85lebaront2

My 1977 F150 had a 390 Camper Special engine I installed complete with the correct Holley 4 barrel and distributor. With the 3.25 gear and a C6 it did deliver 16-17mpg highway empty and would move if you stood on it. I carried an 11.5' Wolverine slide-in with it and when we fist bought our 5th wheel pulled that with it. Only problem I had towing the 5th wheel, brakes were a bit marginal, particularly when asbestos brake linings were banned. I completely fried a set taking it to a campground near Gordonsville VA.

The other solution, good for a long term fix, a PMGR starter from a later model truck. The fender relay then becomes just that, a simple relay. If you use the later cables, the ground goes directly to the lower starter bolt with a branch to the right fender and radiator support for body ground.

I was kind of, hmm. A good friend bought one when they first came out, and had it over at our house. We compared it to my 1958 F100 short bed and found it to be close in size. I remember being surprised that the 460 was no longer available and wondered how it was going to stack up in the towing world.

Damn, I wish I still had the old grille stuff from Darth, but it is long gone. You might call Pete's Used Parts in Newport News VA. (757) 599-1200 and ask if Donnie is available. Tell him if he is there or Will if not that Bill Vose said to call. He has a few 80s F-series and Broncos in a huge yard. Good luck!

Dave, I have installed a couple Rostra aftermarket cruise control systems and they have worked very well. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rpc-250-1223/ Even better price on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Ididit-Rostra-250-1223-Universal-Control/dp/B002VI9G6S The only kicker is that you have to buy the controller separately, but there are several to choose from, including ones that mount right on the turn-signal stalk, the same as the Ford dealer installed CC systems would have been. Installing them takes some creativity and you'll have to figure out how to get a brake and clutch signal, and you'll have to figure out a way to connect it to the throttle, etc. One of the benefits of this kit is that vacuum is not required...it is all electric. Anyway, if you go to the Rostra website, there's some good info on there. I will be installing one of these systems in my Bullnose between now and the spring, so I'll try to make some notes on how I get it all to work. Thanks will have to check it out when I have time Dave ---- In answer to several of the questions, a single sensor is used on a 1990 F250 with 460, E4OD, ABS and cruise to provide a signal to all of these, EEC, ABS controller and cruise. Ford used the same cruise system as the Bullnose has up through 1992. The electronic module for these is located near the steering column and also adds a horn relay as the cruise system uses the hot and ground for the horn to provide the source for the cruise module. In 1993, Ford changed the trucks to an all electronic system, but kept the exact same switch, power, ground and resistors in the steering wheel that the vacuum system used. As far as I know the control module for the vacuum system is probably interchangeable from cars to trucks. The electronic one mounts in the same location as the vacuum servo, the only other item it needs is a safety cancel switch on the master cyl. to kill the power to the cable pull clutch. On 1993-97 trucks it is powered through the ignition switch, unlike the 1997/8 and for a while after that had the switch fed directly from the battery leading to the fires. The vacuum system was built for pretty much any engine Ford used, and there is a dual cancel on these, both the brake light switch and a vacuum vent valve are used, and manual transmission models have a similar system on the clutch pedal to prevent engine runaway if the clutch is depressed while in cruise. As far as the pulse count for the system, it doesn't care how fast you are going, what gear or tires are there. When the cruise is engaged, it "remembers" the pulse count and simply tries to maintain that count, adjusting the throttle up or down to hold the setting.

The Kelsey-Hayes hydraulic controller has two internal contacts, one simply turns on the brake lights and comes on with very little motion of the lever, the second is a variable resistance, the further the lever moves, the greater the applied voltage. The brake light contact makes before the brake magnet feed, also I use that when running without anything behind or with my Aluma open cargo trailer which does not have brakes. Purpose is to scare the clowns that like to tailgate thinking their 2000 lb Honduh or similar is going to intimidate me in a 6400 lb crew cab DRW truck. Years ago, taking our oldest son to Atlanta to attend DeVry there, we were going down I-85 passing a long line of slower vehicles a Honduh got right on the back bumper, my wife asked "aren't you afraid he might hit us?" I informed her that if he did, the class 3 receiver hitch under the rear bumper of a roughly 5000 lb empty weight 1971 Colony Park wagon would do more damage to his car than he could think of doing to ours. After a few miles, I think the reality of the wagon tailgate being bigger than the front of his car and the facts that (a) I wasn't paying any attention to him and (b) was running 5 mph over the 75 mph speed limit he dropped back and just sort of drafted us till we passed the line, at which point I went back to the right lane.

On mine I believe the LG wire is the brake lights, I know I can "brake check" a clown who is dumb enough to put his little POS Jap or Korean crap on Darth's bumper by simply pushing the knob to the right. Red is power, Blue trailer brakes, White ground (not really needed on mine) Light Green is brake lights. FWIW, the 1992-97 PDC has two dedicated fuses for trailer stop and turn, they are slaved off the truck rear lights in the PDC. I went one better, due to previous experience and added two more relays, one for each side so a dead short in the trailer harness or trailer will only kill those circuits.

The newer trucks have a 4 pin brake controller plug. Here is my "old fashioned" Kelsey-Hayes hydraulic controller. Controller and 1996 adapter harness:. Mount I made for the 1996 dash: Controller wired up (ground really isn't needed): Installed and plumbed: Hydraulic line to 1993-97 master cylinder with cruise control override cancel switch:

If you look at the underhood portion you will see a power stud that is L side on the firewall. There should be a fusible link with a yellow wire that goes to a connector, C1106, the red wire from that goes in through the firewall to C1101, a gray 3 pin connector (I believe it was a round female one on Darth) this is where the brake controller should connect. Ford used to sell a pigtail that plugged in to it for trailer brakes. The output from the controller (keep in mind when these trucks were built hydraulic controllers were the norm) goes back through C1101 then out through the firewall to C1102, and from there down the frame rail to C1110 on the rear crossmember. The other trailer wiring is in the Turn/Stop & Hazard lamps section of the EVTM (pages 76-79) where the location of the rear connectors is pictured. Trailer running lights are in the exterior lamps section. If you are not hopelessly confused now, I believe I actually have a trailer tow chassis harness from Darth (crew cab long bed) that I saved when I rewired him to 1996 harnesses.

Gary, I have a fair amount of information on Ford connectors, including aftermarket sources for the male and female parts. I also have pictures of a lot of the older non-molded male and female plastic shells. When you are back from your tour of the Western Hemisphere I can send you the information and pictures. Gee, those pictures of the 0.110" Wedgelock male/female look familiar.

The easiest way, as was mentioned, is to find a truck with the needed equipment. I will warn you, the power window and door locks harness runs across the firewall inside, just below the windshield. Removing the top pad of the dash will allow access to this area. When I initially added those items to Darth, I pulled the harness and one door from a 1990 F250 XLT Lariat and the connectors plugged right in to the 1986 fuse box. Based on this, I would expect you can use any 1980-1991 for those features. If you are just looking for the taps, just look in junkyards for the connectors. What I have found is some of the taps that are for a particular option that has a dedicated feed (nothing else on the fuse or circuit breaker) the tap is usually inserted from the rear and actually becomes the protected end connector for the fuse or circuit breaker. Motorcraft may still list some of these in their pigtail catalog in the single connection portion.

Jim, if that is a "normal" Holley, not the 4180 emission style, the mixture screws should be on the side of the primary metering block. He may still need the tool to reach them with the air cleaner installed though.

The designations on the regulator plug are A - Alternator, that is the actual voltage sense wire, S - Stator which was used on some applications, I - Indicator (idiot light) this "tickles" the alternator to start it charging. I would suspect when you made the temporary repair you started it seeing the correct charging voltage. The big fault with the 2G is it's output plug developing high resistance due to age, corrosion and even vibration, this starts a vicious cycle where the alternator is working harder to reach it's design output. On the pre 1987 trucks with the 2G, the genius who designed the wiring should have been shot. The alternator voltage sense point is at the junction of Fuse Link J and the BK/O shunt for the ammeter, which in theory is battery voltage, but for some reason results in the alternator seeing lower that actual voltage. The later systems with the 3G are much better, but the ammeter shunt does limit the total usable output.

I have an entire kit of strange pliers I bought years ago, label on the case they are in has come off, I don't think they were Harbor Freight. I will try to get a picture of them. There is a pair specifically for separating the hose from the fitting too.

I tried your idea, and found the culprit. It turned out to be a loose clamp on one of the heater hoses. I tightened it back up, and the leak has stopped. Thanks for the advice! I started salvaging the flat spring clamps in junkyards, they may be a royal PITA to R&R, but they don't loosen with the heating and cooling cycles.

OEM Ford ones when EGR first came out were aluminum, the acid from the exhaust gasses would corrode right through them. Ford switched to cast iron and sold them as service replacements. This was in the 70s.

Damn, Dee Zee is the company that made the ones on Darth. Problem is, by the time they needed repairing (brackets replaced) those were completely discontinued, and no one makes Dually bed side running boards anymore.

There is a short shaft version that I believe was on the T-birds.

Gary, Jim, the water pump went through several changes, one was due to the addition of the "grenade" cooler the other was to correct a problem with the EFI engines caused by the polygroove belt system, shearing the shaft off. 1985-1989 (1985 was the oldest I checked) took an E5TZ-C pump. 1990-1992 F1TZ-A, 1993 (probably a mid 1992 change) F2TZ-A, 1994-1997 F4TZ-B. Further information: Hub height through 1991 5.570", 1992-97 5.620" (I assume for the thicker pulley) Bolt circle on the later pumps is 2.125" FWIW, my 1986 spec fan clutch fits either pump, but the older pump has a smaller shaft OD and really should have a sleeve in the fan clutch hub. Pulley for later pump is: F2UA-CA stamped on pulley front face. Lower hose inlet fitting: 1985-1989 is 2" OD, 1990-1997 is 1.79" in order to use a later pump on an earlier engine or to eliminate the grenade, I have seen people use a 351 lower hose. I will be using the older hose and a bushing from NAPA, number 902, 2" ID to 1 3/4" ID which seems to fit well. I will probably glue the bushing less it's original flange to the inside of the lower hose.

Here's my new ones installed on Darth's new engine: One I took for you when you were looking for the dimensions on the 460. As you can see, curved portion goes up as you have them.

Not for a 460 but then maybe they don't think there is enough of a market for the pre-79 429/460 flywheel.

Gee, it looks like it's drilled for all possible clutches used on a 460, and it it is made in a 0 balance and unbalanced version, probably a 429 CJ and SCJ too.

I have had excellent luck with AutoZone Duralast lifetime, they do eventually go bad, but for the time it takes to change one of these, I'll let them keep giving me new ones.

Watching football will lower your mental capacity.

Don't know, but the replacement pivot was a lot beefier and required a new fork.