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Properly installed electric brakes can be great. But, as eTrailer says, if you don't wire them correctly you'll have problems. The wiring going into the magnet, and the magnet itself, is encased in epoxy. So it is just the connections that get wet. Do them correctly and you won't have problems. Depends on the money you pay, at work we buy loaded backing plates from the local trailer shop as its cheaper than buying the shoe kits, the ones Ive installed are like $30 per loaded backing plate and as far as the seals on the magnets and the wires going into the magnets they didnt look quality to me so maybe its a price thing. I know the only electric trailer brakes I have is on a newer truck and my flareside doesnt have electric trailer brakes. I could wire some up but then it poses the problem of where do I mount the unit considering that I already have a large CB radio hanging under the dash and the left side has my toggle switch for my alarm valet mode which cant be blocked and the trailer controller has to be mounted level or as close to level as possible for proper function on the universal units I have installed at work. I guess is does depend on what you are willing to spend. I just ordered and received a Hayes Genesis controller for my 2009 Flex Limited that has the factory tow package. This way I can use my tow dolly to transport the convertible for the exhaust system and any other work on my nice Master Tow dolly which has electric brakes. The Hayes Genesis does not have to be level, it can go up to -35° (control face upwards) and self adjusts once the brakes are applied. I can't use my old super reliable hydraulic actuated one that is on Darth. I started looking on Amazon, but they do not have the Genesis, so I wound up on eTrailer again, eTrailer did not show the 1994-2011 Ford adapter harness, so found it on Amazon. Amazon popped up their "be sure this fits your vehicle" after I entered the PN Hayes gives for a Flex with factory tow package. Amazon told me that it wouldn't fit. I would think the people who made it know a little more than Amazon. One key question was not asked "with or without factory tow package". On the Flex this includes the wiring and an auxiliary fuse box in front of the main fuse box in which the relays and fuses are housed.

I've never had to buy a matched automotive set, but I know it is common in the industrial world. We used to buy matched sets all the time. Sometimes, it was a matter of the guy going through the belts he had in-stock to make-up a matched set. They get all mixed up in shipping, but it is often the case that they have belts from the same batch in-stock...they just don't know it until they look. Here's some reading from Gates: https://ww2.gates.com/IF/facts/documents/Gf000194.pdf The 460s with full dress (AC, PS, Alt, and dual air pumps) ran a matched set on the power steering pump drive as it was also the fan/water pump primary drive. The AC belt also crossed the water pump pulley but it was more of an idler on the unloaded side. Alternator had a dedicated belt from the crank pulley to it, and a little skinny belt from the alternator drove the dual air pumps. Here is a picture from the AC and PS side showing the three main drive belts, and yes, the PS set was a matched pair.

The AOD is unique in that it does not have a lock-up torque converter. And yet it can run without torque-converter action. Unlike all other transmissions, the AOD has TWO input shafts. They are concentric, one inside the other. The smaller, removable secondary input shaft is tied directly to the torque converter’s shell and forward clutch. The larger, hollow primary input shaft is driven by the torque converter’s turbine (torque multiplication) in First, Second, and Reverse gears. Full torque converter action is available in 1st and 2nd gears, and is always there, like a C6 for example. However, 3rd and 4th gears use the direct input shaft, so there is absolutely NO torque converter action in 3rd or 4th, no matter what. In other words, the smaller, direct input shaft connects THROUGH the converter, bypassing converter action completely. This is good for gas mileage. And since there is no clutch in the torque converter nor need to control one, the AOD is simpler. Ford called this design "split-torque" because 40% of the engine’s torque goes through the torque converter as torque multiplication (via the impeller, stator, and turbine), while 60% goes through the smaller input shaft in Third gear. When the transmission shifts into Overdrive or Fourth gear, 100% of the engine’s torque goes through the smaller secondary input shaft as straight drive and lock-up in the gear-train and clutch pack. Tip in the throttle and the AOD goes into Third gear with the split-torque pattern. At WOT, 100% of the torque goes through the torque converter and hollow primary input shaft. Capiche? I was thinking it was the other way around, but it's been years since I had the 1990 Town Car (gave it to my daughter in 2006 after her mother passed away and she needed a car).

Bingo! I checked two harnii and neither have a wire in the pin that the later one says is the Engage Light. Good call, Bill. Now you just need to see if it is a +12v feed or grounds when engaged, then you can add to your bevy of information sources when driving (it will let you know if it doesn't cancel on clutch release).

AOD. 3rd gear is the innermost shaft to the direct clutch. It is splined to the front of the torque converter and is driven directly by the crank, in OD it is split 60% direct and 40% converter if I remember correctly. The AOD towing in 3rd is exactly like towing with a manual transmission. This is also why the throttle rod or cable adjustment is so critical to preventing damage, too much either way can burn it up or break something. For those towing with an E4OD, big secret is a "tweak" to the computer forcing the converter clutch to stay engaged longer and connect earlier. With either a 460 or diesel let the engine's torque do the work. Mine is set for 80% throttle to unlock, which usually results in downshifting and locking up again. The actual gears are not where the heat comes from, it's the torque converter slippage.

You all would have loved this one. A few years ago I had to help my daughter move her stuff from a storage place in Virginia Beach to the house she had just rented in Chesapeake. I went to the U-Haul location in Chesapeake to get the largest trailer (preferably enclosed) they had. I already had my 2 1/2" ball on it's drawbar and a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter. When I got up to the counter the biggest one they had left was a tandem axle open cargo trailer. Of course they wanted tow vehicle information, when I said 1986 Ford F350, I got "we'll have to inspect your vehicle to be sure it can handle the trailer". I said sure, no problem. They sent a kid, who, at the time probably wasn't as old as Darth. We walked outside and he says "where's your vehicle?" I pointed to Darth, and his reaction was, that'll anything we have on the lot. U-Haul, of course, like many corporations is worried about liability, but their data base only goes back about 5 years. I used a weight distributing hitch one time, I was moving a friend's camper up I-64 to a campground that was hosting a bluegrass festival. When I went to get it, I was told he had a hitch for it. He told me that "it's pretty heavy, so you need to set the ball up high enough". I did as he said, hooked up the trailer and raised the jack, Darth's bumper went down maybe 1/2", then he wanted to install the equalizer bars, I said no. I al least want to know it's back there. When I took it back, I put the adjustable hitch ball back down so it towed level, still didn't use the equalizer bars. I told them, that (a) mine was a Ford not a Chevy and (b) was a 1 ton truck with dual rear wheels.

Jim, you are exactly right, braking is more important then whether you can pull it. When we first got our 5th wheel in Feb 1994, I towed it with my 1977 F150 that I had installed a 390 and C6 in with a 3.25 9" rear. It towed the 8800 lb empty/ 10,000 lb loaded 5th wheel, but the first long run with it, up I-64 from Newport News to Gordonsville VA the rear brakes I had just redone burned up the linings. These were, of course, the early post asbestos ban linings so were "vegetable" material. Ford must have learned something between the 1986 and 1987 models, my original rear brakes were 12X2 1/2" which surprised me, my fronts are the same big ventilated rotors with dual piston calipers. When I rebuilt the junkyard dually rear with the innards from the 1990 F250 parts truck, I found it had 12X3" rear drums and used those shoes as they were in excellent condition. It wasn't until later I found that the dually rear was built for 12X3 1/2" shoes which are on Darth now. He stops quite well for a 6400 lb empty vehicle.

FWIW, the wiring on the driver's side inner fender actually has the connection points for the DS-II system as Ford was using both EEC-IV systems for feedback carburetors and EFI and non-computer systems on the heavier trucks. If you go with a GM ignition, be aware that (a) it is a power hog and as a result (b) needs a dedicated 12 or 10 ga wire that receives full battery voltage with the key on. My recommendation for anyone back fitting an HEI system is to use a key on controlled relay to connect the battery directly to the HEI positive terminal.

Look at the plug, it probably does not have a contact in that location.

Gary, the difference on the chip is the source, the E3 is a Motorola chip, the other two are something different which would explain the suffix change. You also have a different pin on one of the tabs on the F1 board, "engage light" which the Taurus did not have, but possibly a Lincoln model did (FiVF is a Lincoln part number prefix). 1991 Town Car with digital cluster has an engage or cruise on indicator.

I have a MAF/SEFI converted carbureted engine in my truck. Since it is a 1986 F350 it is a non-catalyst model. I left the smoke grinder (air pump) mount there, but simply went to a shorter belt on the alternator side. FYI it is a NAPA 060480 and works quite well. If you are upgrading the alternator (I have a 160 amp 3G), I found that a larger pulley (I think mine is for a 3.8L Taurus) or use a slow start regulator it will help with the tendency of the belt to slip after starting. Oil filter, the factory angle adapter clears the frame on mine, but I believe when Gary was researching the frame information, we found, in addition to some interesting anomalies, that the 460 used a different front cross member. This may be the divot Jim referred to.

I had to do the same thing on a Chevy G30 van my wife's cousin owns. All the accessories on the front of the engine are mounted to a big steel yoke that is attached to the four bolts where the 1955-57 front motor mounts went (GM never quit using providing those holes) the driver's side ones had sheared and one hole had a broken drill bit, the other a broken ez-out. I borrowed a plasma cutter from a friend and burned them both out. They had been intercoursed with by two different shops here and ended up oversized. I was able to drill the resulting mess out and made two "inserts" from gr8 1/2-20 bolts drilled and tapped for 3/8-16. One of the things (other than being in a van) was the engine is a special HD model with apparently a high nickel content cast iron and is a royal PITA to drill into.

Jim, I did Darth's 1995 cluster that way and put the older sender in the port on the back of the block.

When I was rebuilding my buddy's 10.25" Sterling out of the truck, I used a big Stilson wrench in a piece of exhaust pipe as a reaction arm. I used a big C-clamp to keep it on as it had to go on the bottom side of the yoke. That way I could torque it properly once I got the bearing preload with a used nut. On his lift under the truck he could probably get it on the top side and not need the C-clamp.

I may have to try 20" ones on Darth. I have had best luck with AutoZone's Duralast blades, and I have tried all kinds over the years. I did try Bosch once, not the Icons though, I don't think they were out then.

They are not interchangeable, the carbureted heads have a vertical oval shape to the ports, EFI a horizontal rectangular shape.

When you consider (a) how far computers have come since the 80s (Apple II, RadioShack TRS 80 etc.) and how far the computers in cars have come, Ford EEC-III, EEC-IV, EEC-V and beyond, Chrysler LM-PM, SMEC, SBEC, SBEC-II and beyond and (b) how small that little black or red box is in relation to the newer PCMs and finally © are the valves PWM or simply open and close? The reason for the last is the early EFI EGR controls were a two valve, vacuum and vent and under certain conditions would "chatter" trying to find the optimum position, later systems use a PWM control.

I also have two of those, a large and a small one, Matt gave me a number of years ago. Since I do not have and cable driven speedometers, the small gets used for throttle cables. It really helps on lawn and garden tractors.

Gary, one of the things to understand, the newer speed control is now part of the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) so it now has the capability to, in addition to opening the throttle, upshift or downshift the transmission as needed. This allows the system to be aggressive if you are well under the set speed and when coasting downhill, downshift the transmission to control speed. The first one of these I experienced was in our 2003 Chrysler Town and Country minivan. If I had it on cruise and entered one of the tunnels on the CBBT with no yankee tourons in the way, it would drop from 4th to 3rd if the speed went much over the set point. With a manual transmission you won't get that. The two Flexes are the same way, but, if I have speed set at say 58 mph, have to slow way down or stop for a light, and hit resume early, say 35 - 40 mph, it will still accelerate aggressively, possible downshifting and a lot of throttle. Since the engines are the Duratech 3.5L, they like Blue, will wind up like one on the old Hi Po 289s (upshift at roughly 6K). Trivia item, the Flex transaxle is a 6F50 and is also used by GM as a 6T50.

Gary, just for the heck of it, you have one of the latest versions of the speed control module (the red one) it is from a 1994 Taurus and I think 1995 was probably the last year to use it. Why don't you try that one once you get the speedometer and cable issue resolved.

If it's like most of those gold colored carburetors it's not even aluminum, it is a zinc alloy called "pot metal" and it will crack, heat creep and strip if you look at the threads hard. The Rochester Quadrajets were famous for stripped inlets.

Perfect. Thanks for the clarification. Gary, I just tried it again using the link you posted. I was able to log in and it showed me as logged in.

Gary, I got an error your login or password are wrong.

Gary, you just reminded me why I don't miss a cable driven speedometer. I used to eat cables on the Shelby. it went from the left side of the firewall to the right rear of the transmission and the driven gear housing pointed down at a 45° angle, which put the arc in the cable right into the collector on the right header. If I got it to not sit on the header it was very stiff turning and would periodically break leaving me with no speedometer. Needless to say I got very good at driving by the tach. Even the Chrysler has one of two electronic speedometers, an analog 125 mph and a digital that should be the same. Why don't you take the best non-NOS one and send it off to be rebuilt and calibrated? Then you will know it's right and concentrate on getting a cable thoroughly lubed and routed without too tight bends in it and getting the speed control working correctly.

That is pretty much what I have except mine is 18V. I had to find it on eBay as the Dewalt store in VB only had 20V ones and I have all 18V tools so I would need a different charger and batteries just for the one tool. The sales lady in VB said you could could change them all, to which I replied, can I trade the others in? No was the answer, so I went looking for a good buy on eBay.