85lebaront2

One thing to check on the transmission seal, see how much up and down play you have where the driveshaft enters the transmission. If the bushing is too worn you will never keep a seal in it.

No, just bought it about 6 mo this ago. Odo says 80k but probably 180, interior is in great original shape so I dont think it's more than 180 Ok, in addition to checking the timing chain as Jim suggested, pull the plugs out, see what brand/heat range they are and line them up in order and take pictures of them so those of us who know how can "read them".

Gary, re: ground for second battery, my question is why? Main load if it is engaged for cranking the engine will be to the engine. The later trucks do not rely on a bolted to the frame ground, a simple ground from the negative to the inner fender is what they use, and the headlight grounds are right above the headlights on the radiator support. Charging the aux. battery same thing, ground path is to the engine not the frame. On Darth, when I updated the wiring to 1996 style, I did keep the heavy right side negative cable to frame and block, but only the frame to block now. With the nice 1995 set Jim sent me the battery negative cable goes to the lower starter bolt/stud. Battery negative cable has a GM style ground pigtail to the inner side of the right front fender. I do still have the intake manifold to wiper mount ground.

They are dirty (along with everything else) cant tell whats arc staining or just oil spots. heres a pic; Ok, first firing order is 15426378 with 1-4 on the right (passenger) side, 5-8 left (driver) side, Ford manuals say wire sequence on left should be 5768 to prevent cross firing. If you want to see if the wires are questionable, open the hood in the dark, if you lots of sparks then they are bad. Old rule I used in my shop was if the date code is over 3 years (it will or used to be 1Q-19 which would be 1st quarter of 2019). If they are older than 1Q-17 replace them. If you can get some good insulated plug wire puller pliers, take them off the plug, but keep the end near the head or manifold and see (a) if you have a good spark and (b) if it makes any difference in the running. One item, you didn't by chance wash the engine did you?

Here is a video of what i did, i am not seeing any change as you can see in the video. Let me know what you think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4oP2Bp3T8s Ok, that was the bowl vent hose, was there any vacuum on the hose? If there was then that may be part of the problem. Does it run any better if you try covering the top of the carburetor? That would indicate it is very lean. I see several things not connected in the video, throttle kicker for one. What is the build date on the truck, it will be on the door sticker, your underhood label says 1984 for emission compliance. The silver piece is the EGR valve and it looks new, did it come with the spacer? Did you get all of the old gasket off the intake manifold when you changed things?

See if this helps in tracing things out. The blue is the one I would temporarily disconnect and plug.

Thanks for this! Where can i find the large canister purge hose, will this be on the emission diagram? Also, to answer your question, i did replace the spacer when i replaced the carb. I bought the carb from National Carburetor and it came with a new spacer. I just ran it and pulled the vacuum from the EGR valve (or what i thought was the EGR, not sure) and no change. Here is the label for the emission diagram: Ok, on your vacuum diagram, the two connected purge C/V (Purge Control Valve) devices, the black line that doglegs part way through and has a Tee going to the carburetor portion, that is the canister purge vacuum. The lines that connect to the bowl vents and canisters are the vapor lines, both of those will be decent size hoses 1/4" or bigger on the cannister side, the other larger one to both valves should be manifold vacuum. The small line in the middle is the control and is teed to the EGR valve, it appears white in the picture, and comes from a port on the carburetor to a 2 port thermal vacuum valve then through a vacuum delay valve and tees to the EGR and purge control. One item, if the purge valves are bad, they can leak air into the intake. There may be a quick connect on the right front of the engine where they run toward the control valves and cannisters. If needed I can take my diagram for the 1984 CA spec and mark the different areas and functions. Now I know why yours doesn't look as bad as mine did, it's a 1984. Here is what mine had before going MAF/SEFI

Once you get the EFI system up and running it uses a male coil connector too.

Welcome to our group, very nice looking truck! Auto or manual transmission?

Ok, first thing to look at are all the vacuum lines, especially the large canister purge hose, for some reason Ford thought having a soft 3/8" hose make a sharper than 90° bend into a fitting with manifold vacuum on it was a good idea. Second, disconnect the vacuum to the EGR valve, if the engine smooths out, then you have an issue in the vacuum lines (Lord help you on that). Distributor will have vacuum at all times, except the primary is through a restrictor, the cold and overheat different thermal vacuum switches bypass the restrictor. Also check that the PCV valve hasn't come apart. If you find nothing obvious, start the engine cold and carefully check the EGR valve area for getting hot quickly with no vacuum connected. If you know a shop or a friend with one of the older ignition scopes check the plug patterns, a lean cylinder will show up as a high spike. Everything sounds like a vacuum leak causing one of more cylinders to be lean. An unlit propane torch can be used to find vacuum leaks by passing it near gaskets. I will ask one question, when you replaced the carb, did you pull up the spacer and replace the lower spacer to intake gasket? If you need it, I do have access to the emission diagrams, all I need is the code number from the label either on the left valve cover or radiator support. Very nice looking truck! From the engine picture yours isn't as cluttered as mine was, dual air pumps and enough piping on top of the intake for two engines and the "spiders" on each exhaust manifold.

Resistance, one possibly stripped stud, funky high tension connector. Surprised it didn't fry a DS-II module.

Actually the ports didn't open up that much, the 1993-97 460s had air injection into the exhaust ports so the manifold opening had to be larger. Here are some pictures of the manifolds: Right side F3 on top, E8 on bottom Port opening on F3 manifold Port opening on E8 manifold F3 gasket against E8 head On the F3 manifolds, even though the opening is larger, it is only to allow the air injection ports to work without restricting the exhaust flow. If I remember correctly, the port air feed was primarily during warm up, after that the flow is redirected to the catalytic converter, in between the reducing catalyst and oxidizing catalyst.

I won't be dropping the engine in any time soon. Yes I will need the distributor also, I got rid of all of the old stuff to a Federal Marshall in Norfolk VA who needed it. I will just stick the 8 old injectors in to plug the holes. I primarily need to be able to run it 2500 rpm for 20-30 mins to break in the cam. I can use the 735 Holley I have to do it.

Looks good sir! One question, I see a Duraspark label on an aluminum box peeking out from behind the washer fluid/overflow tank, would that be the one you need to locate and install? After your new engine is broken in, can I rent the DS-II, Carter and adapter to do the same with Darth's new engine?

Not a Bullnose, but my best friend's 2003 E250 5.4L has over 600K and I know for a fact the furthest it's been into was a water pump and thermostat. It was a route truck for my brother's business, went every week to WV from Chesapeake VA, but every other week of that was into Ohio.

The amperage is determined by the stator windings and diodes, the regulator only control the voltage, soft start is to keep the belt from slipping on startup. for a low output like 95 amps, the 2 second soft start should be adequate. I think I have the 10 second on mine, but is an uprated 130 amp unit (160 amps) and it would squeal the polygroove belt. I finally put a larger pulley on it as no amount of tension would keep from getting rubber dust on the alternator.

That was the reason for me going to the PMGR starter, to keep from having a Chineseum relay either weld itself together or just flat not connect.

The thermactor is the air pump. EGR system I believe will only open after a certain speed is reached. The EGR and thermactor solenoid valves are all powered by the red wire that powers the injectors the brown/pink wire goes to pin #33 on the EEC after first passing through C101 which should be a round 8 pin (not all may be used) plug on the left inner fender. If it is working at all you should be able to feel it "hum" as it is a duty cycle valve which pulses.

Gee, that looks familiar. I have a 1990 and a 1996 if you want to at some point add them.

Well a 1991 is a much improved system from a 1986. Are you saying that an 06 French truck reminds you of a 1986 Ford? Ok, 1991 I think if you can find someone with a fair scan tool it may be able to read live data when running. Two of the major changes in addition to pin changes on the EEC are a speed input and a single duty cycle EGR control valve. You had me concerned when you posted a 3 digit code, 1986 only had 2 digit codes. 1990-up have a fuel pump module so no extra frame mounted pump. That TPS does not need to be right at 1 volt, the EEC will read the value when cranking and set that as idle/closed throttle. Shane, maybe these will help, they are from my AllData

This is the first time I noticed. I found out with my Ranger, if any part of the battery sticks up past the mounting flange of the fender, you're probably gonna have a bad time. And it looks like the same applies here. You were obviously fine with 80-86 tray since the battery sat lower. But not on the 87-96 tray. Let's see original battery for Darth, 1986 F350 460 is a group 64, 11.7" long, 6.4" wide and 8.9" high, RH-POS, group 65, 12.1" long, 7.5" wide and 7.6" high (I thought I remembered a reason the front brace wouldn't fit) LH-POS, which is 1987-97 and my Taurus and Mary's Flex group 31, 13" long, 6.8" wide and 9.4" high LH-POS Given that, you should only be 1/2" taller, but 1.3" or a little over 1 1/4" longer and .4" wider. I would bet the 1.3" longer is part of the problem. Are you still using the 1985 battery tray on the right side or a later one? You may also need to make sure the battery is fully seated in the tray, not up on the edges. The reversal of the positive post is why the battery is also a problem the group 64 when installed has the positive post on the right side rear so it is far enough away to not touch. When I first put a group 65 in Darth, I had the positive right side front, but since it is 1.3" shorter than the group 64 there was no contact with the hood. When I got the cable set from Jim, I had already turned the battery around and everything hooked up like it was supposed to.

Ok, no adjustment on the TPS, no slots, base idle is set with the IAC disconnected if I remember correctly, but spec is based on voltage at the TPS. Filter is in the base of the reservoir, it unscrews for access. I was trying to find the thread on FTE where my son posted the PN for it, but no luck.

Gary, you are running into the same issues I did on Darth when I went to a group 65 battery. The only difference was I still had the original 1986 battery tray so my top clamp still fit but the brace on the front didn't. What group battery are you trying to cram in there? The group 65 is a flange mount battery which makes all of my Fords take the same battery. Due to being a flange mount they are easy to reverse for clearance, at least Ford's battery trays are metal, not like the K-car ones.

Ok, first item, TPS, aftermarket or Motorcraft? My so and I went through a nightmare on his 86 F150, part of the problem was the aftermarket TPS. The 1986 system expects to see 1.0 V at closed throttle, I believe +/- .05 volts, and at 1.10 volts the EGR system comes in, meaning his was chattering the solenoid valves and surging at idle. On your frame, just behind the high pressure pump is a reservoir and on dual tank models a switching valve. In the bottom of that is filter for the inlet of the high pressure pump. Does the truck have a "check engine" light? Or it may say "emissions", if it does codes can be read through that. Unfortunately most parts stores can only read OBD-II systems and that is an OBD-I system. The fact that you have been able to read them is a plus. I will see if I can find a good diagnostic chart and scan it so Gary can put it on the site.

So you live in that little Greek town on the bay, Annypolis. I was hatched, er born there at the Naval Hospital. My parents met when dad was attending Severn River Tech (Naval Academy) and for some strange reason I appeared almost exactly 9 months after VJ day. Welcome to our little insane asylum. Have you ever been down to Grandfather Mountain for the Scottish games? I have a few friends who try to go every year, one is a Matheson, the other a Gleason.