85lebaront2

The group 65 is one of the biggest, the old 27F may have been a little bigger, that was what my 1971 Colony Park took. Parts store told me they were no longer available (lied) and sold me a 24F, 15-20 mins loading the car and it wouldn't crank, 2 dome lights, 4 under armrest door lights and a cargo light in the back pulled that little battery down where it couldn't even turn the 429 over.

Ok, 1983 EEC-III 5.0L the piece on the back of the carburetor is the mixture control solenoid, red is battery, tan with a light green dot is mixture control. That will be a pulsing or variable reading to ground through the EEC.

The 1986 battery is different from the 1987-1996/7 those carry a group 65 battery, 1986 carries a group 56 battery.

Gary, I looked at Darth's alternator and it is clocked to get the stud out away from the head. What I have found, if with the 3 bolts out you get a screwdriver blade under the edge of the stator core where the bolts were and pry a little at each of the three locations the stator and rear housing will come loose. Just remove the regulator/brush assembly before doing it.

4 pins makes sense, start and reverse lamps.

C128 is the one I remember on Darth, it has both halves of the starter circuit (32) and both halves of the reverse lamps, the transfer case switches (4WD and Lo), possibly a portion of the "fasten seat belts" circuit. Probably some other things too.

One of the problems I ran into, on the 1985 and 1986 EFI 302s, the EFI system was essentially an "overlay" harness, actually 2, one for the EEC under the dash and the other mostly on the engine. I have no idea what Ford used for a source for the wire used, but almost every one of them I have seen has bad areas in the harness, bare wires, cracked insulation, gooey, sticky tape etc. Unfortunately, those harnii were unique to those years, a lot of the engine portion can be found on 1987-1989 302 truck engines including E-series, but since some of the control system was only used on 1985-86 models you are still going to have to do some modifications (splicing wires) and you do not want to do it with butt connectors. One of the big problem areas is the system ground, it is a black with light green wire that plugs into a short pigtail attached to the negative battery cable clamp bolt, the plug is a non-weathertight 1/4" wide blade that corrodes due to the battery proximity, if it develops a high resistance the system will not run. Good luck with it!

First item, your apology is accepted, I generally will not get in an argument with someone, I will try to the best of my ability to explain how things are supposed to work. If someone wants to get in a pissing contest with my, I will let them go their merry way, there was one on FTE a few years ago having issues with a Quadrajet on a Ford engine, FWIW, 1970-71 429 CJ engines came with them, the SCJ had a Holley. I was trying to walk through his issue and got told in so many words I didn't know what I was talking about. so I left the thread, I monitored it for a few days, and after several people (Gary may have been one) told him he had probably just pissed off the one person who could help him (problem was 4 cyls pig rich), he begged me to please come back. I told him to carefully remove the top and look at his primary metering rods, sure enough he had bent one when he missed the jet. Ok, lets see if I understand (a) what you have done and (b) some suggestions. (a) you have an early (1985.5-1986) EFI 302 engine. You have not clearly defined what year EEC you are using. You have chased down the wiring differences between 1986-1987 and from what I gather are using the 1985.5-1986 EEC. Technically, as near as I can tell, when Ford says a 1, 2, 3 or 4 wire O2 sensor, it is 1 is signal 2 are signal & ground (orange) 3 are signal and heater (white wires) 4 are signal, ground & heater (usually gray, black and white). The reason the heated O2 sensor didn't work correctly, no heater so It could not respond properly. Question, are you still using the rear of the right exhaust manifold for the O2 sensor, or are you using the later location (in the Y pipe)? If it is in the Y pipe, you will need to have a heated sensor for proper response, wiring the heater in is easy, it uses the purple/orange wire (backup lamps feed) as a power source, the other side is grounded. One of the early mistakes Detroit made when heated O2 sensors first came out, was to use the same ground wire for heater and signal grounds, this caused problems if there was too much resistance in the ground circuit. If you are using the later EEC, a few items, pin relocation you have covered, EGR control, 1985.5-1986 use two solenoids, vacuum and vent, 1987 up use a single "duty cycle" combined vacuum and vent valve. 1985.5-1986 do not use a speed sensor, 1987 up do. 1985.5-1986 throttle position sensor, is extremely sensitive and touchy, if you have to change it, bite the bullet and get a Motorcraft one, we fought a surging idle issue on my son's 1986 F150 until he finally bought a Motorcraft sensor. The idle setting is based on the TPS reading of 1 +/- .1 volts, the aftermarket one would not go below 1.15 volts at fully closed throttle. 1987 up, the EEC looks at the closed throttle reading and uses it for control. BTW, I am a trained Diesel mechanic, Detroit Diesels in the Marines, Mercedes-Benz Diesels at the local dealer in Hampton VA and owned several GM 5.7L Diesels.

I used to just carry my spare behind the back seat, only had to use it once, Darth died completely going up 7 mountains grade on US 322W in PA, coasted over to the side, grabbed the spare and plugged it in. fired up and continued. Still did it faster then a similar Chevy, towing the same trailer as ours, 454, 4.10 rear and best he could do was 22 mph in 1st, we were doing 37 mph in 2nd with the 3.55 rear, love that 460 torque!

Works fine for me, but being (a) old fashioned and (b) not really liking to squint at iPhone 5 size pages, I use my PC or MacBook to view the site.

Governor on a C6 can be tuned, many car ones are set for higher RPM shifts. I had a fellow who owned one of the few non-franchise Aamco shops build me one for a 390 in trade for doing a Mercedes-Benz K4A025 box for his shop. First time I really got on it, I floated the valves in the Camper Special 390. He pulled the extension and took a weight washer out of the governor. For the other part of the discussion on E4ODs, I have the converter clutch on mine set to require 80% throttle to unlock, I let my 460 provide the torque. Torque converters generate enormous amounts of heat when working.

I have done it quite a bit on my konvertible and on Darth. I will crimp a lug on, with a piece of heat shrink slid up the wire, solder it and then once it cools slide the heat shrink down and seal it.

Possible stripped gear, again enough to spin the cable, but not the speedometer, internal hole in the plastic driven gear worn, again to the point it will spin the cable but not the speedometer. Can also, if the cable has been replaced, the plastic tip on the universal cable rounded so it won't drive the speedometer, or it is cut too short and not engaging. Cable housing not fully snapped in place on the speedometer (don't ask).

Ok, first item, vacuum advance is not functional under heavy load, which is low manifold vacuum. Pinging under those conditions can be addressed by tightening the spring tension on the mechanical advance weights. Pinging under light load is vacuum advance related. If your vacuum advance "can" has a hexagonal section just right in from the nipple, it can be adjusted. A 1/8" Allen wrench is used, clockwise increases the total and lowers the required vacuum, counterclockwise decreases the total and raises the required vacuum. On the catalog rack, when my son was running the SPI warehouse in Linthicum Heights MD (Gary knows him) his first demand was a full set of printed catalogs for all lines they carried. He will be 43 this year, but spent a lot of his time in the parts business, he is now IT manger for Olympus Foreign Parts.

Looks good sir! I have done the same thing with larger wires, seems to work well.

The factory "stainless steel" exhaust systems are 400 series which will turn brown but last for ever. My 1986 F350 still has the original factory muffler and tailpipe after 34 years.

USMC 2 1/2 ton trucks, Armstrong, probably 10 turns lock to lock and took all your strength to turn it sitting still. My 1958 F100 was easy compared to them, even my best friend's 1969 Mach 1 428 CJ with manual steering was easy compared to them. Closest I found to one was an F600 dump truck, 300 HD engine and manual steering.

Gary, did the 1983 2WD trucks still have king pins? I am not that familiar with the change points on the Bullnose trucks. I know the F350s had king pins on 2WD through 1986.

You may eventually need it, the wire from there also goes to the EEC so it knows the AC compressor is running. The VMV, if Adam can turn it off completely (on Darth he originally had the purge valve). The 1996/7 CA spec EEC-V and evaporative emission is unique in the fact that it is not a sealed system like Blue Jeans uses. It still uses atmospheric vents at the tanks, but does have a nice evaporative system, still has the dual cannisters, but instead of a 3/16" line from the tanks, uses a 3/8" line probably due to the heating of the fuel being returned to the active tank. I know that before I converted Darth to EFI if I filled both tanks in hot weather I needed to run on the front tank first, or at least long enough to pull some fuel out of it. If I didn't, the tank would "burp" some fuel out of the filler neck. Since I went to EFI and added the plumbing for the larger evaporative system it hasn't happened.

Could it be red with yellow? That would be C106 and is the AC cycling switch connection to the harness, it will go across to C101 (42 way engine connector near PDC) and to the high pressure cutout switch on the compressor. When it goes through C101 it becomes black with yellow. I can look at Darth tomorrow for you if it isn't raining.

You think 5 years is bad, I took my 1985 konvertible apart in 2009 after it was totaled. I started putting the 1986 replacement together last year.

Gary the three mystery plugs, what did that harness come from? Could the middle have been light green with red? If so it is the alternator light to alternator. The right hand one is probably a dirty red and is possibly the starter control. The left hand one if it could be red and light green with black is the canister purge control (called a vapor management valve) it was used on the 460 CA spec vehicles instead of the plain solenoid valve.

That exact reason was part of why I converted Darth to EFI. At the time there were no true port injection systems other than OEM for the 460. As I discovered in researching things, the MAF/SEFI 460 was in the words of one person a "unicorn". The problem, all of them were California specific systems and only on E4OD trucks. I wanted MAF/SEFI as it isn't as sensitive to cam profile as a Speed Density (MAP sensor) system. There were never any truck systems with speed density SEFI. The other issue came with the desire to add an OD transmission with a lock-up converter. The commonly used Mustang 5.0L EEC will not control an E4OD, the required circuits aren't there. My first shot was a 1995 Bronco 5.0L EEC, code WAY1 which will run an E4OD, my problem with that was shift points, the 5.0L is a relatively low torque high revving engine, I did not want to be buzzing a 460 up like that. My system uses an EEC-V computer that I can reflash as needed and it controls the E4OD just fine. I have the torque converter clutch unlock set at 80% throttle and let the 460's torque do the work.

I agree with Gary on that. My opinion on central or throttle body injection systems, they are like aircraft "pressure carburetors". As long as the pump can draw fuel from the tank they will run at all sorts of angles and do a better job of atomizing the fuel than a carburetor. Port injection systems, there are several styles, the simplest being a constant flow system, the earliest being the 1957 Chevrolet Rochester "Ram Jet" system, first it had a ram manifold design of 8 runners from a plenum for power, but the 8 injectors were all fed by a common source by a mechanical high pressure gear pump, metering was by a combination of manifold vacuum and air flow using a venturii for the flow signal. Bosch used a similar system called CIS, for continuous injection system. Bosch had an earlier system, electronic called D-Jetronic for manifold depression, this had a set of points in the bottom of the distributor to run the injectors in 4 groups of 2 on V8s (FWIW, same cylinder numbering as Ford, and firing order as flathead and Y-block). The system used a manifold pressure sensor and a fairly simple computer. Ford EEC-IV systems can be either sequential or bank fired, cars usually had sequential unless they were the early TBI systems. Trucks were bank fired, and the banks are 4 end cyls. and 4 center cyls. Somewhere around 1988 Ford started changing from MAP sensors (Manifold Absolute Pressure) to MAF (Mass Air Flow) systems. It was started with the Mustangs, then migrated through other car lines, most when the Mod motors were introduced starting in 1991 with the Lincoln Town cars, and 1992 with the Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis models. Trucks began to see MAF/SEFI in 1994 on the 5.0L engines and electronic transmission controls, the last to get this were the 7.5L engines, and only on California under 14,000 GVW trucks. Aftermarket systems frequently do not have the capability to control transmissions, particularly the full electronic ones like the 4R70/75W and E4OD or 4R100. These require a second computer for the transmission.

Good find sir! Gaskets can drive a person crazy trying to find the right one.