85lebaront2

Ok, then Darth was the top line model in 1986, dash center had XL on it and the fender badges had XL undher the F350.

Do I dare go in to my collection of lawn and garden tractors....

Ok, but it is rather lengthy, so I will have to do it another day. FWIW, Bull Island is an old name for Poquoson, there is also a Cow Island they are on the west side of Chesapeake Bay East of Hampton VA. Cow Island: https://www.google.com/maps/@37.1577224,-76.3582086,16z?hl=en Poquoson: https://www.google.com/maps/@37.1293364,-76.3802314,14.17z?hl=en Suffice it to say it involved my Shelby and several various Chevy and Mopar performance cars. My best friend, John Gleason was driving it.

Let's go back to the 70s, in 1975 Catalytic converters became pretty much mandatory for cars and light trucks, there were some exceptions. my daughter owned one, a 1975 Pinto Pony MPG. Ford used some old hot rodder's tricks, bigger carb, low restriction exhaust and got it 49 state certified with non catalytic converter. Pickup trucks had a weight break that put 1/2 ton and smaller in the same emission class as cars, the manufacturers decided to introduce a truck between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton. Ford had the F150, GM the "heavy half" Dodge the D150. Ford simply put roller bearings in the 9" rear wheel bearings, F250 I-beams on the 2WD models and used a heavier frame, Dodge was similar, essentially downrated 3/4 ton models, GM put heavier springs on the C10 and 1500 to increase the capacity. According my trailer guy, Ford did it right, Dodge close and (he is a GM guy) GM took the cheap way. On my 1977, the only thing about it that should have been heavier where the brakes.

Cory, reportedly from a 1986 F150 XLT Lariat with 302 [5.0?]. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-A-C-COMPRESSOR-PULLEY-CLUTCH-A-C-IDLER-TENSIONER-Supporting-Brackets/153374656479?hash=item23b5d787df:g:maUAAOSwxndcTziJ That right there is the biggest item you need. Lines can be bought aftermarket, the system will convert (done properly) to R134a, but if you can score a later compressor (FS-10 instead of FS-6) it will cool better. The 1994-1996/7 AC casing will fit the 1986 firewall with no modification. I would also recommend a later inside duct for the heater core and blend door, the later blend door actually seals the heater core off in max AC. The 1994-1996/7 condenser mounts differently from the 1986, but is adaptable. If it were me, (a) having done Darth and (b) having to adapt the entire system, I would definitely update to the factory R134a system, just grab an entire Serpentine setup for a 302 and use the newer, improved system.

Gary, a dose of "snake oil" provided by a Texas chicken farmer made the Mustang into a formidable sports car, SCCA B-Production, same as the Corvettes.

The standard Mustang "tub" was an extended Falcon piece allowing the engine to sit back further. It had two skinny stamped sheet metal tower to firewall braces to stiffen the towers against flexing. The big heavy piece Shelby used was called an "export brace" and was for European models (sold in Germany as a T5). The cross brace was called a "Monte Carlo" bar and was from the successful Mercury Comet Monte Carlo rally cars. The GT350 was essentially a homologated SCCA race car built for the street, hence the front suspension reinforcements. The oil pan was a big cast aluminum one with trap door baffles to keep oil around the pickup and held 7 1/2 quarts. Here is a reproduction: I had an external oil cooler and a filter adapter similar to the big block one on mine so I needed 9 quarts for an oil change. FWIW, I see it still has the Holley high volume mechanical pump I installed (I did a lot of field testing for Holley, as soon as a new item for a Ford Windsor family was ready, the Holley rep would bring me one to try and keep), I had a Carter performance electric pump in the rear next to the tank to push fuel to the Holley pump, which saved having to run a 3/8" fuel line. It was a vane type, so when not running the Holley could pull through it, a toggle switch under the dash controlled it. Sometime I will have to post what my best friend and I refer to as the "Bull Island Incident".

Interesting! I haven't investigated it yet, but there's a fuse holder integrated into it and something said on that label 'bout a non-repairable fuse. I wonder if that was from a recall. But I plan to use the stock Bullnose cruise system, so probably won't use that anyway. The 1993-97 switch was only hot with the ignition on, and it was on the top of the MC not below like the 1997 F150 and the 1998 F250/350. Here is mine:

I / shop had a 68 fast back with the Hi Po 289 / 271hp and 4sp. We had to install a new exh. and went with the factory duels that had the "H" head pipe but did not run the resonators and a lot of people liked the way it sounded. With duel piston calipers and that light 289 the car handled really good as I chased down a Fire Bird one night Steve McQ style Things we did when we were young and stupid Dave ---- I had a 1966 GT350, 289 Cobra (306 hp) engine I installed .030 over TRW Powerforged pistons after finding a couple of cracked skirts. Since I owned a carburetor shop, after finding a Ford 1966 Trans-Am intake that took Holley rather than Carter 4 barrels, I built a pair of 465 cfm ones, one was a service carb that was 465 cfm, the other an R-1848, also 465 cfm. I installed a manual choke on the service carb and none on the R-1848. I used a pair of the secondary diaphragm covers for a 427 dual Holley system, found throttle linkage and a fuel rail. At roughly 3500 rpm it came on the cam, and all 8 barrels would open pretty rapidly, redlined at 7500, shifted at 7000. 3.89:1 9" rear with a Detroit Locker, 10X2.5" rear drums with Lakewood Velvetouch metallic linings, 4 piston front calipers. Car had a power steering box with a special Pittman arm and idler for 2.5 turns lock to lock. Car weighed roughly 2800 lbs. Only real issue, at around 137 mph (6750 rpm), the front end would get light due to lift.

You might look at an E-series, they had a long filler that extended to the front for easy access. It may require an E-series left valve cover. The 460s had a short (2-3") extension in 1986, maybe other years in the pickups, one end went in the valve cover and the cap went on the top.

You are right as my street car with auto uses a TF999 with the AMC bell housing. Now if you were talking of my drag car with AMC motor and using vacuum modulator you have to look at early Jeeps as they used a TH400 with the AMC bell housing. Some also used an adaptor and the BOP bell IIRC. Now being it came from a Jeep it had a 4x4 out put shaft that had to be changed to a 4x2 out put shaft and that could be from any GM TH400 auto. When dealing with AMC and making them live and go fast you have to know all the ins & outs Dave ---- Do some reading on AMC autos pre-torqueflite, they used Borg-Warner model 35s on the sixes and (I was in error) model 12s (big cast iron box) on the V8s. The model 12 is very similar to a Ford FMX and was also used by IHC in the Scout, pickups and Travelalls. Some of them had a solenoid downshift system, but it was built into the modulator.

Angelo, if that flat cam lobe is an exhaust valve, it will cause all kinds of back firing and popping, ask anyone about the "rubber camshafts" in Chevy small blocks in the 70s and 80s. They would idle fine, sometimes rev nicely in Neutral, but under any load, pop, pop, pop through the intake.

Thing is he is above the accel pump travel at the RPM he is running when this happens, foot to floor and only backs off a little to get it to shift into high. If racing go for a Holley carb and shelf that Eldy. I believe that is the only good place for a Eldy carb and even more so when racing because of the fuel PSI issues. I run Holley's on my cars I have dragged raced, 2300 v2 on a stock AMC 304 and v4's from HPDP 650 to 750's on a built AMC 360. I also run a full MSD set up on the 360 as it is my drag only car. I think the governor is what the issue could be. I run a full manual reverse shift pattern TH400 on the drag car after burning up a new trany with just 2 1/4 mile runs. Not enough vacuum from motor (big cam) to shift. It also has a custom 3000 stall converter now. Now the 304 car is a street car, TF999 (HD TF904 but less than a TF727), and I would also have to back off the throttle to get it to shift into high but with the rear gear the car had the times or speed did not change thru the lights in 2nd or 3rd gear at just under 90 MPH, 2.89 rear gear. Car did have a shift kit and would shift normal til you got on the gas and would chirp the tires going into 2nd gear. This car only used a down shift rod no vacuum so I adjusted it to be the best it could be both on the street and at the track. I was building the track car and did not want to start making a lot of changes. I would find a transmission shop that does race tranys and run it by them on the shifting to see what they have to say. I am sure once the shifting is tanking care of the miss / back fire will not happen. If it does then fix that issue. As they say "Only fix 1 issue at a time" because if you try fixing all at the same time and now you have other issues what did you "fix" before that caused this new issue? Good luck and keep us posted on the fixes. Dave ---- Dave, FWIW, Torqueflites use a throttle rod or cable, no vacuum modulators ever on Chrysler transmissions. The BW35 and BW6 used in AMC products some had vacuum modulators, most used a throttle push cable. Ford went to vacuum modulators around 1960 from a throttle rod, the rod was kept for strictly WOT downshift purposes (you should see what the 430 Lincolns used, the throttle relay bell crank was on a spring loaded bracket, that depressed at WOT and operated the downshift rod).

Angelo, modulator settings do not effect WOT shifts, they are controlled by the governor pushing against line pressure on a different land on the 2-3 shift valve, 1-2 is still being controlled by the throttle boost valve according to the diagram. Basically, the valve body is a hydraulic computer, weighing engine load (modulator and throttle boost pressure) against road speed (governor pressure) to determine when to shift, the downshift valve applies line pressure to a different part of the shift valve train to either force a downshift or hold a gear longer.

Tail shaft has to come off, the governor is bolted to a counterweight on the output shaft. The valve itself has a specific weight, but the initial pressure is from a heavier weight with a spring. You might try a small washer inside the valve where the spring goes to add some weight. If this brings your WOT shift points down where you want them, then you can tweak the part throttle with the modulator. Here are a couple of pictures for you:

That's what I suggested, but he didn't like that.

Sorry forgot that critical piece of information. 9" so that was why I measured there.

A thought for you, the compressor is going to be a permanent install in one side of the tool box correct? How about a small vent grille in the bottom and a large computer fan to exhaust air next to it, they are 12V and could be wired with the inverter input. Also, what about just having a bulkhead style air line connector through the toolbox wall some where so the hose can be connected without needing to open anything.

Yes, it is exactly the same, even to the bolt locations. I measured at the top of my CD changer, there is possibly a little over 6" as the corner trim is in the way and I do not have an 8" tall dwarf to slide back behind the seat to measure for me.

Gary, I can measure the back seat to cab back in Darth as it is the same complete to the seat adjuster as a standard cab. What do you need minimum with the seat all the way back? Ask and ye shall receive, 9" up (easy reference, that's the height of my CD changer) there is exactly 6" with the seat all the way back (that's where mine stays). Crew cab back wall is a standard cab back wall and the original front and rear seats are identical in a crew cab.

Yes, before 84 it was assumed that if you had a manual transmission you were bright enough to not start it in gear, but reverse lock for steering columns meant your car was in reverse when you turned the key on so the government decided that in order to fix a problem they created, require a safety switch on manual transmissions on the clutch instead of simply adding an interrupt switch like an automatic transmission.

Angelo, I ran into the same thing with my 1977 F150, I built the 390 FE engine from a Camper Special short block, .030 over stock pistons but used a set of heads from a 1965 300 hp engine along with the intake. I had the actual correct Holley and Motorcraft DS-I distributor. I used my existing DS-II box and the DS-II cap, rotor and wires. The C6 I traded a Mercedes-Benz transmission overhaul at a AAMCO center a friend owned for. He built it using a car governor. First time I really ran it up, it floated the valves on the 390, backfired in both directions, fortunately being at WOT, no power valve damage, I actually think that carb was pretty immune to damage due to the interesting power enrichment system. Bottom line, the car governor was probably for a 390 GT or 428 CJ as it was not providing enough pressure to override the downshift pressure (line pressure applied to the throttle end of the shift valves). The solution was to exchange the governor for a low performance or truck one, never had another problem. Unfortunately I did not have a tach in that truck. BTW, 16-17 mpg highway running unloaded and was a damn hot rod, real fun to mess with people.

Looks pretty good, according to that Darth will go 179 MPH in 4th @ 5000 rpm.

As a start a link to the AMC site I am a member of and when I started project back in 2009 http://theamcforum.com/forum/my-70-javelin-street-car-restore_topic11725.html And because I lost my domain name the picture links are broken but here is a link to my Javelin pictures http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/70-Javelin-Mark-Donohue?page=1 When I first started the truck and was talking of the firewall swap and was catching slack from some others were on my side as they knew what I could do as they were members on the AMC site also. Frame rot Just a tease of what I did to the frame, check out the pictures and I will start a thread. Dave ---- Dave, since AMC is now part of FCA, I guess that makes our cars cousins. My best friend used to race a Javelin in SCCA, he may still have some parts left, unfortunately he had a fire that destroyed his barn a number of years ago (and my late father's Craftsman Joiner) and he lost a lot of the spares he still had even though he had sold the car. As near as we could determine, his car was one of the two AMC factory team cars, the Traco Engineering car rather than the Penske car.

Jim, on the later trucks, the cables run along the oil pan rail just above the transmission cooler lines on automatics. You should remember, you pulled me the set I have on Darth from the 1995 F450. The front end of the cables are supported by a clamp attached to the ground stud on the side of the block. I still have a nice ground cable there, running to the frame from replacing a bad cable years ago.