85lebaront2

Before you go to the work of making a plate etc. Check against the 90 perches and see if they seem different, the missing bolts may have allowed the ones on Big Blue to sag a little, maybe even have a significant bend in them.

I will have to try that when I lose the Post and Preview buttons.

They were glued in, I have repaired power seat motors, just make sure which one is which or it will run backwards. I used JB Weld, and put a fairly thin layer on the magnets after cleaning everything, set them in place and put the case back together with no innards to keep things aligned as JB Weld will creep until it is fairly well set. At least you got lucky on that one, I pulled the heater casing on the Chevstang I am fixing for my favorite junkyard/wrecker service and found it had been wet, both bushings were frozen to the shaft and it is pretty much toast. New one ordered, a nice 4 seasons non-ventilated one like the original. Date on it is Jun 9 1966, car is a 1967.

The reason for sending these is twofold, first to show where Ford played musical locations with the ciecuit protection on the 1987 up wiper motor and second to show how a single plug motor can be used to replace a dual plug one. The circuits are the same, Ford just combined the 2 three pin plugs, one for the motor and one for the park into a single six pin plug that sits on the gearbox portion of the motor.

Jim, no I do not, I discovered it while looking at them on-line. Motorcraft shows it coming with the motor. The wiper harness (unfortunately already on it's way to Podunk) from the F450 could be used on yours to convert to the later motor. I can send Gary the pdf so he can convert and post it for you. I would do a quick voltage check at the motor plug and make sure you are getting power under load (wipers on). If not, then depending on what your truck has, it could be a switch or delay module problem.

If the shaft is staying in the gearbox, then the brushes should stay in place. Unfortunately, it may be toast though.

Wiring looks good, you have a low speed feed and a high speed feed and ground.

Jim. it looks like the circuit breaker is part of the switch from the diagram I have. I have the 1990 owner's manual I can go look at if that will help.

Motor is a permanent magnet unit with the brushes in the gearbox end, open the gearbox by unclipping the switch cover and lifting it off. With it off, see if the inside looks corroded, if not, try gripping the motor shaft and see if it will turn, if you can turn it, try powering it again. If you need to pull the magnet portion off, keep the motor shaft in place so the brushes don't come out. Armature may be rusty and binding on the field magnet.

That should be valid from 1987-93 or so when the motor changed. At that point it became a single plug. Service and rebuilt are the late style with a pigtail for the earlier harness.

Won't post, check your email.

I would grab the switch, and if it has one, the intermittent governor (they are plug and play up through 1991 as long as you have both pieces and a ground) He may want the plugs and a pigtail for the motor.

Ok, I just looked at the 1986 EVTM, specifically the non-electronic tuned radio (what Darth came with). Power plug (C333) yellow/black - Power in run or acc light blue/red - instrument lights light green/yellow - constant 12V feed Speaker plug (C522) orange/light green - left front speaker + pink/light green - left rear speaker + white/light green - right front speaker + pink/light blue - right rear speaker + black/white - all speakers ground If only two speakers were used (Darth had no factory rear) then front and rear on each side were jumpered together at the dash plug. The four speaker setup was for Broncos only. pink/light blue - white/light green and pink/light green - orange/light green.

Shame you had to cut the air and EGR pipes. If no one else wants the manifolds, I can always use a spare set of the later ones. That looks like the oil pan and dipstick you wanted too!

Ok, then the information I had on my tuning software was wrong. I know it does allow for raising the line pressure during shifts to prevent slipping and it is a reverse operation, 0 volts or current = max pressure.

From what I remember from the original Muscle Parts catalog, the later intake would work on the early heads (improved head for 289/302 was to use the 351 head as this was a 1969 catalog) difference was 4 more manifold bolts on the 69-74 heads, anything that covered those would work, but using an early manifold with bolt holes there would result in a massive water leak. A thought, if everything except the extra holes fits, tap and plug the holes.

Gary, thought for you while you are stripping the 90 parts truck. Pull the frame perches for the 460 off, two reasons, this will give you a known good pair for Big Blue if the ones on there are bent from loose/missing bolts and maybe a better setup for Prashant's F150.

I guess up close it doesn't look that great, how are the grille and headlights and are they the chrome trimmed headlights?

Gary, FYI, push start means the starter circuit "pushes" the dwell for a hotter spark cranking, CCD is Computer Controlled Dwell and the EEC controls the dwell. 1987-94 models used push start, 1995-96/7 used CCD. What ever computer you use, you need the correct ICM and wiring as the setup is different.

Damn Gary, the doghouse on that looks in pretty good shape.

Gary, it is an EE6000 from the Tech Garage, it was an ad on Facebook. Here is the email they sent after I ordered it: Hi William, Below you will find instructions on using your EE6000 Borescope as well as the apps you can use for operation. The MOQO is no longer available for Android instead look for "HD SEE" in the play store. Please continue to use MOQO for the Iphone! To summarize we like these FREE Apps... 1. For Android Use = "HD SEE" in the app store. 2. For Iphone Use = "MOQO" in the app store. Operation Instructions: Turn the unit on with one click and open your phones wifi networks. Select the network that is YPC-XXXX and type in the password 12345678 Once the unit is connected to your phones wifi, open the app and your good to go! To turn off click the button twice, and to adjust the light turn the knob/dial on the cable. Sincerely, The Tech Garage PS - Any questions hit us up here.. support@thetechgarage.info

Gary, I picked up a neat little Wi-Fi borescope, it will easily fit through a 14mm spark plug hole and can be viewed with a smart phone. I believe I posted something on FTE in the Tools thread about it. It would give you a good look at the piston head shape and maybe with a coat hanger wire to the top and recess get a rough idea how deep it is.

There is nothing in all the documentation that came with Big Blue? All you need is a manufacturer and PN.

Gary, the pre-1995 E4OD solenoids use snubber diodes in the circuit board they are attached to, post 1994 moved them (starting 1995 MY) to the EEC. You can use early solenoid bodies with late computers but not the reverse. Dan, the EPC on the E4OD is described as a duty cycle solenoid, where the duty cycle of the driver effectively controls the voltage by pulse width.

Short answer, no, has to be built for SEFI, but, the Mustang computers can be re-sequenced and used on a manual transmission. A lot of people have done that and some have used a separate trans controller for the E4OD. EEC-V from a 1996 302 truck might be SEFI.