85lebaront2

The 1990 pump I put on Darth from the parts truck has metric fittings.

Gary, whenever it is best for you and the people you are working with. We can/will adjust to the outage.

That and the old TVs needed tweaking fairly frequently. I can remember my dad getting up early or staying up so he could adjust the horizontal and vertical size and linearity. Some of the adjustments required moving the yoke coils to eliminate a bow in the top and bottom of the screen.

Gary, the test pattern was the first thing that caught my eye. You do realize it had a definite purpose don't you?

Sounds good sir!

Here are some more door pictures, with the speaker installed, close up of the speaker and an overall picture with the panel installed.

You aren't kidding that Mod Motors lack low end torque. My son has 2002 Excursion V10 4WD. It has 3.73 gears, but between the tires and axle ratio it ends up a bit better geared (in theory) for towing than Darth with 3.55 gears and 215/85R16 tyres. Towing his 1986 F150 on a borrowed trailer over the Blue Ridge mountains on US 17 he was clear down into 2nd gear in the 4R100. Towing a contractors heavy duty trailer, loaded with a pair of roll up garage doors, 3 operators, a steel walk-in door plus having the bed loaded, Darth came out of 4th in the E4OD going up hill in the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel (much steeper grade) and settled at 54 mph and 2200 rpm in lockup, unlocked it was 2700 rpm. or about where the C6 ran at 55-60. This is with a well worn 460 and maybe 8:1 compression due to EFI heads on a carbureted short block.

Spray on adhesive as it seems that was what the original was attached with.

Definitely better than 35 year old tar paper. This would have to be peeled off (more likely cut off), but at least is a readily available replacement.

I made a mount for the right front speaker then took a big heavy duty trash bag and made a pair of water shields for the doors, Here is the right side, everything is done on the water shield except cutting the speaker opening and remounting it.

Thanks guys, it is definitely a pain working on this stuff. You can see one of my reinforcements in the courtesy light opening. There is another from the front top of the rear portion that runs along under the inner portion of the pad and one in the front as the tops were warped and in the front part of the rear portion the attachment location inside the lock and mirror switch plate was broken and warped pretty badly. There is a screw behind the light, another through the opening in the tube above and behind it, one in the front switch opening and one in the front of the pad inside the body of the armrest. and two (one on each end) of the pull strap. All except the one in the tube are concealed by either snap in covers or other components. The switch plates are attached with screws through the countersunk holes in the armrest body. The entire cardboard panel has push-in clips around three sides, back, bottom and front.

Got a bit more done, got the switch for the power seat finally working correctly and got some of the trimming and fitting done on the wiring underneath the carpet and passenger seat (6 channel amplifier). Finally got the door panels done, both armrests were cracked, something about 30+ year old cheap plastic). Here is the left panel:

So, apparently on a 5.0 you can have either? Ok, then I have a conundrum for you. I have my best friend's 2003 E250 with a 5.4L engine, it has a 4R70 or 4R75W automatic in it (which was rebuilt/replaced 4 times while my brother's business owned it. Engine has never been further into than a water pump and thermostat with over 600K on it. According the Baumann it should have an E4OD or 4R100. Bronco 302s came with E4OD and 4WD, that was where I found an EEC-IV for MAF/SEFI and E4OD before I went with the EEC-V. Part of the confusion comes from Ford changing the transmission naming conventions. For years they simply used names, like Ford-O-Matic, Cruise-O-Matic, Turbo Drive (Lincolns). Then in 1964 the new light weight 3 speed was designated C4, this was apparently based on the Ford PN system which caused almost all the parts for it to start C4xx, same with the C6 in 1966. Now is where it starts getting murky, the C3 is a very light duty European origin transmission and the C5 is a modification of the C4. In 1980 Ford introduced the AOD for Automatic Over Drive, when it was updated to be computer controlled it became the AOD-E or AODE for AOD Electronic. In 1988 when the big overdrive unit was released it was designated E4OD for Electronic 4 speed Over Drive. Ford and GM have both rationalized their transmission/transaxle IDs, both used a number, letter, number sequence. 4R100 = 4 speed, rear wheel drive, 100 Mkg input torque, 10R100, 10 speed etc (GM calls the same unit a 10L100 for 10 speed longitudinal etc.) The AODE evolved into the 4R70 and later 4R75W (W stands for wide ratio). In selecting a transmission for the Flathead, any Big (240/300) six or Windsor block pattern (watch out for the early 5 bolt C4 case) will work. Since the AOD was only used one or two years behind the 300, one of them is a rare beast. 351s got them in cars in the 80s and those will have beefier internals. The 4R7x ones would be my choice but keep in mind the Flathead has more low end torque than a 302.

Very nice mounts, hopefully will allow the motion needed for vibration, but definitely shouldn't shear. I also like the single through bolt and the fact that they do not go under the pan rail. Basic design looks like some older Chrysler designs or bigger GM cars, the ones with large torquey engines, Buick, Olds & Pontiac. If I didn't have a factory 460 I would definitely look into those.

Without seeing full details of the Clifford kit it is hard to say where the PCV and brake booster should go. Both need a good sized port directly into manifold vacuum. Are there adapter plates under the carbs? If so, maybe drill and tap for a 3/8" nipple in each one and brake to one PCV the other.

I'm back into reading about transmissions. I'm liking the idea of an electronic auto (with OD) that I can operate with a stand alone tuner. I don't want to get into custom making parts if I don't have to, but the following kit is available for my flathead: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flathead-V8-to-Ford-C4-Transmission-Basic-Adapter-Kit,11051.html So...it says for adapting to Ford C4, C6, and AOD. If it fits those three, wouldn't it also work for later electronic versions, at least up to 1996? The E40D was from 1989-1996? I see there is also an AOD-E, and the 4R70W? Should I be looking for a truck transmission, or a car transmission? Any advice, good or bad? Unless you are making some serious power a 4R70/75W will work nicely. It comes in a Windsor bolt pattern like a C4 and is reasonably compact. The E4OD is a beast, bigger than a C6 and heavy. Any of the electronic ones can be operated with an aftermarket controller.

Ok, yesterday after some rearranging of the power seat wiring and securing the end of the moving portion to the floor, I unpacked and laid the carpet in. There are no holes pre-cut into it, but the molded in portions that go over the front seat crossmember provide a solid reference along with the longitudinal reinforcement "spine".

I ran into a similar issue on my 1977 F150, used AutoZone's brake shoes on the rear and they burned up in one trip with the camper. This right after asbestos linings were banned.

If you still have the feedback carburetor it will not have the correct mixture with the system not connected. The EEC-IV uses RPM, manifold vacuum, O2 sensor, coolant temperature, throttle position and EGR position to arrive at the proper mixture and timing and also controls the idle speed. Disabling part of it puts it into limp mode, where it will get you there, not efficiently though. If the EEC is connected, the timing connector by the distributor needs to be unplugged to check the basic timing otherwise the computer will keep moving it on you.

Seems like it did, however I brazed the pinhole in the left front floor and the no longer needed one under the seat before coating things. Here are the finished floor area sections:

Gee, what did I say, been there, done that an my bosses 1987 F150, only it was all the way on the back end. The 240/300 valve cover gaskets are a pain due to the length of the engine. I used to hake good luck with Fel-Pro cork/rubber combination gaskets.

Sounds like you need a can of compression. Had a friend's Corvair years ago, had a plume coming out of the breather tube, put my thumb on it and the dipstick lifted up and oil started coming out. Worst I ever saw was a Mercedes-Benz 220D that one of the salesmen had the lube rack boy help him plug the inside the valve cover oil separator tube. The gasket on these engines is a U shaped cross section that the cast aluminum valve cover goes into. The pressure built up so high it actually bowed the valve cover and blew the gasket off on the manifold (straight) side, 7 of the 9 quarts of nice black Diesel lube oil went everywhere, including out onto the fenders and windshield.

Doing some more interior work. First, I asked my body shop owner friend about something to seal the floor as it is impossible to keep water completely out of a convertible. He and I agreed on a fully hardening bed liner spray can. Once I have verified all the little holes are closed (unused screw holes and a few pinholes) and vacuumed all the little pieces and dirt up I will spray it, once it cures I have the new carpet ready to go in. Other item I am working on is the door panels, they are cardboard and the armrests and pull straps are attached to them, and screwed to the doors with sheet metal screws. I am using M6X1.0 nutserts on the straps as that is the only thing to pull the doors shut with. The plastic "chrome" and woodgrain backings were worn and cracked so I separated the pieces, painted the "chrome" part and reassembled them. Here is the right door panel with the repaired piece and strap. The inner pair of screws are the ones that will go into the nutserts.

Could the gasket have gotten folded?

Look at your head markings (if any) Chinesium counterfeits won't have any. Grade 5 = 3 slashes, Grade 8 = 6 slashes. Metric will have a rating like 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 higher being stronger. Lubricant used can also cause bolts to break.