85lebaront2

Gary, will this help you? Also I will throw the control modules in.

Welcome to our group! FYI, hot fuel handling package was pretty well standard with AC from some point in 1984 through 1987 on the 460 trucks. I have a 1986 chassis harness from my crew cab when I converted to EFI. It is 35" longer in front than the standard cab and is missing the plug for the 6 port valve. Since the valve and pigtail are available it is probably what you need. I also have the trailer tow harness (I think) and all of it is just taking up space.

Think we all upgrade our trucks to be more to our liking. I swore I would never do EFI cause you have more issues with failed electronics or if there is a EMP blast it could effectively knock out your computer since it is constantly powered unlike a solid state ignition module like a DSII which would not be powered up till the key is on. But now I have aftermarket EFI on my list which doesnt have a battery hot to keep the ECM active at all times and im also looking at going with upgraded internals on a C6 build for my truck mainly the E4OD planetary gear set to get a lower first and second gear for better acceleration/pulling. Im also drooling over the Currie Enterprises 9" third member with the detroit trutrak installed with 3.25:1 axle ratio for under $2,000 for my truck which I feel would be a perfect upgrade for the old 2.75:1 axle ratio currently in my truck that is closer to 2.55:1 with the 31x10.50-15 tires I run. The 3.25:1 would put me around a 2.90:1 and a 3.00:1 which is my other option would put me around 2.70:1 but I feel if I can swing it I rather go with the 3.25:1 long as I can keep 75 mph around 2,750 rpm for my camshaft. Would love to go over drive but I do want to do some towing and with how hilly it will be where I will be moving to eventually I wont be able able to attempt and maintain a 65 mph speed outside of over drive on the highway that is posted 75 mph with everyone doing 85 and 90. I know for a AOD with its high over drive ratio I would need to run something like a 4.11:1 to have my final drive ratio around 2.75:1 so I wont lug my little 302 down too much. Alternator upgrade is a must, I have a 1G but I am adding so much aftermarket high amp systems such as halogen auxiliary lights and aftermarket EFI, I really should go with the 3G upgrade if only I could find a small case wide ear patterned 95A unit I would be real happy, I know they existed for a time but seems everything with the wide ear pattern is all large case 130A units now which I could never utilize all amperage with a single V belt. Muffler wise, I might need to change mine as I cant decide on what size single exhaust for my engine setup but Magnaflow has a 6" round 3 chamber muffler just like OE in roughly the OE dimensions which I have currently but wont use if I decide to go with the aftermarket 3" Y pipe and run my whole single exhaust in 3" pipe vs the OE layout of 2 1/2" to 2 1/4" tail pipe. On the tax aspect, thats what bothers me, my truck used to be registered as a Texas Truck. But Texas got rid of their Truck registration which used GVW for a means of taxing so my yearly registration which used to be $65 is now $95 almost as they now tax my truck like a car by bluebook value vs by GVW. Im hopeful I can some how work some magic and get the property I have with in requirements to get Farm Truck plates, it would allow me to get access to AG Fuel as well as lower taxes on the truck. Rusty, I have 3 spare EEC-V boxes (I used to have 4 but one is now in Skiatook OK) so failure will not disable Darth other then long enough to swap one. Exhaust, since you have a 302, it isn't as big an issue for good exhaust flow as a 460 in a 168" wheelbase. 3" should do great, My 1966 GT350 had Hooker long tube headers when the original tri-Y ones became as porous as a screen door. They were 1 5/8" primary and 3" collectors and were listed as "351 and Shelby only" they exited through Hooker Header mufflers just ahead of the rear wheels. I was turning that engine to 7000 with a redline of 7500 and coupled with the dual 465 cfm Holleys it was pushing 400 hp with no power adders (Nitrous or forced induction). On Darth, I still have the factory style dual 2 1/2" pipes to the muffler which is just forward of the axle, then the 3" tailpipe over the axle and out behind the dual rear wheels. It originally had two screens in the end of the tailpipe as a forest service required flame arrestor. It was needed with the original carburetor and dual air pumps. It actually shot a 3 foot flame out with a semi cold engine towing a 30' 5th wheel, reached the top of the on ramp followed by a slight additional rise for an overpass, then as I started the down side of the overpass and let off the throttle "boom" and 3' flame, scared my wife as she was following me in the Pontiac. I did some quick cross sectional area calculations the other day, 3" pipe = 7.0686 square inches, 2 1/2" pipe = 4.90875 square inches so dual 2 1/2" = 9.8175 square inches or 1.389 times the area of a 3" pipe. Since the muffler is probably 7' or more behind the engine the exhaust has cooled enough so the muffler/tailpipe isn't much if any restriction. I now understand why, in addition to more room in the back, Ford used rear mounted mufflers for a long time.

(Before I say this I'll say that I know that Jim and Gary, while they may "bicker like two old women", do respect each other. I respect both as well, so this is not intended in any way to be an attack against Jim.) I'm with Gary here, and I applaud his efforts to make Big Blue drive the way he wants. I had a 2002 F-350 and a 2008 F-250. Both of those trucks were much more refined and much more capable than trucks from the '80s and '90s. But I hated them. I'm not saying that they were bad trucks, and it wasn't anything particularly objective that was wrong with them. I just hated them. I went back to a '97 truck that I really like and something huge is going to have to change before I could see myself owning a truck newer than that. I know Gary isn't as much of a dinosaur as I am. He does have (and seems to like) a 2015 truck. But he does appreciate the character of older trucks as well. And that character doesn't have to include "unpleasant to drive". So again, I applaud his efforts to make Big Blue be the best of all possible worlds. And for what it's worth (which is quite a lot actually), on Christmas night Lesley and I went to a drive-thru light display. The guy who took our ticket going in said "hey, I like your truck!" And the "kid" at the Pronto Pup stand at the end asked what year it was. When I said 1997 he said "cool!" (the truck is probably older than he was). And it's not like my truck is in mint condition, or special in any way other than being an old truck. That's the kind of character that a 2020 truck will never have. New trucks have a lot going for them. And for people who want them, great. But I could afford to buy a 2020 F-250 crew cab to replace my rusted-out hulk. But I'll be getting another truck from the '80s or '90s (probably the '90s ) and trying to make it be the best it can be. (But probably not going to the extremes that Gary does to do it ) Some of us do like older trucks, and some have owned them a long time. I am only the 3rd owner of Darth, original owner was DelMar stables in Suffolk VA, the man I bought him from in 1994 bought him in a used car dealership in Kentucky. I bought him for $4500 in 1994 at the campground in Gordonsville VA. I have, as Gary has, upgraded a few things, from carbureted to MAF/SEFI, C6 to E4OD, open rear to traction lock, rear brakes from 2 1/2" wide to 3 1/2" wide. Replaced the bed with a 1996 one as 1985-86 dually beds are impossible to find. Upgraded the crack head power distribution and alternator wiring to 1996 style, replaced the 2G "flaming Ford" alternator with a 160 amp 3G. Interior and cab, replaced the damaged and rusted front doors with later model one, replaced the rears with 1996 full power ones, seats were non-stock when purchased so they are now 2000 Lincoln Continental 10 way power with memory capability. Added a remote keyless entry and door keypad. Updated dash and steering column to 1996 ones. He still has the original 1986 muffler and original king pins and on a smooth road, you need to watch your speed, even with the HD dually suspension, you will find yourself lulled into being well over the speed limit. Later model weather stripping, floor insulation and the later doors with sound deadening make him rather quiet at highway speeds (he'll cruise quite happily at 70+). Yes, I could have bought a newer truck, but, I still have no ABS, no air bags, and no catalytic converter. Taxes are a lot lower than a new truck, and we do own a 2009 Flex (mine) and a 2011 Flex (wife's) so are aware of the improvements. Until the introduction of Ford's new 7.3L gas engine, there wasn't a gas engine in a newer Ford truck to equal the 460, even in it's eviscerated state it was sold in during it's last years. My son's V10 Excursion with 3.73 gears vs Darth's 3.55 has no where near the low end torque, he needs 2nd gear in his 4R100 to do what Darth does in 3rd in the E4OD.

Gary, Jim, there is an internal bypass on the 300, it is a hole in the block that connects the front of the head to the water pump where the heater return hose goes in. I thought I remembered one being there from working on a few of them. Due to it's location, much like the V8s, it doesn't really help purging the system. The "setscrew" on the thermostat housing might be a bleeder screw to aid in purging.

I actually didn't do it, couple across the street in Newport News had a daughter a month older than my granddaughter. She was a member of a cheer squad and they wanted to do a float for the parade. He borrowed a low boy from his landlord and then realized he had nothing to pull it with. He borrowed Darth, borrowed a pintle hook from a friend of mine who owns a trailer and equipment company. He took my 5th wheel air deflector apart and mounted the antlers to the frame. A borrowed (from his landlord) generator in Darth's bed ran the lights and a turntable on the float. Their son rode in the back seat and someone older rode in the bed to tend the generator. The sign on the bumper was the name of the cheering squad. They were unit #60 and took first prize.

Inserts for cupholders.

I believe, but would have to do some digging. I used the booster from the 1990 parts truck and ordered a master cylinder for one with the later speed control as I needed the port for my trailer brake controller (yes, I still have a nice hydraulically operated brake controller). I had to use the front port as the residual pressure valve would keep my brakes applied. Since I was also planning on using the electronic cruise control anyway, I needed the extra port.

Part of the issue is the flow rates are at different pressures, higher pressure = lower flow. Test for flow is with no restriction, just emptying into a container for measurement. Since you never had the feedback crap in Canada (a lot smarter than we were here) I would treat it like my 1977 F150, 300 6 with only PCV and evaporative system, no AIR, no EGR and no catalyst. It probably would have taken the M6807. When I pulled it out and put a 390 in it, I sold that engine to a friend's son who swore it was worn out (blowing oil out) I think I left the 1977 fuel pump on it and transferred all the emission stuff, manifolds included. His problem, PCV line into the intake was plugged.

Dane, as in two digits? Darth always got right at 10 with the C6 except when towing the 5th wheel. He has gotten as high as 12.5 running 70 on I-70 going to my son's house in WV from the Eastern Shore. On a Christmas note, here are some pictures, first Darth a number of years ago set up for towing a float in the Hampton VA Holly Days parade: Then some items wife got for me for Christmas:

Now I have to find it, I probably put it up on my "storage floor" over the office, bathroom and wood shop. Once I track it down I will pack it and the spare modules and send it West.

Yes, FedUp deposited it against one of the railings on the front steps, still looked nice and flat. I will open it and have a can of Ford Blue in hand or should I prime it first? Need to get this weather front you people out West sent us for Christmas.

Gary, the blower motor wiring is the one place Ford used the 0.110 pins in a connector (inside) that really needed bigger connectors due to the current draw on high. I have run into more than a few where the plug was partially melted from the heat. At a minimum they need to be new and probably greased to prevent corrosion.

If you order the MC for without cruise or the pre-1993 cylinder there is no extra port. I used one for with cruise as I needed the extra port for my trailer drake controller.

Merry Christmas to all, and a Happy New Year!

Jim, I would be willing to bet that either you have a lot of end play on your crank or the ring gear was installed either too far back, or backwards. The latter was a common issue on the FE engines as the original starter was the old 'folo-thru" Bendix drive, that had small spring loaded detents that (in theory) would keep the drive engaged until the engine started. These came into the flywheel ring gear from the back side, when Ford switched to the moveable pole piece starter it engages from the front. Ring gear teeth are beveled on the engaging to enable the gears to mesh easier. If the bevel is on the wrong side it makes it harder for the gears to mesh resulting in chewed up teeth. The reason I say too far back, the gears are chewed up halfway across like they are not fully engaged.

Gary, I don't know what the ratings are. FWIW, in 1987 when Ford went to a large round connector on the driver's side, doing away with the 1980-86 continuous front and dash harness, they used the .110 pins, in 1992 when the next update came the system changed again, the front harness was completely separate from the rear chassis harness instead of everything going through the firewall in one large round plug and the rear harness plugging into it. The new system I'm sure was partially due to safety requirements, air bags specifically as I believe take up either 6 or 8 pins so the front harness plug set, C202 has 76 pins of which 24 are .110 and the remaining 52 are .060. All the high current wires use the large pins. The rear chassis plug set, C205 has 24 .110 pins as that carries trailer brakes, lights, marker lights (for DRW), fuel pumps and gauges and the 3rd brake light wire for a camper shell. I don't think even with every option all the holes are filled however.

Scott, it depends on what I am working on, I have lots of salvaged connector bodies and on Fords a good source for components for them. Chrysler, in addition to colors and circuit numbers that change between years and even between bodies in the same year parts are not readily available, newer stuff to some extent. As a result my audio system harness from radio to amplifier uses 2 Ford 10 way male/female pairs, one gray and one black so I do not have to pull the amplifier harness out to remove the dash.

Gary, I believe I have an extra pair of the factory 42 way engine harness connector. The male and female connectors are readily available from Dorman. This is the big square plug attached to the PDC mounting bracket. Everything for the engine except the alternator goes through this connector. It replaced the bank of 4 8 way connectors used from 1987-1991 (Huck would have had them). Connector pins: .060 male - E7EB-14461-BA, AUVECO 20475 .060 female - E7EB-14487-AA, Clips & Fasteners A18408 .110 male - D1AB-14461-AA, Dorman 85345, AUVECO 14887 .110 female - D1AB-14488-CA, Dorman 85346, AUVECO 14888 Either 2 or 4 of the pins (corner locations) are .110, rest are all .060. The 8 pin connectors from Huck are .060 pins.

Gary, the PDB for the Powerstroke goes in the same location as the gas engine, but the wiring harness routing is different between the two as the PSD also has another box behind the PDC, the injector drivers. My PDC and front wiring harness came from a 1996 PSD. I eliminated the injector driver wiring with the exception of the ones from the PCM to the injector driver, I used them and the matching colors I had so the colors are correct going to the 42 way engine connector plug.

Exactly, the PSOM simply generates the pulse format that the EEC and cruise control need.

Gary, you are overthinking things again. You remind me of my former department manager at NNS, whose initials are CES. We referred to him as Complicate Everything Snyder. The PSOM converts the pulses from the rear, I think it is 120 per revolution, into a format the EEC and speed control can use, ie, same as the older speed sensors. I don't know whether the Ford speed sensors generate a positive pulse of do like Chrysler and pull the signal wire to ground. Whichever it does, the PSOM emulates it. In 1993 Ford trucks had the electronic speedometer and the vacuum cruise control, 1994 is when the electronic one came out. Since the vacuum cruise control works with either a speedometer cable/dummy sensor (I ran Darth that way until I got the later dash installed with it's wiring) or the PSOM, that would indicate to me that the PSOM outputs a signal equivalent to the unit on the transmission or transfer case. You also have to remember that (a) OBD-II was mandatory for cars and trucks under 8500 GVWR for the 1996 model year, the same weight break applied to air bags and (b) the over 8500 GVWR trucks for California and I believe Massachusetts had OBD-II which is why the 460s stayed with EEC-IV except for trucks sold in those states. Since all of Ford's pickups had RWABS from 1987 on, it meant that the rear axle speed sensor was there, but used only for the ABS system until 1993 when it was used for the speedometer. Since the EEC-IV system needed a speed input the PSOM was used to provide it.

Gary, the answer to your question is yes it will, the 1992/93 aeronose trucks had the electronic speedometer and a vacuum speed control system. All the PSOM does is provide the speed signal in a format the rest of the electronics can use. Here is an aeronose speedometer disassembled: First, the PSOM board on the speedometer, it does three things, converts the pulse signal to a format the speed control and EEC can use, provides a signal to the speedometer movement (a magnetic gauge) and stores the mileage (up to 999,999.9 miles). Second, the meter (back side) of the board. Third, the actual meter portion of the speedometer. Fourth, the odometer display with it's ribbon cable. Extra, here is the chip from the electronic cruise unit. If anyone comes across a Lightning I would love to get one of those speedometers, they go to 140 mph!

Ok, let me run through this. Starting in 1987 the truck EECs started using the VSS signal that already existed for the speed control if installed. There was also a rear axle sensor for the RWABS system added in 1987, this was a tone ring on the differential that is simply pressed on in the Sterling 10.25". The tone ring has a ring of small teeth, I don't remember the actual count. Ford used a transmission or transfer case speed sensor or an in-line in the speedometer cable from 1987 through 1991 for the EEC and speed control. In 1992 with the last body update to the basic chassis dating to the 1980 trucks, Ford elected to go to an electronic speedometer and use either the existing RWABS signal or on 4W ABS, the ABS composite signal. This is a 100 + pulses per revolution signal. Since the EEC-IV along with the speed control were designed to use a different signal, either both systems needed to be changed, OR the signal needed to be converted to match the old speed sensor output. With the introduction of the E4OD and the later 4R70W transmissions, the EEC now controlled them and definitely needed a speed input. This is what the PSOM does and it is only needed IF you are not using a cable speedometer. If you are using a cable speedometer, the in-line or transmission/transfer case speed sensor is used instead.

Gary, all the PSOM does is take the pulses from the teeth on the tone ring in the rear axle and convert them to a speed signal that matches the current one in the speedometer cable. Ford did that when they went to the electronic speedometer. The output from the PSOM had to match the existing pulse count. The beauty of it is, who cares what gear you have, only variable is tyre size.