85lebaront2

Gary, I would say split into two files, one for the first 236 pages and one for the rest as the break from parts catalog to location lists seems to be a logical break point.

In the car the compressor sat just ahead of the left upper control arm location. The Harrison/Delco A6 compressor was one of the smoothest running compressors, Ford used it on the Lincolns for that reason, it was much smoother and quieter than the Tecumseh or York two cylinder units. It was a bit of a power hog as it first came on the market in 1963 when luxury cars had big powerful engines. GM used on pretty much everything including the BOP "compacts" with the V6 and 215 ci V8s. The starter on a lot of the early 429/460 car engines was a Delco-Remy solenoid shift starter and on most cars still retained the infamous Ford starter relay and had the starter solenoid battery and S terminals jumpered with a flat strap so the normal starter cable would operate it. Some of the Lincolns wired it like GM, battery cable to the solenoid and a smaller wire to the S terminal on the solenoid.

The brown wire is the parking/running lights and on cab and chassis or heavier trucks with roof lights that wire has been know to destroy the light switch, The DRW trucks use a relay and separate feed for the fender and rear clearance lights.

Looks like what I had on my 1971 Colony Park after a grabbed the brackets off a 1972 Lincoln Town Car. Saginaw pump sat high, Delco A6 compressor sat outboard of the left valve cover and definitely would not work in a van, probably OK in a pickup.

I thought his signature said 351M? I went to your link and all I could get was one page. I was just going to grab the carburetors section, but couldn't access it, tried the whole thing and got just the contents, 381 Kb.

Strap tool, any shop that works on FWD axles should have several different styles.

Too bad you are on the left coast. I could probably rebuild a 2150 blindfolded, however, final adjustments have to be done on the engine. Past experience on the 351M/400 engines, the carb was jetted so damn lean from the factory they would barely run. If the carburetor has the small air bleed metering rods and they were disturbed it may take someone with a good combustion analyzer to get it straight again. Choke, there is a vacuum diaphragm on the back right side of the carburetor, it is supposed to pull the choke open a specified distance (I do not have specs older than 1983) to allow the engine to run. On the same side there is a fast idle cam, there is an arrow point stamped on it, with the engine warm and the stop screw on that side against the arrow, the fast idle should be at the rpm specified on the emission label. Other items, vacuum advance not connected, bad or incorrectly connected will cause piss poor running. Idle mixture screws, if you can get a 351M too rich with the factory carb I would love to see it.

Mine had the factory trailer harness, nut it was bought new to haul horse trailers.

Sounds great! I always made sure when I or any of my mechanics installed an aftermarket carburetor to make sure it got full throttle and would return to idle with no problems.

Have fun with the U-joint, at least it is a decent size one, not like the center joint on a 1963 Jetfire.

Gary, two items, first, as the truck loads the front springs, the axle will move slightly forward as it goes up so it is not just a straight vertical motion, rear is going to be the same except as the axle goes up it will move slightly back so in both cases the springs flexing will somewhat extend the driveshafts. It won't be much, but it may help with the spline travel.

Hmm, that's how mine is, EEC-V controls ignition, fuel and transmission. This is why I have a couple of spare EEC-V boxes and if I am going to be going a good distance, like to my son's in WV, I can toss one in the truck, I can swap the connector to the spare with a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet in maybe 10 mins, I can change the whole thing out in probably 20 mins with an 11mm socket and a large screwdriver to push down the inner fender for clearance.

Alignment on these trucks can be daunting and there are a lot of shops who don't know how to align them or just won't touch them. At least yours has the ball joints that can be adjusted by changing the bushings. If you notice looking the information Gary posted, the rear ride height needs to be measured as it enters in to the caster chart (and possibly the camber chart). One thing I have found, the radius arms (section under the spring that goes back to a frame bracket) bushings go bad and allow the axle halves to move back and forth when driving and especially when braking. I can't tell you how well the ball joint front end hold alignment, I can tell you that both of the Twin-I beam trucks I have owned (1977 F150 and 1986 F350) both, once properly aligned, have worn the front tires dead even and drive as well as you could expect from a truck. Both have the actual king pin front suspension.

Gary, that could be the stick length, not the tube length. I can measure the stick length on Darth's tomorrow, or maybe Jim could, his should be the same as the screw in style seems to have died with the carbureted engines.

82 PIT BULLNOSE has his for sale right now, he is in Texas.

Gary, the original carbureted one on Darth comes up past the outside of the manifold then curves forward. It is a long enough tube that it could probably be "snaked" through the headers with the help of a tubing bender. Unfortunately it is still in use. I have the original one from the 1990 parts truck, but it has no gland nut so I am not sure it would seal in the 1986 pan.

Congratulations sir! Too bad I no longer own my 1977 F150, it went to my oldest son 23 years ago, and may still be running around central Texas.

Jim, I buy all my Motorcraft filters from Wally World, the local independent Jobber carries Wix which is what is on the Chrysler engine currently as even though Wally World carries Mopar filters, their little lookup device only shows a Fram filter for those engines (thread and base is the same as the Fl1a but frame clearance makes it interesting).

Are you going to offer comital papers for those who want to try it?

Damn, Frank, a 1990 Town Car, we had one of those, last year for the 302 and first year for the new body and only year for the rear drum brakes on that body. Nice car, gave it to our daughter after my first wife passed away and her live in boyfriend trashed it for her.

And you wonder why I said "no way in hell" on headers in a truck. You would have to prove a minimum of 25% increase in power over what I have now for me to even consider it. I had two cars, both small Windsor V8s, a 260 in a 1964 Falcon and a Cobra 289 in a 1966 GT350. The Falcon had Hedman Headers as they were the only tuned headers made for the pre-1966 Falcon and Comet, the Shelby came with Shelby's tri-Y headers and when they started rusting out I bought a pair of Hookers and their Header mufflers. The Hookers were the 1 5/8 primary and 3" collector models specified for Shelby and 351W engines only, all other Windsors took 1 1/2" primaries and 2 1/2" collectors. The Falcon was a royal PITA to work on with headers, the left side came down, curved under the frame and back in on the rear tubes in order to get enough length. They passed between the frame, steering column and box and engine. The clutch cross shaft had to come out and it had to go in from below with the car pretty high off the ground, right side was a little better but not much due to the short hood length. The Shelby was better, left side was still a pain due the the clutch cross shaft, right side I could take the muffler loose, pull the plug wires and take it out from the top with the car on the ground. I had a stack of real asbestos header gaskets in my garage so I didn't have to go find some when I needed them.

I would open up the Bullnose Forum and leave the Garagemahal the way it is. I am admin on two groups, 429-460 Big Block Fords and Ford Dually trucks. We somewhat rely on member policing and it works pretty well, any member can report a post and one of the admins has to review and decide to keep or delete it. You would be amazed at what people try to post. We had one guy on the 429-460 group, apparently young, who went to work at a dealership and was forever listing new F150s on there. He blocked the site owner and I was asked if I could dump him (he neglected to see who the other admins were) so he was toast. One guy posted his sister's Chevy 1500 4 times, I deleted it each time (all posts have to be approved by an admin) and he kept coming back, I warned him, asked the group owner as he had added him, and the next time I deleted the post and him. I can mute someone who is arrogant and crude for a period, which sometimes they just quit after that. Gary, maybe some of us who are on FB could help monitor it for you.

Then tell them that’s where it should be! So a normal human can get to it! I do! but you know how they are...excuses excuses:nabble_smiley_whistling: Then I remind them that my grandpa worked at the GM assembly plant in the 60s, and maybe some of the 70s, and even he didn't buy a GM truck because he didn't like how GM had them building the trucks! He went to Ford and bought a new 69 F100 390 FE, 3 speed on the column that he drove till the day he died! I'm not a GM hater but I will give someone a hard time anytime I can:nabble_smiley_wink: Not every GM engine is a Chevy, Buick and Cadillac had front mounted distributors. The worst ones I used to get and hate with a passion were Pontiacs. In addition to sitting at an angle, it turns opposite the Chevy and Oldsmobiles and getting the wrench in the screw without getting knocked on your butt was damn near an exercise in futility. My actual worst for access I owned was a 1957 312 in my 1958 F100, the battery on those trucks was on the right side of the firewall. a group 29NF and where it sat was about 3" from the distributor cap an the Y-block making point replacement loads of fun. Back to the original thread, I used to sell both Mallory and when they came on the market Accel distributors, the difference in approach to high rpm point stability was interesting, Mallory got their start in the Flathead Ford era and their Rev-pol system showed it, two sets of points 45° apart in rotation, each working one end of a special coil which acted like two 4 cyl coils, the Double-Life distributor was the Rev-Pol distributor, wired for a normal coil. Their approach to limiting point bounce was simple, use very light points, thin stamped metal riveted to phenolic bearing blocks with a fairly light spring and on the Double-Life, 4 lobe cam so each point only opened 1/2 as often. We had an Allen 9K engine rpm distributor machine, my Mallory Double-Life would not show any anomalies in point behavior at 9K. Accel, took the opposite approach, using GM style points with very strong springs to achieve the same result, their big pitch was externally adjustable points, they also sold points for installation in your stock distributor. Their points in their distributor would start to show bounce at just over 8K, getting to total hash by 9K. Using their points in a stock distributor, plan on rebuilding or replacing it in just over 6-9 months as they would destroy the cam. At low rpm the advance was haphazard due to the spring load on rubbing blocks. Mallory distributors used a vacuum brake, same thing Ford had before 1949, it retarded the mechanical advance at low manifold vacuum, letting the full advance come in at high vacuum. It was a very simple system, two plates with the centrifugal weights on the upper one, and a spring in an adjustable slot that with no brake would pull the upper plate into the desired advance, problem was it was an all or nothing event, once the vacuum retracted the brake piston, the advance went to the max vacuum at once unlike factory systems where it varied with vacuum. Accel at that point had no vacuum advance provision. Since true electronic (breakerless) systems were in their infancy in those days (1970s) there were a number of aftermarket systems, I carried the Delta Mark 10 CDI systems, they used points to trigger them and a capacitor charged to 400 VDC to fire a stock coil and used a .060 plug gap. We found that due to the aggressive advance curve used by Chrysler that they were prone to misfire condition at highway cruise speeds. Delta released the Mark 10B specifically to address this, it used a variable duration spark. As Detroit went to breakerless ignition systems starting with Chrysler then everyone following with their own system. GMs was the cheapest and quickest to add, a self contained unit for most engines (the rear drive V6 S10 had a separate coil due to clearance problems), Chrysler's was the most problematic, extremely sensitive to reluctor air gap, Ford's initial Duraspark wasn't super either, and AMC used a Motorola built unit that was very reliable, but the distributor vacuum advance was an over engineered PITA with both a vacuum and barometric chamber in the advance, they failed if you looked them hard. The GM HEI has one main problem, it is a current hog, needing a 10ga feed wire from a solid battery source. GM built this into their cars, using a real, not Chinese HEI unit in another brand really needs a relay to tap the battery positive side directly.

Well, having thought about it, you are right. There can't be any more than 1/2". If the bolt is 1 1/4" and the flange is 1/2" that leaves 3/4". But that washer has to be 1/8" when compressed, and the gasket is probably about the same. So ~1/2" is probably the max it could be. I might suggest you see if you can source some Torx socket head bolts the correct length, then you can probably get more turn on them.

On their way to you.