85lebaront2

That's intriguing. I just looked for any kind of fan in the forward passenger area of the engine bay. Is that what you meant? I found naught but the alternator fan which could conceivably cool the fuel rail. So that would make it a 60 psi system. I'm trying to locate the man who installed the tank and pump to see if he knows about the 35/60 psi angle. I did find the emissions sticker but don't see any psi reference on it (pic #1). What else I spotted there is air injection. What a monstrosity. I will defeat it, to save the exhaust ports/valves and manifold from heat damage. I can't see how that would make the motor run rich, whether or not air injection is working. It does have a vacuum controlled valve on it, see pic #2, which presumably vents the pump's output to atmosphere on high vacuum as in idle. Pics 3 and 4 are the air pump itself and its air intake filter (probably dirty as sin by now). I know the 1987 300s had the cooling fan, it feeds a duct that directs air over the injectors, the fan mounted near the battery with a flexible hose connecting it to the duct. There would be a temperature switch on the fuel rail to control it. It was hot wired and ran after shutting the engine off. The spec for fuel pressure is KOEO 50-60 psi, KOER 45-60 psi

Here is probably what everything looked like: In the middle you can see where two of the lines have pieces repaired. This is where the lines passed over the heat riser passage and were burned by the heat. I lifted them up into a clip on the center inboard valve cover bolt. You should have a label like this: It is on the radiator panel on pickups and probably the underside of the hood on E-series. Check the "incomplete vehicle" label on the door post for the exact year of the chassis as it can be 1 - 2 years older than a motorhome.

I was hoping AllData had some good diagrams or pictures of the EFI fuel rail etc. Does that truck have the small cooling blower in the right front of the engine compartment? If it does then that is the earlier system, and runs around 35 psi fuel pressure. Ford changed to a higher pressure system on the 4.9L to eliminate vapor lock under hot soak conditions, these engines run around 60 psi fuel pressure. If the wrong pressure regulator was used, ie, one for 60 psi on a system designed for 35 psi, it will run rich enough the O2 sensor can't compensate for it. If the emission label is still on the underside of the hood, it may show the fuel pressure spec.

And I have the Edelbrock manual on tuning the carbs. Any thoughts, y'all? Also, I went through my spare sockets and ended up with full sets of 1/4" & 3/8" drive in both SAE and metric. And since I already had the 1/2" drive SAE sockets in, I think all I'm missing are some of the metric sockets used on the suspension, like 15 and 17 MM. So I need to do some research to see what is used there. But, I'd be thrilled if some of you know off the top of your head. Gee, if the EFI system was up you probably wouldn't need anything except maybe a spare TFI module. The Carter stuff looks about right, bowl gasket(s) definitely. Did you forget the step ladder so you can comfortably reach the carb? As far as suspension, I can't help you there, my rear is about the same, but front is completely different.

Orange wire is the O2 sensor ground. It should have a pretty good sized lug on the end of it and I believe went on the rear right (passenger side) intake manifold bolt (will have a stud on the top for it).

Gary, a tidbit of information. Chrysler has a newer Fluid out, ATF+4 that they are recommending for all their automatics in place of Dexron. It has a friction modifier like the old Ford Type F did. It might do well in any transmission where Dexron was specified.

It is a Motorcraft (formerly Autolite or FoMoCo) 2100 series carburetor. The critical information for parts and specifications is on that tag. Be glad it is still there.

I assume you are referring to the piece on the bottom side of the top of the carb? It is a "pull over" enrichment system, at high flow rates it adds fuel to the air stream. As for soaking it, Varsol or kerosene won't harm anything. The commercial cleaners I used to use would attack the nylon fast idle lever and the slide seal for the choke rod where it passes up through the top of the carb if they were left in it too long.

In the order asked: (1) Spacer is a phenolic insulating block. It should come off if you carefully coax it (careful, it will crack easily) (2) It depends on what you are soaking it in. Many commercial carburetor cleaners can cause a mild reaction between the aluminum, brass and steel parts of the carburetor. If you are just soaking it in a solvent (kerosene, Varsol) it generally won't hurt anything to leave it soaking overnight. That may also loosen up the spacer.

I agree with Gary, confirm 12V at the coil feed. These systems have a pressure switch for cycling the compressor clutch and low Freon levels will keep it open. The York and Tecumseh two cyl. ones use a 5/8-11 bolt to push the clutch off the shaft. If yours has the brush feed for a rotating coil, the entire assembly comes off at that point. Fixed coils are held on with 4 bolts after the rotating assembly is removed. The FS6 introduced in 1985 is a bit different. The clutch plate is held on by a small bolt, the pulley is held on the compressor snout with a big snap ring. It has a beveled cross section that requires the bevel to be away from the bearing. The actual coil on these is pressed on the front head of the compressor. It can be removed by carefully prying between the compressor front head and the back of the coil. I reinstall them with a 2X4 with a hole big enough for the compressor snout to fit through so I can seat it with a large hammer.

I know someone on here who has a DS-II tester I sent him....

Yes, your reply is more accurate than mine. It is the permanent deformation that is the issue that makes TTY bolts useful only one time. Since I was tagged in this last night just before I shut everything down for the night, I will insert my $.02. Torque to yield is a concept that stared appearing in the 80s, one excellent example is the head bolts and main cap bolts used in Chrysler's 2.2 and 2.5L engines. In these the specification calls for a setting torque (I will use 35 ft-lbs) then an angle of rotation, usually 90°. The setting torque is what the engineers decided is the value needed to clamp everything in place, the 90° spec is arrived at based on the number of threads per inch, or on Metric fasteners the thread pitch in millimeters. We had, at work a device that when it was scrapped, I tried to figure out a way it could be scrapped to a business I had a good relationship with. It was called a Raymond Bolt Master and it used an ultrasonic transducer to measure bolt stretch as you tightened the bolt. It was an amazing instrument and the basic system was reasonably portable. The company we bought it through sent a representative in to train us on it. While he was doing this, the subject of head bolt/gasket failure on the GM 5.7L Diesels came up, he owned one and had stuck the transducer on the outboard head bolt between cylinders 5 and 7 (they fire one after the other). Oldsmobile used 10 1/2-13 head bolts, like Ford does on some engines, 351W for one. He said the resulting stress on that bolt, and probably the inner one, pushed and sometimes exceeded the yield strength of the bolts. I had some used ones (GM said use only new on reassembly) and went by the Olds dealer and picked one new one. They were extremely strong, equivalent to FF-S-86 socket head cap screws. Ford 3.8L V6 engines have a special procedure for the non-reusable head bolts, they are torqued and relaxed a couple of times if I remember correctly, then taken up again and turned 90° to finish the job, these are also TTY bolts Danger of TTY, we had an in house manufactured accumulator, that had removable ends and they were held on with a ring of B7 studs. Engineer who had been my supervisor and I were brainstorming why we couldn't keep the O-rings that sealed the ends from blowing out at the pressure needed for a test. I mentioned "what is the load on the ends at XXXX pressure". Jeff Krohto, the engineer (a real good ME) got the light bulb over his head, looked at me and said "Bingo" did a quick calculation, called the technician assembling the accumulator and asked if he had torqued the ends yet, when he was told no, he gave him a much lower torque and there were no more problems after that. Normal, non bolt stretch torque is an interesting subject, it is very sensitive to the lubricant used and is generally arrived at by testing to reach around 80% of yield strength of the fastener. As for stretch measurements, ARP rod bolts for my turbocharged 2.2L Chrysler are tightened to a stretch measurement using a box wrench and a micrometer. When I was assembling it in 2004 my son and a friend of his were watching. When I was tightening the rod bolts his friend asked why I was doing it that way, Matt explained the process and told him, that was one of the reasons race engines cost so much. Sorry for the long involved post, hopefully it will help understand the usage of these type fasteners.

The hissing noise is the fuel going through the pressure regulator and returning to the tank.

Jim, I actually think his is more accessible than my 3.8L was. It has to come out from below due to the 3.8L being a 90° block and the radiator has to come out first.

As long as the engine's running there is a steady bleed off at the return elbow. If you leave the key on with the engine not running that would be when you have a problem. If it is a concern, use a NO oil pressure switch (Chrysler had one for the choke on the carbureted 1.7 and 2.2L engines) to feed the FSS, it will also be a safety shutdown if you lose oil pressure. Use the "I" terminal on a Ford starter relay to bypass it when cranking so you will have fuel immediately.

Are your in-tank pumps or pump if it is a single tank good? Have you checked/changed the filter in the tank selector/reservoir?

Yes it does, but I can't attach files to an email through the system. I can send you what I found, but still haven't found the style pump for the electric shut-off.

The information I found yesterday looking for any sort of manual all showed pumps without the solenoid so they would have a mechanical shutoff. Gary says we can't email through the site now, but I will give it a try and if it works will send you what I found. Maybe you can come up with a manual shutoff for one. All my Roosamaster experience was one Ford 6.9L and one 7.3L and a number of GM 5.7L with a 6.2L turbo and a 6.2 and 6.5L non-turbo models.

As far as working, it's a Roosamaster pump, same as GM used on their 5.7, 6.2 and 6.5L Diesels and the solenoid pulls in to allow the pump to deliver fuel. Pushing the rod in would be the "run" position from that illustration. I used to have a Roosamaster service manual, but have no idea if it survived emptying my house in Newport News VA.

Back in the 70s Ford built a number of "universal" accessory brackets for the Windsor blocks (302/351W) those that go on the heads were reversible to allow for the difference in block height. They went short end up (toward the valve cover) on a 302 and short end down for a 351W. This allowed for most installations to use the same belts and pulleys.

Your test connector should be right behind the battery, near the 4 solenoid valves and MAP sensor.

You do need it to be purged otherwise it will eventually fill up with gas fumes and you will be right back to the fume issue. I have told people for years on emission equipment. PCV system is highly beneficial, EVAP is essentially neutral as far as running goes.

If you look in the master cylinder reservoir, the large chamber is for the front brakes and the smaller one is rear. The one that is dry or nearly dry will tell you which end to look at. One other item, at the back, the crossmember behind the axle is where the hard line comes over to the rear axle hose. In the corner where that crossmember joins the side of the frame, there is a low area that collects dirt and water, the brake line lays right in that low area. If the hose looks good and it is the rear brake circuit, look for brake fluid in that corner. I lost the rear on Darth, which also killed my trailer brake controller due to the line rusting through.

Ok, the coolant lines are mainly for heat for anti icing in cool damp conditions (35-38°F). If there is enough meat in that area of the throttle body maybe a screw in fitting will work. If not, the basic TB assembly was used through 1996 on the 302 and 1997 on the 351. Knock sensor PN is: E3AZ-12A699-A but it shows as discontinued. In 1987 it was moved to the back, top of the block behind the intake manifold. Maybe the later, 1987-1995 would work. You might try Green Sales Company, I couldn't even find one on eBay.

Do you really want RTV on the threads of the bolt though. I dont know of anyone but shade tree still using the outdated RTV for sealing bolts. I like using the ARP thread sealer which should in theory prevent galling of the stainless steel bolts as well as prevent corrosion. I am primarily recommending it on the bolt shanks so they will not corrode to the aluminum Mr. expert. I spent 30 years working in a DOD contractor's laboratory and one thing I did was test fasteners. I assume your ARP thread sealer will prevent seepage past gaskets, water intrusion from high humidity as the engine cools down and moisture laden air creeps in under the head of the bolt?