85lebaront2

That is actually my picture unless you are referring to the one after powder coating, Gary was missing one and I sent my extra to him.

I never had to take any out in years of operating a carburetor shop.

I don't suppose you have newer catalogs available, or are they all on-line only?

Ha! Well, I can tell you that the socialized medical system in Canada would do nothing for your toothache, and even if they did, they'd probably schedule an appointment for a specialist to have a look at for you in 2023. Our national healthcare system doesn't cover dental. We have to pay out of pocket for that, or pay for a medical plan through work, which isn't cheap. I pay about $3500/yr for mine. It covers all of the other stuff that our healthcare doesn't....and even then, it only covers the basics. If you need something like a crown, you're paying for it out of pocket. I read things like this and am very grateful that I retired from a major defense contractor. They pay almost all of my and my wife's annual premiums for our Medicare supplement. As far as "free" healthcare, I need to look no further than or VA system. Veterans have died waiting for appointments, there was even one who died in the waiting room. Worst part, it varies wildly from one VA center to another. My daughter, who had managed at one point to "game the wellfare system", said to me one day "Medicare is free like Medicaid" I straightened her out on that, as I have been paying into it since LBJ started it and still have it taken out of my Social Security check.

Gary, my link was assuming you don't have lock motors or they are bad and need everything. It also shows a 4 door system.

I'm running these on my Ranger, and have no complaints about them. These are my second set. They're not obnoxious for an MT, mileage seems to be okay, and they hold their own offroad. I can't justify spending $1200 for a name, since I previously ran Goodyear Duratracs and couldn't keep tread on them past 25k. These are cheaper, are a bigger size, and lasted almost twice as long as my Duratracs did. I am lucky in as much as the school buses here run the same size tires as Darth, they are easy to find and not too horrible. I have had the front ones on since Dec 2014, so 5 years and they still have plenty of tread. They are heavier load rating (E vs D) but are cheaper than ordering LR D tires.

Gary, I think just a different link to the one I shared. Looks like the exact same parts.

Gary and others interested. First, the RKE system used on the later trucks is the same as my 1994 Taurus, the truck system lacks the door keypad, but the connector is on the module. The switches need to be modified as the wiring is different. I have pictures of how to disassemble the switch connectors. This popped up one day on the Chrysler related site I am a member of: https://www.amazon.com/XYZCTEM-Central-Conversion-Entry-Universal-Vehicles/dp/B016RUV8Z2?ref_=Oct_s9_apbd_orecs_hd_bw_b140Cd_1&pf_rd_r=6RVZ29R6YH522NNBBPHC&pf_rd_p=25428c2e-5869-5578-95c7-4f9b533d1289&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=15730431&tag=allparconvert-20 there are several options, primarily 2dr or 4 dr.

What that looks like is a gamer's computer case., impressive looking, but not completely practical for what you need.

It's worse the newer the truck, 1987-91 bumpers were weak from the beginning as they aren't bolted directly to the frame. They do have fairly substantial looking braces. The fellow I got the 1990 F250 parts truck bumped into the back of his 1964 Corvair Monza convertible and bent the end of the bumper and the brace, Corvair had a scrape in the paint.

Gary, when you want computer advice (a) Chris Tubutis, (b) remember what my son does for a living and © My 88 year old father was still building his own computers.

Gary, they sell external USB CD-ROM drives.

Ray, I bought Darth to tow a 30' 5th wheel with a slide-out living/dining area. The previous owner had bought him for the same purpose. Darth originally belonged to Delmar Stables in Suffolk VA and was ordered new to tow horse trailers. I agree with Gary on towing a 5th wheel any distance, dually is the way to go. If you go with a tow behind (you're only going to do it once unless you sell it later and deliver) a good HD F250 of F350 will do it with no real problems. Towing with a 4WD is not as easy as towing with a 2WD, maneuverability as far as turning radius suffers due to the angular limits imposed by the 4WD axle U-joints (this is why FWDs use multi-ball CV joints). To give you a specific example, BIL bought a nice 1994 F250 4WD with the 7.3 IDI turbo-Diesel, it was a super cab, 155" wheelbase, Darth is a crew cab DRW, 168" wheelbase. We went to dinner from a campground in PA, and took Darth as the full back seat is much more comfortable than the seatlet in the super cab. We got to the end of the row he was parked in, I drove out far enough that the rear wheels would clear, cranked the steering to full right lock and turned. BIL says "how'd youse do that, I can't make that without backing up some and this truck is even longer". Crew cabs have a different steering setup allowing the inside front wheel to go damn near 90° to the frame.

Ok gentlemen, do I have to put both of you in time out? First, resistance wire in 1985-87 hot fuel handling package pump circuit needs to be bypassed for EFI pumps. You also need to look at wire gauge and pump fuse size on the 1996 system. Second, Bosch relay with large 30 & 87 terminals, is probably an ABS pump motor relay typically using a 40 amp or bigger fuse. Third, Ford used a standard Bosch relay to control the starter on the 1990 Town Car and the 1991 up Panther (and other) platforms to operate the PMGR starter.

In some cases, LED bulbs [used for turn signals] pull so little current that an electronic flasher is needed to control the flash rate. I installed an electronic relay, purchased @ NAPA for ~$13, and it works great for my incandescent bulbs. It flashes at the same rate regardless of idle speed, electrical load or temperature. I may try them on Darth, but I have relays for my trailer lights, so they should pull enough current to make the flasher work. I just finished building a setup for my Chrysler konvertible as I am trying to use a later steering column that is wired for separate stop and turn lights like European or Asian vehicles. It uses 4 relays to spoof the turn signal system into thinking it has separate bulbs.

sounds more than likely if there is an issue in the future this is also an easier relay to get you hands on. Yes. And one of the reasons I mentioned it. I have a reasonable stock of the Ford relays, but none of the Bullnose FPR. In fact, in a pinch a standard Bosch relay could be used, although you'd either have to take the tab off or leave the cover open. Forgot to mention when discussing the spreadsheet that at this point it looks like I'll have two relay slots open. There are five slots, and although one doesn't have contacts in it there are plenty of contacts to be had in other PDB's I have. So I'll have the PCM and the FPR relays. I don't need the horn relay since I'll use the Bullnose horn relay, but there are several things in there that need Key On power, so I'll use the horn relay as a key-on relay. That leaves two relays open, so I could use those for the headlights and power them off one of the unused fuse slots. However, I have the trailer option relay module that I won't use as I'll continue to use the Bullnose trailer setup. So I might use the two trailer relays by the main battery and just tap into the Bullnose headlight wiring at the right headlight and run the wires to the left headlight across the radiator support - if there's room in the bundle as it is already large. Suggestions? Gary, if you are using the '96 front wiring harness (mostly) I would definitely stick with using the Bosch style relays. They are plentiful, I have a huge box full of them, all tested (both NC and NO contacts and coil) I also have found that Ford, GM and Chrysler use the same relays but each has their own PN for them. On Darth, I grabbed a auxiliary relay box from a Bronco that has 4 Bosch relays in it, it was for part of the ABS and trailer package. I have 3 relays for the trailer lights + the battery charge relay. I wired the trailer stop and turn using the '96 harness, but modified by taking the rear stop and turn trailer feed Ford provided and using the taps that went to the two fuses for the trailer option but tapped into the circuit ahead of the fuses, used that for my trailer stop and turn relay coils, took the NO contacts output back through the fuses and into the '96 trailer harness. This way all of my rear clearance lights and trailer running along with stop and turn lights are isolated through fuses so a short in a trailer will not take out my truck lights. I can mark up the required pages from a '96 EVTM later, I will be gone most of the day.

I don't know how bad yours is, my 1986 had a tendency to melt some of the vacuum lines where they pass over the exhaust crossover. Here is what I pulled off it when I converted to EFI: You can see where I repaired the green and red lines in the center. That doesn't include the 3/8" hose to the evaporative canisters that has an almost J shaped connection to the vacuum fitting on the intake.

If you can afford to be without it for a couple of weeks, I used to have a carburetor shop, problem is I am clear on the other side of the country from you.

I will add some from my experience in installing a bricknose front clip on a bullnose cab and frame. Bumper, you are keeping the bumper, no problem. Front fenders, bullnose fenders are held on at the rear by two bolts up into the cab bottom rail, bricknose and aeronose by a single bolt into a clipnut. Seat belts, bullnose seat belt retractors mount up high, almost at the roofline, lower attachment is on the floor or in the trough behind the trim, bricknose and aeronose seat belt retractors are low down and "bulge" out on the B post (back of door). The inner door stamping has a recess for this at the back. Steering column has been discussed, but, if you can get the mounting plate for the bricknose, it can be swapped to your column. Dash, mostly covered, but two items, VIN number will need to be transferred from the old cab, and it is in a different location on the bullnose, roughly 2" further in than the later trucks. Wiring, loads of fun. A bullnose front harness is a single continuous assembly from left headlight, through the inside, across the dash, back out on the right side and to the battery and right headlight. Bricknose has a split harness, cab is separate from underhood and there is a round bolt on connector through the firewall on the left side that connects the two, engine connections are different, transmission and chassis harness also different and the bricknose front harness changed several times between 1987-1991. Door glass, all of the innards of the doors can be swapped, all the mountings are the same, power doors can be changed to manual and vice versa.

Gary, didn't I send you a clutch switch for Dad's truck before you changed plans?

Gary, the 1985 vacuum cruise servo will not need the deactivation switch on the master cylinder, that was only for the 1993 up electronic cruise control. The vacuum dump valves (you should have two on a manual transmission, one for each pedal) serve the same function. On the tanks, I am pretty sure the power for the pumps is the same as the 96 with one exception, the 1985 ground was inside the cab on the inner firewall brace. It still comes up front, but grounds on the radiator support.

I was able to get all the needed parts from a wrecked custom 1996 crew cab dually. Wiring runs across the floor behind the front seat. The B posts need holes for the rear door wiring. Driver's door panel needs to come from a crew cab with full power. Wiring across floor: Hole for rear door wiring: Driver's door panel with master switch (available aftermarket, but no connector): Rear door open: And closed: I later added rear courtesy light switches so the dome light will come on with the rear doors open.

You're right, I wasn't doing the math. Like I said, I heard the story a long time ago. I'm confident in the overall story (at least as I heard it...) but I'm thinking I'm not remembering the speed he said correctly. I really doubt I just missed the units (200 mph would be unbelievably fast for even a Mercedes prior to the mid 80s (and after really)). Or maybe I am remembering (mostly) correctly and Arnold said the speedo went up to 200 kph and they were well over that. Anyway, I gotta believe that with the shape of an Opel Kadet they were probably generating significant lift, and it couldn't have been fun at all! Guy I used to ride to NNS with had an Opel Kadet wagon with the 1.1L base engine (54 HP) one day we left to go home and it was rather windy, he got out onto I-64 headed East and when he shifted to 4th the car just wouldn't accelerate. He let off, speed dropped like a rock, h e put it back in 3rd wound it up as far as it would go and went back to 4th, same thing, maxed out at 52 mph. Years later I had one of the Opel Rallye models in my shop, 1.1L with dual Solex downdraft 1 barrels, 67 screaming hp. It had a horrible cold stumble, the heat passage in the intake had plugged with carbon, so a call to the Buick dealer got a set of intake gaskets and a lot of soaking, drilling and some heat got it working again.

Yes, Darth came manual windows and locks as only the front doors got the power option. I don't know when the change was, but I used 1996 rear doors on Darth which had everything.

Here's the answer to your question, Jim: