85lebaront2

I am perfectly happy with my dual 2.5" pipes from the manifolds to the muffler (still the original 1986 one) then the 3" tailpipe that goes out to 4" where the two spark screens used to be (no longer needed as no air pumps). The only part that has been replaced are the dual 2.5" many years ago when I couldn't get the front joints apart and then later modified when I installed the EFI system. I will buy Walker and Monroe products, but in my case it is because one of my pension checks comes from them (dates to when we were owned by Tenneco before Northrop Grumman). BTW Jim, to some of us you're still young.

You could also, if it is only powered key on, provide a momentary contact switch to power it, key off in an emergency so it could be used for your radio.

I've been told to stay away from Kevlar actually by quite a few people. What's your reason for going with Kevlar over a standard band? Extra clutch packs for sure would be an upgrade no doubt there. I'm under the impression the apply lever from the Torino case is probably actually better than what's actually in my truck right now but I won't know for sure until I get in there. All I know that's done to my trans in the truck is what I listed. Looking into diesel stuff wouldn't be a bad idea either. I'm expecting this engine to be pretty smooth in torque production with a pretty flat curve, staying right around 500-525 lb-ft from 2000 rpm right up to 5500. The spare case I had actually looked pretty good inside, but I decided to tear it apart anyway because something was messed up and would not go through the gears manually. I used a Kevlar band in my original built A413 (Mopar FWD transaxle). and had no issues. If there are better friction materials available, great. Biggest thing is look at the width of the band and the lever ratio along with the size apply servo. I haven't built a performance C6, but back in the middle to late 60s built a C4 for a 1964 Falcon with a bad case of snakebite (260, Jahns 10.5:1 pistons, Lunati hydraulic cam, 3 Holley 2 barrels on it. It would chirp the tires on the 1-2 shift, and 2-3 was right now, no slip. Had to use thin friction discs to increase the number. Old guy in Virginia Beach helped me build it, I made a case girdle (good idea for your C6) to stiffen the case and increase the capacity. If you are going to have a high stall converter, add plenty of cooling, almost all the heat in an automatic comes from the converter (why I like a lockup one for my street cars). An old AC condenser, not one of the newer multipass ones works quite well.

Yes sir, C6. I'm going to be putting 500hp through it and possibly a 150 shot of spray on top. So far I have an external filter and cooler, deep pan, shift kit, S code servo, pink band modulator and a 10" billet 3k stall converter. Shifted nice and firm and never gave me any issues with the stock converter in it. My spare case had an L servo and an E apply lever that I thought about using. Seems to be everyones going with a Lincoln drum/extra clutch pack, an R code servo, steel rollerized planetary gears w/ an E4OD gear ratio, adjustable modulator, putting a check ball in the governor and putting a wider band in it. It's going to spend most of its time on the street with some drag racing but I am going to beat on it as well. I want it to hold together and I have no issue spending money on quality parts. Just not sure what direction to go in and maybe a few other things that would be good for it. I'd like to hear it from someone that's been around it. Tips/tricks/things to watch out for. A couple of things to look at, wide Kevlar 2nd gear band, extra clutch discs in the forward and reverse/high clutch. There are different ratio 2nd apply levers which are used to increase/decrease the load applied to the band. Governors, there are lots of different governors for the C6 and different weights and springs also. See if you can find a parts list for a 1967 Shelby GT500, they had a 428 PI short block with a 427 medium riser top end (dual 600 cfm Holleys). That was an engine with a lot of torque low down even with the PI cam. The other thing would be to look into any diesel application for clutch packs and band as they are low end torque engines also. 1966-68 Lincoln 462 as it was the old MEL block (case won't fit as it is an FE bolt pattern) but they were torquey engines too, the 1958 430 was 375 hp @ 4800 rpm and 490 ft-lbs torque @ 3100 rpm. The 462 was 340 hp net and 485 ft-lbs. They used a special large case Cruise-O-Matic with an spacer between the back of the case and the extension housing, later ones had a special case with the band servos cast into it.

Oh come on Gary, you know Amazon only sells the best Chinese junk.

I know about belt drone, one of the sources is the AC compressor as it is a cyclic load. I have watched the belts on the old 2 cyl York or Tecumseh ones actually look like they are trying to come off (if you want a really weird belt vibration, Chrysler V2 compressors are horrid due to the 90° - 270° rather than every 180°. Even the multi-cylinder ones like a Chrysler C171 or Ford FS6 can have a harmonic belt hum. My original T2K CAR would vibrate the AC belt into the motor mount reinforcement peculiar to the turbocharged engines. My older stuff with the 429 engines and York/Tecumseh compressors had a harmonic balancer weight built into the pulley on the cars, my 390 truck engine didn't have it though. 3600 RPM, could part of it be header resonance? FWIW, Matt's 1965 Corsa, with headers was real bad at 4500 rpm which due to the gearing and tire size was right at 65 mph. On the power point, if you do not leave the illuminated USB charger in it that shouldn't be a problem, if it is then change it to an accessory powered source. The Flexes have a bunch of them, many of which the key has to be in accessory or run for them to be live, same with the factory 110V AC outlet.

What transmission, C6? I have built a few, C4, FMX, E4OD, AOD, C6 and even a 2 speed Ford-O-Matic.

It is a hot idle compensator, it adds extra air to the intake under high heat conditions, very common on carbureted engines. On Carter and Autolite carbs it was built in. AFB it was in the secondary area above the venturiis, Autolite it was on the air horn on the 4100, back portion of the air filter circle on the 2100 and in the secondary area air horn for the 4300. The 4300D, I don't remember where it was. Apparently the MH builder either added it or it may have been standard on the cutaway E350 builds.

Gary, a lot of items like that have to do with the build date of the vehicle and the lead time on components like wiring harnesses. A truck built in Dearborn in Aug 1985 might have the 1986 style harnesses while one built in Norfolk could easily have the older harnesses. I had a 1964 Falcon that had a lot of Mustang PNs, 289 heads on a 260 etc. it was built July 27th 1964.

3/32" thick is what I have now (it's actually 2mm) as I made them from parts of the old 1986 burgundy dash. If you have a piece of the hide from a wild Nauga, that would work as it can be attached with plyobond (sticky yellow stuff).

The widest is at the top 8", height is 3 1/2" the only issue might be attaching it, there are 5 #6-32 X 3/4" flat head Phillips screws that are covered by the tape. The panels are 3/32" thick and there is a 3/32" gap between them. I countersunk the screws so they are flush with the panel front panel.

I wasn't able to find a sheet of black Vinyl at Ace Hardware here in Exmore and don't really feel like buying 30 assorted colors to get one piece. I have some Scotch 2" wide fairly heavy black tape. Unfortunately the panel is close to 3 1/2" top to bottom so I had to overlap it. It was to get an idea of the final appearance. Panel assembled: Panel in the center stack to be installed in the car:

Jim, for future reference, pictures of the good lighter socket and the bad one. A parts store power point is usually just the inner and outer shells with a plastic insulated center contact and no bimetal fingers. First the bad one: And the good one:

Ok, now I am almost finished. I ended up using another piece of the flat section from the 1986 dash. The reason is attaching it and making the mounting for the front "invisible" is easier. I will use some small (6-32 probably) flat head Phillips or Torx screws that I can countersink, jam nut on the back and once they are in I can cover the front with a piece of Vinyl or similar in black, preferably a semi gloss so it won't be bright in the sun. On the back side on the assembly I will use nuts, flat washers and lock washers. The only piece that will require removal of the front is the hazard switch, the dimmer and rear window defroster switches come out from the back and the power point socket comes out one piece in each direction. If you look in the power point socket, it was a lighter socket, with bad bi-metal springs for the lighter element. Since the springs were extremely rusty and one broke when I touched it, I removed them so it can't be used as a lighter socket. Cleaned the brass center contact and the inside of the socket and it works perfectly.

Gary, mine works fine, I will bet that took the lever off it (a definite nono according to the FSM) and then reinstalled it. The new valves came with a retainer that was used to hold the valve innards in the proper position before attaching the lever. When I rebuilt my rear springs and changed the axle, I took the bracket off the studs on the Sterling cover and swung it and the linkage on the valve up out of the way. After the axle was in, I reattached the bracket.

Ok, Jim, your link goes to a pretty good reference and it says 90/10 is what they use.

Jim, copper was tossed out as a possibility, I believe after spending 30+ years in a laboratory (one 4 year stint 1966-1970 and 30 years starting Jan 1982) I know the difference between copper and CUNI alloys. Now begs the question, is it 90/10, 70/30 or something else? If I need to do any brake lines in the future I may look into that, right now everything including the konvertible has solid, non-rusted lines.

Jim, he has a 1984, so will have the Dana 60 which uses the integral hub and drum. On Copper for brake lines, not a good idea, it gets brittle with age and if it is soft enough to bend, it is soft enough to expand un der the high pressures used.

Happy thanksgiving to my Bullnose "family".

I did them that way before I bought the correct tool. I would preassemble several using some loctite on the portion of the bolt that went into the nutsert. After it sat up I would put a little grease on the exposed threads so I could hold the bolt head and tighten the nut against the washer to compress the insert. Once it was seated I backed out the bolt, nut and washer.

Look at the junction of the left side rail and the crossmember in front of the rear fuel tank. It is a low area and collects water and dirt I lost my rear brakes towing our 5th wheel to Gloucester County VA, this meant no brake controller either. Try to find brake fittings and lines in the boonies on a weekend.

I can already do that on Darth and Gary will be able to once he gets the EFI system up and running. It's called Binary Editor and is designed to reflash the EEC-V systems.

Gary, I didn't see the second part of your message until today. I went in and read up on it and a lot of good information in there and I will attempt an adjustment soon. I do have a question though, on page 17-20-13 of the AOD transmission section, the photo # D4802-1A shows a retention spring for the 4.9 and 5.0L EFI engine. Is that still available? This could be my issue as on mine there isn't one there. I believe from the AODs I have rebuilt and worked on, that the spring was more for the throttle rod used on carbureted engines as the weight of the rod needed to be taken off the throttle valve. If you are positive you have verified the top isn't moving, I would go underneath and establish the "at rest" position of the TV lever (it will point up on yours as it pulls rather than pushes). Once that is done drive it until it starts the late shifts and without "resetting" it drive home and measure again. If the cable has changed setting at the bottom, see if there is slack up top, if not, try pulling back on the TV lever until you feel something change. If you can't feel a change, check up top for something in the throttle plate linkage, including a loose lever on the throttle shaft or a binding or bent piece. If you can find no changes externally, then the problem is inside the transmission, probably something broken or sticking in the TV system.

Thanks Dane and Semper Fi from a Motor T Chief.

Another item to consider, the 1985-86 EFI 302 heads are some of the worst heads Ford ever made for those engines. Other item, a good low mileage later model engine, in 1994 Ford went to a roller cam on the 5.0l/302 engine. The Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0L engines have either the GT40 or GT40P heads and are greatly improved, better rear seal, the roller cam etc. You would need to do two major changes, the timing cover and water pump are totally different on all the serpentine belt models (reverse rotation pump) and the Explorer engines are DIS (coil packs), but there is a synchronizer where the distributor goes and you can use your distributor. Firing order changed with the roller cam which will only effect your plug wires as the pre 1994 302s are all bank fired injection (two groups of four).