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Got it bolted down (4 M6X1.0 35mm long, gr 10.9 bolts). In addition to the normal carbide tools, John picked me up a set of boring tools.

As already noted "they don't need to run all the time" is the stock answer to this question. And as also already noted, "but mechanical fans don't either" is the stock reply to that answer. I just can't see electrics being a big (if any) improvement in economy, and the car companies must not either, because as I noted above, for a long time about the only cars with electric fans were the ones with transverse engines where a mechanical fan would be pointed at the right front fender instead of the radiator. If electrics were so great everything would use them. But lately it seems like everything is starting to use them, so maybe there is something there. Bottom line for me on the economy question is that electrics MIGHT be a little better, but if they are it can't be a whole lot. For a good alternator to provide the current needed to run a large fan at high speed the engine power consumption is probably substantially less than the power needed to turn a large 5 or 7 bladed fan. In order for a mechanical fan to move enough air at low rpm it has to have a high attack angle (blade angle in relation to a flat plane), this coupled with the fact that is overdriven by the crank/waterpump pulley ratio means that as the engine rpm increases the fan will actually reach a point at which it will cavitate. This is what creates the load roar. The simple solution to this is a fan clutch, simplest ones being essentially a centrifugal system that as the rpm climbs, the coupling force drops until the fan is coasting. The next style is a thermal one, the higher the air temperature the more solid the connection is, the best (and most expensive) is a combination of the two, where with low air temperature it lets the fan idle but will cut it in if the air coming through gets hot enough. One of the issues with these, on AC equipt vehicles the fan may not move enough air for the condenser to work efficiently. Electric fans can be controlled by modern engine computers allowing the most efficient cooling and AC performance. On FWD vehicles the fan(s) are almost always electric (Honda 600s had a belt) and since many of the engines are used in FWD and RWD vehicles, the functionality is already in the computer.

Gary, on Fords, so far I haven't had one fail, Matt did on his 1986, the one from the alternator, which promptly took out the 2G alternator. Chrysler, had more than a few fail, and on the FWD models all except the hazard flasher are clustered if a fan shape near the bulkhead connector and are a royal PITA to fix, hence the nice PDC in the konvertible.

I had actually drawn up a system for a non-computer controlled two speed electric fan on a truck, problem I ran into is there is only 5 1/2" between the water pump shaft and radiator with a 460 due to it's length. On the electric vs mechanical fan question, a good electric fan, not one of these aftermarket ones, will move a lot of air on high speed regardless of vehicle or engine speed. When you are sitting in heavy traffic on one of our summer days when the heat and humidity race to see which is higher, in my case, engine is at 750 rpm, running the AC, fan clutch comes in and the water pump and fan might be at 900 rpm, and electric at high speed will probably move 2-3 times as much air. On the Chevy tuck I helped a friend with, the 1996 auxiliary cooling fan on it has two control modes, one is AC pressure, the other is engine temperature. The temperature switch closes the relay, the AC pressure switch closes the relay and puts the AC system into recirculation mode to reduce part of the load on the system. I am attaching that if it will help. The controls I had drawn up would run the fan on low whenever the AC compressor is engaged or the engine temperature exceeds 230° F (if I remember that correctly). If you use one of the older idiot light "hot" switches, it should close around 210-220° F for normal engine cooling, high speed can be done with a high pressure switch on the AC system (1994 Taurus used a binary switch, high fan enable then if the pressure was still too high, compressor shut off) this can be installed in place of the existing compressor cut off switch.

A 2000 Crown Victoria electric fan matches our truck radiator size pretty well, if you stick the 3G alternator on and use the Hi-Ram 50 amp relay for high it will work well. I couldn't do it on Darth due to the lack of space. Fan noise, you have never heard what Darth's clutch fan in heavy traffic, summer heat, AC on and towing a 30ft 5th wheel on US 301 East side of DC sounds like, from a stop light up to about 45-50 mph, it sounds like one of NASA Langley's wind tunnels, the full scale one.

This^ they make fuse links that look like fuse blocks instead of wires. Try this information and see if it helps: These are from a Chrysler site hence the odd circuit numbers. I also realize some of them don't jive.

Gary, I know, I miss having 3 different size lathes in the shop at O31, small medium and large, small was an old Craftsman of similar size to this, medium was an ancient , I believe Southwark-Emory with a flat leather drive belt that had to be shifted for speed changes and a big South Bend that I had to have the apron on rebuilt when I was sent over to run that area in 2006. Had a nice Bridgeport mill and an ancient surface grinder along with a floor stand drill press.

From what I was told the crew cab floor (a) uses the tall transmission cover and (b) is higher most of the way over that area.

Bought this last month along with some external and internal tools, still have to move some things around and get it bolted down on one of my nice heavy benches.

You do realize that a 2WD E4OD is only 3" longer than a 2WD C6.

Ray, maybe it's the 4WD that is responsible for the poor handling, my son has had Darth to at least 85 mph on Interstate 264 in Virginia Beach. The trooper who pulled him said it really should be reckless driving due to the speed, but the way he was moving through traffic, signaling every lane change he let him go with a warning. My late wife drove him home from our Boy Scout Camp on a two lane back road and looked down at one point and found she was going 80. The best one was my oldest son, he was selling Electrolux vacuums at the time and had an Escort wagon company car, we both headed out from a campground in Northern Gloucester County VA, he thought he was going to mess with dad, I stayed right with him and could have probably passed him. On my 1958 F100, 110" wheelbase, it was squirrelly as all getout, complete to the "death wobble" until I decided to try increasing the caster by using Pep Boys 1/2 length leaf helper springs on the back of the front springs, huge improvement and raised the front back up a bit from the increased weight of the 312 Y-block over the 223 six.

My Chrysler PDB, from a Dodge Stratus or Chrysler Sebring has a gaggle of 40 amp Maxi Fuses. It isn't fully populated in this picture, the box was apparently used in a number of vehicles as I have two, one from a 1996 Stratus and one from a 2000 Sebring convertible. They are physically the same but the relay strip on the right side has different functions, many are the same though. The interior fuse box (junction box to Chrysler) has a load of smaller fuses, individual headlight low and high beam, left and right for one example. The four large relays are for low and high speed fans, ASD (automatic shut down) which powers the fuel pump, coil and injectors and starter. The stud on top was due to the battery location on the Stratus/Sebring, under the LF fender, forward of the wheel so + and - studs were provided, it is an M10 X 1.5 or slightly bigger than a 3/8" bolt. I have my + battery cable (real short) alternator fusible link and starter main cable on it with the factory red plastic cover.

Gary, FWIW, Darth's floor pan is in 3 sections, front, center and rear, front and rear are the same as a standard cab, the center is the 35" extension for the crew cab and the seat mounts on it are the same as the front mounts. From these you can see (a) the height of the transmission cover, (b) how the crew cab floor is made and © that the back section is essentially a seat section and a standard cab back section. This is how I was able to install rear outboard shoulder belts in Darth, the mounts and holes are there in the rear, just not tapped for the 7/16-20 bolts. I just needed two more standard cab outboard shoulder belt assemblies and the rear corner trim sections. The E4OD cleared everything just fine, here it is with the cover removed.

Gary, the small (micro) relays are rated 20 amps on the NC contacts and 30 amps on the NO contacts, The Bosch cube relays are rated 30 amps on both sets of contacts. If you are only using them to turn things on, then the micro relays will work fine. I have done a ton of research on these for my Chrysler.

Alex, the circle is for a timing probe, used with many engine analyzers. It uses a magnetic pickup on the slot in the balancer and requires you to input the offset, ie how far the slot and window are from TDC. The analyzer uses this and the signal to display the actual timing in degrees either as a digital value or on an analog meter. You are correct in using the pointer against the numbered scale on the balancer. FWIW, I usually put white paint or similar at TDC and the correct setting so I am not trying to read the numbers through the belts and hoses. If you want real fun, older British cars had the marks on the bottom of the engine, usually on the oil pan, which involves lying on the ground to read them and having a helper adjust, same thing on most GM and Chrysler full size vans where the distributor is in the back.

First, number one cylinder on Ford V8 engines is the right (passenger side) front cylinder. Second, are you disconnecting and plugging the vacuum advance? Third, you could have a bad balancer, after 36 years they can fail, the outer ring is bonded to the inner with rubber and it will eventually fail. One note, the scale on the balancer runs from 10° After Top Dead Center to 30° Before Top Dead Center (abbreviated ATDC and BTDC) be sure you are going the correct way from TDC.

Ok, I have a question, did you transplant the entire harness, or just the engine part of the EFI harness? The reason I ask, is there are major changes in the EEC plug between 1986 and 1987. Power and ground were part of that pinouts for the EECs (actually everything I could find including EEC-III and the MCU systems) are here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/efi.html The 1985.5 and 1986 are the only truck systems that used the vacuum and vent control on the EGR and for some reason the MAP sensor was different, but the later ones seem to work ok on them.

I have seen some early 2 wire sensors, signal and ground, right now can't remember what they were on, may have been GM stuff. Your Bronco in the 1986 EVTM shows a 2 wire sensor, DG/P for the signal to pin #29 of the EEC and O to pin #49 as a signal ground. The 4.9L shows the same wiring, but the 5.8L does not use the ground with the feedback carburetor. It does have a ground wire (O) at pin #49 to the engine.

I have had excellent luck with Autozone Duralast new pumps (lifetime warranty). They seem to do quite well and they will honor the warranty with no problems. The latest pump version which came out in 1995 has larger bearings and a larger bolt circle, but still has the smaller inlet.

Yes it does, when you install the new water pump (a) be sure the gaskets are in the correct order and orientation (b) be sure you have the backing plate installed and correctly oriented © use some RTV sealer on that one bolt, I personally like to put a light coating on all the long bolts so you won't get galvanic corrosion between the steel bolt and aluminum cover.

I am unclear on this. Shaun tells me that the HVAC box from a Bullnose bolted directly to a Bricknose cab. So those two firewalls should be the same. Chris McGaugh has been researching the potential of running the improved 134a evaporator core system in his Bronco, and he thought the outer box stayed the same from 87-96. This conflicts slightly with a dash swap thread I read on FTE that said the Bullnose HVAC box didn’t completely align with the Aeronose firewall opening. That thread suggested some small block-off plates would be needed. So my hypothesis is that there may have been a change in 94-96 when the improved evap core for 134a was introduced. It seems odd that Ford would have changed the firewall opening then, but it is possible. Granted, this is all internet anecdotal info and guessing... but it sounds like a brick or bull swap would work equally well or equally poorly. If I keep the Aero interior, I will need to be careful when finding a replacement box as I may need a late 94-96 one. Outer (underhood) box became larger in 1994 with the introduction of R134a, inside had detail changes (side demister grilles) Firewall openings remained the same from 1980-1996/7.

Several issues, (a) the aeronose uses a stub column, actually the same as a lot of later Fords, my 1990 Town Car, my 1994 Taurus and my 1995 Continental all use a virtually identical basic column, the ancillary parts (switches, wheel, shifter or interlock) are what varies. (b) the column on Bullnose and Bricknose trucks is not straight, it angles slightly from left to right to get a reasonably straight line to the steering box. © mounts, Bull and Brick columns are attached to the pedal support bracket and dash frame with a metal bracket and to the floor with a clamped on or slipped on plate which allows the shift lever(s) to go through the floor. Aero models did not have a column shift manual transmission, and use a cable for the automatics (d) electrical, Bull and Brick use an inside the column tube turn signal and hazard switch with a floor mounted dimmer switch, horns on non-speed control models use no relay, hot and horn wires go through brushes to the pad or button, Aero models all have a horn relay in the underhood PDC and use a combination switch on the column for wipers, turn and hazard, horn is still on the wheel. (e) steering shaft, Bull uses a lower rag joint and an upper pot joint, Brick is similar, but the upper joint is different, both have these underhood, Aero uses actual universal joints, one at the box and one inside the cab at the bottom of the stub column, the intermediate shaft is a slip style for the collapsible column requirement. I believe the others depend on the column tube collapsing as the slip joint is inside the column and is factory assembled with plastic shear joints. (f) finally, the column support on the Aeronose is also the left end of the dash support, it is attached to the left inside cowl with 4 M10X1.5 bolts and is a pretty substantial casting, it does not attach to the pedal support or firewall. Pedal support is a much smaller piece that goes just from the booster to the bottom of the cowl. Here is a dash with the column support (the way Ford says to R&R it):

It is simple and no adjustment is required unlike some others (GM and Chrysler).

Semper Fi brother! Welcome to our group of crazies!

Under the plate the DS-II pickup is on there are two spring tabs and a pair of weights, one spring is small the other large. The small spring is active from start all the way up, the large spring comes in at higher rpm. If the pinging was at low to mid rpm, then the small spring possibly needs more tension, but it could be that the large spring is coming into play too late. If you pull the reluctor off and remove the plate, there are two slots in the advance cam with xx numbers for the degrees advance, if it is at the larger value, remove the felt and the snap ring, then with the springs unhooked the advance cam can be pulled up and turned around. Just put the springs back in the same spot in relation to the bottom portion so the advance curve rate won't be changed. It will be better to run a conservative advance with the higher compression initially, static timing procedure if I remember correctly is spelled out in the manual.