lido was canned at Ford, he went to Chrysler. One of the stories that surfaced was that the K-cars were a design Ford had been considering, but the concept was scrapped with Iaccoca. His first step was the Omni/Horizon pair using engines and 4 speed transaxles sourced from VW. in 1981 Chrysler introduced their 2.2L OHC 4 and the K-cars originally pretty basic family cars and surprisingly roomy inside. Engines were the 2.2L and a Mitsubishi built 2.6L. By 1982 the 2.2L was now in the Omni/Horizon. In 1983 the "super K" models were added, Chrysler Lebaron and Dodge 400 and some of the Lebaron and Dodge 400 2drs were modified by an outside shop into convertibles. In 1984 Chrysler added the Dodge Daytona and Chrysler Laser to the line and put a turbocharged 2.2L engine in them and the super Ks. Logic was Chrysler did not have a V6 to compete with GM and some of the imports. As some of the imports were now coming with more powerful engines help was needed, so Iaccoca called the man who he had helped as head of Ford. First out was the Omni GLH, a high compression 2.2L carbureted engine putting out 110hp in the little FWD sedan. These evolved into the GLHS with the Shelby developed 2.2L turbo II and intercooled system that pumped the engine up to 170hp. These cars were built by Shelby in Wittier CA and have Shelby VINs just like the 60s GT350 Mustangs. Randy owns GLHS #60, hence his user name on forums.

If you need the wiring differences I also have the 1999 and 2005 ignition switch and cruise wiring diagrams saved for you.

Rusty, those are some nice looking PDC modules! Good find. It is nice to see there is finally some nice aftermarket power handling stuff being made even if it is Chinese.

Gary, those PNs are from the sources I get the parts from. Go to Dorman's site, AUVECO or Clips & Fasteners and plug in the PNs I gave for those sources.

I imagine on the 1999 it is probably very similar to the one in Darth. I was trying to see where the gate portion is located but not having any luck. Found some views on AllData, column is apparently the same stub column Ford has used for years (our 1990 Town Car had one of the first ones). The shifter detent or gate is on the top side of the column near the bottom and is held on with two Torx screws. There is a pawl that protrudes from the shift tube that engages the detent holding or restricting the shifter movement. Here are some pictures, the closeup is from the 1996 column in Darth. This won't solve the problem, but as near as I can tell swapping the ignition switch from the old column and maybe the steering wheel might solve the electrical issues.

I got the panel installed, all wiring connected and ran some quick checks. Flasher works as intended, push the button, it extends a short distance and the hazard flasher blinks everything it is supposed to. Lights on and the little window at the bottom of the lens illuminates. Since the original function on the GM HVAC control is to tell you the mode or item is active (Recirc, Rear defrost, AC compressor on) it is more of an indicator light than an illumination light. I will probably see if I have something for a clear or translucent lens and then take my lathe and remove enough of the rear face to get the lens out I will remove a portion of the barrier so the light will hopefully illuminate more of the lens area.

The column has what is actually a gate, the plate that the shift lever tang rides against so that it stops in certain positions and is blocked from moving beyond some areas until you raise the lever. Park is a positive lock, Reverse a smaller one, Neutral and Drive or Overdrive can, on most be freely moved between, 2 and 1 require raising the lever to go into, but some do not need it to go back the D or OD. I don't have a loose column with the gate, but do have a couple of Chrysler floor shifters with a similar design. They have a top button to be depressed. As to why, possibly the tang was broken or the gate was missing. The valve body detents are primarily to keep the manual valve in place once a gear is selected and it allows for wear in the older mechanical linkage. Due to the mechanical advantage most shifters have there is actually very little if any "feel" to those detents.

Crap, probably buried somewhere in the MPC.

Gary, once the EFI is functional, the EEC controls the pumps. It will cycle the selected tank pump to pressurize the system, then shut it off. Once the EEC receives the "engine turning" and starter powered it will energize the pump and start firing injectors using the "start" table. Once the engine is running it switches to the normal fuel and spark control. If the engine stalls, the fuel pump is turned off for safety. As a result, there is ne need for the oil pressure switch unless you want it as a protection device to shut the pump down if there is no oil pressure. However, the EEC has to receive the needed signal from the FPR (called FPR monitor) so it knows the pump has power.

Randy, if you go to "projects" there are several threads on what some of us are doing. I have a couple there, one is on my truck, aka Darth Vader, the other is my turbo II Lebaron T2K-CAR. That one has a lot of documentation and pictures.

Glad you took a second look and remembered the carbureted setup was for break-in and not permanent. For now, if you want to retain an oil pressure operated pump system, simply change the wiring on the existing oil pressure switch to ground the relay coil or change the switch to a late model "sender" which is a reverse function switch (open with no pressure, closed with pressure).

1990 Lebaron convertible, now installed in my 1986 Lebaron convertible.

Jim, OD of the lens is 0.57" or 14.48mm, thickness is 0.22" or 0.56mm. I would probably need to get the lens out and find a clear piece of plastic that I can put the red triangle on.

Ok, so far, 1999-2005 way different systems, does the column physically look the same (I doubt it) as the ignition switch on the 99 looks similar to the 1996 one in Darth, the 2005 is completely different. I have the column from the 1995 F450 Jim parted out, but it is a manual transmission one so probably won't help you. I have saved the pertinent diagrams as pdfs, give me an email in a message and I will send them to you as zipped files.

Let me see if I can find electrical differences in my AllData, mechanical I probably can't get anything definitive.

Yes, it should, may be brighter in one position than the other as the button and light were part of a GM HVAC control panel and the light may have been active only with the button in (on position). I have it like the later Ford ones, off is in, on is out.

Maybe you need one of these relay panels:

Now, other than an appropriate lens for the hazard switch, here are two pictures of the revised panel: Front and back I glued the plug parts to the respective switch assemblies so the wires will not be pulling on the connections. The hazard switch is set up so in is normal operation and out is 4 way on. Now I need to find either a small red lens or a hazard red triangle lens to fit.

I see you also grok things and have read Hitchhikers Guide to The Galaxy.

Gary, I am thinking that further back in that book the individual harnesses are shown and that may be where I remember the PNs for the connectors being.