85lebaront2

Darth always got a pretty solid 10 except pulling the 10K 5th wheel, then he would drop to 8. That was C6 and 3.55 rear, Worst was 7.5 towing 65 mph into a 35 mph headwind try to keep up with a German woman (post WWII bride of an Army Air Force GI) in a motorhome. With the EFI and E4OD, even with low compression he got 12.5 going from Exmore VA to Falling Waters WV running 70-75 on the interstates in MD. I am hoping the new engine will pull 14.

Your O2 sensor should be on the rear of the right exhaust manifold, one wire style. Be careful removing it, they love to strip the manifold.

When you find a solution, please let me know. Darth destroyed the right side not long after I bought him on a run to Centre Hall PA towing our 30 ft 5th wheel from Newport News VA.

I am going to reply directly to this one. We went through this with my son's 1986 F150 4WD, 302 EFI and AOD. He had idle issues and chattering EGR solenoids. The 1985/86 truck EFI system is different from the later ones in the idle setting procedure. The TPS has no adjustment other than the idle stop screw and is set to a voltage reading. First and very important, to check the "sweep" on a potentiometer correctly you need an analog meter as digital ones do not continuously update and you are looking for a smooth change. Second, idle on these is set to a voltage reading, 1.0 +/- 0.1 if I remember correctly. This can be done (and should be) engine off, key on. These systems do run the idle up on cold start, but should drop back shortly after starting. One of the reasons for setting the throttle (not idle speed) by voltage is the way the system works, the EGR comes in based on TPS voltage at a very low change so if the voltage is too high you get chattering EGR solenoids and a surging idle. The wiring on these first generation EFI systems can be a problem, I have seen harnesses with bare wires, crumbling insulation and really poor grounds. Good luck with it.

The one on Darth is partially integrated into the rear bumper. The actual receiver is welded into the drop down portion in the center (makes it a bear to remove). I can see what I have in pictures and take some tomorrow if needed. Hitch is a V5 rated beast. Hope these help.

Jim has my old air cleaner, he needed a working trap door vacuum motor for his truck.

There are aftermarket custom columns, hot rodders use them in custom builds. Problem is they are essentially a GM column, meaning nothing as far as keys, wiring etc. matches Ford parts.

Great! One thing I have read from people who have to deal with these tests, a fresh oil change can also help along with making sure the PCV system is in good order.

Gary, I would have to look at my information. Owner's manual doesn't say anything about it. Maybe one of the emission ones might.

Looks pretty good as far as all of them are together. One thing I didn't see, and it may be in the text pages, is the auxiliary air inlet for the 460 air cleaner.

Ford got in trouble over the 400 engines in 1972 due to not being able to meet the emission standards and still have it run decently, if you enriched the idle mixture to where it ran well, it failed emission testing. Hopefully you can hit a "sweet spot" where it runs well and passes emissions, the 351M may respond better than the 400 since it is smaller.

The accelerator pump adjustment on the older Autolite 2100/4100 carbs was done by moving the accelerator pump rod up or down on the lever on the throttle shaft. Further out = faster shot, inner = slower shot, total volume is possibly larger on the outer holes, but only if the lever on the pump cover doesn't either bottom out or fail to move the diaphragm immediately. None of this should have any effect on the idle mixture, that being said, one of the issues with these carbs and Holley 2300/4150/4160 carbs is power valve failures, the diaphragm on the power valve can leak or actually fail, resulting in a rich idle mixture. On most Holley carbs, it will be so rich as to be beyond adjustment range, the smaller passages on the Autolite/Motorcraft carbs will still allow a rich mixture but not as bad. My experience with the 351M/400 engines has been that in stock form, the mixture can barely be gotten rich enough to even idle well, if it is rich, I would expect either a plugged air bleed, bad power valve or a minor flooding condition (float or needle and seat issue).

Gary, I have a bunch of the later Emissions manuals, and... they are loose leaf design! From 1995 there are two, OBD-I and OBD-II.

Looks good! I have a question, where did you find the DeeZee lited running board information? Now all I need is a list of replacement parts for mine. Darth has the crew cab length running boards and bed side dually boards neither of which are still manufactured. DeeZee was helpful in getting me something I could use to replace the rusted supports and I replaced all the original steel hardware with CRES from Fastenal in Hampton VA. Mine are the extruded aluminum ones depicted in the instructions and were originally lited. The end caps were in rough shape, so at least two are reproductions made from some stuff we had in the lab at NNS. Two best were used as patterns as there are two styles and they are mirror images.

Christopher, just because the truck was sold in Oregon, does not guarantee it is not a CA spec or 50 state truck. Many years ago, I believe in 1980 or 81, my late mother-in-law and her brother were visiting us here in VA, on the way back to Washington state, they went back through Texas (her brother's home state) and bought her a new Chevy Citation, specifically to avoid a CA spec car. I had called a good friend at the local Chevy dealership and found that except for high altitude areas, all West coast cars were CA spec, definitely Oregon so they couldn't be bought and carried into CA to avoid the CA emission packages. Check your emission label.

Gary, other than the 1996 stuff, you can do what ever you want, just send the 1996 and Kelsey-Hayes part back when you are done.

Gary, I agree that 1981 CA spec 351M would have a feedback carb, now the question comes which one? A relatively standard 2150 or a 7200 VV? 2150 could have a bad power valve, 7200, good luck, those need a bunch of specialized tools to set up properly. Check that the EVAP system is working correctly and the canister isn't saturated, PCV in good order. Sometimes doing an oil and filter change can bring it back into spec. All this makes me glad I don't have to deal with this.

No, top is not installed yet, the pump and cylinders work though and no leaks (yet).

it is the hydraulic pump for the top, just behind the seat belt mount.

Ok, but the picture that was part of the original post didn't show up, it is above with the bad link to the video.

I found them and finished assembling the center stack. Here is a short video of the RBB radio head unit running the 4 disc CD changer through the Infinity 6 channel amp. I also installed and tested this today:

I should have them, I took them when I was working on the updated stack layout and thought I had them in with the rest of the parts from that portion. Screw is a #6 sheet metal with an oval head and conical washer, color is black. I have the screws and thought the clip nuts were with them.

That is a sign that says "Grumpy's Garage" that was a present from my wife. She didn't realize that Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins was a Chevy drag racer. I have another that says "Bill's Playpen" in wood. The clip nuts are the kind a sheet metal screw goes into and they clip over the plastic portion to allow the trim panel to be screwed on after it snaps in place.

Here is a picture of the (mostly) complete interior. I can't find the clip nuts for the center trim and need to open the cluster to replace the high beam indicator bulb.

My truck was named Darth Vader by my son and a group of his friends as the original grille guard, Lund visor and predominately black paint resembled Darth Vader (they were 16-17 at the time). He has remained Darth ever since.